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Rewiring Generator to Chassis battery bank


Steve P
Go to solution Solved by Tom Cherry,

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Guest Ray Davis
30 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

I need to figure out how to connect a combiner/isolator. 

Does your 10k have its own alternator? 

I don't see why you couldn't incorporate a Blue seas ML ACR combiner, the same way many of us have used it to eleminate the complicated Bird & solenoid system to charge and combine our chassis & coach batteries.

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Guest Ray Davis

You have a 10k?  I have a puny 7.5,  wish I had a 10k, I could install a 3rd air cond.   I've got over 6k hrs & it runs great so can't complain.  Saying that may jinxs me, oh my

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4 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

You have a 10k?  I have a puny 7.5,  wish I had a 10k, I could install a 3rd air cond.   I've got over 6k hrs & it runs great so can't complain.  Saying that may jinxs me, oh my

I'll trade ya my 10K for your "puny 7.5", and your compression brake 😁!!

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2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Got room to mount it in front of the generator?

Yes, there’s room for it up there, but I’d have to fabricate some type of mount for it.  There’s a heat shield bracket above the exhaust pipe.  It has a nice shelf that would hold a battery nicely.   The positive and negative connectors are right next to it.  
I might fire up the generator and see how hot that bracket gets.   I bet it’s not any hotter than the engine compartment of a car.  

1 hour ago, Ray Davis said:

Does your 10k have its own alternator? 

I don't see why you couldn't incorporate a Blue seas ML ACR combiner, the same way many of us have used it to eleminate the complicated Bird & solenoid system to charge and combine our chassis & coach batteries.

I’m not sure if I have an alternator.  I’ll look this week and check.

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Guest Ray Davis
8 hours ago, Ivan K said:

If you really wanted to spend few grand, it can be added. It's just money 😢 They are pretty proud of it.

Yeah Ben,  go for it.  We could really make a thread out it.   I think Brad lives up there somewhere, Ya'll could take turns holding the camera.

They are proud of everything nowadays,  I go to buy something & suddenly realize I shoulda bought that last year.                                                    Still the best country,  look around where else are you going to?  Even to visit.

How bout them Cowboys!!!  Still gotta beat a top team though.  CeeDee Lamb and a one handed catch with a defender hanging on the other arm, how can he do that,  its crazy.  This man is a superstar. Didn't care for him much when he was at OU ( Oklahoma ) & not at UT but now I love to watch # 88.     Sorry, got carried away.

Cee Dee Lamb Face

Edited by Ray Davis
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12 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Does your 10k have its own alternator? 

I don't see why you couldn't incorporate a Blue seas ML ACR combiner, the same way many of us have used it to eleminate the complicated Bird & solenoid system to charge and combine our chassis & coach batteries.

Based on what has been posted here and personal reading, the 10KW Onan Quiet Diesels don’t have or Monaco didn’t use the model with a built in alternator.  

I pulled the owners manuals for the 8, 10 & 12.5 CURRENT models.  My ipad won’t display the entire page, but the 10 is the first and the 12.5 is the second.

However, some owners like Sig’s wirh 12.5 in the earlier years, have, I think, reported alternators….so, pulling the specs or manual for them is the only way to know.

I’m waiting for Ben to do the obvious and cheapest and install a higher amp rated cable from his PCB up front to the Genny, off his 200 A fused Chassis Stud.  He will need to do the same for the ground.  But the cables, assuming he makes them up will be less then $75, last time I bought…assuming he has a hydraulic crimper.

That will add maybe 50% more JUICE.  When he switched, in the RRB, his Genny, that gave him a better source of CCA, but the real limiting factor….the cable from the rear to the front is undersized based on all the research and postings here and elsewhere.

Ben….GO FOR IT.  YES….this would be a NEW topic…but based on all the reports and the anecdotal information, the cabling is the most likely issue….but it does NOT impact but maybe 10% of the units….based on my ROUGH “cranium stats”.  The majority don’t have issues.  

