Jump to content

ENG COMM FAILURE - 2007 HR Imperial - HELP Fixing


Terrym
Go to solution Solved by Terrym,

Recommended Posts

I have a 2007 Holiday Rambler Imperial with an ISL engine. I was trying to start my generator and was holding down the battery boost switch with the engine running when the engine died with ENG COMM FAIURE and check engine light. I have looked all over for a fuse (I read about 2 30 amp fuses but can’t find them   I looked in the control box in the engine compartment and no 30 fuse. Ali with the key on on lights come on in that fuse box. 
need help. Stander boondocking in Quartszite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I seem to recall two 30A? circuit breakers that look like small relays (small metal rectangular "cans") in the FRB on one of the Monaco Boxes (Box 1 or Box 2).   I apologize for being so vague, but if you're stuck and checking anything and everything this might be a place to look. 

Good luck,

- bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Solution

Ok I fixed it. In my engine bay there is a box with fuses and solenoids. I found 5 amp fuse labeled ign I replaced it and engine now starts. 
thanks for the replies 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Tom Cherry changed the title to ENG COMM FAILURE - 2007 HR Imperial - HELP Fixing
  • 1 month later...

Did yours also indicate an "engine com failure",or it just would not start?

My engine turns over but does not start and the guages swing wildly back and forth. I took the BIG BOY apart and cleaned and polished the contacts as I had an almost 2 volt differential between each terminal. not sure where to check next. I also checked the 30 A Ign fuse. I'm at a loss. I'm in Why, AZ so there isn't much here. Any help and guidance is very sincerely appreciated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I pulled into the park on the 2nd of Feb. I had not even tried to start it untill yesterday afternoon. I'm not sure if this contributed to this or not, I did not disconnect the umbilical cord for the toad. We had some pretty heavy down pours. the other day the brake indicator light for the AF one brake system was on. I disconnected the cord and the light went out. I checked the but there was no short in the cord. That was the only thing I did in the engine bay except to check all my fluids. Yesterday I opened rear electrical box after it wouldn't start and found the voltage discrepency at the Big Boy. I also noticed that I had no indicator lights on any of the boards at that time, however after I R&Red the Big Boy i now have only one indicator light on. I don't recall witch one but it is on the board that has the 30 a ignition fuse which i have  checked and is good. I hope this helps jacjaw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, the plot thickens.

Not sure if the big boy has anything to do with starting but it does on keeping the batteries charged.  I believe it also ties both batteries together when you use the battery boost switch, did you try that?  What is the chassis battery voltage, was the engine turning over at a decent speed?  How cold is it where you are at?

Do you have a rear start option, try starting from there, I believe that would bypass most of the other circuits.   

 

Edited by jacwjames
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My take….the BIG BOY has nothing to do with starting.  Do you mean that the engine will NOT TURN OVER?  If so, then the chassis battey may be down…and the Big Boy is not working. However, the Big Boy is controlled by a proprietary #6 board.  If it died….and it is a known issue, then you have NO BIRD or BiDirectional charging.  
 

You should measure the voltage on both sides of the Big Boy to ground….each stud.  That is the same as measuring the battery voltage at each battery.  Now when the Big Boy is humming and hot to the touch…that means the Big Boy is working.  No HUM or no HOT….either the coil is toast or the control board is toast.

ONCE it is energized and hot and humming….measure the voltage on each stud to ground….  Then measure across the studs.  If the contacts are OK, then you see or should see less than 0.1 - 0.2 VDC.  That means the contacts are clean.

NOW….if you just want to start….turn OFF both battery switches.  Remove shore and don’t run the genny.  Put an automotive Jumper cable between the House positive and the Chassis positive….turn back on the disconnect switches….turn on the 50 amp or start your genny.  Let it run for maybe 30 minutes….that recharges the chassis….start the engine….should start….but if not….then there are other issues.  If it started….let it fun for maybe another 30 minutes….then turn off the 50 amp or genny. Shut down the engine…turn off the disconnects…remove the Jumper cable. Turn back on the disconnects….should start…

You can troubleshoot the BIRD system…

@Frank McElroy is the expert on the BIRD system on the newer Dynasty/Imperial and up.  Do the above….and PM him offline for more help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did not try the boost switch as the the engine turns over fine. Temp is in the60s-70s yes tried rear start. no change. 13.4 v

Thank you Tom. The engine turns over fine and the voltage is 13+ v . I rebuilt the Big Boy.

Just wondering about the indicator lights on the C Bds in the rear box. it's been awhile since I had been in that box, but isn't most of those indicator lights supposed to on when the ingnition switch is on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, George L said:

I did not try the boost switch as the the engine turns over fine. Temp is in the60s-70s yes tried rear start. no change. 13.4 v

Thank you Tom. The engine turns over fine and the voltage is 13+ v . I rebuilt the Big Boy.

Just wondering about the indicator lights on the C Bds in the rear box. it's been awhile since I had been in that box, but isn't most of those indicator lights supposed to on when the ingnition switch is on?

Mine are lit up even without the ignition on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK!!!!! Got it  Is was the 5amp ign. fuse. thank you all that have responded Sometimes you just have to go in another direction then come back to it. I very much appreciate the input from such talented people 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, George L said:

OK!!!!! Got it  Is was the 5amp ign. fuse. thank you all that have responded Sometimes you just have to go in another direction then come back to it. I very much appreciate the input from such talented people 

I was looking at your prints.  Had just found the PRINT of that rear run box.  The R1 and R7 are the heart of the engine.  They control all the "what needs to work" to start.  Ignition signal...such as the 5 amp fuse...as well as the Neutral Safety Start switch (it won't start if that is bad), etc.

SO, always CHECK the fuses or the circuit breakers on R1 and R7...

Layman's instructions...

Rear RUN box - Label and fuses 2007 Dynasty & Imperial and UP - BOARD 7.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...