Monacoers Daily News
Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily News for *|date|*
To view this on the web click here: *|weblink|*. To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.
Please do not reply to this message. You must visit the forum to reply.
Hello Guest,
Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
Tom Cherry
4 hours ago, Keith H. said:OK, I STILL cannot identify the “inline” 30 amp fuse for my Kwikee steps.
Could someone send me a picture and location of where yours is?I have a 2003 Signature Centurion if that helps. I have searched in my engine bay fuse box, my front street side fuse bay, my fuse panel in my bedroom, the small fuse box in my closet, my battery bay and under and around the steps themselves
If I knew what I was looking for, it might help. I only know what the blade fuses you push in look like. Not sure what an “inline” fuse looks like or what it’s “housed” in for protection.
Thanks for helping.Keith
Keith,
Our MH's are complex and many folks don't have the electrical expertise to fully understand them. But, we all have to learn. Here is two resources for you as well as some help to improve your trouble shooting skills.
First, you PROBABLY, I hope, have the owner's manual. If so, you have prints. If you scroll through the back of the manual, there is a print called DYN NAV EXE SIG Power Entry Step Wiring.
I pulled this on from the 2003 Dynasty. FWIW. The Dynasty and UP all had the same basic wiring harnesses. There were items or features that were added to the upper ends, so they were INCLUDED on the prints....but specific for that model. The step is the SAME. Here is the print for yours... If your print is different, then Monaco made a change. BUT, most likely....this is it. Monaco made a MAJOR change in the electrical systems circa 2005/6. SO, odds are, any comments or help for those years might be a wild goose chase...or it might be right. SO, we, the Moderators, always find a set of drawing that is one year older or younger and we can help in 90% of the issues.
There are typically at least 5 or 6 different "FUSES" in our MH. An Inline fuse is a glass fuse in a cylindrical holder or it can be a blade fuse in a socket. Next up are the Circuit Breakers. Monaco used the term "CB" and there are many in your MH. This is a device that will "trip" when something happens...but if the condition corrects itself, it then resets AUTOMATICALLY and all is well. Headlights is one of the issues. Next is a Mini-Circuit Breaker.
Look on the print. There is a Mini -Breaker in the REAR RUN box (Plate). This is the 20 Amp one. It will be a "square" device...looks like a Relay. There is a lever or arm on it. When it trips, the lever will be hanging down or will be obvious that it has tripped. You can look at the surrounding ones... Their levers will be tight or close and that is the normal position. You push the lever back to where it is close to the body. BINGO....if is reset. NOW if there is STILL a "short" or issue, it will immediately TRIP again. It works exactly like a Circuit Breaker in your home panel. THIS IS THE POWER to the step.
EDIT....another moderator just sent me a photo and I pulled two from my files.
The TOCAS is a "Mini Style" breaker. It is a 150 Amp. Lower amperage ones may be "smaller". If you look at the second photo, the Auto RESET is the small black box on the circuit board. The final photo with the switch also has the "same" 150 Amp Breaker as the first. Look in the lower right corner and that is how it is installed. Your Dynasty may have them on a rack or a board....so look at the labels.
END OF EDIT...
Also NOTICE...there is a 5 Amp FUSE that provides an Ignition Signal. It is located in the Front Run bay. There are diagrams in the manual as well as in the prints that show the location. There is also a decal on every fuse block that lists the fuses. BOTH these have to work. So, that's it.
NOW....continuing....there are TWO types of fuses on your MH, or at least on MOST. There are larger Mini Fuses....that have higher current. Don't know about the size...but if you see a black box with a lever (sometimes red or yellow) then it can be a Breaker or a Mini-Breaker. If the arm is tripped or hanging out...it is an open circuit. There MAY be long fuses.. BUSSMANN was usually the brand. You can see the fusable link (the part that melts) under the plastic cover. There is also a HIGH CURRENT FUSE that is connected to the Positive on your Inverter. In your case, it might be 300 Amp, 350 Amps or 400Amps. Monaco kept changing.
THAT THE DRILL... NOW, to help you in the future....do some YouTube digging and you can learn to do electrical trouble shooting and how to use a Volt Ohm Meter. You will have, unless you intend to have a tech fix everything, to learn to use a VOM. YouTube has probably 100 Videos...
