2008 Diplomat 40SKQ Wiring Diagram

[Rthomp1122]

I have been searching the different forms for a wiring diagram for my coach. I'm trying to trace out the GFI circuits that feeds the TV and plugs in the kitchen.  any help would be appreciated. Thanks,

[Frank McElroy]

Although we don't have a 2008 wiring diagram in our Downloads, the 2007 wiring diagram should be close.  Click on the title to get an option to download all pages in one file.

 

[Gary M]

55 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Although we don't have a 2008 wiring diagram in our Downloads, the 2007 wiring diagram should be close.  Click on the title to get an option to download all pages in one file.

 

Frank I have 114 schematics titled 08 Diplomat but not sure if they are truly for the 08. Dates on drawings are early to late 07. I’ll have to go to my computer to upload them if you want to compare to the 07.

[Frank McElroy]

2 hours ago, Gary M said:

Frank I have 114 schematics titled 08 Diplomat but not sure if they are truly for the 08. Dates on drawings are early to late 07. I’ll have to go to my computer to upload them if you want to compare to the 07.

Gary, thank you for sending me your schematics.  I compared all them to the 2007 set and what you have is identical to what we are calling 2007.  The only differences are that the 2007 set has 3 pages for the index and your set has a cover page saying that the set is for 2008.  So, basically the 2007 set of wiring diagrams should also apply to 2008.  I'll update the file description.

[MyronTruex]

120V 40SKQ.pdf

I bought the factory CD when we bought our coach new. I have about 7 GB of information I can give you a link to. You may want to delete some folders when done. I have gathered information over the years and may files have comments and notations. 

 

The 40 SKQ has a gfi next to the kitchen sink on the side next to the sofa. There are two breakers on the Inverter/converter that feeds various circuits. One controls the microwave. There is a GFI on the floor in the hall mounted on the small vacuum cleaner closet. I believe there is one in the bathroom as well.

 

[Rthomp1122]

Thanks for the response. My problem is the GFIC plug in the Hallway. It kept blowing so I replaced it and still kept blowing.  There are two runs downstream from it.  I disconnected both then connected one at a time. The run down the driver's side of the coach to the to the cabinet above the driver is good.  The other run I found goes to the TV and plugs under the kitchen Cabinet the goes? I disconnected the wires that go downstream from the kitchen plugs and checked with an OWM meter and still see a small short.  But I'm not sure where it goes. All the other plugs are working. 

[jacwjames]

You might consider buying a Fox and Hound wire tracer.  You should be able to follow the direction of the wire.  Don't buy a cheap one, mine works but its not the best, I needed it in a hurry so bought one from Harbor Freight.  Amazon has a good selection  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Fox+and+hound&crid=3ONDQVJ4NGNV8&sprefix=fox+and+houn%2Caps%2C684&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

 

I ended up having dead short in my rear bedroom circuit that also fed the bathroom and basement.  The wires from the breaker box went into the ceiling.  I was able to trace the wire in the ceiling back to the rear outside wall in the engine compartment when then went into the bedroom under the bed and to the outlets next to the bed.  Somewhere between the breaker box and there I had a short.  I as able rearrange the wiring, abandoned the portion in the ceiling and then back toward the rest of the circuit.  It was a real head scratcher, both finding the locaiton of the short but figuring out a solution.  Couldn't have done it without the wire tracer. 

[Tom Cherry]

10 minutes ago, Rthomp1122 said:

Thanks for the response. My problem is the GFIC plug in the Hallway. It kept blowing so I replaced it and still kept blowing.  There are two runs downstream from it.  I disconnected both then connected one at a time. The run down the driver's side of the coach to the to the cabinet above the driver is good.  The other run I found goes to the TV and plugs under the kitchen Cabinet the goes? I disconnected the wires that go downstream from the kitchen plugs and checked with an OWM meter and still see a small short.  But I'm not sure where it goes. All the other plugs are working. 

OK...here's my take...based on the info above.

You have the SPLIT system, most likely, in the GFCI.  There are TWO circuit coming from the Inverter.  ONE is for for the Microwave.  That is dedicated and wired directly from the Inverter to the receptacle in the cabinet above the microwave.  

