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That’s the one I got.  Lots of options and ideas come to mind.  The one long electrode they are saying is for heating bearings and the long u-shaped one is meant to be field bent around anything the standard round coils can’t quite conform nicely to.  

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Guest Ray Davis
2 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Definitely the right price range ($40-$55) but limited coil sizes, exposed antenna and looks difficult to use.  I put this one on my Amazon wish list -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5HDGCP5/

A *LOT* more $$ but can handle different size bolts . . . plus (I'm thinking) the spiral element can heat flat surfaces (for another application). 

- bob

Oh yeah, Brad's Hot Shot is a practical tool, the one I showed you is really sort of a tinkers toy although it will heat.  It's 1000 watts,  I don't know what all that'll heat but I imagine most bolts & nuts.

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  • Performance Tool Stud Extractor  Thumbnail 360 Image
     
 
Performance Tool

Performance Tool Stud Extractor - W83203

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W83203
 
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3.9 out of 5 stars. Read reviews for average rating value is 3.9 of 5. Read 39 Reviews Same page link.
 
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Back in 99, I bought a new Dynasty. Had it for eight years and it broke exhaust manifold bolts on several occasions. The last time I did the broken bolt routine, I had to get a new manifold, as the thing shrunk. All the holes but one would line up.  Probably it was made on the short end of the tolerances causing stress on the bolts with heat cycles. I replaced bolts so many times, I kept spares onboard. 

Fortunately, these were AZ bolts. That is, no induction heater required. But the bolts broke off flush or below grade. I found a super extractor to remove the bolts. Remember these bolts weren’t all rusted up. But before I had the below extractor, I would center punch the bolt, drill,  and use an easy out.

Once I found the extractor, removal was easy. It’s a drill and an extractor in one.  Center punch, drill right handed, then put the drill in reverse and pull the trigger  The tapered threaded collet is driven into the hole and out comes the bolt. It never failed me on my ISC bolts.

Might not work on a long rusted bolts. Dunno. Welding a nut on the above grade bolt would be a double whammy. The heat, as stated above, would help tremendously and the welded nut would give a lot of leverage.

It does sound like you have a good handle on the situation. I hope you don’t have a fight on your hands. Good luck with this project.

 

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Guest Ray Davis
6 hours ago, Happycarz said:

Fortunately, these were AZ bolts.

Ya gotta love Az bolts but I'd really prefer to work on them in Colo.      This time of year.   LOL

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This manifold I tell ya. Look at how rusted in these bolts are.  😂. I laugh but I’m actually crying.  This is very painstakingly taking way longer than I was hoping.  Been working away freeing the studs up with various shop items - screwdrivers, needle de-scaler, dental picks etc.  I’ve now got a wedge hammered in between the head and the manifold, tap away on it once and while as I’m trying to free the manifold.  What a pain. Pretty sure I’m just gonna cut the thing into pieces and work away section at a time.  Crazy. 
I have also decided, since I’m this deep, I’m gonna replace the turbo and the EGR valve among some other much needed replacements.  Wife isn’t happy, but I think it’s best.

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Edited by BradHend
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Wow is that rusty. Have you thought about pulling and swapping rhe whole motor? Complete motors are going for about 2k here. 

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@Agpopp I can’t say that option hasn’t crossed my mind, and I for sure have not seen them listed anywhere near the price range you’re talking.  Be interested to see them.
It may not look the best, but the engine does run quite nice otherwise, hopefully some good TLC and needed replacements will buy me enough time with it.   

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50 minutes ago, BradHend said:

@Agpopp I can’t say that option hasn’t crossed my mind, and I for sure have not seen them listed anywhere near the price range you’re talking.  Be interested to see them.
It may not look the best, but the engine does run quite nice otherwise, hopefully some good TLC and needed replacements will buy me enough time with it.   

You're doing a great job for how hard they are to get at, the guys with side rads have it too easy!

I think someone parked mine at the end of a driveway with the duals on pavement and the rear overhang on grass for at least some portion of its life. But it's minor compared to that! 