This would be a great white paper….just need a knowledge person….hint….BEN.  Seriously, my hunch, based on all the posts and such…

There is a minute high resistance connection that may be intermittent on some rigs….but there are way more 10 & 12.5 Kw owners that are cranking off the Chassis that never have an issue…

So, in Ben’s case, he has a 200 A fused chassis stud up front.  Bumping up the cable size will utilize that capacity (the Genny start is one size lower) and therefore deliver more amps from a cranking battery….and the ground cable would also need to be upgraded….but both are short runs…

 

IMG_1060.png

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9 hours ago, Ivan K said:

If you really wanted to spend few grand, it can be added. It's just money 😢 They are pretty proud of it.

Yeah, the one owner that I know of that installed it on his ISC used takeoff parts, so he saved quite a few $$.

The wire harness to the drivers side armrest is already in place. I checked.

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Guest Ray Davis
8 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

in Ben’s case, he has a 200 A fused chassis stud

Sounds like Ben, a fused stud.

I think it was Dan D aka dandick66 who wanted help.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      ☝️

I forgot how to do the fancy trick that does it in blue and sends them a notice.

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43 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Sounds like Ben, a fused stud.

I think it was Dan D aka dandick66 who wanted help.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      ☝️

 

I was planning on looking into this mod in the spring!

'IF', I have a 4/0 cable running from the RRB to the FRB, I was going to take my gen starter power from there.

But, Dan say's his 2012 model only has a 2/0 cable running there, so there would be no point.

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Guest Ray Davis
9 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

I was planning on looking into this mod in the spring!

'IF', I have a 4/0 cable running from the RRB to the FRB, I was going to take my gen starter power from there.

But, Dan say's his 2012 model only has a 2/0 cable running there, so there would be no point.

Wouldn't a battery near the gen provide that extra boost simply because it's close and all the while being charged along with the other batteries?

Why worry about isolation unless it's for boondocking fears of running all of the batteries down & not being able to start the gen?

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31 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

I was planning on looking into this mod in the spring!

'IF', I have a 4/0 cable running from the RRB to the FRB, I was going to take my gen starter power from there.

But, Dan say's his 2012 model only has a 2/0 cable running there, so there would be no point.

1 hour ago, Ray Davis said:

Sounds like Ben, a fused stud.

I think it was Dan D aka dandick66 who wanted help.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      ☝️

I forgot how to do the fancy trick that does it in blue and sends them a notice.

@96 EVO @dandick66
 

Ben,

Since you pulled a print and I pulled a print…..here is what I show for the 2009, presumably for your 2008.

The Generator run from the RRB is a 1/0.  That is what I think you swapped to the chassis.

The 200A Chassis to PCB cable is a 2/0.  I KNOW that one is correct.

My original recommendation, buried somewhere….with some tech specs…see page 1….  You only have the “FLA” Potential, for 50 ft of 1/0 to the Generator of 350 A.  BUT, your 2/0 cable has the FLA of only 450 A. So, you gain, in theory, 29%.  OK, you will probably need say 20 ft of 2/0 cable….so, maybe you get a 25% increase.  Running, to me….and MY opinion…if I had issues…. The 2/0 (you could do 3/0)…..from the chassis stud..and also using the better CCA Chassis….that is a good value….plus, an easy fix.  YES….a 4/0 would be better….we don’t have that….unless you add a 400 A ANL fuse to the chassis buss and then run a 4/0 to the genny.

You may disagree….but adding 25% more CCA is easy and cheap.

NOW, Ben….you looked at the prints.  Going out on a limb, it NOW sounds like the newer Diplomats have the same or similar wiring as our Camelots.  A 2/0 Chassis stud.  Odds are, if you go back to that High Current Diolomat print…a 1/0 cable….just like ours.  So, @dandick66 could do the same thing.

@Ray Davis

To comment on Ben’s “extra” battery…..there are 2 more ways.