NEXT UP. Here is the prints or the 2003 Dynasty. I would download them. This print has one valuable tool....you can SEARCH for any specific item....like STEP. The person that supplied us with them did a "WORD" Index as the first page. He listed the drawing name and the page of the PDF that they are in. If you look at any Adobe Reader.. there is a FIND TEXT OR TOOLS (magnifying glass) in the upper right corner. Put in STEP and hit enter. It will show you EVERY print that has the word "STEP" in it. A WHOLE LOT quicker than scrolling through. If you don't know how to use this Adobe feature, google it and learn. it is a TIME SAVER.
That's it. Good Luck. Here are the 2003 Dynasty Drawings...
2003 Dynasty and UP Step diagram.pdf
Ride height leveler
Gweedo
Thank you, my parts are supposed to arrive today. 🤞
Ivan K
I have replaced one of my valves recently. You will need to have empty air tanks and airbags. I use blocks between the h-frame and main rails but ramps or appropriate jack stands would do the same. Basically you need to be able to get safely under the coach with no air in the system. With air leveling, there could be a nuance in doing it but no air is still the safest option. Try to mirror the arm angle of the old valve so that you need less or no final hight adjustment after the replacement because that would have to be done when aired up again.
bryan browne
My 2007 was bad also when i purchased it, I replaced it with a aftermarket last year, has worked very well to date.
Tom Cherry
10 hours ago, Brad Loehr said:I would think Recpro does not incorporate a control for an auxillary furnace into their system for a reason and never will. The IR remote control to control the onboard thermostat and controls is a better system because everything is contained. No need to run thermostat wiring through walls or ceilings and have to work with a wall thermostat that would fail. Also can integrate into smart features to control the IR with your phone for only $40ish.
They are engineered in Australia so if the need for heat in your RV or caravan is a must then the heat pump will work fine to temperatures of around 0 degrees Celsius. I imagine in Australia propane heated furnaces are overkill.
SORT OF A WHIMSICAL retort to the AUSSIE. I was at the NCAA Men Basketball Final Four in Phoenix a few weeks ago. We had a Jeep rental and were doing some sight seeing. My BIL was driving and is not exactly the most coordinated and he has difficulty in moving his head whilst driving... I do a LOT of praying when he is zipping downhill at 80 MPH and can't "see". He was in a hurry and handed me back our NP Golden Eagle Pass. He said here...and just dropped it. OPPS...I did not have time to grasp it. SO, it fell between the seat and the console. TOTALLY out of reach. I contrived a method of using duct tape (adhesive exposed) on a dowel to extricate it. We drove on and I caught up with a couple in a Class C. I conned them out of a foot of Gorilla Duct Tape. VERY NICE folks. They had just bought a used (26 years old) Caravan and Toad in Florida....and were driving back across the US and headed for California... The gentleman gave me a guided tour of the unit and how pristine it was. He then said that he had searched all over the US to find it. He went ON. As long as it was over 25 years OLD...it was considered as an ANTIQUE and NOT subject to import duties....which were unbelievable. As I understood it...these restrictions were set up by the Aussie government to encourage local manufacturing. SO, he could NOT afford to buy a newer Caravan in the US and import it as the cost would be prohibitive...
We have NOT, to my knowledge, ever had an Aussie or a NZ'er post here. I DO know from a few trips to NZ and AU, the there are few, if any "NEW CARS". There is a trade agreement (or there was in 1995) that allowed older (2 -3 YO) Japanese (as in MADE IN JAPAN) cars to be imported with NO IMPORT fees. There was, said the economics professor that was our host, a tax on OLDER cars in Japan....so you had to sell or trade your car before it was, say 4 years or so old, otherwise there was a 25% tax....and then it escalated.
Afterwards, I started looking at the cars.... ALL Japanese....very few German car brands. MAY NOT BE THE SAME NOW...but the RV Aussie owner, very astute and knowledgable.....gave me an ECON lesson in the Petrified Forest. BTW... I removed a plastic wand from the drapery in the hotel and "snuck" it out....but on the way to breakfast...it hit me. My old 4 finger "Tool Picker Upper" at home was shot. I bought a new one at O'Reilly's and extricated the credit card style pass in less than 15 seconds. I must have spent hours contemplating HOW to lift it up with various devices that I had on me.
OK...back to fixing Monaco's here....
@96 EVO Ben, PLEASE TELL ME that you do NOT have an auxillary Chinese Diesel Heater in your Scepter... I worry about you... LOL...
lake49068
Finally all fixed! Was both the actuator AND the shift pad. Discussed the problem's earlier diagnosis at Fort Myers and their non-fix...and Fort Wayne agrees with their approach to replace the internal harness. Guess I should have tested the shift engagement periodically while in Fort Myers during our stay there to make sure all was well. Very happy with the techs in Fort Wayne and have to retract any criticism of the Fort Myers techs. Deep problems require time...
