Rewiring Generator to Chassis battery bank

[96 EVO]

What's a "chinese amazon acr" 🤔?

[dandick66]

1 hour ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Interesting stuff, as new owners of a 2006 42ft Dynasty, kept in remote outside storage, we had to learn quickly.. we now have a group 26 batt, 500+ cca in an amazon tray attached to the brackets holding the frt of the gennie slide, a chinese amazon acr is held by one of the 6mm screws onto  the top of the gen cover, this relay is slick, has 2 volt meters and a combining function. The position was determined by the reach of the original +ve feed  to the gen. New 1/0 cables go to the gen +ve and -ve terminals and another to the, new acr, which has a small ground wire to the new battery. Solar charging in storage(400w)keeps things happy with battery switches off, (Big Boy, that we have just had to clean, is not energised, v good) but voltage not high enough to charge the new battery, but driving from the alternator does fine.. early days, but so far we are happy with this.. gen start is immediate..

First post to share good things, in Cape Henlopen SP DE, starting a slow drive down the E Coast to winter in FL..

Regards

Laura and Trevor

Do you have the link for the ACR and battery tray?  
I hope you enjoy your time at Cape Henlopen. I was stationed there when it was still a Navy Base.  If you have a chance you should tour that part of the park.  It originally was coastal defense during WWII and the in the 60’s it became an “oceanographic research “ base.  A good portion of it is underground.  I was only stationed there for a year and then it was closed down.  It was one of the best duty stations.

 

[dandick66]

4 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Hopefully Dan D reads this before tearing his covers off in search.

Yea, I saw all of these posts before I started removing covers.  I think the only solution for me is the auxiliary starting battery.  The 2/0 cables just don’t cut it.

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Interesting stuff, as new owners of a 2006 42ft Dynasty, kept in remote outside storage, we had to learn quickly.. we now have a group 26 batt, 500+ cca in an amazon tray attached to the brackets holding the frt of the gennie slide, a chinese amazon acr is held by one of the 6mm screws onto  the top of the gen cover, this relay is slick, has 2 volt meters and a combining function. The position was determined by the reach of the original +ve feed  to the gen. New 1/0 cables go to the gen +ve and -ve terminals and another to the, new acr, which has a small ground wire to the new battery. Solar charging in storage(400w)keeps things happy with battery switches off, (Big Boy, that we have just had to clean, is not energised, v good) but voltage not high enough to charge the new battery, but driving from the alternator does fine.. early days, but so far we are happy with this.. gen start is immediate..

First post to share good things, in Cape Henlopen SP DE, starting a slow drive down the E Coast to winter in FL..

Regards

Laura and Trevor

You just provided “confirmation”.  The issue, as suspected, is not the CCA, but the length of the run.  Your Dynasty was designed for the genny to crank off the chassis.  A cranking chassis battery will deliver a better “jolt” of starting amps than a house deep cycle.  In Ben, as well as my Camelot, we have a 40 plus run of 1/0 cable from the rear to the front.  i have the 8KW, but, no issues.  Ben has a slightly longer run (2 ft longer MH) but a 10KW.  Same deal…1/0 cable.  He moved the Genny start to his Chassis.  Improved the situation, but still not acceptable. 

You didn’t provide a battery size or CCA.  However, odds are, that single battery is smaller than one of our cranking batteries…so instead of 50% of the chassis bank, it is 35%.  BUT, with only 35% of the Chassis bank, a short run of 1/0 cable works.

My unproven conclusion when folks have issues with a Dynasty or up 10KW and end up with an Aux battery is that the cable….and I haven’t pulled the print in a long time, is a high resistance connection or a bad cable end and the “fix” didn’t address the real issue, but was an “alternative”.

In you case, I pulled the prints.  DUMB and DUMBER.  Monaco ran a 4/0 cable to FRB...to a Chassis Battery Stud. THEN, a #2ga lead to both the positive and negative.  Even a 1/0 or a 2/0 cable would probably have delivered sufficient current, especially from the 1900 CCA Bank.  Your rig has a separate battery and a 1/0 cable.  SO, if a 1/0 works for only say 500 - 600 CCA, then if you delivered half that from the 4/0....BINGO.  If you ever have an issue...then substitute a 2/0 cable, including the GROUND from the FRB Chassis stud.  That sucker should crank instantly.

