Robert92867 Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 I can't seem to figure out how to compress the tiny circlip and push the part back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Ivan K Posted September 12 Solution Share Posted September 12 Looks like the oil seal plate. It looks like the snap ring is way too spread now, possibly from installing into the groove the wrong way? It should go on into the groove open end first so the ends don't bend open. The plate should have a slight taper, just enough to compress it for install. I know, easier said... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 (edited) How about a tie-wrap with the ratchet tab broken (sort of a mini strap wrench)? Maybe hold the tie-wrap strap wrench in place with hemostats. Once it's started where it won't decompress release the hemostat, pull the "strap wrench" out and push it (or tap it) the rest of the way in. Bottom line an automotive machine shop will make it look easy, but . . . . once it's in how does it come out? - bob Edited September 12 by cbr046 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterSchweizer Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 22 minutes ago, cbr046 said: How about a tie-wrap with the ratchet tab broken (sort of a mini strap wrench)? Maybe hold the tie-wrap strap wrench in place with hemostats. Once it's started where it won't decompress release the hemostat, pull the "strap wrench" out and push it (or tap it) the rest of the way in. Bottom line an automotive machine shop will make it look easy, but . . . . once it's in how does it come out? - bob He will find out soon enough if it holds as a turbo can spin at 100,00 RPM, - Boom! Tolerances are key to staying together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 1 hour ago, cbr046 said: once it's in how does it come out? It is held in place only by tension of the split seal ring. It isn't a tight seal because of the split, normally the oil would not even make it to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert92867 Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 Luckily the Genuine Holset Rebuild Kit contains all the pieces I have been monkeying around with. I get more chances to fix it at $100 / pop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 Are you planning to take the turbo to a shop for balancing or did you mark shaft/wheel position before disassembly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert92867 Posted September 13 Author Share Posted September 13 I clocked it all with a punch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert92867 Posted September 13 Author Share Posted September 13 10 hours ago, cbr046 said: How about a tie-wrap with the ratchet tab broken (sort of a mini strap wrench)? Maybe hold the tie-wrap strap wrench in place with hemostats. Once it's started where it won't decompress release the hemostat, pull the "strap wrench" out and push it (or tap it) the rest of the way in. Bottom line an automotive machine shop will make it look easy, but . . . . once it's in how does it come out? - bob I tried the micro tie wrap twice. Even though the tie wrap portion is only 2mm wide, the head is 3mm. There isn't enough clearance to push the 3mm head far enough away down the circlip to engage the circlip into the taper. My hope is that the new circlip in the rebuild kit fits tighter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 You can buy the seals separately if needed, even Amazon should have them, possibly the newer overlapping type. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert92867 Posted September 22 Author Share Posted September 22 On 9/13/2023 at 6:14 AM, Ivan K said: You can buy the seals separately if needed, even Amazon should have them, possibly the newer overlapping type. My $100 Genuine Holset Rebuild Kit (made in China) arrived. Install went well up until tapping the shaft back in with a rubber hammer. d*** if I didn't bend the Piston Seal Ring. I searched Amazon, and sure enough, individual seal rings are available and fairly inexpensive. I ordered 2 sets, just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted September 22 Share Posted September 22 11 hours ago, Robert92867 said: My $100 Genuine Holset Rebuild Kit (made in China) arrived. Install went well up until tapping the shaft back in with a rubber hammer. d*** if I didn't bend the Piston Seal Ring. I searched Amazon, and sure enough, individual seal rings are available and fairly inexpensive. I ordered 2 sets, just in case. I hate the little least expected complications that get us stuck in middle of a project. I don't think a hammer is the right tool for the little ring tho but I can associate with the frustration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert92867 Posted September 23 Author Share Posted September 23 The new style split-end snap ring made all the difference. The shaft dropped in with gentle finger pressure. Tolerances are tight, bearings are new. MMM-MMM GOOD.MOV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted September 23 Share Posted September 23 (edited) Perfect, good to know. What size is your turbo? HX50 or 55, V or W? Oops, I just noticed it is in the title... Edited September 23 by Ivan K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now