Battery Disconnect Switch

[powersltc]

2004 Monaco Executive:  Ron P.

I'm checking to see if anyone have a part number and source for a battery disconnect switch. 

 

I try to switch off chassis batteries, but I have power in both the on and off position. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

[jacwjames]

My suggestion would be to just remove the disconnect and bolt both leads together.  The get information off the old one and do a general search. 

I'm sure someone will chime and recommend a certain brand.  

Mine was a Guest 2102-3-B, I do carry one as a spare.

 

 

[powersltc]

4 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

My suggestion would be to just remove the disconnect and bolt both leads together.  The get information off the old one and do a general search. 

I'm sure someone will chime and recommend a certain brand.  

Mine was a Guest 2102-3-B, I do carry one as a spare.

 

 

Thanks.   Much Appreciated 

[jacwjames]

The disconnects do have an amperage rating depending on draw.

I have a 2000 watt inverter, I'm sure your coach has a larger (and possibly multiple) inverter.  So make sure you get one to handle the amperage. 

Good luck

[AndyinMelbourne]

I would use this.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Battery-Switch/dp/B000MMC914/ref=rp_sccl_2/145-5074500-3640802?pd_rd_w=GFSrf&content-id=amzn1.sym.208e539a-c534-423e-b534-e4dcccf63aa5&pf_rd_p=208e539a-c534-423e-b534-e4dcccf63aa5&pf_rd_r=QT6GBP5Z6S0ZRKE3097N&pd_rd_wg=bnCP0&pd_rd_r=6283a390-1f44-438d-91aa-c24fe4acb3b5&pd_rd_i=B000MMC914&psc=1

 

[MyronTruex]

Post a few pictures and you can also use google image to help find one.

[Tom Cherry]

This has been posted before.  Some are aware….others maybe not.  Typically a Blue Seas 300/350 A switch will be fine.  The circuits that you are using do not go that high.  You also have to understand or know how your inverter is connected.  There are TWO methods.  The original Monaco was connecting the inverter on the switched side.  Thus, a 2000 watt inverter would be OK with a 300/350 A switch as the charging voltage is a little over 100 A.  At 2000 watts & 12.5 VDC, that is 160 A.  

OK…later (2006 Dynasty? & my 2009 Camelot), the inverter is connected directly to the battery.  So, turning OFF the House switch doesn’t kill the Inverter.  I have a round 300 (maybe 350) A fuse.  It is on the high current print or you can nose around and find it,  I carry a spare.  NAPA ain’t gonna have one.  The Dynasty (memory) is maybe 50 A higher.  BUT again, the main Disconnect switch doesn’t see that load.

OK…now to WHICH switch.  The link that was provided is great.  BUT, which circuit do you have?  If you have a Camelot, or lower….the ON/OFF is what you need.  BUT! If you have a Dynasty (maybe 2006 & UP), you PROBABLY need the dual circuit.  OK…what is a Dual Circuit.

Simple.  My switch only has two LARGE studs or terminals,  that means it just turns ON & OFF.  But, if you have a switch (like the 2006 Dynasties & UP), they are Dual Circuit.  There is a pair of smaller (#12 wire) terminals,  You have the dual circuit.  This smaller control circuit is what keeps the Big Boy Dual (Bi Directional) charging circuit working.  Some folks have just ordered the single….OPPS….my batteries are running down,  the fix….jumper the two control wires….but in reality, to stay with the design intent, you really should put back in the OEM switch with the dual or High and Low current contacts.

That’s it….

@powersltc

I don’t know about your OEM switch and it’s reliability.  There were some earlier brands of switches that repeatedly failed.  The Blue Seas is rugged and is the gold standard.  Look at your switch at your switch and get the name and model….should be on the front.  Obviously disconnect your batteries at the banks prior to looking.  If you have only two BIG terminals….and not an additional 2 smaller ones….the link will work. If you have the 2 sets, then the Dual circuit.  Look at the switch and see what the amps are.  If it is 400, then go to the Blue Seas site and get one that is rated higher.  They sell (memory) up to 600 A.

[powersltc]

12 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

This has been posted before.  Some are aware….others maybe not.  Typically a Blue Seas 300/350 A switch will be fine.  The circuits that you are using do not go that high.  You also have to understand or know how your inverter is connected.  There are TWO methods.  The original Monaco was connecting the inverter on the switched side.  Thus, a 2000 watt inverter would be OK with a 300/350 A switch as the charging voltage is a little over 100 A.  At 2000 watts & 12.5 VDC, that is 160 A.  