SOMETIMES??????

 

2006 Dynasty High Current Drawing.pdf

[Guest Ray Davis]

3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

What's a "chinese amazon acr" 🤔?

Must be a chinese version of Blue Seas ML-ACR.

[Trevor and Laura]

Apologies for the slow response, have very poor cell service here.. 

That ACR was about $100 Cdn, black extruded Al hsg, low profile, plenty of clearance under the top cross bar for it. Voltmeters show the new group 26 volts and that of the chassis bank and is how I knew that the 5yr old Big Boy was not connecting, only reading 12.? with the generator running. The battery tray shipped from MI or WI, came in 2 lengths,  short, still could be shorter, sharp and unpainted. Used the existing bolts to mount it, NO drilling.. Copied someone elses wiring layout but different component layout, did not want to drill and rivet to the generator front casing blindly. Thats 1/0 cable was the biggest cost, 100% copper from Napa, and now I have a big crimper.. not sure if I can do links..

I was first here in the 90s, loved the place, sites completely different, no museum, just BIG doors in the back of the dunes, easier to picture in some ways those earlier times, good to hear about them..

[jimc99999]

On 10/27/2023 at 9:05 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Many folks do this.  Some of the newer Models come with the Genny being started from the Chassis.  If you do that, and MY OPINION, you will be prone to more issues.  If your Chassis is dead....then you are totally INCAPACITATED.  

The problem with starting the generator from the house batteries is that when you want to start the generator to recharge the house batteries, they are low. If you didn't do something dumb like leave your headlights/running lights on, your chassis batteries will be at normal charge. You also don't use deep cycle batteries for cranking the main motor because cranking batteries are optimized for flowing a lot of current for a short time, unlike the house batteries.

So in normal usage, cranking the generator from the chassis batteries is better.  And in the event you drain your chassis batteries and they can't start the small genny motor, you do still have options.

You might be able to easily switch the generator to start on the house batteries. For me this involves moving a single cable from the chassis battery bus to the house battery bus.  Even though it's easy, though, it won't be helpful for me. If I'm starting the generator it's because I need to charge the house batteries, and if I need to charge the house batteries they won't flow enough current to crank the generator.

Another option is to use your towed vehicle to charge the chassis batteries enough to start the generator. Or if you completely killed your chassis batteries by leaving the headlights on, then you might need to switch the generator to crank from the house batteries, and use your towed vehicle to charge the house batteries enough to crank the generator.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, jimc99999 said:

The problem with starting the generator from the house batteries is that when you want to start the generator to recharge the house batteries, they are low. If you didn't do something dumb like leave your headlights/running lights on, your chassis batteries will be at normal charge. You also don't use deep cycle batteries for cranking the main motor because cranking batteries are optimized for flowing a lot of current for a short time, unlike the house batteries.

So in normal usage, cranking the generator from the chassis batteries is better.  And in the event you drain your chassis batteries and they can't start the small genny motor, you do still have options.

You might be able to easily switch the generator to start on the house batteries. For me this involves moving a single cable from the chassis battery bus to the house battery bus.  Even though it's easy, though, it won't be helpful for me. If I'm starting the generator it's because I need to charge the house batteries, and if I need to charge the house batteries they won't flow enough current to crank the generator.

Another option is to use your towed vehicle to charge the chassis batteries enough to start the generator. Or if you completely killed your chassis batteries by leaving the headlights on, then you might need to switch the generator to crank from the house batteries, and use your towed vehicle to charge the house batteries enough to crank the generator.

Agree with you on some things…. For example, the battery boost circuit was typically, in the earlier days, the HOUSE circuit.  So, low house NO BOOST.  Probably still like that on the Camelot and lower.  Circa 2005 or so, Monaco went to a high tech Intellitec board (#6 RRB).  IT will power the battery boost from either bank.  So you can use the Boost to SAFELY crank the Genny from the Chassis.  Always advisable to have the engine running….

