Monacoers Daily News

Dave, I have an ‘06 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ, mine was the broken gear in the reel.  I too looked high and low, plus the prices are out of sight.  I finally decided to just eliminate the reel all together.  So I removed the old one, which by the way is a real treat.  But now all I do is stuff it into the pocket left over from no reel being in the way.  Part of the power cable needs to be pushed back in the opening under the bed, but it's really easy to get it in there.  And I don't have to worry about a failing motor, or a broken gear anymore.

11 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Several years between my coach build and yours, but when I first tested my AGS with low voltage, it didn't start either.

A little investigation with a volt meter in the front run bay, I discovered they were using chassis battery power for the AGS sensing 😖!

Quick rewire, and all was well!

Ben, can you please explain the exact steps I need to take to find out which battery bank my AGS is sensing as my AGS has never worked like it should? The 10K generator does start off of the chassis battery bank.

I did switch out the remote and the older style AGS to the newer version remote and the AGS-N. Then I set it up exactly as recommended by this group but the generator never starts when the house battery bank gets to 12.0 - 12.1 or so VDC.

I haven't taken the time to call Magnum directly to ask for help.

2007 HR Vacationer xl diesel pusher.  Bought new driver & passenger seats from Seats4you, HUGE mistake.  After difficult & expensive instal, seats now sit too high on their Flexsteel mounts.  I have to remove mounts and replace them or get them cut down and reinstall.  TO do this I have to remove the 4 bolts that hold the mount to the floor.  Does anyone know if the bolts are held under the floor by removable or fixed nuts?  Appreciate any advice.

The swivel base mounted to the floor uses Hex-Head bolts only. Mine has 5.

The bolts go into a heavy duty steel plate mounted to the frame.

My 05 castle 4 has permanent nuts on the frame. Good luck.

I have a 2005 Dynasty, I cant find the release for the front passenger footrest?

There is NO release for the footrest. It is a switch on the side of the chair.

Sorry I did not do a search before posting this. Found what I needed by searching for crimper 

I am considering purchaseing a hydraulic cable crimper that will crimp up to 4/0 cable.

Any thoughts on brand ot type, die or dieless. 

Thanks for any suggestions

On 5/3/2024 at 6:20 PM, Dave Shackelford said:

I have a 2005 Camelot 40 pdq and my power reel broke today. Too worn out to fix. Any suggestions as to where and what brand I should buy ? It's an old Shoreline reel by TDI products. Model RV5036. Can't find another one like it.

thanks,

Dave

Maybe you could provide your meaning of "broke". Now Curious of what is the problem or actual malfunction. 

Sure!

I'll take a pic of my AGS module a bit later, as I don't remember which connection it is off the top of my head.

Front door steps, when opening front door appear to attempt opening but don't move. Orange light comes on, and you can see the motor engaging the gear, moving it slightly.  Closing the door,  motor reverses, gear moves very slightly,  motor stops, light goes off. I am assuming controller good. I oiled all pivot points and tapped with hammer. I see 4 screws to remove step, 2 however recessed over step between step and inside step, tough to reach.  Is step binding,  motor bad, or possibly bad controller? 15 year old coach,  purchase new steps? Thanks for your assistance!

Open door and pull on them to help extend. If they come on out then they are binding (slightly) somehow. If not either the steps or the gear is locked up somehow, most likely the gear. 

1 hour ago, brokenarrow1244 said:

Maybe you could provide your meaning of "broke". Now Curious of what is the problem or actual malfunction. 

Thermo Nuclear destruction , Meltdown, Fried, DEAD

On 5/4/2024 at 8:18 AM, Dr4Film said:

My personal opinion is NOT to install another reel as they are notorious for problems. I would hard-wire it to your transfer case or to a junction box depending on exactly what you currently have and be done with it. Or wire in a 50 amp Male end on your coach, then wire a 50 amp Female end on the end of your power cord. That would allow you to coil it up and place it into a storage container then into one of your storage bays,

My previous Windsor and my current Dynasty both came with Glendinning Cablemaster's model RLC which are FAR better than any reel could ever think to be.

