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Doing some much needed maintenance and repairs on the coach and noticed the CAC was quite dirty while trying to break my manifold bolts off.  Since it was raining and I’m waiting for a fancy magnetic induction heater to arrive I decided to change tasks and remove the CAC to clean it up.  
Check out how dirty it was. 🫢. Oddly the engine radiator is incredibly clean by comparison, I can see light throughout the entire thing and there is none of this thick buildup on it.  I tried the simple green method several times with to no avail with in place, should be able to clean it better and easier now. 
 

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Edited by BradHend
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  • BradHend changed the title to Dirty CAC

Look up how to or take it to a Diesel Truck shop and have it tested for leaks being you have it out. If it’s Original to the coach which it probably is there’s a chance it may be leaking some. My understanding is some is acceptable, how much I don’t know. Mine is out now and needs replacing I was told because it is leaking. It was very clean.

Edited by tmw188
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@tmw188 I was concerned of that as well. I made up a simple end cap for the one side out of an old rubber tire inner-tube and a band clamp.  Other end same idea just added in a quick connect for air.  Set my regulator and pressurized it to 35PSI.  May not be the legit way, but that’s basically all a shop is gonna do. Held pressure for 10 minutes so that’s a pass in my books.  
Gave it a good cleaning otherwise and it can fully breathe again. Light can be seen through all the fins now. 


 

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How did you devise a air chuck that didn’t leak? I could see something like this working for closing it off. I have mine off waiting to be replaced but I’m thinking about verifying how bad it is. I can probably come up with something.  

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Edited by tmw188
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@cbr046 Will do for sure.  The bolt heads are now rounded and I have broken (2) 1/2” drive extractor sockets.  The big Milwaukee would just sit there doing its thing.  Broke out the breaker bar that I guess the impact rated extractors weren’t meant for.  Things are in there good and I’m hesitant/not confident enough to get an acetylene torch up there to cut the heads off and work the manifold off the remaining studs.  Been a nightmare to be honest.  Gonna cost me quite a bit more than I expected, but things happen.  

@tmw188 Just crudely make an end cap with the tube and band clamp it for the one end, the other same idea but attach a small length of pipe to a quick connect fitting, get a piece of inner-tube that’s big enough to accept the air pipe and still act as an end cap. Just band clamp it all together.  It’s only 30lbs.   I’ll post a pic when I get back home. 

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Little update, I realize it got off topic a bit, but people were asking and I’m in a really good mood right now. 😄
So I received my induction heater there yesterday and managed to get in the bad books with my wife about 15 minutes after receiving it.  I had to try it out so I for whatever reason grabbed a butter knife to try it out.  Had the thick handle RED HOT in about 7 seconds.  Unbelievable.  Wife didn’t approve as the knife is discolored now.  
Anyways, fast forward to today, while I’m waiting for my new socket extractor set to arrive I moved on to some other bolts that hadn’t really been attempted yet.  Big Milwaukee impact wouldn’t break it, i gave it all I was comfortable giving with a breaker bar and still nothing.  heated the mounting spacer up bright cherry red with the tool, but my socket and ratchet on it and it turned out immediately.  I’m in shock a little right now to be honest.  I hope this works on all the others as well. I’ll only need to drill 2 out if that’s the case.  The whole time it was heating and a bit after all I could hear was popping/clicking noises, which I assume would be the rust bond breaking.  Just an awesome tool so far.  
 

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Definitely works best on nuts for obvious reasons, but It has got me 2 bolts out cleanly. 
I have 3 bolts left to get out, called it a day early in the afternoon as I had to cut the grass and take my folks out for supper.  Tally so far is 3 cleanly removed, 2 snapped flush with the head and 4 broken off at the bolt head.  Gotta take the alternator and some lines off to get to the last three.  Save that for the weekend I suppose.  Getting shipped out of town for the week. 👎

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Bolts are all out/broken.  Now to get the manifold/turbo/EGR out.  Since I now have this fancy tool that I credit to getting 4 bolts cleanly removed, I may be be able to unfreeze the 4 nuts at the turbo to manifold flange and not have to remove it all in one piece.  
A picture speaks a thousand words. That includes curse words:

 

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Guest Ray Davis

Hey Brad,  Great thread,  thanks for letting us tag along.   I'm looking at your Hot Shot, it's a very interesting tool.  I've had a few instances where I could have used one.  I'm guessing it is essentially a step-down transformer magnetizing the target bolt or nut, much like an induction cooktop.  Do you have any idea what the volts & amps are on the output?  Is it just a copper wire coil with High temp insulation?   

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@Ray Davis According to the manual  it’s actually a step up transformer - high voltage, low current - which is then converted to a high frequency alternating magnetic field.  
I’m quite happy with it and I think it will come in quite handy. 
The element is just a coil basically, but it isn’t just copper in it as they are much too stiff to

be just copper. 