Next.  Be cautious when using jumper cables from a TOAD or another vehicle.  We have had reports of damage, especially on the ones with higher end electronics….but also on lower ends.  That is why the Boost is preferable.  It does NOT ARC like just hooking up cables in the old days.  The recommended practice.  Turn off BOTH DISCONNECT SWITCHES.  Hook up the Jumper cables.  Start the TOAD or other vehicles.  THEN turn on the Disconnect of the bank you need.  Let it run long enough to put a good surface charge on.  Maybe 20 minutes.  Turn off the genny or the engine. Turn off the disconnects….Remove the Jumper cables.  Turn on the disconnects.  Start the engine or genny.  Suggested you use the Boost….if needed.

One OTHER METHOD.  if the boost doesn’t work….and usually with the lower current draw Genny, it will…follow the above.  ONLY JUMPER FROM CHASSIS TO HOUSE with the disconnects OFF.  THEN remove with them off.  Much safer on the MH Electrics.

The logic of using the House to start the Genny was based, per Monaco and other manufacturers, that the Genny would be running and charging the house….and then you could start the engine….which was important.  The logic was also that the House was at 50% SOC.  Due to the lower current draw of the smaller genny engines, 50% SOC was more than Ample.  Then as time went on and Monaco switched to a FULL BiRD system, or Bidirectional, you could switch to the Chassis.  Ben and my Camelots were a hybrid.  In addition, the 10Kw units were not used as much.  Folks like me rarely have issues with the 8KW and the House.  From helping trouble shoot…as well as my own “Genny no start”, it is not a matter of “low” battery, but a high resistance connection.  
 

The other thing is that Monaco got dumb….and downsized the cables.  That is why Ben saw “some” improvement when he switched banks and cabled his genny to the Chassis. First, the chassis is a Cranking battery.  The House is NOT….but again, a 50% SOC House bank, properly cabled with no high resistance connections will start a 10 KW unit.  BUT…when the cables are undersized…as in a 1/0 on the Camelots, even switching to Cranking battery….in cold weather, is marginal….as Ben posted.

At least (going out on a limb) 80 - 90% of folks with the 10KW genny’s and crank them off the House are fine.  And the 2005 or so and up, Dynasty,  they DO crank off the Chassis.  But, in at least 2007, the cables from the Chassis FRB stud (a 4/0 feed) were too puny for the Genny….and if there was a “ground” issue, undiagnosed, then the positive was blamed….and folks added the supplemental battery….

[96 EVO]

Yes, for the most part, my 10K turns over fine since I switched to the chassis bank.

We recently spent a weekend boondocking and it was just below freezing in the morning, and I wasn't sure if she was going to spin over fast enough to start or not.

Of course, I had the boost switch if needed.

[Tom Cherry]

1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:

Yes, for the most part, my 10K turns over fine since I switched to the chassis bank.

We recently spent a weekend boondocking and it was just below freezing in the morning, and I wasn't sure if she was going to spin over fast enough to start or not.

Of course, I had the boost switch if needed.

Ben, come on….you KNOW you want to swap those STUPID 1/0 cables….and hook the positive to the Genny up to that 200 A stud up front and use at least a 2/0.  Based on what was posted, even a short 1/0 cable might just be enough….but 2/0….that sucker will spin when Hades Freezes over.  Seriously, if you need to crank and don’t have enough amps…the Engine running will pump out 160 amps….to help.  I still beleive, based on calculations and also common sense, that Monaco SHOULD have put a 2/0 positive and ground on your 10Kw.  My 8Kw starts in cold weather from my House…but they ARE charged..

Maybe…..your wife will give you a ROUND-2-IT for Christmas….LOL….

[96 EVO]

I have one last upgrade to do before the 'constant' cold weather arrives.

New front Koni's on there way!

I will revisit this mod in the Spring.

[jimc99999]

50 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

The other thing is that Monaco got dumb….and downsized the cables.  That is why Ben saw “some” improvement when he switched banks and cabled his genny to the Chassis. First, the chassis is a Cranking battery.  The House is NOT….but again, a 50% SOC House bank, properly cabled with no high resistance connections will start a 10 KW unit.  BUT…when the cables are undersized…as in a 1/0 on the Camelots, even switching to Cranking battery….in cold weather, is marginal….as Ben posted.