The OTHER circuit is for the REST of the MH.  If you look (and this is from memory....check the drawings) at the BACK of the GFCI and read the labels on the terminals.  There is a LINE IN..  That is a single Black/White from a piece of Romex.  There is PROBABLY TWO on the other end.  Both are connected to the LOAD (out).  One goes to the OUTLETS...the ones near the sinks.  CODE requires them. The FRONT outlet and the "ICEMAKER" outlet behind the refrigerator...and MAYBE the TV (Depends) is the OTHER ones.

OK....here is what you do.

FIRST...  Order a NEW GFCI....or find one LOCALLY.  ONLY use the Leviton and Hubbell or Eaton Wiring Devices.  It is a 20 AMP UNIT...  I used to work for Cooper Industries and they owned Cooper Wiring Devices....Cooper sold to Eaton.  I have visited at least 3 of the Wiring Devices plants and talked to their tech and design folks (Natural curiosity)....so I am partial to them. The OLDER they get...the worse. WHAT you see as a small "SHORT" may not be enough to TRIP a NEW GFCI.  THEY AGE POORLY....LOL

OK....here is the backstory.  Your Refrigerator (Residential or Gas) has heater elements in the ICEMAKER.  They start to leak as time goes on.  NOW THIS IS NOT A LETHAL or dangerous situation.  Just a fact of life.  The ceramic insulating material eventually absorbs microscopic particles or water or vapor....and the GFCI gets "FAKED OUT".

SO....do this.  When you pull out the GFCI for replacement...  Temporarily WIRE nut Black and White from LINE to ONE of the pieces of ROMEX.  THEN TEST.  You want to identify the KITCHEN (near the sinks) outlets.  Mark that one GFCI .  NOW, do the other one.  ODDS ARE....that will be the ICEMAKER.  Mark that REFRIGERATOR.  HOPEFULLY....and there were SOME....you have the Refrigerator on ONE piece of Romex and the GFCI Required outlets on the OTHER...  Assuming so....

THEN, when you reinstall the GFCI, you put the REFRIGERATOR on the LINE SIDE of the GFCI.  Then the GFCI (Outlets) wire goes to the LOAD.  BE CAREFUL READ THE LABELS  The NEWER GFCI may be reversed.  The Building Inspectors started wanting the GROUND PIN on the top so if a metal cover fell, it did NOT SHORT OUT.  SO, there is a MIXED version.  READ THE LABELS FOR LINE AND LOAD and wire accordingly.

NOW....that SHOULD solve the problem.  IF NOT....at least you KNOW WHICH Piece of ROMEX and WHICH ones are impacted.  I HATE THESE Mobile Home outlets.  You may have to start changing...  to RESIDENTIAL TYPE...

That's it....

 

OK....

[Rthomp1122]

Thanks Tom, that's a lot of info! I unplugged the Icemaker, and it works! The previous owner removed the Ice basket from the icemaker because they didn't use it and lost it. So, until I find one, we won't be using it either.  (anyone have a line on an Ice basket/auger for a Dometic NDA140?). Checking the specks on the regenerator it should be only drawing .5 amps.  I'll be doing some more testing after this d*** rain stops.  

Thanks again!

[Tom Cherry]

No need to test or fool with the refrigerator.  If there is a leak in the heater in the mold….it will work fine on a dedicated NON GFCI cicuit.  Read somewhere that 50% of home refrigerators have a NON LETHAL LEAK….and would trip a GFCI,  BUT,,by code….their on Dedicated NON GFCI breakers.

NEED to. get NEW GFCI.  THEN wire nut and identify the two branch (HOPEFULLY) circuits.  Then put refrigerator icemaker circuit, which runs off GFCI, on the LINE side.  That might fix your issues.  My 2009 DOM 1402 tripped the OEM GFCI.  REPLACED in 2013….and rewired or reconfigured it.  Nary a bobble..and RES Samsung runs like a champ…

[MyronTruex]

The hallway GFI feeds the built in vacuum cleaner in the basement. Unplug the vacuum.

As for the refer. There were just too many issues with mine over the years. Went through at least three ice makers, multiple failures of heating elements, and other issues along the way.

We have a nice residential in place and have loved it for about five years. It is so deep it is hard to reach the back. Ice starts dropping in less than ten minutes and fills a massive container. 