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Tell me about it, @Ivan K.  
I’m *Hoping* once I actually free the manifold from the head, the bolts won’t be that bad to get out.  All of them except 1 at least is left with a 1” or so long stud sticking out of the head, hoping to grab onto them with some good vice grips and carefully wiggle ‘em out. If that don’t work I’ll grind them flat and use the left handed drill bit with a matching extractor if needed.  
I’ll keep posting progress if anyone cares. 

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If you can weld , I would put a washer and a nut on the remnants of the bolt. The heat might help some to get them unscrewed now that they are short and can't flex. Still painful...

Figured I'd add few words. I have removed a ton of broken bolts in my life. Now that the tension is removed from the thread, soaking it in penetrating oil (the above mentioned ATF mix in a squeeze bottle really works), there are special extractor pliers with hardened teeth pointed in one direction to get a grip. However, that is not guaranteed on a hardened bolt. I only use drill extractors if the broken bolt is below the surface and is not sticking out at all. Broken drill extractor is a disaster. There are also extractors that cut into the bolt from its outside. Welding a nut is the last and best option if all else fails. I wish I could attach pictures of the tools I mentioned but we are far from home. Good luck, you'll get it done one way or an other. And if you had enough thread to put two nuts on, lock them up, that would be a game changer. 

Edited by Ivan K
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Guest Ray Davis
6 hours ago, BradHend said:

@Ray Davis According to the manual  it’s actually a step up transformer - high voltage, low current - which is then converted to a high frequency alternating magnetic field.  
I’m quite happy with it and I think it will come in quite handy. 
The element is just a coil basically, but it isn’t just copper in it as they are much too stiff to

be just copper. 

Thanks, Brad,  Curious minds like to know how things work.

 

5 hours ago, Ivan K said:

If you can weld , I would put a washer and a nut on the remnants of the bolt. The heat might help some to get them unscrewed now that they are short and can't flex. Still painful...

Ya gotta have a welder but without a doubt welding a nut onto the stud is the best way.   Maybe get someone to bring their welder over.

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Good luck Brad, and sweet tool purchase! I too have the egr manifold as it turns out, and although mine is in good shape, I wonder if it can be completed eliminated and the computer bypassed somehow.  Maybe save you some future headache. 

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@Agpopp If you find a way to properly delete that EGR that a bunch of people  say I don’t have, please let me know.  😉

Edited by BradHend
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I’ve had a couple diesel shops straight up tell me there was never an EGR option on a 2005 5.9 Cummins. Never had it.  Like clearly distraught about it and arguing with me.   Im just like I don’t know what to tell ya man, it’s got it.  🤷‍♂️.
This of course was in the stage of trying to delete it altogether and see what was available aftermarket.  Never got anywhere with a legit delete, so unfortunately OEM it is. @AgpoppI don’t know if I had anything to with it since I had to pay and request an emergency part order from Cummins, but the 3955199 manifold (the larger, hard to find piece) is back in stock online at a reasonable price.   Might not hurt to have one on standby so you don’t have to deal with the BS I did.  

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20 hours ago, Ivan K said:

If you can weld , I would put a washer and a nut on the remnants of the bolt. The heat might help some to get them unscrewed now that they are short and can't flex. Still painful...

Figured I'd add few words. I have removed a ton of broken bolts in my life. Now that the tension is removed from the thread, soaking it in penetrating oil (the above mentioned ATF mix in a squeeze bottle really works), there are special extractor pliers with hardened teeth pointed in one direction to get a grip. However, that is not guaranteed on a hardened bolt. I only use drill extractors if the broken bolt is below the surface and is not sticking out at all. Broken drill extractor is a disaster. There are also extractors that cut into the bolt from its outside. Welding a nut is the last and best option if all else fails. I wish I could attach pictures of the tools I mentioned but we are far from home. Good luck, you'll get it done one way or an other. And if you had enough thread to put two nuts on, lock them up, that would be a game changer. 

Welding works but be sure to protect your computer, alternator,  etc.

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On 6/25/2023 at 12:12 PM, BradHend said:

So I received my induction heater  . . . .
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On 7/1/2023 at 11:35 AM, Ray Davis said:

I'm looking at your Hot Shot, it's a very interesting tool. 

It's on my wish list!

- bob

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Guest Ray Davis

Definitely the right price range ($40-$55) but limited coil sizes, exposed antenna and looks difficult to use.  I put this one on my Amazon wish list -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5HDGCP5/

A *LOT* more $$ but can handle different size bolts . . . plus (I'm thinking) the spiral element can heat flat surfaces (for another application). 

- bob

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