All good points. In my 97 Windsor, the battery boost solenoid clunked when you used the switch, and appeared to connect, but couldn't pass much current. So to start the genny when house batteries got low, I either had to start the main engine (provided charging current to house batteries) or manually boost the house batteries from the chassis batteries using jumper cables. So if the boost solenoid actually worked, the battery used to start the generator probably wouldn't matter as much.  

I changed the genny start battery when I replaced the isolator and boost solenoid with a BlueSea ML-ACR, and haven't needed boost functionality since.

As for cable size, the 7500 in my 97 Windsor starts from a 4AWG cable, maybe even a 6AWG. I was surprised at how small it was. But even at 30F, the chassis batteries have no trouble getting the generator started.

[96 EVO]

6 minutes ago, jimc99999 said:

  So if the boost solenoid actually worked, the battery used to start the generator probably wouldn't matter as much.  

 

Jim, my intention when I switched from house bank to chassis bank was, I 'thought' I'd use AGS more often than I do.

Therefore, needed reliable CCA to the gen when I'm not around to press a boost switch.

[Tom Cherry]

1 minute ago, jimc99999 said:

All good points. In my 97 Windsor, the battery boost solenoid clunked when you used the switch, and appeared to connect, but couldn't pass much current. So to start the genny when house batteries got low, I either had to start the main engine (provided charging current to house batteries) or manually boost the house batteries from the chassis batteries using jumper cables. So if the boost solenoid actually worked, the battery used to start the generator probably wouldn't matter as much.  

I changed the genny start battery when I replaced the isolator and boost solenoid with a BlueSea ML-ACR, and haven't needed boost functionality since.

As for cable size, the 7500 in my 97 Windsor starts from a 4AWG cable, maybe even a 6AWG. I was surprised at how small it was. But even at 30F, the chassis batteries have no trouble getting the generator started.

YES….a lot of water and experience.  The concerns about Jump Starting is something we Moderators pickup and try to caution on.  Your rig was not as susceptible to such.  But we have had major…as in totally destroying or substantially damaging the Kongsberg CCM Chassis MPX on the late 2008 and all 2009 Dynasty and up.  

Yes also to the upgrading of the boosts….they were small….100 A and then later 200A, but not continuous….the Intellitec Big Boy, which is most commonly used now, will support maybe (memory) 1200 A, intermittent…so way MORE than the 200 - 250 Amps that the 10Kw will need….at “normal” warmer ambients.

GREAT move on the BS ML-ACR.  That puppy is a great alternative to revuikding or replacing the BiRD system….and, you are right….you can, on the simple ones, walk back, switch to Manual….jump start and drive on.

I HATE to even think of the posts and debates about “this is HOW the Genny SHOULD be started”….as well as the lack of proper trouble shooting….to check current draw and voltage drops and such.

Your cable size is fascinating….but today, a 4/0 cable, from the rear to the FRB….fuse size alludes me….then downrated to a #2AWG for say 20 ft….No WONDER even a cranking chassis battery has issues…

Thanks….

 

[dandick66]

8 hours ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Apologies for the slow response, have very poor cell service here.. 

That ACR was about $100 Cdn, black extruded Al hsg, low profile, plenty of clearance under the top cross bar for it. Voltmeters show the new group 26 volts and that of the chassis bank and is how I knew that the 5yr old Big Boy was not connecting, only reading 12.? with the generator running. The battery tray shipped from MI or WI, came in 2 lengths,  short, still could be shorter, sharp and unpainted. Used the existing bolts to mount it, NO drilling.. Copied someone elses wiring layout but different component layout, did not want to drill and rivet to the generator front casing blindly. Thats 1/0 cable was the biggest cost, 100% copper from Napa, and now I have a big crimper.. not sure if I can do links..

I was first here in the 90s, loved the place, sites completely different, no museum, just BIG doors in the back of the dunes, easier to picture in some ways those earlier times, good to hear about them..

When you get a chance/good signal a picture of your setup would be very helpful.  It will save me from having to reinvent the wheel.  
 

Those big doors housed the rails for the 18 inch guns that protected the Delaware Bay.  They would prevent ships from getting to Philadelphia and Wilmington. Those guns were long removed before I was stationed there.  

