No 120v heat on my monarch water hester

[Irishman1]

Hi guys,, on my 2005 monarch 30pp I have a gas/electric water heater. It has two lighted switches on my main panel that light up when they are turned on. This summer the 120v lighted switch stopped lighting up when on and  my water doesn’t heat on electric only. It does heat up on the 12 v gas switch. I don’t have power to the 120v switch on the back of the panel and all of the fuses/ breakers I could find are ok.. where do I go from here??

[Martinvz]

Check if you have 120v at the water heater using a volt meter with the 120v switch on(use caution). If you have 120v then turn off the power and measure the ohms across the heater element. Expect to see about 11 to 14 ohms (you can find youtube videos on this topic). If the reading is zero then you have a bad element and need to replace it.

[Irishman1]

I will but if I don’t have 120v at the switch on either side would I expect to have power at the heating element?

[Martinvz]

I believe the switch is 12v working thru a relay on your Intellitec ems sitting behind the coverplate next to your 120v breaker switches. Is your Intellitec display on the same panel as your water heater switch. I have attached a picture of my coaches panel with the bottom item being the Intellitec display.

[Irishman1]

58 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

I believe the switch is 12v working thru a relay on your Intellitec ems sitting behind the coverplate next to your 120v breaker switches. Is your Intellitec display on the same panel as your water heater switch. I have attached a picture of my coaches panel with the bottom item being the Intellitec display.

My Monaco is the monarch and does not have a intelligence system, just a switch for both gas or/and 120v from the panel

[Martinvz]

The switch says 120v but all the power on the panel is 12v, I believe. 
You do not have an Intellitec display anywhere in the coach?
What year is your coach?

[cbr046]

There's probably an EMS / energy management system aka Intellitec that switches the water heater out depending on other loads in the system.  Could be in that system.  Eventually it will control a relay for the HW heater elements, which have been verified . . . . right?

Sorry I can't steer you right to it.

- bob

[Tom Cherry]

The 2005 Monarch SE came with (Optional) and without Intellitec EMS.  Need feedback from @Irishman1.  Pictures of the control panel and the switches.

Then, a better solution can be suggested.

[Irishman1]

No EMS, my plain panel just has the tank monitoring levels, battery voltage for house and chassis, water pump switch, two slide buttons and the two lighted water heater power switches, 12v and 120v.  I have a small breaker box in the bedroom which has a 12v. breaker for the water heater, which is ok( and I put a new breaker in it too) and a fuse panel which also has a blade fuse for the water heater, which I replaced. The 12v switch test power at the switch , lights up and the gas lights and the water heater gets hot. The 120v has no power in or out( I also replaced the lighted switch since the panel was out)doesn’t light up and doesn’t produce hot water. How it has no power at the switch but the breaker and fuse is good probably means there’s something between the switch and panel I would think,hmmmm

[Bill R]

16 hours ago, Irishman1 said:

I don’t have power to the 120v switch on the back of the panel

@Irishman1 How do you know you do not have power to the switch?  Did you check with a VOM?  If so, were you checking for 120V or 12V?  As @Martinvz mentions, the 120V switch is most likely receiving 12V as the power source.  My 12V and 120V water heater switches receive 12V power from the same wire.  If your setup is the same, then if your 12V switch is working then that means you should also have 12V power to the 120V switch.   Check for 12V coming out of the 120V switch when it is switched on, and check making sure it is going to a good ground.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a grounding issue for the 120V relay behind the Water Heater.  The ground for the relay was loose.

Do you have wiring diagrams of your coach?  That should confirm that the 120V switch is powered by 12V.  I know it is confusing that the panel says 120V, but that is the common nomenclature to indicate that the water heater will be powered by 120V, but the 120V switch is receiving 12V that when turned on it will engage the 120V relay for the water heater.

All the best.

Edited September 27, 2023 by Bill R

[Irishman1]

3 hours ago, Bill R said:

@Irishman1 How do you know you do not have power to the switch?  Did you check with a VOM?  If so, were you checking for 120V or 12V?  As @Martinvz mentions, the 120V switch is most likely receiving 12V as the power source.  My 12V and 120V water heater switches receive 12V power from the same wire.  If your setup is the same, then if your 12V switch is working then that means you should also have 12V power to the 120V switch.   Check for 12V coming out of the 120V switch when it is switched on, and check making sure it is going to a good ground.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a grounding issue for the 120V relay behind the Water Heater.  The ground for the relay was loose.

