Entry Door Awning - Uh oh!

[malcoll]

So, attached is a picture of my latest frustration.  I was deploying the entry door awning and the lower attachment "detached" from the body.  How would anyone recommend fixing this?  Would you use JB Weld, or something else?  I don't know how easy to access from interior to better anchor the screws? 

Any wisdom anyone can share?⁰

[Gary 05 AMB DST]

Those talented RV assembly line members aren't. That arm is just screwed to the outside 1/4" laminated luan siding. Try a plastic toggle with the smallest hole. Remember that wall is only 1 1/4" thick. I shouldn't blame the workers, they were doing what they were told.

Gary 05 AMB DST

Edited July 18, 2023 by Gary 05 AMB DST
more information

[Ivylog]

I would try larger diameter screws… drill the 2 holes in the bracket larger. I would also fill the holes on the MH with epoxy and put on the bigger screws… don’t over tighten and let the epoxy cure.

[Tom Cherry]

18 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

I would try larger diameter screws… drill the 2 holes in the bracket larger. I would also fill the holes on the MH with epoxy and put on the bigger screws… don’t over tighten and let the epoxy cure.

many good suggestions.  As each of has an “idea”, here is mine.  I would fabricate a jack post or a simple stand (think an upright 2x4 screwed on to a saw horse) to support the arm and get it maybe 6” out so I could work on it.  Not into total removal of the awning.  Next, use a bent big paper clip and do some probing of the holes.  What is behind the skin and how thick and what is the material.  You might see wood fiber on the threads.  HOPEFULLY it IS wood. Then, my fix is to insert a hardwood dowel and glue in place.  You may want to go 1/8 or 3/16 larger so you have a good place to a pilot hole and reuse (hopefully) the original screws.

JB Clear weld will work.  My “go to” adhesive is Loctite PL.  You will have to drill a larger hole.  Then squirt in (why I prefer a tube of PL) a copious amount.  Then use a grinder and make a few winding (think wrapping a piece of rope) notches on the dowel to have a void where the PL is instead of just a “flat surface to surface contact.  This is an old assembly line trick when a “press fit” pin works loose or the hole was drilled oversized.  We used Loctite “red” as it would lock in the pin, but you could heat and drive/pull it out.  Skiving the OD was the trick.

Then, reassemble.  

OK…another option.  But a piece of 16 gauge or so bright SS.  Cut a rectangle maybe 2” x 4”…a little wider and but longer (vertically) than the bracket.  Use 3/16” SS Poprivets and pop rivet the bracket to the plate.  The pop rivets will go into the original holes.  Then drill two new attaching holes…one above and one below.  Get a #12 SS Hex Washer tapping screw…same length as the original.  Dry fit.  Then lather on a layer of Loctite PL or Chris Thogmartin’s 3M Marine adhesive.  Drive the screws….but hand tighten at the end.  Clean up the “glue” that oozes out.  It AIN’T going to peel off the wall.  Do the other side if that bothers you.

Just 2 ideas….

[Rick A]

How about clean out the holes (it’s rotten and damaged in there??) and then using a good grade all weather construction glue forced in under pressure,  using a good caulking gun to saturate the inside void. It’ll slowly drip down inside.  Left it dry (24 hour) maybe do this a second time to fill up voids. Dry for 24 hours.  Then drill holes appropriate sized holes and insert good quality wral  RAWL plugs and glue them in! Just another idea. 

Edited July 18, 2023 by Tom Cherry
wral was supposed to be RAWL - Typo

[malcoll]

Thanks all, many very good suggestions....I need to head to Home Depot!!!!

[Tom Cherry]

30 minutes ago, Rick A said:

How about clean out the holes (it’s rotten and damaged in there??) and then using a good grade all weather construction glue forced in under pressure,  using a good caulking gun to saturate the inside void. It’ll slowly drip down inside.  Left it dry (24 hour) maybe do this a second time to fill up voids. Dry for 24 hours.  Then drill holes appropriate sized holes and insert good quality wral  RAWL plugs and glue them in! Just another idea. 

Yes.  BUT the "gotta eventually TAKEE-APRATEE guy says that you NEVER glue in a screw.  You can use Loctite (any color) and then heat or use higher torque and get it out.  If it is permanent, then "POP RIVET EVERTHING, TOM", goes that route. I edited your post to RAWL plug which is what I think you meant.

We are on the same track except using a hardwood dowel lets you disassemble later one...