First, there is a 2/0 cable going to Ben’s (same as mine) FRB.  Two in fact.  Chassis and Genny.  It would be “relatively” easy to run a 2/0 charging cable from either one to a “standard Automobile Cranking battery”.  With our BiRD’s….it will stay charged.  That sucker will deliver enough juice. Go back to page 1.  The only specs or information we have there, since no one has measured the genny cranking current is in my post.

Second….for Ben’s consideration.  Ben, you want MORE amps.   Buy a Blue Seas switch. Get the bigger one…500A.  Buy the 2 battery selector.  Run 2/0 from each stud.  Then run a 3/0 or a 4/0 to the genny.  Swap out the ground…

Put that switch in the 1+2 position, you get power from both banks.  You could crank a MONSTER engine.  Overkill. Yes.  Reliability….100%.  

BUT….NOW….the banks are TIED togehter.  The BiRD control is NOT needed.  Frank and I jumper it for storage. There are a LOT of 2006 Dynasty (and up) running around with the Big Boy jumpered…..why….the #6 RRB (Intellitec made) failed. The cost for repair is now close to $400.  Lots of folks said NO WAY.  Some actually install a Blue Seas Single switch and can “unjumper” if they desire.

I started this post 3 hours ago….and there were 3 replies….so, this is the synopsis…..including the rehash of the tech data on page 1 that mY have been “overlooked”.

 

 

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Guest Ray Davis

 I recall it was Les Stallings installing a battery at his gen.  He had a Signature so it was probably able to charge the battery.   Anyway, he made his seem very simple.

Ole Les bought that Prevost and put us down.  Sold his estate and moved into town.   One of those RV communities in Tenn. with a dedicated garage for the coach.

 

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24 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

 I recall it was Les Stallings installing a battery at his gen.  He had a Signature so it was probably able to charge the battery.   Anyway, he made his seem very simple. 

Quite possibly!

Ivan's Sig came with the 12.5K with alternator.

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Really, as Ben says, it is simple....IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO Do the "easy" fix....as in..  Run the 2/0 cable from the front run bay chassis stud.  Les Stallings was a unique individual...a Mechanical Engineer like Fred White.  He is in the Monacoer's "unofficial" HOF for a post...

If you are confused and cannot bleed off the vacuum in your TOAD in order to successfully install the portable Brake Buddy system, perhaps you should consider another hobby.. and NOT owning a DP MH.

The Colonel and Fred let that one GO..or stay posted.....and I still chuckle at the remembrance of it...

YES, Les did install a battery...and just hooked it up to his 12.5.  Some of the 12.5's...and I have NO IDEA WHICH ONES, were the older and more "deluxe" or higher grade Onan Quiet Diesel 12.5 and had an alternator.  

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Guest Ray Davis
1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

He is in the Monacoer's "unofficial" HOF for a post...

I need some help with HOF 

I don't recall the brake buddy incident but I do like a chuckle if you want to fill me in.  Sounds like something to do with power brakes.

 

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Interesting stuff, as new owners of a 2006 42ft Dynasty, kept in remote outside storage, we had to learn quickly.. we now have a group 26 batt, 500+ cca in an amazon tray attached to the brackets holding the frt of the gennie slide, a chinese amazon acr is held by one of the 6mm screws onto  the top of the gen cover, this relay is slick, has 2 volt meters and a combining function. The position was determined by the reach of the original +ve feed  to the gen. New 1/0 cables go to the gen +ve and -ve terminals and another to the, new acr, which has a small ground wire to the new battery. Solar charging in storage(400w)keeps things happy with battery switches off, (Big Boy, that we have just had to clean, is not energised, v good) but voltage not high enough to charge the new battery, but driving from the alternator does fine.. early days, but so far we are happy with this.. gen start is immediate..

First post to share good things, in Cape Henlopen SP DE, starting a slow drive down the E Coast to winter in FL..

Regards

Laura and Trevor

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