Do you have wiring diagrams of your coach?  That should confirm that the 120V switch is powered by 12V.  I know it is confusing that the panel says 120V, but that is the common nomenclature to indicate that the water heater will be powered by 120V, but the 120V switch is receiving 12V that when turned on it will engage the 120V relay for the water heater.

All the best.

Thanks, that makes sense, I’ll go out and recheck the power coming into the panel again because I don’t think I checked the 12v because the lighted switch illuminates when I turn it on and the gas heater comes on and I have hot water.  I just checked the in and out lines to the switch as I originally thought it was just a burned out switch bulb. But the wster doesn’t get hot on just the 120v switch too. I’ll go out and pull the panel again to double check both switches and also take a picture of the panel too

Edited September 27, 2023 by Irishman1
Added content

[Tdkkart]

 My hot water relay in the box above the bed had a chunk of debris in it that kept contacts from closing and transferring power.

Cleaned the garbage out and it works like a champ.

 

[Tom Cherry]

23 hours ago, Irishman1 said:

Hi guys,, on my 2005 monarch 30pp I have a gas/electric water heater. It has two lighted switches on my main panel that light up when they are turned on. This summer the 120v lighted switch stopped lighting up when on and  my water doesn’t heat on electric only. It does heat up on the 12 v gas switch. I don’t have power to the 120v switch on the back of the panel and all of the fuses/ breakers I could find are ok.. where do I go from here??

Maybe I misunderstood.  Have you looked at your prints.  The switches are probably 12 VDC.  You would NOT, I think, be switching full 120 VAC power on a control panel switch. Test the 120 VAC switch for 12 VDC.  If so, then there is a downstream relay that switches the 120 VAC doe the electric element.  The other thing.  Have you done a continuity test across the element or also put temporary power (120 VAC) directly to the element.  

As I was typing, Tom K chimed in and confirmed my recollection of the system.  What is described is a 12 VDC relay or call it a Solenoid, that supplies power.  The water heater’s thermostat regulates the ON/OFF to maintain temperature.  Print’s are a good trouble shooting resource.

[Irishman1]

I just went out to the mh snd I unplugged the water heater from the single outlet under the sink next to it and I have power to the outlet, I will take the panel off tomorrow and recheck the leads to and from the switch that doesn’t light up. The other problem is that I can’t get to the water heater. It is in the cabinet under the counter besides the sink with no access besides the outside panel😢the Cabinet walls are solid on each side. I thought I could remove the sink and come down from the top but the double sink is off to the inside of the water heater. I’ll try to remove the drawers that might get me some access to the side with the power cord. But first I’ll recheck the panel wiring snd switches 

[Irishman1]

Here’s a pic of my panel. And a small water heater wiring diag. Not sure now that checking power to and from the switch is as straight forward as I think. The switch definitely doesn’t light up when turned on but switching the switch with a known hood one doesn’t work either so I’m confused for sure 

[Martinvz]

I had a similar problem a year ago. Turns out that the switch was faulty and had to be replaced. Had to pull the switch an find an equivalent switch online. 
However, the water heater still would not heat.  To access mine, I had to remove the partitioning under the sink to get to the element contacts. The resistance was not 14 ohm (can’t remember if zero or very high). Ordered a new one. Replacement is not easy. Had to use a short socket (and breaker bar) as the element is angled to the floor and a household water heater socket does not fit. And remember to drain the water first!

Since then, the heater has worked perfectly. 

[Irishman1]

I’ll check that. Thanks!

[Bill R]

@Irishman1 Looking at the manual diagram, there is a jumper between the two switches, so if the 12V switch is working, then you should also have 12V power to the 120V switch.  Likely a bad switch as @Martinvz experienced.

Edited September 28, 2023 by Bill R

[Irishman1]

3 hours ago, Bill R said:

@Irishman1 Looking at the manual diagram, there is a jumper between the two switches, so if the 12V switch is working, then you should also have 12V power to the 120V switch.  Likely a bad switch as @Martinvz experienced.

