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ME2012 Inverter/Charger inop. Remote Magnum monitor says “DC overload” fault


biloxi_dad
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I have a 2005 HR Ambassador which I brought home to clean up for spring/summer travel.  I keep it in covered storage and periodically run it and Genny  to keep batteries charged and operational over the winter.  When I brought it home, applied 120V shore power to charge house batteries, run fantastic fan and residental refrigerator while cleaning.  Everything has been working fine all morning.  Left for a few hours and came back to fine remote monitor indicating “DC overload” fault.  I shut down all power, checked 12V flooded battery voltage to be 12.5V.  Checked charger/inverter and all 3 circuit breakers were set, but I reset the two output breakers just in case. The green LED on the unit was out indicating it was not working.  I was running the charger and inverting option at the same time.  Could I have fried the unit?

Left it over night thinking it could be an overheat issue (although never had that problem before.  I checked my four 6 volt deep cycle batteries to ensure they were not low on fluid and all were fine.  All connections seem tight and no corrosion. I applied shore power and checked again this morning and still showing “DC overload”.  Removed shore power and applied genset power and got same result.  Is there another circuit breaker I’m not checking or is the charger/inverter needing replacement (manufacture date: 3d qtr 2004)?

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Check the push in circuit breaker on your inverter.  The inverter is mounted to the basement ceiling in the main basement compartment.  

If that doesn't work,. p[perform an inverter reset.  

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15 minutes ago, biloxi_dad said:

   I was running the charger and inverting option at the same time.  Could I have fried the unit?

 

Nope!

Many owners never turn off 'inverting'!

When plugged into shore power, inverting is automatically disabled.

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Thanks for the Owner manual for the ME2012 inverter/charger.  I have one already, but the one you provided was much updated (2017) compared to mine (2005).  Not sure how much is valid to my older unit.  In my manual, it does mention resetting the unit, but doesn’t tell how.  I have done the factory reset option on the remote, but no luck getting the charger to operate.

As stated in my original request for assistance, I have checked and reset the breakers on the inverter/charger.

I have removed power from the unit by opening the 120V breaker on the main panel in the back bedroom for the inverter and connecting the 12V battery bank to the inverted/charger unit.  When I close the 120V breaker and power is applied to the unit, I can hear what sounds like a unit under the kitchen power up (humming) for about 5-10 seconds.  Then the humming stops and in the past that’s when the inverter/charger would come on according to the remote readout.  I could always hear this when I start the genset and it supplies voltage to the coach.  But now once the hum stops, nothing else happens.  The readout shows current house battery charge and the red”fault” light comes on the remote and it reads DC Overload.  Is it possible that the T Series fuse to the Inverter/Charger is blown?  Would this cause my problem?  This fuse is in the battery bay on the other side of the wall from the Inverter/charger.

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12 hours ago, biloxi_dad said:

Thanks for the Owner manual for the ME2012 inverter/charger.  I have one already, but the one you provided was much updated (2017) compared to mine (2005).  Not sure how much is valid to my older unit.  In my manual, it does mention resetting the unit, but doesn’t tell how.  I have done the factory reset option on the remote, but no luck getting the charger to operate.

As stated in my original request for assistance, I have checked and reset the breakers on the inverter/charger.

I have removed power from the unit by opening the 120V breaker on the main panel in the back bedroom for the inverter and connecting the 12V battery bank to the inverted/charger unit.  When I close the 120V breaker and power is applied to the unit, I can hear what sounds like a unit under the kitchen power up (humming) for about 5-10 seconds.  Then the humming stops and in the past that’s when the inverter/charger would come on according to the remote readout.  I could always hear this when I start the genset and it supplies voltage to the coach.  But now once the hum stops, nothing else happens.  The readout shows current house battery charge and the red”fault” light comes on the remote and it reads DC Overload.  Is it possible that the T Series fuse to the Inverter/Charger is blown?  Would this cause my problem?  This fuse is in the battery bay on the other side of the wall from the Inverter/charger.

Back to basics.  First, here is an older manual.

https://www.bluepacificsolar.com/picture_library/tech-specs/magnum-me-series-installation.pdf

Second.... You MAY have an improper setup on the REMOTE...or your REMOTE is flaky and causing things to change.  SO...here is what I would do.