OK…later (2006 Dynasty? & my 2009 Camelot), the inverter is connected directly to the battery.  So, turning OFF the House switch doesn’t kill the Inverter.  I have a round 300 (maybe 350) A fuse.  It is on the high current print or you can nose around and find it,  I carry a spare.  NAPA ain’t gonna have one.  The Dynasty (memory) is maybe 50 A higher.  BUT again, the main Disconnect switch doesn’t see that load.

OK…now to WHICH switch.  The link that was provided is great.  BUT, which circuit do you have?  If you have a Camelot, or lower….the ON/OFF is what you need.  BUT! If you have a Dynasty (maybe 2006 & UP), you PROBABLY need the dual circuit.  OK…what is a Dual Circuit.

Simple.  My switch only has two LARGE studs or terminals,  that means it just turns ON & OFF.  But, if you have a switch (like the 2006 Dynasties & UP), they are Dual Circuit.  There is a pair of smaller (#12 wire) terminals,  You have the dual circuit.  This smaller control circuit is what keeps the Big Boy Dual (Bi Directional) charging circuit working.  Some folks have just ordered the single….OPPS….my batteries are running down,  the fix….jumper the two control wires….but in reality, to stay with the design intent, you really should put back in the OEM switch with the dual or High and Low current contacts.

That’s it….

@powersltc

I don’t know about your OEM switch and it’s reliability.  There were some earlier brands of switches that repeatedly failed.  The Blue Seas is rugged and is the gold standard.  Look at your switch at your switch and get the name and model….should be on the front.  Obviously disconnect your batteries at the banks prior to looking.  If you have only two BIG terminals….and not an additional 2 smaller ones….the link will work. If you have the 2 sets, then the Dual circuit.  Look at the switch and see what the amps are.  If it is 400, then go to the Blue Seas site and get one that is rated higher.  They sell (memory) up 

 

 

 

 

 

12 hours ago, jacwjames said:

My suggestion would be to just remove the disconnect and bolt both leads together.  The get information off the old one and do a general search. 

I'm sure someone will chime and recommend a certain brand.  

Mine was a Guest 2102-3-B, I do carry one as a spare.

 

 

Thanks.   Much Appreciated 

[Tom Cherry]

16 minutes ago, powersltc said:

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks.   Much Appreciated 

Check your prints.  I did a lot of googling.  No direct hits on replacement.  However, amazon has several, with good reviews, 300 A 12 - 24 volt switches.  Some are rated up to 48 volts.  All you need is one that is good for 12 Volts…. Many are stem mounted like yours. Jegs.com has one that looks promising.  Pull out the switch and measure the hole where it is mounted and shaft length and compare.  Maybe another owner will chime in.  
 

Otherwise, the simplest, assuming you have adequate cable slack would be to pop rivet on an aluminum (thin) plate to the bracket that is “longer” and mount the Blue Seas to it.  Check the Blue Seas or Cole Heresy catalogs and see if they have a stem mount style that will work.

Let us know what you come up with….

[MyronTruex]

Switches

Some modification might be misleading you to think the switch is bad.

Disconnecting one of the leads and re-checking would be advised. You might have a sneak path tricking your meter or an unknown modification.

In any case, that is a pretty standard switch on public safety equipment in earlier years. The connections shown are in desperate need of cleaning. 

You may find that switch on display at an automotive store. 

Edited July 15, 2023 by myrontruex

[Tom Cherry]

You have a COLE HERSEE.  I just helped out another member offline and called a former 2005 Exec owner with a good memory and knowledge.

There are TWO kinds of switches.  SPST = That one only has TWO LARGE STUDS.....it looks like yours.  The other is a DP (double pole) ST (single Throw) switch.  Your's does NOT look like that....

https://www.colehersee.com.au/product/battery-field-master/ This is the DPST version of it.  This switch WILL work....you just ignore the small terminals.  Simple as that....now small wires....no hook up....the main switch works the high current.

I went back to the ColeHersee webpage.  I could NOT find at SPST (assuming that you have no small wires attached....and I did not see them in the picture)....SO...if you order the above it will work....and be fine.

Hope this helps.  IF you find an aftermarket one on Amazon that works and fits....especially the SIZE of the studs....very important to get the hole diameter of the terminal matched to the stud diameter....then let us know...

@Frank McElroy the parts list only shows an M-750 for a switch.  The above is what was on the Execs and maybe more circa 2005.  The 2004 had the SINGLE or the NON Field contact switch.  The 2005 had (per the prints) the DPST version.... see the above link for the correct name and PN...

The correct PN for the Blue Seas that were used later on are

Dual Circuit - Two Large Studs and two small contacts....  6010 (Red) or the 6010200 (Black) 

Single Circuit - like on most Camelots and lower - Two Large Studs ONLY..... 6006 (Red) or 6005200 (Black).

Thanks.

Battery Cut Off switch 2005 Exec Nav.pdf