Keith H.
Tom, Thanks for your advise. I have the full wiring diagram “booklet” and have learned several things, but still have a long ways to go. A lot of it looks Greek to me. Scratch that, I can read and speak Greek, and Hebrew a little. It looks like the Thailand language spelled out.
I think I’m going to take a basic electrical course. It can’t hurt.
96 EVO
I sure do!
Best mod I've made yet. Bedtime, Aqua Hot goes off. Quiet diesel heating goes on 👍!
dandick66
7 hours ago, Keith H. said:OK, I STILL cannot identify the “inline” 30 amp fuse for my Kwikee steps.
Could someone send me a picture and location of where yours is?I have a 2003 Signature Centurion if that helps. I have searched in my engine bay fuse box, my front street side fuse bay, my fuse panel in my bedroom, the small fuse box in my closet, my battery bay and under and around the steps themselves
If I knew what I was looking for, it might help. I only know what the blade fuses you push in look like. Not sure what an “inline” fuse looks like or what it’s “housed” in for protection.
Thanks for helping.Keith
Here’s a photo of an inline blade style fuse.
Air horn solenoid location
Ivan K
Don't know about Dynasty but mine is in FRB and many have it on outside of the firewall. And yes, a yellow line from PPV on the front tank on mine too.
NAMVET77
Update on the parking brake not releasing. During my search for air leaks (found a whole bunch) I replaced a dozen or so brass fittings that were leaking. On the front tank there is a 3 way check valve and it was leaking at the tank, There are 3 air lines that attach to the 3 way check valve (silver, red and green). I took a picture of the set up, removed the lines and fittings and replaced the fittings. Reinstalled the air lines as per the picture (or as I thought I did). Checked for leaks and there were none. Moved on to other leaks. Anyway, after a lot of double and triple checking the green and red lines at the 3 way check valve were reversed. Switched the air lines and now the parking brake releases!!!🤪 Now we are getting ready to go to the MS rally. Thanks for the input even though the problem was self inflected.
Don
Keith H.
Thank you Dan D.
BTW, I have a friend who I served with when I was in Air Force Special Tactics. You aren’t him are you? He’s a Navy Seal and always went by Dan D.
Wouldn’t that be a hoot!
Paul J A
Battery Boost Held ON too Long - What Could Possibly Go Wrong?
Frank McElroy
I had an interesting PCB repair last week that I want to share with the group.
A member with a new to him 2007 Signature contacted me to have his Big Boy control board (PCB#6 in RRB) repaired.
On the board, a copper trace overheated and separated. In trying to find out why, I asked a bit about the history. The new owner mentioned that the previous owner said he replaced his big boy with a new one that didn't work and that he would wedge the battery boost to stay ON for hours at a time. That bit of information explained everything.
The battery boost switch is momentary for a reason. It is designed to be held ON for minutes - not tens of minutes let alone hours. In normal operation, the control circuit board pulses 12 volts to the big boy coil to in effect provide about 8 VDC to hold the coil engaged (Big Boy is NOT a latching battery isolator like the Blue Sea ML-ACR). When you press and hold ON the battery boost, you are providing a full 12VDC to the Big Boy solenoid coil and over time it will overheat, fail AND also burn up PCB#6 in the Rear Run Bay.
Since these boards are becoming hard to find in salvage yards, the board was repaired and is now working just fine.
A word of caution - please don't hold the battery boost switch ON for more than a few minutes at a time.
Frank McElroy
On 4/21/2024 at 8:31 AM, Tom Cherry said:Just to clear the air and set the record straight. Frank is the only person that has successfully repaired the K’B CCM switch modules. Frank took this on as a “personal” challenge maybe a year of so ago. He had helped some recover functions and started to understand the MPX system. The saga or story of how he was able to “download and reprogram or fix” any of the components” is documented in the topics. Do a search of KONGSBERG” and select TOPICS. He has posted the “gist” of his journey. He set up a “bench” line where he had a complete CCM system breadboarded together and had every function, as in the output signals to EVERY K’B controlled component, working. With that rig, he can diagnose any issue. He also was able to download and store every module’s program. Memory says there are at least 7 or 8 discrete chip programs for the system.