NOW, if I were going to use the RAWL plug, I would eventually drill out the hole so that the RAWL plug just barely seated and was not compressed. Then I would coat the final attaching screw with a light, THIN coat of Vasolene. Drive in the screw. Wipe off the excess and then put a coating of my adhesive on it....and then insert it so that I had total encapsulation of the RAWL plug.  Let it sit for maybe 30 minutes.  The Adhesive will have hardened.  Then UNSCREW the screw....then let it cure for 24 hours.  THEN assemble.  That's just me and if the RAWL plug ever let go....pop or drill it out.  Flush with a solvent and glue in a hardwood dowel.

Different strokes for different folks based on their personalities and how they do things and their experiences...

 

[Rick A]

Thanks, just multitasking and spelling!  I meant glue in the rawl plugs and yes Locktite or whatever on the screws. No guarantee provide! 😀😀

[Reka52]

Had the very same happen to me and this my fix. West marine epoxy and trowled in to the hole (after cleaning) and slightly enlarging used a threaded 1/4” thread insert and screwed it into the wet epoxy with the bolt screwed in to keep the threads clean let sit 24 hrs and remove bolt and reattach the awning using the bolt you just removed. I did both holes at the same time and 1 yr later still good. All pieces from ace hardware 

[Gary 05 AMB DST]

Every time I see this listing, Entry Door Awing- UH OH, I think of Joe Cocker, Lifes Been Good to Me, Uh Oh Here Comes A Flock of Wham Whams! The things we relate to other things.

Gary 05 AMB DST

[djlgnd]

Had same problem, i used metal butterfly drywall anchors and butyle tape holding solid and no water leakage into inner wall. just cut the bolts shorter to make sure you do not puncture inner wall

[malcoll]

So I used plastic butterfly anchors and JBWeld minute set....put the sleeves I to the existing holes and put the screws in and let it set 24 hours...now I have put silicone sealant around it and reinstalled the awning arm.  Now we wait and see if succeeds or fails.  I have a backup plan...just in case.

[Gweedo]

use this and you will never have an issue again  get it on Amazon

 

VIGRUE 150pcs #8-32#10-24 1/4"-20 5/16"-18 3/8"-16 Carbon Steel UNC Rivet Nuts Assortment

[dl_racing427]

12 hours ago, Gweedo said:

use this and you will never have an issue again  get it on Amazon

 

VIGRUE 150pcs #8-32#10-24 1/4"-20 5/16"-18 3/8"-16 Carbon Steel UNC Rivet Nuts Assortment

If you can find those in stainless, or even aluminum, they won't rust like the carbon steel.
You do need to have the appropriate grip range.  Most of those inserts are for much thinner sheet metal instead of fiberglass.

[Gweedo]

you can get them in stainless and different lengths, 24 gauge to 1/4.  you can purchase individual sizes in smaller packages 

 

[StellaTariche]

note from someone who used aluminum Pop-Rivets....

...don't.   The aluminum is not strong enough and will shear/break when you least expect it.

If you are going to pop rivet (especially without a backing washer), use stainless pop-rivets.

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Gweedo said:

you can get them in stainless and different lengths, 24 gauge to 1/4.  you can purchase individual sizes in smaller packages 

 

If your as old as I am, there was a USM (UMS) ….the “inventor or manufacturer of a POP RIVET, THREADED INSERT.  These were Aluminum with a steel mandrell, threaded (8-32…..same as all cabinet hardware) rivets.  You cinched them up until the body enlarged to fill the hole.  The cinchiing force was spread out over the entire threaded shank or body.  Should have bought a thousand.  Can’t fin them anymore….called many vendors.  These are the same principle. Except you need or maybe need a setting tool.

32 minutes ago, StellaTariche said:

note from someone who used aluminum Pop-Rivets....

...don't.   The aluminum is not strong enough and will shear/break when you least expect it.

If you are going to pop rivet (especially without a backing washer), use stainless pop-rivets.

Yes….I agree.  But we have more things, or at least I do, held on place by Aluminum rivets.  I started to specify or say SS, but many are not aware that most SS rivets, in the 3/16 range, will usually destroy even the nest one handed squeeze handles together “pop rivet tool”.  If you use SS, best have the long handled two hand tool or a pneumatic tool.  I kiled two nice habd tools, one a 1964 Craftsman, that like an old friend, when I installed my first set of Guardian plates. I probably set several thousand aluminum pop rivets on all types of boats from 14 ft flat bottom fishing to high performance 23 ft I/O V hull ski boats one summer at a boat factory.

Revisiting my post….in lieu of aluminum rivets, use 3/16 SS pop rivets if you have a 2 handed long handle tool or pneumatic.  If not, two 10-24 SS bolts and nylock nuts….with a shot of Loctite (Red).  Drill the aluminum skin to accommodate the nuts.

[malcoll]

Rivnuts are a great suggestion..I have a ton of them at home for my cars and motorcycles......if this fix fails that just became my #1 backup plan!