NO AC or SHORE.  Cover your solar panel or remove the battery from the Solar. Turn OFF the HOUSE Battery switch.  Then Disconnect the House Battery Positive.  Then remove the power (BOTH LEADS) from the Inverter.  Pull or remove the three (I think you have 3) phones lines from the Magnum.  Should be a Batt Temp Sensor.  Remote and Network (that is the AGS if you have one. Let the inverter SIT for around an hour.  That dissipates all internal stored charged.  This is CALLED, by Magnum a HARD Reset (Restart).  DO NOT PLUG BACK IN the Network, Remote or Battery Temperature phone lines.  NONE OF THEM....hen reconnect, in reverse order everything. Restore the AC LAST

NOW...  You need to RESTART the INVERTER.  Hold in the power button for a few seconds.  It will power UP.

OK....as to the cause.... MANY DIFFERENT things.  BUT, clearing out the "electronic gremlins" in the Inverter is the FIRST thing...that Magnum will tell you to do.  They will go through the SOFT restart...but when a repetitive error occurs, we have found it best to just "SHUT 'ER DOWN".  Also Magnum techs say ONE HOUR....not is what is in the manual.

NOW...the Inverter has a "Program" of DEFAULT Parameters.  You are NOW running on this.  They are designed or configured for our MH's.  SO....let it run.  It WILL charge the batteries.  Therefore, NOT having any PHONE lines connected, the Defaults take over.  Let the Batteries charge up.  How long...  Maybe overnight.  Then you can test the next morning.  IF you kill the AC (unplug from shore), then the Inverter will start to invert...there MAY be a flicker and you lose the Microwave clock...this is normal for one of the defaults...  When you do the proper Remote SETUP....the Search Watts is usually turned off.

IF all is well.  Let it run on batteries for a while....and then back to AC....  You KNOW the Inverter is OK...  NEXT....focus on the REMOTE. Here is the FILE that I put together... 

OK....based on the age and rev level of your remote...not ALL the parameters may be there.  SO...plug in the remote.  THEN scroll through the parameters and write down (take a picture?) of the settings.

Start with the SHORE and then go through the setup.  Record for each step.  NOW LET IT RUN...  Turn OFF the AC and watch it come back on when you apply AC again.  It is NORMAL for the Lights NOT to come back on sometimes...  SO, you MIGHT have to push the buttons.

BTW....you can NEVER turn off the INVTERTER from the remote.  In your MH, the Inverter is DIRECTLY connected (via the FUSE...probably a 300 Amp...  Folks THINK you can.  It remains in STANDBY.  The ONLY WAY to turn it off....do the SOFT RESET (hold in the button for almost 30 seconds....it reboots)....AND you have to turn it BACK ON...  the Button or switch will NOT do this.  You CAN turn off the Charger.  Don't ask me....Magnum told me that and said it was a commonly asked question as well as myth...

NOW....start to CHECK the remote.  Go back THROUGH the setup.  Compare what the Remote HAS (Displays) with the Values or Parameters you set.  When a Remote gets flaky or has a fault...it will CHANGE the parameters and all sort of "bugs" come to life.  I had to replace mine.  Many do...  NOW...if all is well and you have no issues....let it RUN for a few days. 

Next...you can plug in the Bat Temp Switch....or you can "MOUNT IT" on the side of the case of the rear battery.  When that Thermocouple shorts out....it does STRANGE things to the system. It is strictly a Thermocouple and when it is mounted on the rear negative terminal....if it shorts....it will cause issues. It is SUPPOSED to be electrically isolated and all there is is a Circuit from it to the Inverter and the inverter is reading the THERMOCOUPLE...  SO, if you hook it up and problems....either discard or mount on the side (to the case) or get a new one.  ODDS ARE, it is NOT the NETWORK cable, assuming you have an AGS.

That's the drill.  Past that....  when it does it again...shoot a picture of the error code.  Call Magnum....they are GREAT.  Tell them WHAT you did and such and they will start to trouble shoot.  BUT, the above is how you clean things up and they suggest you do that....and then call back..

BTW...  The above has "fixed" at least 10 or so inverters that the soft reset and "Gremlins" were in.  IF the remote is BAD...,then replace.  Mine would reset the voltages and also the size of the battery bank...and then the inverter would sometimes NOT come on when AC was off or vice versa when turning off AC and needing Inverted power. I spent several weeks with Magnum on the phone testing...and this is the gist of what I learned...

 

Good Luck....keep us posted. 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Tom.  I don’t have solar, but I’ll be giving the hard reset a try today.  Will respond back with results tomorrow.  Also included a pic of my remote.  The green light on Charge is flashing.  No AGS (auto Genny start?) plug on network input of inverter; only Remote and batt temp)

20240417_111013.jpeg

Edited by biloxi_dad
Add info on solar and AGS plug plus photo of remote
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2 hours ago, biloxi_dad said:

Thanks Tom.  I don’t have solar, but I’ll be giving the hard reset a try today.  Will respond back with results tomorrow.  Also included a pic of my remote.  The green light on Charge is flashing.  No AGS (auto Genny start?) plug on network input of inverter; only Remote and batt temp)

20240417_111013.jpeg

There is a TECH button thqt gives the Magnum folks info.  Do the hard reset.  Nothing hooked up and see it every thing works….then add back in t remote.  Only way to find out if the Inverter is OK and or the remote.  Better to troubleshoot and isolate the problem rather than throwing $$ and buying things that are not broke.