Then, he developed a method to remove the “chip”, which is surface mounted on each device….and replace with a new, virgin unprogrammed chip….with precision as the 28 (memory) contacts….7 per side…placement has to be within maybe 0.003”. Once replaced, then he has the ability to reprogram the chip with the OEM program….making it 100% functional. In some cases, I think he has also repaired other items or restored a faulty “trace”.
There are no other shops or individuals in the US that have accomplished this….much less have a smattering of his technology and expertise. It has been a “life saver” for our members. There is a 30+ page topic here of how a member bought a “salvaged” MH and had the moxie to make it quasi roadworthy…as in drive it home. The switches had been “tested” by another shop, only to discover that the original switches sent in, many of which were known good, were NOT returned and were replaced with defective ones. THUS, that shop is one that we now have concerns about.
The above is the gist of how this saga ended and Frank is the only person to persevere and develop the methodology as well as fabricate the jig for replacement and also “crack the code”….as in learned how, with many hours of experiments and also totally drew up a schematic of the boards…to get a copy of the programs.
This is a feat beyond all electronics comprehension unless one was there, via emails, texts, photos as well as many phone calls…..which I was fortunate enough to be involved.
As Paul Harvey would say…..now you know the REST OF THE STORY….
Tom - Thanks for the kind words. Yep, this was a bit of a challenge - but I like electronic challenges.
For folks interested in the saga of how I learned how to repair the Kongsberg Chassis multiples system (including a detailed technical PDF file), read the link below starting about in the middle of page 11 (if you start on page 1 your will read the whole story of all the twists and turns). Oh BTW, my coach doesn't have a Kongsberg system - my interest was in helping other members and maybe in the future getting a bath and a half coach with such a system and being able to repair it.
Fasthobie16
Thanks guys. It’s not in the cabinet area above the windshield. Found a “ T “ fitting with the supply line from the solenoid and split to two horns there . The air line looks like it runs down the windshield post on the driver’s side. Don’t know where yet. I’m having fun looking 🤨. It’s also not in the front run panel either. Did not see anything looking up from the ground on the left front forward end around the drivers side. Keep the ideas coming. I’m appreciative of them. Your help will get me there.
Jdw12345
For the life of me, I can’t comprehend how anyone could ever think that holding down the boost switch is how to solve there issue! I just can’t understand that train of thought!
96 EVO
11 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:For the life of me, I can’t comprehend how anyone could ever think that holding down the boost switch is how to solve there issue! I just can’t understand that train of thought!
Don't know, but I've read of owners using different devices wedged under the switch!
Can't recall ever using the boost switch myself, but, I keep my batteries reasonably fresh!
Frank McElroy
12 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:Don't know, but I've read of owners using different devices wedged under the switch!
Can't recall ever using the boost switch myself, but, I keep my batteries reasonably fresh!
Yes, over the years I've seen the same posts about owners using different devices to hold the battery boost switch ON. A very bad idea - that's the main reason why I decided to post why not to do it.
As it turned out, the new owner had 2 boards from the previous owner with the same exact failure. He now has 2 repaired boards. One he's using and one as a spare for future use if ever needed.
96 EVO
My alternator bit the dust on my way south this winter! Luckily my BIRD / Big Boy is functional!
I just ran my generator the rest of the way, and replaced my alternator at my destination.
Frank McElroy
2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:My alternator bit the dust on my way south this winter! Luckily my BIRD / Big Boy is functional!
I just ran my generator the rest of the way, and replaced my alternator at my destination.
Yes, that's a great example of understanding how all the systems in your coach work together and if there is an issue, how to solve the problem as you did.
Years ago, I got a call at about 10:30 PM from a person who I knew and I thought that there must be a problem so I took the call. He was on the side of the road on a dark rainy night, with no headlights, dash gauges, or interior lights but with the engine running, and waiting hours for a tow. His domestic engineer was very scared to say the least.
Since I know he had a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach, with the house batteries powering the dash gauges, headlights and interior lights, I told him that his Big Boy failed and to just jumper the chassis batteries to the house batteries to start the generator.
That's exactly what he did and a few minutes later, his domestic engineer was thrilled at getting back power to the coach - tow was cancelled and he drove home.
It's all about understanding how all the systems work together and what to do if there is a problem.
Please do not reply to this message. You must visit the forum to reply.
This message was sent to you because you opted in for Newsletters at Bill D’s Monacoers.
To unsubscribe Guest click here:Unsubscribe here
We welcome your comments and suggestions for our newsletter. Please send comments to newsletter@monacoers.org
Copyright © 2024 Monacoers, Inc. All Rights Reserved.