privcap1 Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 Hello, I'm having to replace my throttle pedal assembly with sensor on my 2003 Windsor. I've been having problems such as warning light on and de-rating to idle. The codes were read and determine to be the Throttle Position Sensor. After a lengthy search I was able to determine the GM OEM is made by ACDelco, part# 15150990. Have any of you made this repair? If so, is there a calibration procedure for the new sensor? privcap1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RolandE Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 Hello, Iin my manual the recalibration of the TPS sensor is described as follows: with the ignition switched on, press the accelerator pedal 3 times in a row until it stops evenly and quickly and also back again evenly. I have a Dynasty with year of construction 2002. Greeting Roland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 1, 2020 Author Share Posted August 1, 2020 Thank you Roland, very much appreciated! That's what I'll do, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanwill52 Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 On 8/1/2020 at 10:52 AM, privcap1 said: Hello, I'm having to replace my throttle pedal assembly with sensor on my 2003 Windsor. I've been having problems such as warning light on and de-rating to idle. The codes were read and determine to be the Throttle Position Sensor. After a lengthy search I was able to determine the GM OEM is made by ACDelco, part# 15150990. Have any of you made this repair? If so, is there a calibration procedure for the new sensor? privcap1 Assuming yours is the same as on my 2000 Dynasty ISC-350, it is a Hall-effect device with no mechanical contacts. It is NOT a potentiometer with a wiper. Try to purchase the sensor element only--sometimes it is sold as an entire pedal assembly at about 4X the price. Replacing the sensor is easy. Do the calibration as mentioned earlier after installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 Van, Unfortunately mine is the whole throttle pedal assembly with the built in 6 pin sensor. I had a heck of a time finding the right part. REV sent me a link for the correct part but the retailer wanted $600 for it. I found it on Amazon for $150. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 Well replacing the throttle position sensor (includes whole throttle pedal assembly) did not fix my problem. I still have the warning light. The codes indicate the throttle position sensor/Idle validation switch. This problem has been intermittent for sometime. Previously I've been able to rectify the problem by shutting down and restarting. This is no longer working. I'm needing to move on out of my present location for work. However I don't want to head out with the warning light on and then have the engine de-rate to idle in the middle of no where. That includes driving it to a distant heavy truck service centre. I've sprayed contact cleaner on the connector at the pedal hoping that would help but no change. Anyone have any ideas on what I else I can try to fix this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanwill52 Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 Do you have any sort of device like VMSpc or ScanGage that can give the actual fault number of the code? Frank M decoded one for me that was SID 251 and he crossed it over to Cummins 434. It might help to know the actual fault code number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 Van, Unfortunately I don't have anything like that...I had a mobile mechanic read the code but I don't recall if he actually said the code number. I wish now I would have asked him and wrote it down. I have a call into him to see if he remembers the code but so far no call back. He was able to stop or start the problem by wiggling the connector at the sensor connection. I've tried that but I don't seem to get any kind of reaction or resolve. I've sprayed the connector with contact cleaner but no change. I've opened up the strand of wires between the pedal and the firewall. All wires look fine. I really don't know how it would be possible to check the wires all the way back to the ECM. Maybe I'll see if I can get it to a service centre. If it de-rates to idle, perhaps I can raise engine rpm's with the cruise control? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 I'm just wondering if maybe installing the new sensor did fixed the issue but the red waning light will stay on until the code is cleared? Is that a possibility? I haven't taken it for a drive but have had it running and do have full throttle response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 If you have full throttle response then drive the coach. If you don't have the software to clear the code, it should clear by driving the coach. But it may take multiple drive cycles to clear an old code. But if you still have a red stop engine light, something else is going on. What codes are being shown by the ECM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 Frank, My only fear is it will de-rate and we'll be stranded. That is if the warning light is reading a current code as opposed to an old one. Do you know if sometimes the warning light will stay lit until the code is cleared? In the past it's always cleared with a shut down and restart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank McElroy Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Well there is no simple answer. It all depends on the ECM code and for me to give you an answer, I need the code number. Some codes will stay active until you complete a successful drive cycle and then it will clear. Others will clear as soon as the component is replaced. But, if you replaced the component and you still have a stop engine red code do not drive the coach. Even if its a yellow check engine code, you need to know the code number in order to decide if it's OK to drive the coach without it derating. I wish that I could be more helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 Okay thanks Frank. I have a "check engine" light, a "stop engine" light and a red "warning" light. Only the red warning light is on. The only codes this engine has produced in the 4 years we've had the motorhome have been related to "throttle position sensor". In fact 14 times, this according to the mobile mechanic, According to my engine operation manual, a throttle position sensor issue shouldn't cause the "warning " light to come one. Only coolant, oil pressure, intake manifold temp, engine over-speed and fuel temperature are related to the warning light condition. I'm kicking myself for not writing down the code