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Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

There is a TECH button thqt gives the Magnum folks info.  Do the hard reset.  Nothing hooked up and see it every thing works….then add back in t remote.  Only way to find out if the Inverter is OK and or the remote.  Better to troubleshoot and isolate the problem rather than throwing $$ and buying things that are not broke.

Tom,

Just hooked DC and AC back up to unit after 2 hrs disconnected.  With AC (shore) applied, green LED flashed once/sec.  When I pressed inverter power, LED went out, but I can hear unit humming.  It’s been on for 10 minutes now and no LED (steady or flashing).  In the past, the Green LED would illuminate steady when charging.  Both Remote and batt temp sensor still disconnected.  Is this correct or should I connect the remote?

Edited by biloxi_dad
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55 minutes ago, biloxi_dad said:

Tom,

Just hooked DC and AC back up to unit after 2 hrs disconnected.  With AC (shore) applied, green LED flashed once/sec.  When I pressed inverter power, LED went out, but I can hear unit humming.  It’s been on for 10 minutes now and no LED (steady or flashing).  In the past, the Green LED would illuminate steady when charging.  Both Remote and batt temp sensor still disconnected.  Is this correct or should I connect the remote?

John and I have talked….and he is going to test the inverter using the default or built in parameters…..and will post the results.

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Hi Tom my Monaco dynasty bishop kongsburg has not got a me-bts fitted it’s got a bmk but no bts I’ve ordered the me-arc controller and want 

to fit the me-bts is it hard to thread the cable through from the battery box to the inverter or is it pre wired in any way I’ve been going through battery banks and I am assuming it’s because I’ve not been treating them correctly with wrong charging regime and no bts and not having the upgrade me-arc 

thanks Stephen D 

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8 minutes ago, Stephen D said:

Hi Tom my Monaco dynasty bishop kongsburg has not got a me-bts fitted it’s got a bmk but no bts I’ve ordered the me-arc controller and want 

to fit the me-bts is it hard to thread the cable through from the battery box to the inverter or is it pre wired in any way I’ve been going through battery banks and I am assuming it’s because I’ve not been treating them correctly with wrong charging regime and no bts and not having the upgrade me-arc 

thanks Stephen D 

You need to talk to one of the following...

@Frank McElroy or @Scotty Hutto

They are more familiar with the BMK.  IF you already have the BMK installed, and by that, I mean PROPERLY....as some were not or folks didn't understand, these guys can help you.

As to the BTS.  That is a matter of PREFERENCE.  It MAY be that the Previous Owner (PO), since you speak in acronyms, decided NOT to use it.  It is nothing more than a Contact Thermocouple.  The ring terminal or the mounting tab is supposed to go to the MOST Rearward Negative on any bank...since you have, probably TWO House banks.

BUT, if there is a failure of the Thermcouple, then it has been known to have issues.  The heat conducting tab is supposed to be "insulated", but it if shorts out, then it could, conceivably, send a GROUND signal to the Inverter from the "Supposed to isolated" leads of the thermostat...on the phone cable connector.

Folks have been known to Duct Tape it or use Zip Ties (daisy chained in to a big loop or use and HVAC Duct Zip tie) and secure it to the side of the battery case.  It will read temps there...probably not as accurately as the metal Negative Plate stud or terminal, but it will NOT, if shorted, give you a potential problem.

As to how to RUN...  Frank has a 2008 Dynasty....maybe he can shoot a picture and PM it to you.

That's about it.  I THINK that Scotty did some setup work on the ME-ACR.  I do NOT have the BMK and I wrote the file on how to setup the OLD and NEW ME-RC...

Hope this helps.

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Thanks Tom I’m just waiting for the me-arc to arrive in the uk and I’m trying to locate a bts 25 from someone who

will ship to uk there’s a couple on eBay but they won’t ship to uk once I’ve got all the kit il be back on to you frank or scotty for help

in fitting and setting up 

thanks again Stephen D

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  • Solution

Tom and All following,

After doing a hard reset on my ME2012 Inverter/Charger, I applied power but it's not charging my batt bank (@12.3 VDC).  I called Magnum Tech Support, and after some additional discussion, the technician told me the unit is not repairable (almost 20 years old) as it's operated almost double it's life expectancy.