Is there another switch besides the two on the panel? I switched the lighted switches first and then tried a new one to no joy.. 

Just now, Irishman1 said:

Is there another switch besides the two on the panel? I switched the lighted switches first and then tried a new one to no joy.. 

I’ll take a picture of the back of the switches tomorrow. Show what it looks like in real life. There is a white jumper between the top two poles..the Atwood wiring diagram shows just two poles on the back of the switches but my two switches have three poles. I wonder if I mixed up the jumper at some point when I was trying a new switch and then put it back incorrectly jumped

[Tom Cherry]

OK...back to basics.  I'm trying to recap what you have posted. Lets start by getting the terminology correct.  Your Switches are NOT wired up the same as in the Atwood Diagram.  I have attached a PDF of the picture you took from the manual as well as the manual itself in case others want to chime in.

The poles on the switches are the terminals.  Poles is defined as how many different ON/OFF circuits there are in a switch.  You need the MONACO print for the water heater circuit.  That is what you use. 

ODDS ARE, you have three terminals on the switch.  Without a picture of the switch, here is how it should be wired and how to test it.  The CENTER Terminal (pole) has incoming 12 VDC Power.   There should be ONE common 12 VDC Power wire going to a Center Terminal....then it is jumpered over to the other.  This provides the Incoming power for the switch.  The other two terminals are for the SWITCHED POWER going out to a device and the other one lights up the internal Pilot light.

Thus, I would expect to see FOUR wires (when you pull the switches out.  One WIRE, to the center terminal is incoming 12 VDC power.  The other wire is a GROUND.  That provides the power for the internal Light.  There will be TWO OTHER WIRES.  One wire (which is the SWITCHED ON power for the GAS and the other is the Switched ON power for the Electric.  There is NO 120 VAC Power on the switches.  SOMETIMES the GROUND (on either end) will be a different color.  SO, if the end terminal is COPPER on both and the center and the other end is SILVER....that means that the COPPER is the GROUND.  The center receives the Power.  The OTHER Silver is the outgoing power.  Look at the Atwood Furnace Schematic.  Notice the TWO upper switches.  These are your DUAL switches.  So, test the switches.

Label the wires on each switch when you pull or pop out the switches.  They SNAP OUT...you do NOT need to pull the panel.  Put a small piece of tape on the top of the switch when you pull it out.  That will make sure that you orient it correctly when you reseat it.  BOTH SWITCHES OFF.  NOW, Use your VOM on volts.  Put a lead on the center and one end....If you LOOK closely, you should be able to see different colors....or look on the side of the switch.  Center to one pin.  if that is 12 VDC, then you know that side or that end is the GROUND...  Now, turn ON one switch.  You should have power (from the GROUND terminal to the opposite side or the OUTGOING power.  If BOTH switches WORK and both send out power, then the switches are OK.... 

If this is not clear....then go to this link.  This is the type switch you have.  IF the pilot light inside the switch is burned out, that may NOT be a sign that the switch doesn't WORK.  You have to test the terminals and see if the switch turns ON and OFF or the LOAD side (see the various views) has power.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/JR-Products/37212765.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwyNSoBhA9EiwA5aYlb2S6ydjHsDV4ZSw6NMMyIw3hfvQWiO2ImBXYxVvjuC2PmJc2nSKxUBoCPrcQAvD_BwE

OK....NOW, follow along.  Look at the Water Heater Page 3.  When you say, you have POWER coming from the OUTLET....that means, and I guessed wrong and some others may have, that you have a TOTALLY SELFCONTAINED system.  The AC line plugs into an outlet.  The panel switches goes to the Water Heater.  The INTERNAL 120 VAC Relay, which turns on the Heater Element is INSIDE the water heater.  SO....if there is 12 VDC coming OUT of the ELECTRIC Switch (you test the center and the LOAD terminals, then the problem is INSIDE water heater.  Again, looking at the Monaco Prints would have shown this.

HERE IS THE TEST...and MAYBE you have done that.  IF you labeled EVERY WIRE on Both switch....and then swapped the switches....and STILL NO ELECTRIC....then there is an internal problem.  