I did not connect the refer to the inverter because we have the 2000W modified just as you have. The temps only begin to climb after about four hours and a few minutes stopping for lunch and running the generator or just running the gennie for a couple of hours along the way keeps things fine.

The AC circuits can drive you crazy. They hide junction boxes buried under cables inside the cabinet next to the fireplace. 

And yes, a Fox and Hound is really helpful. 

We have owned ours since new and I have done so many modifications just the index would fill three pages. 

I supplied Frank with the files from my factory CD as well as a ton of other files. He is probably sorry he asked for them. 

If you would like a copy, let me know. You need a good wi-fi speed because there are about 7GB of files. 

 

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, MyronTruex said:

The hallway GFI feeds the built in vacuum cleaner in the basement. Unplug the vacuum.

As for the refer. There were just too many issues with mine over the years. Went through at least three ice makers, multiple failures of heating elements, and other issues along the way.

We have a nice residential in place and have loved it for about five years. It is so deep it is hard to reach the back. Ice starts dropping in less than ten minutes and fills a massive container. 

I did not connect the refer to the inverter because we have the 2000W modified just as you have. The temps only begin to climb after about four hours and a few minutes stopping for lunch and running the generator or just running the gennie for a couple of hours along the way keeps things fine.

The AC circuits can drive you crazy. They hide junction boxes buried under cables inside the cabinet next to the fireplace. 

And yes, a Fox and Hound is really helpful. 

We have owned ours since new and I have done so many modifications just the index would fill three pages. 

I supplied Frank with the files from my factory CD as well as a ton of other files. He is probably sorry he asked for them. 

If you would like a copy, let me know. You need a good wi-fi speed because there are about 7GB of files. 

 

I FORGOT about the Basement Vacuum.  BY CODE....that outlet is considered as an "OUTDOOR".  My Camelot has TWO outlets in a bay.  One on the Driver's side is the Vacuum.  There is a similar outlet on the Curb (Passenger) side of that bay.  THOSE outlets run off the GFCI.  As they are OUTDOOR and one could be using a power tool out there.

5 hours ago, Rthomp1122 said:

Thanks Tom, that's a lot of info! I unplugged the Icemaker, and it works! The previous owner removed the Ice basket from the icemaker because they didn't use it and lost it. So, until I find one, we won't be using it either.  (anyone have a line on an Ice basket/auger for a Dometic NDA140?). Checking the specks on the regenerator it should be only drawing .5 amps.  I'll be doing some more testing after this d*** rain stops.  

Thanks again!

OK...  I need to readdress this... I answered about 10 of these this afternoon and my brain was FRIED....so let's DO IT AGAIN...

If you FOUND TWO RUNS, on the GFCI....then you have the better system.  The 2007's had a funky system.  There were TWO GFCI's.  NOT GOOD...but you have two runs and ONE GFCI.

Replace the GFCI...on General principles.  AGE Takes it toll....look at my body...  LOL...

Next.  Use wire nuts and temporarily hook up the LINE to each.  The ONE that feeds the Refrigerator ICEMAKER is where the problem is.  NOW...  MOVE that line up to the LINE SIDE of the NEW GFCI.  That will fix it.  Your ICEMAKER has a SMALL LEAK.  TOTALLY (I am an EX Safety Director and taught the NEW OSHA Electrical Regs) SAFE.  When you put the ICEMAKER circuit on the LINE...it becomes a Dedicated Circuit.  You will NEVER see any issues.  The leak in the icemaker is miniscule.  You MAY, and as I said....I had the DOMETIC, have a defrost coil in there..  ONCE you move the ICEMAKER Circuit to the LINE....DRIVE ON.

You can replace the ICEMAKER...  Many USED to buy them from LOWES...they were universal.  Start GOOGLING...  There are or is a LOT of cross referenced parts for the 1402....that is...  IF YOU WANT the ICEMAKER.  IF NOT....go inside and unplug it on the inside....not hard to do. I included the NEW manual for the Dometic.  You can also find the PARTS list....and get the number.  I replaced mine with a Samsung...so I don't have all the old information.

THAT'S IT.  Problem solved...  NOW, you can start on other adventures...

NEW & Released Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf