jacwjames Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 This may be a self inflicted problem. I was running an antenna booster cable from behind the TV to the roof near the satellite dish, the was a cable already run but it was for an older 3G type booster. I bought a WeBoost RV reach booster and was running the new cable. The old cable was routed up around wires above where the BOMB was and I had to reach up above the cabinets to get it free. Had to remove the front light where there was already an opening cut into the wiring trough in the same opening the AC duct was run. There was also another opening directly above the second light where the satellite and booster cable went through the roof to the dish. I brought the new cable in same way. I then put the light back in and tested it, none of the LR lights work. Fuse in the bedroom panel is good. I not sure where the problem is, I am not getting any voltage on either of the switches. The front switch has two purple wires (which I think are the 3 way switch wires), a red one in the middle, and a ground. The rear switch has the two purple and the red, there is no ground on the rear switch. In the front the wires for the lights are routed down the passenger side pillar but are all grouped and wrapped in wire loom, if there's a problem it would be at the top. I took a remote camera and tried to look up above the cabinet next to the TV box, couldn't see anything. Looked down the wire pathway above the vent where cables are run and didn't see any problems. The 12 volt wires are actually run down the passenger side on the opposite side of a 2X4 in the ceiling. The area that I suspect the problem may be would be above the cabinet there the BOMB is. Decided to call it quit before I broke something else. But looking for tips that I can use tomorrow when I go back and try and fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary 05 AMB DST Posted September 27, 2023 Share Posted September 27, 2023 Does one switch control the lights or does each light have its own switch? Gary 05 AMB DST Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted September 27, 2023 Author Share Posted September 27, 2023 All 3 lights wired together but there are two switches. One in front near the door and one in the rear bedroom. I suspect something up front where I had to initially pull the wires free. The two purple wires are the "traveler" wires switch to switch for the 3 way function and the red wires are power to light but not sure. The power comes in according to the wiring schematic shows the rear most light so I'll check there first. I would have thought I would be seeing 12 volt at one of the switches. I guess it's YOUTUBE time to see how the 12 volt 3 way switch works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill R Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 @jacwjames Jim, I recently had issues with those lights and found a loose ground wire nut on one of them. Since the lights are in series you might check the connections for all the lights wired together for those switches. As a side note, when I installed my Weboost antenna I used an existing RF cable going through the roof and just used these adapters for the inside booster wire connection and antenna wire connection. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D28P28J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted September 28, 2023 Author Share Posted September 28, 2023 (edited) I figured I'd go ahead a run a new ground to check. Trying to figure out how the switches work. When I first found the existing cable one of the ends was screwed up anyway so figured I'd just pull the new cable. Then when I removed the antenna on the roof that end was all corroded anyway. Edited September 28, 2023 by jacwjames Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinvz Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 I am not sure about your coach but on my coach the switches are dpdt (double pole double throw) i.e. used for 3-way switches. I suggest you check the individual switches and possibly the wiring for continuity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted September 28, 2023 Author Share Posted September 28, 2023 I don't my switches are the same, basically on/off. But I will check the switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinvz Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 There should be 3 wires to each switch and wire placement is important. For basic on/off, it would be 2 wires. Keep in mind that my coach does not have any Intellitec control system and that may make your coach different ito switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 Basic 3-way switch wiring . . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted September 28, 2023 Author Share Posted September 28, 2023 I am familiar with 120 volt 3 way switches and the 12 volt should be similar. My biggest problem I don't have 12 volt to the switches. Going back to the basics and start from scratch, check the fuse, then connections, check ground. I'll also revisit the area above the cabinet where the BOMB is, this is the only place that I had my hands in that could have the wires, somewhere in the mess of wires there could be a loose connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution jacwjames Posted September 28, 2023 Author Solution Share Posted September 28, 2023 Fixed. I am embarrassed, it was the darn fuse. I had pulled it yesterday and checked it visually, looked fine. Today first thing I did was get my meter and ohm the fuse, it was bad and after a closer look saw it was blown. New fuse, lights worked. Lesson learned and wasted a couple hours yesterday. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 3 hours ago, jacwjames said: Fixed. I am embarrassed, it was the darn fuse. It's easy to miss a visual check on a fuse as they don't always blow in the middle. Try when you can't focus without cheaters! BEST WAY is to check it in circuit with a volt meter (even a trouble light will do it). There's usually a little metal contact on each side of the top of the fuse so don't even need to pull it. Now, are you wondering why it blew? Makes you go hmmmm . . . . - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted September 28, 2023 Author Share Posted September 28, 2023 17 minutes ago, cbr046 said: Now, are you wondering why it blew? Makes you go hmmmm . . . . - bob Another self inflicted mistake, and now the rest of the story. I took the first overhead light completely out. One of the wires pulled out and I mistakenly connected the neutral to hot side and when I first turn the lights on is when the fuse blew. Found this when I put the light back in and turned the switch on and the fuse blew again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 At least you didn't put in a third fuse! which gives me an idea . . . . Take a fuse, any value, and blow it. Tack some wire on each terminal and solder in an incandescent bulb that might draw 5A. Wow, that's 60W!. Ok, maybe a little less . . . . With a dead short the bulb would burn very brightly while in a normal circuit not so much. The bulb also protects the circuit to prevent burning any wires. If I wasn't so lazy I'd build it - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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