Hope this explains it.  If you look at the Furnace Schematic....those are the TWO switches.....YES, your two Switches have THREE Terminals.  SO, when the ON POWER OUT is going to the Water heater (either gal or electric), then the third wire on each switch is just the GROUND to light up the Pilot or ON light.

That's it.  NOW, if you can get to the 12 VDC wiring on the Water heater....then you can test the terminals.  If you have power between (12 VDC) Terminal WHT2 and GRN6....then you have the electric signal.  Likewise, if you have power between OR1 and GRN6, you have the gas.  

Hope this helps...

 

 

Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf 2004 Water Heater Page 23 Circuit.pdf Atwood Furnace Schematic.pdf

[Irishman1]

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK...back to basics.  I'm trying to recap what you have posted. Lets start by getting the terminology correct.  Your Switches are NOT wired up the same as in the Atwood Diagram.  I have attached a PDF of the picture you took from the manual as well as the manual itself in case others want to chime in.

The poles on the switches are the terminals.  Poles is defined as how many different ON/OFF circuits there are in a switch.  You need the MONACO print for the water heater circuit.  That is what you use. 

ODDS ARE, you have three terminals on the switch.  Without a picture of the switch, here is how it should be wired and how to test it.  The CENTER Terminal (pole) has incoming 12 VDC Power.   There should be ONE common 12 VDC Power wire going to a Center Terminal....then it is jumpered over to the other.  This provides the Incoming power for the switch.  The other two terminals are for the SWITCHED POWER going out to a device and the other one lights up the internal Pilot light.

Thus, I would expect to see FOUR wires (when you pull the switches out.  One WIRE, to the center terminal is incoming 12 VDC power.  The other wire is a GROUND.  That provides the power for the internal Light.  There will be TWO OTHER WIRES.  One wire (which is the SWITCHED ON power for the GAS and the other is the Switched ON power for the Electric.  There is NO 120 VAC Power on the switches.  SOMETIMES the GROUND (on either end) will be a different color.  SO, if the end terminal is COPPER on both and the center and the other end is SILVER....that means that the COPPER is the GROUND.  The center receives the Power.  The OTHER Silver is the outgoing power.  Look at the Atwood Furnace Schematic.  Notice the TWO upper switches.  These are your DUAL switches.  So, test the switches.

Label the wires on each switch when you pull or pop out the switches.  They SNAP OUT...you do NOT need to pull the panel.  Put a small piece of tape on the top of the switch when you pull it out.  That will make sure that you orient it correctly when you reseat it.  BOTH SWITCHES OFF.  NOW, Use your VOM on volts.  Put a lead on the center and one end....If you LOOK closely, you should be able to see different colors....or look on the side of the switch.  Center to one pin.  if that is 12 VDC, then you know that side or that end is the GROUND...  Now, turn ON one switch.  You should have power (from the GROUND terminal to the opposite side or the OUTGOING power.  If BOTH switches WORK and both send out power, then the switches are OK.... 

If this is not clear....then go to this link.  This is the type switch you have.  IF the pilot light inside the switch is burned out, that may NOT be a sign that the switch doesn't WORK.  You have to test the terminals and see if the switch turns ON and OFF or the LOAD side (see the various views) has power.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/JR-Products/37212765.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwyNSoBhA9EiwA5aYlb2S6ydjHsDV4ZSw6NMMyIw3hfvQWiO2ImBXYxVvjuC2PmJc2nSKxUBoCPrcQAvD_BwE

OK....NOW, follow along.  Look at the Water Heater Page 3.  When you say, you have POWER coming from the OUTLET....that means, and I guessed wrong and some others may have, that you have a TOTALLY SELFCONTAINED system.  The AC line plugs into an outlet.  The panel switches goes to the Water Heater.  The INTERNAL 120 VAC Relay, which turns on the Heater Element is INSIDE the water heater.  SO....if there is 12 VDC coming OUT of the ELECTRIC Switch (you test the center and the LOAD terminals, then the problem is INSIDE water heater.  Again, looking at the Monaco Prints would have shown this.

HERE IS THE TEST...and MAYBE you have done that.  IF you labeled EVERY WIRE on Both switch....and then swapped the switches....and STILL NO ELECTRIC....then there is an internal problem.  

