Larry T Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Good morning everybody, I went to change the fuel filters on my 2003 Monaco Diplomat with the 330 ISC Cummins. The manual shows 2 separate fuel filters with different part numbers. I purchased 1 of each NAPA Gold 3242 fuel filter and NAPA Gold 3422 fuel filter/water separator. When I began to change the filters I found that both filters were the exact same (NAPA Gold 3422 fuel filter/water separator). Both have the same receiver so either someone put the wrong filter on or there may be an upgrade that finds its better to run to fuel filter/water separators. Or, I'm reading the wrong manual. Please provide some guidance if you can. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDCrow Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Manual is right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Different micron ratings. 10 micron (3242) first in the path from tank , 2 micron in front of the high pressure pump. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Believe my '07 ISL calls for a 10 micron FS, and a 5 micron FF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry T Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 (edited) I'm sorry, I just checked again and they appeared to be the same but aren't. the passenger side separator has an electrical connector. The filter on the driver side behind the AC Coil is a Parker RACOR S3201P fuel/water separator without an electric connector. I'm going back to the original part numbered filters. Thanks everyone!! Edited March 5 by Larry T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry T Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 (edited) GEEZ - I thought I had this right but I'm not comfortable with it. I'm uploading 3 pictures so you can see the issue. 1 is the driver side behind the rear tire where 1 filter is located. 2 is the old filter and the new one installed. 3 is the filter on the passenger side in front of the starter. both old filters are fuel water separators. I thought the RACOR was the wrong filter but it has the original undercoating on it so I'm thinking it's factory original and never been changed. Is it possible I haven't found the location of the actual fuel filter and there are 3?. Thanks for helping sort this out. Edited March 5 by Larry T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Can you tell if the second filter is a Racor filter?? If it was the OEM it would have been Cummins. On my coach the primary filter was located on the drivers side at the front of the engine (pulley end). It was the same as what you've changed but mine did not have a wiring harness attached. The second filter is located on the passenger side, pulley end of the engine. Originally my fuel was pulled through the primary filter by the the lift pump and then went to the secondary filter. If it is the original it wouldn't be the first time someone didn't change a filter, they are sometimes concealed to a point you don't see them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Wow! 20yrs is a pretty good life for a primary WS filter!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 I made similar error and it cost me a tow and shop time. While I have a different engine (CAT C7) i too have two filters, a 10 micron pre-filter/water separator filter and a smaller secondary 2 micron filter. The threaded posts for each are a different diameter so you can only thread the correct filter on the correct post. Before you remove either filter check on the secondary filter housing for a manual priming pump. This may not be on all but if it is you need to make sure to prime the new filters, pulling diesel through both until they are full. Trying to start the engine without first fully priming the filters and fuel line can result in air being pushed into the line and eventually into the cylinder resulting in lost compression and then the engine will not start until the lines are bled, most likely in a shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry T Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 (edited) Thank you jacwJames! There is another fuel filter in front of the oil filter but it a wf2074 coolant filter.... Problem still not solved...sigh...lol. Edited March 5 by Larry T Issue continues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry T Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 Aaaaand the search continues. The filter in front of the oil filter is a WP2074 Coolant Filter.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 17 hours ago, Larry T said: Aaaaand the search continues. The filter in front of the oil filter is a WP2074 Coolant Filter.... Yeah, I didn't think you would have 3 fuel filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Larry T Posted March 7 Author Solution Share Posted March 7 I turns out that I have the CAP system and only one engine filter that's a fuel/water separator. The additional filter behind the condenser may have been stock or an upgrade. Either way, it's also a fuel/water seperator. The biggest take away is DO NOT believe the manual when it says don't prime the filters. I had a "no start" all morning even though I followed the procedures. Finally, I removed the filters, filled them with Deisal fuel, cycled the key twice and it started right up....LESSON LEARNED! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 Yeah, they can be difficult if you don't pre-fill the filters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr046 Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 11 hours ago, Larry T said: I turns out that I have the CAP system and only one engine filter that's a fuel/water separator. The additional filter behind the condenser may have been stock or an upgrade. Either way, it's also a fuel/water seperator. The biggest take away is DO NOT believe the manual when it says don't prime the filters. I had a "no start" all morning even though I followed the procedures. Finally, I removed the filters, filled them with Deisal fuel, cycled the key twice and it started right up....LESSON LEARNED! Your lift pump should have pulled fuel from the tank for 30 sec and filled the filters. After 30 sec the lift pump shuts off. Hence the multiple key on-key off sequences. I can't imagine your lift pump not working, but . . . . The CAPS pump is a high dollar item, and it sucks fuel all the way from the tank. You don't want it to fail. For that reason several of us installed an auxiliary fuel pump such as Air Dog or FASS. The Air Dog is less expensive while the FASS pre-filters the fuel and cycles it through the fuel tank at 65 gal/min (aka fuel polishing). The fuel to the CAPS pump is now pressurized which eliminates any possible air bubbles (another really bad thing) and increases the longevity of the CAPS. I used the kit for the RAM pickup. There's still some custom work but the kit has many handy pieces. Something to consider . . . . . Good luck, - bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry T Posted March 7 Author Share Posted March 7 The lift pump is working although I'm not certain how well. I'm going to remove the intake line and look for algae. There's a video describing this issue which restricts the pump which lessons or stops the flow. I cycled the key 10 to 15 times and when I pulled the filter it was only 1/4 full so I think it may have a restriction. I'm going to look into the Air Dog or FASS. Thanks CBR 046 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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