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Jim, my intention when I switched from house bank to chassis bank was, I 'thought' I'd use AGS more often than I do.

Therefore, needed reliable CCA to the gen when I'm not around to press a boost switch.

That’s the reason (AGS) I changed mine from the house to chassis.  Last year I had the coach parked for about a month, but had the res fridge running.  I found out that I had to set the AGS at 12.2 volts in order for the generator to start.  Needless to say, the generator ran a lot.  
I wish Monaco/Navistar would have run the 4/0 to the FRB so I could tap off of it.  

[Trevor and Laura]

Here we are talking of batteries and that's what the big doors had on them: " Battery No 1", there may have been 4 of them, the museum is good, but no big guns...

Will take a picture. We are rarely without shore power camping so the generator should have an easy life..

[Trevor and Laura]

Hi again, pictures of our set-up for the generator battery. I did cut off those big tabs/hooks on the top of the tray and shortened the hold down bar with a new hole. Its length was more than 9.5ins, closer to 10. (You will see them in the listing).

The switch to close the relay could have been in a better position, but it does latch and the meters indicate.. mine is 150A, listing on Amazon y'day was 250. Moderator rotated for clarity.

Just seen pics are rotated,  sorry.

https://www.amazon.ca/Intelligent-Universal-Sensitive-Emergency-Controller/dp/B08H21FCV7/ref=sr_1_30?crid=1GHPFPY0MPSWQ&keywords=2%2Bbattery%2Brelay&qid=1700095223&sprefix=2%2Bbattery%2Brelay%2Caps%2C683&sr=8-30&th=1

https://www.amazon.ca/Allstar-ALL76101-Lightweight-Battery-Mounting/dp/B006K8V3XE/ref=sr_1_56?crid=272ZMG9MX1GWN&keywords=battery+box&qid=1700094951&sprefix=battery+box%2Caps%2C601&sr=8-56

 

 

 

Edited November 17, 2023 by Tom Cherry
Rotate Pictures for Clarity

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Hi again, pictures of our set-up for the generator battery. I did cut off those big tabs/hooks on the top of the tray and shortened the hold down bar with a new hole. Its length was more than 9.5ins, closer to 10. (You will see them in the listing).

The switch to close the relay could have been in a better position, but it does latch and the meters indicate.. mine is 150A, listing on Amazon y'day was 250. Moderator rotated for clarity.

Just seen pics are rotated,  sorry.

https://www.amazon.ca/Intelligent-Universal-Sensitive-Emergency-Controller/dp/B08H21FCV7/ref=sr_1_30?crid=1GHPFPY0MPSWQ&keywords=2%2Bbattery%2Brelay&qid=1700095223&sprefix=2%2Bbattery%2Brelay%2Caps%2C683&sr=8-30&th=1

https://www.amazon.ca/Allstar-ALL76101-Lightweight-Battery-Mounting/dp/B006K8V3XE/ref=sr_1_56?crid=272ZMG9MX1GWN&keywords=battery+box&qid=1700094951&sprefix=battery+box%2Caps%2C601&sr=8-56

 

 

 

WOW....You did a GREAT JOB.  I did rotate the pictures.  That is a first class way to add an AUX Starting Battery. 

NOW, please understand that the rest of this post is NOT a criticism, but is another way to achieve the same results, without, I THINK, the effort and costs that went into this first class installation.  There is also a "warning" that has to be made about having the rig set up like you do....so here goes.

I pulled your prints as well as the 2009 Dynasty (the upper ends like Execs, Sigs, Navs and Imperials are ALL the same when you look at the High Current diagram....  WHY oh WHY did Monaco get cheap (stupid) on the #2 Gauge cables from the Chassis Stud (FRB) to the Genny?  That is (or has been for a LOT of folks) a disaster.  NOW, I can't speak for EVERY MEMBER that added a Battery or ones that posted about starting issues, but my take...  