Transfer switch acting up
Dave Shackelford 18 hours ago

On 4/30/2024 at 6:43 PM, Dave Shackelford said:

Congrats to you guys. You nailed it. It was a half broken wire inside the plug to the pedestal. Called Xantrex and the tech cleared the inverter. Called the transfer switch guys and they cleared the transfer switch & told me it was a dropped leg on the power cord. Problem was it was NOT broken all the way and that made it difficult it troubleshoot. Anyway problem solved and didn't have to spend money !!!

Dave

Update, After fixing the power cord end it stopped working again. Turns out it was the power cord reel internal connection went bad. Burned up. Took out the reel and made a direction connection. All good now.

Dave

08 dynasty thermostat issue
vipeboy2000 18 hours ago

Thanks so much everyone.  New control board in the front fixed the communication issue and found a burned fuse I somehow missed the first 4 times.  Chatted with Tom directly.  Very helpful.  

Using the old dometic 5 button thermostat until the next issue! 

seat mount bolts
1nolaguy 18 hours ago

Our 05 Safari Cheetah has 4 large hex bolts that go through a metal plate that is part of the frame , through the floor and then through the chair base where nut , flat and lick washer are applied. It requires two people, one in side and one outside. Additionally it helps to remove the chair for easier access to the nuts and worse remove the front wheel to access the hex head. I am 6'1" and with a long 1/2" wratchet wrentch still could not reach the back bolts with the wheel in place. YMMV.

08 dynasty thermostat issue
MyronTruex 18 hours ago

Great. Where was that fuse located? Did you use a voltmeter to test it or just visual? 

 

ISM Exhaust Manifold
dl_racing427 18 hours ago

I also think I'd replace all the gaskets while I was at it.  Do it once and be done with it.
There are threads on here that detail several methods for removing manifold bolts without breaking them.
A search will give you some very valuable advice.
Believe me, taking your time to remove those bolts properly is infinitely preferable to the headache of dealing with a broken bolt.

Good luck.

seat mount bolts
Dr4Film 18 hours ago

@1nolaguy Now why would Safari do that??? Seems to me someone had lost their minds when their "engineer" designed that securing system.

My previous Windsor and now my Dynasty both are mounted the same way, 5 Hex-Head Bolts  with washers through the swivel base into the steel plate on the floor which is part of the frame.

Service light on Allison only at full throttle
Reka52 18 hours ago

Check oil level and change filters

Service light on Allison only at full throttle
Benjamin 18 hours ago

Any codes?

08 dynasty thermostat issue
vipeboy2000 18 hours ago

In the wardrobe.  One I had pulled out to test and check earlier but i swear it wasn't burned then ha.  F5 ot f6 I think marked as bedroom ceiling fan.  

Cable crimper
joefromperry 18 hours ago

2 hours ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Sorry I did not do a search before posting this. Found what I needed by searching for crimper 

I am considering purchaseing a hydraulic cable crimper that will crimp up to 4/0 cable.

Any thoughts on brand ot type, die or dieless. 

Thanks for any suggestions

 

This is what I recently bought on Amazon to make new cables for my house batteries. I only used it once to test it so far, but I like what it did. The picture is a double crimp on 4/0 cable.

Magnum AGS
96 EVO 17 hours ago

Third from the left needs to be supplied house battery voltage, rather than chassis voltage like Monaco wired mine!

 

Magnum AGS
Dr4Film 17 hours ago

Thanks, Ben. it appears that your AGS setup is different than mine. My AGS-N module is mounted near the Inverter on the ceiling wall in the the very rear pass-thru storage bay. I removed the standard 5-knob AGS module and installed the Magnum AGS-N module which uses all of the very same wires. I made sure to insert the wires in the very same order as they were with the normal 5-knob module.

I guess I will need to probe as you say "the third wire from the left" to see if it is attached to the chassis battery bank or the house battery bank. I have no idea as the wire loom goes into a mass of wires into the ceiling.

Magnum AGS
96 EVO 17 hours ago

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

 

I guess I will need to probe as you say "the third wire from the left" to see if it is attached to the chassis battery bank or the house battery bank. I have no idea as the wire loom goes into a mass of wires into the ceiling.