I have ordered a new unit from Inverter Supply and upgraded to a pure sine wave inverter (MS2012) as recommended by the Magnum tech representative.  The new unit should be delivered next week.  It has the same physical configuration, so replacement should be an easy straight forward process.

I'll provide additional info if anything else of value comes up.

R/

John

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3 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Yeah, you win some, you lose some 🙁!

When the Magnum Tech told me that the lifespan of this unit is 10-12 years and I've gotten nearly 20 years out of it, I don't feel too bad.  Besides I'm moving to a pure sine wave unit which I preferred anyway. 

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1 hour ago, biloxi_dad said:

Tom and All following,

After doing a hard reset on my ME2012 Inverter/Charger, I applied power but it's not charging my batt bank (@12.3 VDC).  I called Magnum Tech Support, and after some additional discussion, the technician told me the unit is not repairable (almost 20 years old) as it's operated almost double it's life expectancy.

I have ordered a new unit from Inverter Supply and upgraded to a pure sine wave inverter (MS2012) as recommended by the Magnum tech representative.  The new unit should be delivered next week.  It has the same physical configuration, so replacement should be an easy straight forward process.

I'll provide additional info if anything else of value comes up.

R/

John

Be a big spender. Order the new ME-RC remote.  NOT THE MC-ACR, There are many features in the new inverter that the old remote will not have or allow or interface with.  Likewise, when i replaced my old remote, I picked up a LOT of features.  I do not know, Magnum will have to comment, if your present, assuming you have one, 4 knob AGS will work….or if that is something you use.  The original 4 knob had serious “design” issues.  But the new “-N” AGS plugs in and no issues.

MY 4 Knob unit failed after 3 years.  The “-N” AGS is 10 years old….easy to use.  
 

JUST INFO & FOOD FOR THOUGHT…. 

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2 hours ago, biloxi_dad said:

When the Magnum Tech told me that the lifespan of this unit is 10-12 years and I've gotten nearly 20 years out of it, I don't feel too bad.  Besides I'm moving to a pure sine wave unit which I preferred anyway. 

Well, mine is still going after 16yrs!

I think he may be underestimating their average lifespan!

I'll bet there's plenty of '07+ coaches out there still using the factory installed inverter / charger. 

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18 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Well, mine is still going after 16yrs!

I think he may be underestimating their average lifespan!

I'll bet there's plenty of '07+ coaches out there still using the factory installed inverter / charger. 

Yes….so is mine.  BUT after the hard reset, if it is NOT charging….and the Magnum Tech’s verified it is KAPUT….it is dead.  The board alone is more than $700

Your remote  probably works.  Mine died..Just a matter of how used, conditions, power, blips. YES, we both be living on borrowed time.  My Hard Restart average, in at least 20 instances,  is probably 80%,  I’ll take those…but John’s died….

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15 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Be a big spender. Order the new ME-RC remote.  NOT THE MC-ACR

Tom,  As both you and Magnum Tech rep suggested, I'm getting the new remote as well.  My 3-button remote looks like (dimension-wise) the ME-RC without the 2 extra buttons.  So it should fit with minimal effort.

Thanks again! 👍

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10 hours ago, biloxi_dad said:

Tom,  As both you and Magnum Tech rep suggested, I'm getting the new remote as well.  My 3-button remote looks like (dimension-wise) the ME-RC without the 2 extra buttons.  So it should fit with minimal effort.

Thanks again! 👍

I WISH I got a commission from Magnum.  BUT, at least you did NOT purchase a new inverter....without knowing that the OLD ONE is dead.

Good Deal.  It will fit.  You will really enjoy the NEW inverter and the features on the NEW remote.  I still, like Ben (96 EVO) have my original....but all of the function and features of the NEW remote are NOT IN the old inverter.

Better to start with NEW stuff...  Let us KNOW.  Follow the instructions. You will, I THINK, get a NEW Batt Temp Sensor.  Install it.  BUT, if you want to be super safe, don't bolt it to the rear NEGATIVE.  Use a piece of Gorilla tape and put the metal tab (the one with the hole) against the case.  Use zip ties and make a "loop" that will fit around the case and then use that to secure the BTS. You PROBABLY are OK...with a NEW ONE...but they short out....

DO NOT USE THE OLD ONE....say good bye to it...

The AGS depends on if you HAD one and if it is working...but if you need or decide you want it....then the NEW "-N" AGS is great....and the new remote makes it easy to use.  Way less complicated than programming an old VSH Recorder.  LOL.

Keep us posted.

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