Per the Welding Cable Charts...  a #2 AWG (50 Ft) will deliver 200 Amps.  The Chassis Stud up front is cabled with a 4/0 monster.  The table I used only runs to 600 Amps...but a 4/0 cable (50 Ft) will deliver WAY MORE power than is needed to start the Genny.  You installed a 500 CCA battery and run a 1/0 cable to the Genny.  And THAT WORKS... That also proves the logic that if a 1/0 cable had been run to replace the #2AWG, then the cranking current would have been bumped up from 200 to 350 Amps.  PROBABLY enough.  BUT, if a 2/0 cable had been run (positive and GROUND), then there would have been 450 Amps available.  The Chassis has 1900 Amps...so, the 4/0 would have been WAY OVERSIZED.  Remember, the engine only has a 4/0 cable to the starter....

My take....if one has an issue with a Chassis Start Genny and has at least a 2/0 chassis stud, up front, then running a 2/0 cable should carry the load.  The ONLY issue....and obviously Monaco did NOT worry about that....the size or rating of the fuse or circuit breaker that feeds the 4/0 cable up to the FRB Chassis Stud.

Second plan...would have been to installed a Blue Seas 4 position (Bat 1, Bat 2, Both, OFF) selector switch and then tied the House and Chassis together....but RUN a 2/0 cable to the Genny.

Now, again...many folks....and Trevor, your location was extreme, rarely have issues starting the Genny as cabled.  BUT, if you look at the pure physics or cable rating....there is a TREMENDOUS voltage drop on the #2AWG.

AGAIN....you did this FIRST CLASS....and it looks great.  BUT, if someone else is having issues, I might recommend to them that they consider first replacing the cables....which you did... BOTH NEG and POS and THEN seeing what happens.

NOW...Trevor, you will have to chime in.  You say that you can NOT charge the Genny Battery when on shore....  That is fascinating and MIGHT be a function of the ISOLATOR.  I don't fully understand it....and you probably do.

BUT, you can, as expected, charge the Genny while driving.  THAT makes sense.

As to your Big Boy.  You have a special board in the RRB.  Board #6.  That Board is what controls your BOOST (switch) and the BiRD Charging.  That board is prone to fail....and there were, in some years, a supposed Manufacturing defect.  We have TWO GREAT RESOURCES....  @Frank McElroy & @pwhittle.  They both has the skill set, electronics background, and equipment to repair or replace chips and make the Intellitec Board #6 WORK.

The "Test" and one of them will probably CHIME IN..  When on shore or Genny, the Big Boy should be humming or singing like a noisy bird.  The BB should be HOT, so hot to the touch, that you can't hold or keep your fist closed on it.  THAT IS NORMAL.  The BB is a Pulsed Solenoid...as in.  When the #6 Intellitec senses conditions and the BiRD Bi-Directional charging is needed, then it sends out a pulsed voltage.  Don't know the frequency, but if you can (simplistically) measure the control terminals on a DVM, it will or should read around 8 VDC.  I have the lower end Intellitec BiRD Diesel2 and my signal is reduced...so I see or measure around 4 VDC.  BOTH WORK.  My BB runs quieter and cooler.  The #6 Board keeps the BB "excited".

SO, as LONG as you are getting the signal....HUM and HOT....then the #6 Board is "probably....Frank might state it otherwise...LOL" working.  THEN, if you measure the Voltage from each lug to ground...it should be the same....as in in the 13.0 range or whatever (close) that the Magnum remote is showing.  ALSO, you need to read Lug to Lug.  You should have less than maybe 0.2 or maybe even less than 0.1 VDC across the lugs...that means the contacts are CLEAN...

SO...that is my take.

AGAIN...you did a great job...but there may be a simpler solution....and it will, I think, work great...  However, if there are folks that have tried this or my "theoretical" numbers don't match reality.... then Chime in.  After reading all the tales of needing a separate starting battery, and looking at the prints...  The issue was the cabling.

NOW... THAT assumes that the prints are correct...and they are the same from at least 2006 to the 2009's and Navistar never changed much.  The Prints go back to 05....so, if there was a "RUNNING" assembly line change...which Monaco was NOTORIOUS FOR....and no one told the "Engineers" that they upgraded the Stud to Genny wiring (both POS and NEG), then all bets are off.

Thanks for the pictures and information....