Yep!

Easy enough to tell when you have run your house bank down to 11.9-12.0V for testing your AGS!

I "think" you may even get that voltage reading off one of the menu's on your Magnum remote panel. That may be where I noticed the discrepancy, and realized there was a problem somewhere!

ISM Exhaust Manifold
Paul J A 17 hours ago

Ivan; "It helps big time to temporarily replace a couple of bolts with studs so the manifold slides out and into its place easily." 

Put a coat of a penetrating agent on those threads will help too. Might be able to use air and blow residue out before inserting the bolts used for the manifold installation.

Service light on Allison only at full throttle
Mark Underhill 17 hours ago

57 minutes ago, Benjamin said:

Any codes?

Not sure how to check them.

To install coolant shut off valves or not?
georgecederholm 17 hours ago

4 hours ago, DZZippy said:

I couldn’t agree more. Here is the funny thing….I did exactly that (Aquahot). I installed valves rated for diesel and vibration about 1 year ago. Never had and an issue. Then, after the coach sat in storage, I went in to a 1 gallon puddle on the floor under the Aquahot compartment. Yep it was diesel. Apparently one of the new shut off valves leaked through the stem of the valve. I now have a mess to deal with. All I could do was laugh. Already ordered new valves (different ones).

Kurtis,

I had the exact same experience. During the replacement (AHE-100-03S to D600), I picked up fuel line valves at the local Napa. Several years later, when I went to the storage area to run the furnace (people think Phoenix is always warm, but almost every year we have at least one short period of freeze warnings), I had a fuel leak. I replaced the defective valve and it’s twin with simple barbed unions, found real brass ball valves online, and will install those while I’m doing my periodic Aqua-Hot maintenance this summer.

ISM Exhaust Manifold
Ivan K 16 hours ago

11 minutes ago, Paul J A said:

Ivan; "It helps big time to temporarily replace a couple of bolts with studs so the manifold slides out and into its place easily." 

Put a coat of a penetrating agent on those threads will help too. Might be able to use air and blow residue out before inserting the bolts used for the manifold installation.

Yes, blowing out the blind holes is always good idea, I did not have to chase the threads since there wasn't any rust and bolts came out nicely but I used a bit of high temp antiseize in case I have to ever do it again. The couple of longer studs (cut of heads of long 10mm bolts) made positioning the gaskets and manifold easy.

ISM Exhaust Manifold
Paul J A 16 hours ago

Yep. And you can cut a slot in the end of the Studs for a screw driver to inset , remove too.

Turn down Allen head bolt heads to make studs too. IF you have the room.

To install coolant shut off valves or not?
Dr4Film 16 hours ago

That's what we get when for allowing our American made products to be copied by the Chinese and then sold here at a discount.

Service light on Allison only at full throttle
jacwjames 16 hours ago

43 minutes ago, Mark Underhill said:

Not sure how to check them.

On mine I press the Up & Down arrows twice and it will start displaying codes.  You'll see D1 and then the code, I think it will display 4 codes.

Refrigerator outside vent cover
2003 Dynasty 16 hours ago

I converted to a residential frig.  What is the purpose for blocking off that vent?  Seems as if the airflow would help keep the rear of the frig cooler and thus the coils cooler.  Thanks.

Heater Core or AC Evaporator Issues?
LakeBob 15 hours ago

Test Time: Rigged up a water test for the core. Tested at 30 psig for 5 minutes each end.  Needed to alternate submerged ends to test the entire core. 

No bubbles.....

 

 

Frustrated that I didn't find a leak, as I just don't see how the leak I observed occurred without the core leaking.   The only thing I did not mention is I observed the leak 4 months ago when arriving at our winter  spot and we had to use the heat that morning.   We did not use the chassis heat the entire 1800 miles home. I'm wondering is some debris or scale has plugged a small hole in the heater core? 

There is a mixer valve just outside the Heat/AC box, perhaps it was leaking?   I'll take a closer look at this.  

Regarding Assembly:  What type of seal would you recommend for sealing the box to the firewall.  I was thinking of a butyl tape?  OR Closed cell foam tape?