Hope this explains it.  If you look at the Furnace Schematic....those are the TWO switches.....YES, your two Switches have THREE Terminals.  SO, when the ON POWER OUT is going to the Water heater (either gal or electric), then the third wire on each switch is just the GROUND to light up the Pilot or ON light.

That's it.  NOW, if you can get to the 12 VDC wiring on the Water heater....then you can test the terminals.  If you have power between (12 VDC) Terminal WHT2 and GRN6....then you have the electric signal.  Likewise, if you have power between OR1 and GRN6, you have the gas.  

Hope this helps...

 

 

Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf 2.54 MB · 1 download 2004 Water Heater Page 23 Circuit.pdf 332.24 kB · 1 download Atwood Furnace Schematic.pdf 71.41 kB · 1 download

Yes, thank you, just what I needed. My two lighted switches have thee ‘terminals’ I originally swapped the switches when the 120v light stopped illuminating thinking it was just the switch lite that was bad since I still had hot water. When I swapped switches it was still the 120v switch that didn’t lite up. Swapped them back and tried the breaker and fuses, which are all good. Had installed a new lighted switch since I had one. There is a small possibility that I didn’t wire the switches back correctly and I did have a bad switch, so I need to make sure the wires are on the correct terminals before chasing my tail around however unlikely. If all is correct and still no electric function I’ll need to get at the water heater and test there

[Irishman1]

5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK...back to basics.  I'm trying to recap what you have posted. Lets start by getting the terminology correct.  Your Switches are NOT wired up the same as in the Atwood Diagram.  I have attached a PDF of the picture you took from the manual as well as the manual itself in case others want to chime in.

The poles on the switches are the terminals.  Poles is defined as how many different ON/OFF circuits there are in a switch.  You need the MONACO print for the water heater circuit.  That is what you use. 

ODDS ARE, you have three terminals on the switch.  Without a picture of the switch, here is how it should be wired and how to test it.  The CENTER Terminal (pole) has incoming 12 VDC Power.   There should be ONE common 12 VDC Power wire going to a Center Terminal....then it is jumpered over to the other.  This provides the Incoming power for the switch.  The other two terminals are for the SWITCHED POWER going out to a device and the other one lights up the internal Pilot light.

Thus, I would expect to see FOUR wires (when you pull the switches out.  One WIRE, to the center terminal is incoming 12 VDC power.  The other wire is a GROUND.  That provides the power for the internal Light.  There will be TWO OTHER WIRES.  One wire (which is the SWITCHED ON power for the GAS and the other is the Switched ON power for the Electric.  There is NO 120 VAC Power on the switches.  SOMETIMES the GROUND (on either end) will be a different color.  SO, if the end terminal is COPPER on both and the center and the other end is SILVER....that means that the COPPER is the GROUND.  The center receives the Power.  The OTHER Silver is the outgoing power.  Look at the Atwood Furnace Schematic.  Notice the TWO upper switches.  These are your DUAL switches.  So, test the switches.

Label the wires on each switch when you pull or pop out the switches.  They SNAP OUT...you do NOT need to pull the panel.  Put a small piece of tape on the top of the switch when you pull it out.  That will make sure that you orient it correctly when you reseat it.  BOTH SWITCHES OFF.  NOW, Use your VOM on volts.  Put a lead on the center and one end....If you LOOK closely, you should be able to see different colors....or look on the side of the switch.  Center to one pin.  if that is 12 VDC, then you know that side or that end is the GROUND...  Now, turn ON one switch.  You should have power (from the GROUND terminal to the opposite side or the OUTGOING power.  If BOTH switches WORK and both send out power, then the switches are OK.... 

If this is not clear....then go to this link.  This is the type switch you have.  IF the pilot light inside the switch is burned out, that may NOT be a sign that the switch doesn't WORK.  You have to test the terminals and see if the switch turns ON and OFF or the LOAD side (see the various views) has power.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/JR-Products/37212765.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwyNSoBhA9EiwA5aYlb2S6ydjHsDV4ZSw6NMMyIw3hfvQWiO2ImBXYxVvjuC2PmJc2nSKxUBoCPrcQAvD_BwE

OK....NOW, follow along.  Look at the Water Heater Page 3.  When you say, you have POWER coming from the OUTLET....that means, and I guessed wrong and some others may have, that you have a TOTALLY SELFCONTAINED system.  The AC line plugs into an outlet.  The panel switches goes to the Water Heater.  The INTERNAL 120 VAC Relay, which turns on the Heater Element is INSIDE the water heater.  SO....if there is 12 VDC coming OUT of the ELECTRIC Switch (you test the center and the LOAD terminals, then the problem is INSIDE water heater.  Again, looking at the Monaco Prints would have shown this.