number when the mobile mechanic did the diagnostic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 I would say that unless you can get someone to come and scan the current codes for you for cheap, you might as well invest in scangauge d or similar and have it with you for the future. That is my philosophy and what I did, scangauge always on and recently added insite if more info needed. There is no telling if you got an other code in the meantime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 Ivan, Yep I think I need something like that so I can deal with issues like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 Well for now all is working good. The active code was #431 (Idle Activation Switch). I had not had that #431 code previously. The mobile mechanic took apart the female connector off the harness. He did some rehab on the little connectors. Re-installed everything but it still flashed code #431 as soon as I turned on the chassis batts. He said it needed to come into the shop for further diagnostics. As he was leaving I asked if I should try putting the old pedal back on and do a re-calibration procedure. He said you might as well try it just in case your new one is defective. I installed the old pedal assembly and the warning light went out. We traveled two hours to our next stop and all is good so far. So not too sure what the problem was exactly. Maybe the harness connector. Plus the new pedal assembly may be defective or just doesnt work with my ECM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I remember 2 or 3 yrs ago when this was a hot topic on the old forum and different replacements were mentioned but I do not recall ACDelco - GM being mentioned Are you sure the GM part is compatible ? As I recall Van took his into a truck parts store and matched it up . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 (edited) Ray, I don't know for sure if it is compatible. Other than the pedal length it's exactly the same in every way as my original one. It was for 2002-2003 GM vehicles. Same vintage as our Windsor. It was the only one I could find with the 6 pin sensor connection. I took my old one to a Heavy Truck parts and service centre that specializes in cummins and freightliner. The parts people searched high and low but could find nothing that matched it. I finally found it by combing through Amazon. REV linked me to one but it was $600 U.S. plus exchange , shipping , duties and taxes. I'm betting it would have been compatible though. The mobile mechanic was shocked that my new one was only $140 CAN. He said those are usually $1000 to $2000 up here in Canada. Edited August 5, 2020 by privcap1 typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I hope the GM part proves out to be workable on our 03 Windsors because eventually we all may be needing a new throttle position sensor and a GM part will probably be easier to find and seemingly much cheaper than most of the others . I have an elect golf cart that is having similar problems I can pump the accelerator rapidly and that clears the problem for a short while then it'll do it again . Sorry you are experiencing problems but your difficulties will help us all as you post your findings . Best of luck please keep us informed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 Ray, One thing the mechanic said was that the pedal in/out feature really puts a strain on the sensor connection, especially when the pedal is all the way in towards the driver. Some of my connections were stretched and loose he said. I like to sit quite a ways back from the steering wheel so I've had the pedals almost all the way to their stop position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 42 minutes ago, privcap1 said: Ray, One thing the mechanic said was that the pedal in/out feature really puts a strain on the sensor connection, especially when the pedal is all the way in towards the driver. Some of my connections were stretched and loose he said. I like to sit quite a ways back from the steering wheel so I've had the pedals almost all the way to their stop position. Interesting , I can't sit back I couldn't reach the pedals that way . I'm short and getting shorter . Never thought of myself as being under sized until now at this stage of my life I realize I am short and I'm shrinking . 😉 A disadvantage is with the drivers seat all the way forward I can't get out until I move the seat back 😲 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpasetto Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 There's the part number GM 15150990 which runs in the $100 range. (https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15150990-Original-Equipment-Accelerator/dp/B010GMRIAQ) Then part 6570417 appears to be for Monaco built coaches in early-mid 2000's , at a tune of around $600 (https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/6570417-Pedal-Asm-Accelerator) They look alike , but I believe the latter one, 6570417 , is a Hall-effect design. Is the GM 15150990 also a hall effect or is it a rheostat type? .. Rick P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanwill52 Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 My 2000 Dynasty 36 with ISC-350 had the throttle position sensor go bad. It was a Hall-effect device, NOT a potentiometer-type. It had a six-pin connector, rectangular with rounded ends. The only markings on it were "131040" and "0609". I replaced it with a Williams Controls "Kit, Sensor P/N 131973". It was a part readily available at a local heavy-truck parts distributor. It was less than $80. That was about four years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
privcap1 Posted August 6, 2020 Author Share Posted August 6, 2020 2 hours ago, rpasetto said: There's the part number GM 15150990 which runs in the $100 range. (https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15150990-Original-Equipment-Accelerator/dp/B010GMRIAQ) Then part 6570417 appears to be for Monaco built coaches in early-mid 2000's , at a tune of around $600 (https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/6570417-Pedal-Asm-Accelerator) They look alike , but I believe the latter one, 6570417 , is a Hall-effect design. Is the GM 15150990 also a hall effect or is it a rheostat type? .. Rick P Rick, I'd sure be interested to know if there is a difference between that ACDelco 15150990 that I recently bought and the other one which is the link REV sent me. My ECM sure didn't like the ACDelco. I also had to bend the pedal bar up a bit to clear the floor. That was no big deal though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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