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Sorry I don't know how much room you have, but one of the tricks is to SHOCK around the bolt with a heavy duty punch/hammer. If need be cut the punch down, soak the stud with KROIL lubricant.  Then try a LEFT HAND drill bit, slowly drilling it,  heat and shock  works a lot of times and when I used to turn wrenches, more times then not the left hand bit worked best.  Many like already listed above work as well, but the left hand bit can go deep and you never know when its going to grab.  Just go slow, you are not trying to dill it out you're trying to get it to grab.  I replace those bolts with new most of time with a very small amount of oil, the oil won't change the torque value.  Good luck, that jobs sucks!!!

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The manifold finally gave up its fight today. Elated would be an understatement.  
Those bolts were rusted to the manifold pretty bad.  Ended up drilling pilot holes in most of the ears and then an air chisel to open them up. I wasn’t able to get the EGR or the turbo apart so I ended up cutting it into three pieces once it was removed from the head.  What a process.  Had to take a lot of stuff out just for the access.  Two more bolts broke off flush with the head in the process.  
I had made a little slide hammer tool out of some old elevator belts and wedge shackles.  Worked out pretty good. 
Pardon the obscenity in the picture, it deserved it. 
Re-Man turbo, reman EGR and all the other stuff I broke in the process and other parts will be getting ordered hopefully this week.  Got some bolts to remove from the head now, but at least I can get to them.  

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Edited by BradHend
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@Gweedo I don’t think I have the skill to weld a bolt to it. I may weld a washer with a Centre hole a touch smaller than the bolt and then weld a nut to that.  See what happens.  Otherwise left hand drill bits and extractors it is. 
@lotosrggp1 It’s gonna get real interesting.😐

Edited by BradHend
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That's the way to do it. Weld the washer on then weld the nut thru the hole. The heat expansion will help break the bond.

After the bolt is out I'd carefully run a tap to clean out the threads, blow the holes out with air, and use antiseize on the threads when you do the install. Reduce the torque values by 25% for lubricated fasteners. 

torque_specifications.pdf

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Little update for those following along - got all of the broken studs out that were proud of the head by welding a nut to the stud.  Stuck a fender washer in behind it all to keep the machined part clean as you can see in the picture I took before I yanked it out.  Gotta say it worked good. I gotta say that is quite a satisfying feeling when the nut starts spinning with the stud still attached🥲.  3 more to extract that are flush with the head and they are all out.   What a pain. 

I also made a jig up to assist with drilling out the original one that broke and started this whole issue. I had attempted to extract it off the get go with everything in place with zero luck.  Manifold was so badly warped that the manifold ear was half covering the bolt,  broke an extractor bit in there in the process as I was desperate at the time and stuck.  Going to the local tool shop on Monday to get a few carbide drill bits and hopefully knock it loose so I can proceed to finally get it out.  

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Edited by BradHend
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  • 2 weeks later...

As I’ve been finding time, I’ve slowly made progress on the Cayman.  
I can finally report that the manifold bolts are now all out, threads have been chased and helicoiled if needed.  Several bolts were stripped on extraction and I wasn’t about to trust just chasing the threads.  I had a new bolt and it felt sloppy in the chased hole.
The whole process of drilling into the head is nerve racking to me, but when it’s all said and done I guess it wasn’t so bad.  Just have to be careful, plan as best you can, and take your sweet time.  
Replacement parts are also starting to arrive.  My final part order will be going in this weekend.  So far I’ve received the Reman Turbo, Reman EGR valve and the ridiculously expensive pipe that connects the EGR valve to exhaust has cooler.  Mostly just hardware and all new line-sets to get.  
Upper coolant tube is being made right now by my buddy, 150 bucks and all stainless.  
The Cayman might yet see some late summer travels!!

Forgot to mention that I also purchased RemFlex gaskets for the exhaust manifold and manifold to turbo connection, arriving Monday.  
Import fees suck!  😢

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Edited by BradHend
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  • 2 months later...

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