HERE IS THE TEST...and MAYBE you have done that.  IF you labeled EVERY WIRE on Both switch....and then swapped the switches....and STILL NO ELECTRIC....then there is an internal problem.  

Hope this explains it.  If you look at the Furnace Schematic....those are the TWO switches.....YES, your two Switches have THREE Terminals.  SO, when the ON POWER OUT is going to the Water heater (either gal or electric), then the third wire on each switch is just the GROUND to light up the Pilot or ON light.

That's it.  NOW, if you can get to the 12 VDC wiring on the Water heater....then you can test the terminals.  If you have power between (12 VDC) Terminal WHT2 and GRN6....then you have the electric signal.  Likewise, if you have power between OR1 and GRN6, you have the gas.  

Hope this helps...

 

 

Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf 2.54 MB · 1 download 2004 Water Heater Page 23 Circuit.pdf 332.24 kB · 1 download Atwood Furnace Schematic.pdf 71.41 kB · 1 download

Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams

[Irishman1]

5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK...back to basics.  I'm trying to recap what you have posted. Lets start by getting the terminology correct.  Your Switches are NOT wired up the same as in the Atwood Diagram.  I have attached a PDF of the picture you took from the manual as well as the manual itself in case others want to chime in.

The poles on the switches are the terminals.  Poles is defined as how many different ON/OFF circuits there are in a switch.  You need the MONACO print for the water heater circuit.  That is what you use. 

ODDS ARE, you have three terminals on the switch.  Without a picture of the switch, here is how it should be wired and how to test it.  The CENTER Terminal (pole) has incoming 12 VDC Power.   There should be ONE common 12 VDC Power wire going to a Center Terminal....then it is jumpered over to the other.  This provides the Incoming power for the switch.  The other two terminals are for the SWITCHED POWER going out to a device and the other one lights up the internal Pilot light.

Thus, I would expect to see FOUR wires (when you pull the switches out.  One WIRE, to the center terminal is incoming 12 VDC power.  The other wire is a GROUND.  That provides the power for the internal Light.  There will be TWO OTHER WIRES.  One wire (which is the SWITCHED ON power for the GAS and the other is the Switched ON power for the Electric.  There is NO 120 VAC Power on the switches.  SOMETIMES the GROUND (on either end) will be a different color.  SO, if the end terminal is COPPER on both and the center and the other end is SILVER....that means that the COPPER is the GROUND.  The center receives the Power.  The OTHER Silver is the outgoing power.  Look at the Atwood Furnace Schematic.  Notice the TWO upper switches.  These are your DUAL switches.  So, test the switches.

Label the wires on each switch when you pull or pop out the switches.  They SNAP OUT...you do NOT need to pull the panel.  Put a small piece of tape on the top of the switch when you pull it out.  That will make sure that you orient it correctly when you reseat it.  BOTH SWITCHES OFF.  NOW, Use your VOM on volts.  Put a lead on the center and one end....If you LOOK closely, you should be able to see different colors....or look on the side of the switch.  Center to one pin.  if that is 12 VDC, then you know that side or that end is the GROUND...  Now, turn ON one switch.  You should have power (from the GROUND terminal to the opposite side or the OUTGOING power.  If BOTH switches WORK and both send out power, then the switches are OK.... 