 

38070173 (Schematic, High Current,Low Voltage) Layout1 (1).pdf

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Hi again, pictures of our set-up for the generator battery. I did cut off those big tabs/hooks on the top of the tray and shortened the hold down bar with a new hole. Its length was more than 9.5ins, closer to 10. (You will see them in the listing).

The switch to close the relay could have been in a better position, but it does latch and the meters indicate.. mine is 150A, listing on Amazon y'day was 250. Moderator rotated for clarity.

Just seen pics are rotated,  sorry.

https://www.amazon.ca/Intelligent-Universal-Sensitive-Emergency-Controller/dp/B08H21FCV7/ref=sr_1_30?crid=1GHPFPY0MPSWQ&keywords=2%2Bbattery%2Brelay&qid=1700095223&sprefix=2%2Bbattery%2Brelay%2Caps%2C683&sr=8-30&th=1

https://www.amazon.ca/Allstar-ALL76101-Lightweight-Battery-Mounting/dp/B006K8V3XE/ref=sr_1_56?crid=272ZMG9MX1GWN&keywords=battery+box&qid=1700094951&sprefix=battery+box%2Caps%2C601&sr=8-56

 

 

 

I HOPE that the "software does NOT combine" these posts.  There needs to be a WARNING...and I do NOT know exactly how, so Trevor, may have to chime in.

IF the Genny Cranking Battery ever has to be JUMPED...the "Charging Lead" in the first picture (incoming assumed to be the "charge me", cable needs to be REMOVED FIRST.  There is a warning that we repeat many times.  Jump Starting a Monaco, especially a CCM Chassis, but there have been issues with many lower ends...without CCM, is dangerous. 

My preferred method is to TURN OFF both Disconnects.  Then Jumper the House and Chassis.  Then turn on the Disconnects and let the Jumper do the "jumpering".  The Switches are positive and you don't get "arcs or circuit blips. I KNOW from experience that doing that on my Vette's battery....causes codes...  So, if you need to JUMP....then use the Jumper cable. READ the last paragraph for the HOW TO DISCONNECT

BUT, if you need to JUMP from a Car or truck...either the Engine or House...then TURN OFF BOTH Disconnect switches.  Then install, properly, the cables to the battery your need to boost.  THEN TURN ON ONLY THAT DISCONNECT SWITCH.  Start and let it run...to recharge or whatever.

AFTER you have Charged, hopefully enough so that the "depleted" battery will restart whichever engine you need...then shut OFF that engine.  TURN OFF the Disconnects...and remove the cables (Jumper internally or to a Vehicle).  Turn back on the Disconnects and then use the Boost is necessary to start.  

IN THE UNLIKELY event you can't do that...then you need to QUICKLY REMOVE the Negative on the Car or Truck....so there is no arcing or intermittent connection.

Many folks, me included, have "lost" the Intellitec MPX and had to REBOOT or there have been issues, SERIOUS ONES, with the Kongsberg/CCM....

SO...even something as seeming minor as jumping the Starting Battery for the Genny needs to be handled with care.

AGAIN...Trevor, great job....

 

[Trevor and Laura]

Good warnings, thankyou Tom. After running the house bank down keeping the tanks "warm" and running the generator to charge is when I knew we had an unhappy Big Boy, warm, but with 2volts between the big terminals. This just a couple of days before heading out. The voltmeters on the new  isolation relay were only showing the actual battery voltages, no charging. The PO had left us a used spare BB that he had cleaned and this went on, along with an extra wire on that impossible to reach rear coil terminal. Now easy to read the "actual" voltage across, as you foretold it was 8 volts.. the once new BB is again ready for duty.

Our storage is far from ideal, but we were never stuck with needing a boost. Over a week or 2, without working solar both banks lost voltage too quickly, but the C isl always fired up, thankfully, but not the generator even with boost. There are NO parasitic drains on the new battery so it should be fine for ??? The isl running puts out 14+v and the relay clicks shut, it can be closed manually with that little switch tucked under the original cable, either to force charging or to get help from the chassis bank.. with the relay open I think the little battery is isolated from all other things Monaco, should we need to jump it, if we can get the slide out, lol.  I used hi tech 1/4in foam board from a craft store under the battery and in 2 wide strips behind to protect the bolt heads..

