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Source Engineering Special Bilstein Shock Report…..WONDEFUL!


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I just had 8 Source Engineering shocks installed on my 2002 monaco windsor it rides like a dream so solid and smooth . I’m glad I did my homework on shocks  konl’s were 1600 and some odd dollars Bilistens were 1042 and the modify bilistens from source engineering were 1400 something. Source engineering made them specifically for road master frames Don’t mess around just go to source engineering.

Moderator EDIT.  Source Engineering paid Bistein for the “Shock Van” and also paid for all testing and development of the “Source Bilatein”.  This was done many years ago and the valving is proprietary and Source “owns” that.  Bilstein cannot manufacture for anyone else for sell through a distributor.  Source does not MAKE shocks.

End of EDIT.

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to Source Engineering Special Bilstein Shock Report…..WONDEFUL!
30 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:

Is there a part number stamped on the shocks from Source Engineering?

Probably.  BUT….you cannot BUY the specialty valve Source Shocks from anyone but Source.  They paid for the testing and development and Bilstein did NOT.  So. Bilstein cannot SELL or manufacture those shocks for anyone but source.  Call Source….they have the list of what shocks go on your MH.

BTW….these shocks are guaranteed for the LIFE of the Motorhome….not the original purchaser.  i had a leaky one.  They shjpped me a shock….no CREDIT CARD….I shipped the old one back…..No other MH shock is guaranteed that way….

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You buy the BEST, or PICK from the rest.  

THE optimum time to install new shocks and air bags is when you have new tires installed. It's ALL assessable  , which saves big $$$ .  

Soak the fittings/fasteners with 50/50 ATF & Acetone mixture. BEST penetrating agent i have ever used.

Use a knife or sawzall and cut the air bag out. So simple and out of the way. 

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10 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

So, are the Source shocks rebuildable? 

They are guaranteed, by Source for life of the Rig….regardless of the owner….or that was my understanding.  Call and ask.  Did you mean new bushings and mounts?  Having watched a NASCAR “shock tech” via a large glass window, perform his magic….I was not aware that one could rebuild shocks….

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Note:  Source offers two options  "IF" your rig applies.  They have two different size shafts, depending on what you have on your rig,  If the top is where the rod goes straight up through and bolts from the top you can use the larger (I think 64mm) shock.   If you have the eye on top where the bolt goes through the shock like it does on the bottom you have to use the smaller shock.   That's how I remember it being explained to me.  

I was able to put the larger shock on mine and it made a huge difference.  I did it myself with a buddy.  Hard to reach up and hold the shock from spinning, second pair of hands is necessary.  I think the larger shock was about $50 ish more. 

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2 hours ago, Gweedo said:

Note:  Source offers two options  "IF" your rig applies.  They have two different size shafts, depending on what you have on your rig,  If the top is where the rod goes straight up through and bolts from the top you can use the larger (I think 64mm) shock.   If you have the eye on top where the bolt goes through the shock like it does on the bottom you have to use the smaller shock.   That's how I remember it being explained to me.  

I was able to put the larger shock on mine and it made a huge difference.  I did it myself with a buddy.  Hard to reach up and hold the shock from spinning, second pair of hands is necessary.  I think the larger shock was about $50 ish more. 

Pricing may have changed.  Yes, there are TWO different shocks.  I and others opted for the Front HD shocks.  That was way before the "Watts Link Revolution" developed.  I was advised that adding the HD shocks upfront would "compensate" and give the driver more control and eliminate many of the complaints about wandering and tail wagging.  

I also added the Sway bars front and rear.  YES, they made a world of difference.  BUT, then, when the Watts was "standardized" and easily installed, I added that. The other member that had outfitted his MH just like mine agreed....  ADD THE WATTS FIRST....assuming one has the TRW Steering box and it is "adjusted".

THEN....start with shocks as they are a RIDE COMFORT item.  I left mine alone...and are still running and happy with the Source Shocks...  HD up front and Regular on the rear.  The other member caravaned to Alaska with one of the developers of the Watts.  When he got back, he pulled the Source Shocks OFF.  He followed the advise of the other member....  He put on soft Aftermarket (Monroe or Delco?) shocks and he and his wife liked the softer ride.  He said that he had to drive 10 miles or so SLOWER on some of the roads and could not keep up, due to the difference in the stiffness of the Source vs a lower end shock.

NOW....nothing is LIFE is free....  The DOWNSIDE....the cheaper shocks will DIE or not last as long.  SO, he is prepared to "reshock" every 3 years ago for the ride comfort.

BOTTOM LINE...  there IS a difference.  The Source Shocks have a max of THREE oscillations rebound.  The HD ones, will ride or be a little stiffer, than the regular.  I don't drive on roads like they encountered on their way to Alaska....so the HD works for me.  IF I were to do the whole drill over...I would STILL opt for the Source Regular and also add the sway bars...  FWIW, I had the Blue Ox TruCenter on a LONG time ago and the Watts just amplified its effectiveness.

NOW....a WORD OR TIP.  I talked to the shop that is local and Source sends the MH over.  The tech told me his trick.  He pulls down the "Skirt" so that it just hanging out.  He then takes a pair of needle nose locking pliers (Vice Grips...if you will).  He puts the pliers on the very upper part of the shock piston shaft.  OMG....THAT WILL RUIN IT.  NOT....that tip, on the Source Shocks NEVER goes into the shock so the seals are NOT abraded.  That way he locks down the shaft.  He uses a flat Ratcheting wrench...  18mm or maybe 3/4 I forget.  BUT, you need the "flip over to reverse" ratcheting wrench, not the one with a selector lever.  I did the rears by myself.  I showed the OTR tech that added the front sway bar and changed out my shocks the "trick" and he said it saved me a BUNCH of labor.

Just passing this on...

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24 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Yeah, I used vise grips up at the top of the shafts as well!

Odd why Bilstein didn't include a flat for a wrench like Monroe did 🤔.

My Source shocks had a flat.  I actually fabricated (with JB WELD) a 1/4" drive socket that would go over the flats.  Problem was..  There was NOT enough room way up there to get it in position and use a ratchet or a t-bar.  So I just passed.  I never could even get a open end wrench, with enough length in the handle for leverage to tighten.  Neednose Locking pliers....to the rescue...

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