If this is not clear....then go to this link.  This is the type switch you have.  IF the pilot light inside the switch is burned out, that may NOT be a sign that the switch doesn't WORK.  You have to test the terminals and see if the switch turns ON and OFF or the LOAD side (see the various views) has power.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/JR-Products/37212765.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwyNSoBhA9EiwA5aYlb2S6ydjHsDV4ZSw6NMMyIw3hfvQWiO2ImBXYxVvjuC2PmJc2nSKxUBoCPrcQAvD_BwE

OK....NOW, follow along.  Look at the Water Heater Page 3.  When you say, you have POWER coming from the OUTLET....that means, and I guessed wrong and some others may have, that you have a TOTALLY SELFCONTAINED system.  The AC line plugs into an outlet.  The panel switches goes to the Water Heater.  The INTERNAL 120 VAC Relay, which turns on the Heater Element is INSIDE the water heater.  SO....if there is 12 VDC coming OUT of the ELECTRIC Switch (you test the center and the LOAD terminals, then the problem is INSIDE water heater.  Again, looking at the Monaco Prints would have shown this.

HERE IS THE TEST...and MAYBE you have done that.  IF you labeled EVERY WIRE on Both switch....and then swapped the switches....and STILL NO ELECTRIC....then there is an internal problem.  

Hope this explains it.  If you look at the Furnace Schematic....those are the TWO switches.....YES, your two Switches have THREE Terminals.  SO, when the ON POWER OUT is going to the Water heater (either gal or electric), then the third wire on each switch is just the GROUND to light up the Pilot or ON light.

That's it.  NOW, if you can get to the 12 VDC wiring on the Water heater....then you can test the terminals.  If you have power between (12 VDC) Terminal WHT2 and GRN6....then you have the electric signal.  Likewise, if you have power between OR1 and GRN6, you have the gas.  

Hope this helps...

 

 

Atwood-Water-Heaters.pdf 2.54 MB · 1 download 2004 Water Heater Page 23 Circuit.pdf 332.24 kB · 1 download Atwood Furnace Schematic.pdf 71.41 kB · 1 download

Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams

the two white wires are jumped between the top terminals 

yhe middle black wires are jumped tiger and tied to the water pump power switch

the green bottom terminal and the bottom grey wires go down the wall . The bottom grey shows 13 bolts when the 12v switch is on. That’s the only power I read with any terminal 

[cbr046]

I can almost promise the problem isn't in the switches.

If the outlet has power you should be making hot water. 

This diagram is for many 2003 models.  Pretty sure they didn't change much over the years.

This is page 41/50 of the wiring diagrams Frank McElroy put in the downloads section very recently.  The downloaded diagram is much sharper in detail.

- bob

 

[Tom Cherry]

4 hours ago, Irishman1 said:

Here is a picture of the back of my two switches. Not many of the colors are the same as the diagrams

the two white wires are jumped between the top terminals 

yhe middle black wires are jumped tiger and tied to the water pump power switch

the green bottom terminal and the bottom grey wires go down the wall . The bottom grey shows 13 bolts when the 12v switch is on. That’s the only power I read with any terminal 

From the TOP.  You NEED to use your VOM and identify all the wiring.  The Black wires going into the center terminals should have a full 12 VDC (OK 13 if you are on the inverter and it is charging) if you measure to the TWO top one.  That means that the TOP one is GROUND.  The Center one will be the INCOMING power.

NOW...turn off EACH SWITCH.  Turn ON the GAS Switch, measure from the Bottom terminal to the Top ONE.  If you get 12 (13.X) VDC....that switch is working. TURN OFF the Gas Switch.  You did NOT specify WHICH switch was which...but if I read and understand....the GAS SWITCH should have had the GRAY wire on it.....  

NOW, do the same....Turn on the "ELECTRIC" Switch.  If you do NOT get 12/13.X VDC then....the switch is bad.  That's it.  If the switch is bad....then there is NO 12 VDC going to the water heater. If I follow your post, then the green wire is on the bottom of the Electric.  If there is NO POWER, due to a BAD switch....you ain't gonna have Hot Water....

Read the above again and see if it make sense....if so....then....

Order a new switch.  Get it from the Etrailer or whatever.  YOU WILL NEED TO measure, Carefully, the slot of the rectangular opening.  Then compare that to the E-Trailer one.  It has dimensions.  Amazon sells zillions of these.  When you get the NEW switch....you have to make sure that you KNOW which one is ground (terminal may be different color from the CENTER and the Other end.  The Different one goes to the GROUND where the jumper wire is.  The Power from the other switch goes to the center.  The BOTTOM terminal, or wire will be the Green....if I read what you wrote correctly.

Good Luck...