And then we resolved and upgraded the solar issues, 400w now, love that they do not need the battery switches to be on..

Hope this addresses your concerns

[dandick66]

Trevor, thanks for the photos and the links.

I am thinking of mounting my battery on top of the exhaust heat shield.  I ran the generator for 75 minutes the other day and the heat shield was barely warm to the touch.  The advantage of this setup would be very short cable runs.

Any thoughts, questions or concerns would be appreciated before I proceed with this.

 

[Trevor and Laura]

Hi Dan, and cable is expensive, ours cost 25% more than the battery. I do not find it easy working under there, so for me not so good, but I also have concerns about ours being out there in front as 2 weeks ago we had a close call with a deer..  Life is full of compromises and choices it seems.  Make sure there is room for the hanging cables when slide is retracted. 

In First Landing SP VA today for a week, a 50ft site in the dunes.. 

Regards 

[dandick66]

42 minutes ago, Trevor and Laura said:

Hi Dan, and cable is expensive, ours cost 25% more than the battery. I do not find it easy working under there, so for me not so good, but I also have concerns about ours being out there in front as 2 weeks ago we had a close call with a deer..  Life is full of compromises and choices it seems.  Make sure there is room for the hanging cables when slide is retracted. 

In First Landing SP VA today for a week, a 50ft site in the dunes.. 

Regards 

So, I guess you drove down the Eastern Shore (Rt 13) when you left Delaware.  The Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel is an engineering marvel.  I think it’s almost 26 miles long and expen$ive in an RV.  I hope you enjoy your time in Virginia Beach. 

[Trevor and Laura]

Indeed, a brilliant idea, ships keep getting bigger, high bridges always need to be higher and still ships crash into things. Toll was $43, assume they could see our little toad..  did it last year with a suv and TT.

 

[Tom Cherry]

On 11/17/2023 at 3:35 PM, Trevor and Laura said:

Good warnings, thankyou Tom. After running the house bank down keeping the tanks "warm" and running the generator to charge is when I knew we had an unhappy Big Boy, warm, but with 2volts between the big terminals. This just a couple of days before heading out. The voltmeters on the new  isolation relay were only showing the actual battery voltages, no charging. The PO had left us a used spare BB that he had cleaned and this went on, along with an extra wire on that impossible to reach rear coil terminal. Now easy to read the "actual" voltage across, as you foretold it was 8 volts.. the once new BB is again ready for duty.

Our storage is far from ideal, but we were never stuck with needing a boost. Over a week or 2, without working solar both banks lost voltage too quickly, but the C isl always fired up, thankfully, but not the generator even with boost. There are NO parasitic drains on the new battery so it should be fine for ??? The isl running puts out 14+v and the relay clicks shut, it can be closed manually with that little switch tucked under the original cable, either to force charging or to get help from the chassis bank.. with the relay open I think the little battery is isolated from all other things Monaco, should we need to jump it, if we can get the slide out, lol.  I used hi tech 1/4in foam board from a craft store under the battery and in 2 wide strips behind to protect the bolt heads..

And then we resolved and upgraded the solar issues, 400w now, love that they do not need the battery switches to be on..

Hope this addresses your concerns

The concerns were generic as in “Jump Starting” without removing the charging line or making sure that all disconnects are turned off…to prevent arcing and or damaging the MH’s electrical system.

The other concern was that before folks use your solution, they need to fully understand that the issue may not (probably isn’t) in  the lack of Starting capacity from the 1900 CCA that is at your disposal.  The issue is that Monaco never tested or did any research.  Simply  upgrading or replacing the generator starting cables as you did and connecting to the chassis stud, fed by the 4/0 cable should have been sufficient.  I’ve run this by one of our expert electronics guys and he agrees.  He has no issues with the puny #2 AWG OEM cables as he doesn’t have the extreme cold starting issues.  But had you just replaced the #2 AWG with 2/0….neither would you.  In fact, you have already proven that even an upgrade from #2 AWG to your 1/0 works.  You only have 25% (550 CCA) battery….and the chassis stud hooked up to the 1900 CCA CHASSIS would have easily spun it….with almost 4 times the CCA.