Replacement Heater Core 042-00044:  I did find a replacement core for $175 on Ebay.  Will talk to some other manufacturers and the local radiator shop tomorrow to see what other options are out there. 

 

 

Are steps chassis or house powered?
Jlalpaugh 15 hours ago

My 2008 Monaco Cayman will not start. Both house and chassis batteries are full. (Generator starts). When I turn the key all dash lights come on, flicker, gauges look like they are going to fire up….no sound. Nothing. At the same time this started my steps won’t go out when the door opens. Are these related? 

Are steps chassis or house powered?
Tom Cherry 14 hours ago

11 minutes ago, Jlalpaugh said:

My 2008 Monaco Cayman will not start. Both house and chassis batteries are full. (Generator starts). When I turn the key all dash lights come on, flicker, gauges look like they are going to fire up….no sound. Nothing. At the same time this started my steps won’t go out when the door opens. Are these related? 

You have dead Chassis Batteries.  The Generator starts off the House.  The steps work off the House.  Read the manual.  WitH Generator RUNNING….Hold on the BOOST switch for what the Manual says.  You repeat this process.  You need to put a surface charge on the Chassis.  NO JOY using the Boost switch like the manual says…..look in the index. May be in section 9. 

IF you have a Booster or Jumper cable.  You can jumper or connect the Positive HOUSE to the CHASSIS House. TURN OFF each battery bank switch with the battery disconnect switches.  Hook up the jumper cable beware the positives.  Turn ON BOTH Battery banks at the disconnect switches. Start the Generator. Let it run maybe 30 minutes.  This is charging the Chassis.  Then, with the generator RUNNING…..start the MH.  Should start. Let it and generator run for maybe 30 minutes.  Stop engine. Turn OFF BOTH Disconnects.  Remove the jumper cable.  You should be OK….and engine should start.

 

 

Service light on Allison only at full throttle
jacwjames 14 hours ago

Here is a guide on how to check for codes for the different shifters.  It also shows the codes themselves. 

Allison all codes.pdf

Refrigerator outside vent cover
Tom Cherry 14 hours ago

1 hour ago, 2003 Dynasty said:

I converted to a residential frig.  What is the purpose for blocking off that vent?  Seems as if the airflow would help keep the rear of the frig cooler and thus the coils cooler.  Thanks.

The new residential refrigerators will malfunction and shut down if the temperature outside drops into the low 30’s or so.  When the conversion was done, ALL the insulation around the gas refrigerator or on the walls should have been removed.  It was there to protect the interior from carbon monoxide poisoning…PRIMARY reason.

You insulate the roof vent from the top.  Use batts or whatever to close it off.  You insulate the cover…cut foam wedges and use HVAC and Duct tape. You insulate the louvers in the frame…if there are open spaces.

The insulation around the old gas unit kept you from loosing the heated for cooled air as well. Leaving the cover open and the vent (roof) open is like opening a window on one side and opening a window on the other….  Think about how that would impact the HVAC or furnace systems.

The side walls and top and under the residential refrigerator needs AIR FLOW.  That is why you do NOT need insulation.  Many home refrigerators are next to a wall and have a cabinet on the other side.  They work fine.

This is the way that NOW, the OEM refrigerator comes from the factory.  I had mine installed in the mountains of NC.  The first night, it dropped to 28.  Shut OFF.  The Samsung “locks up” . It does NOT cool.  Have to unplug…wait a few minutes….plug back in.  A few hours later….OFF.  Nursed it through the night. Worked fine during the day.  Got home.  Insulated the top (have a side vent…not a roof….same deal).  Insulated the back lower vent. Called Samsung and they sent out a REAL FACTORY Samsung tech. He laughed. Folks put the newer Energy Star refrigerators on back porches or in garages.  He says when it gets cold….they quit.  Does about 10 them in the fall.  That was 7 years ago.  Have used the MH for about 6 months out….and in some cold temps….and heat. No issues.

Now, if you want a freezer for the garage or back porch, you have to order an “all weather” or COLD weather model.  Lowes in the mountains of NC always stock them.  They are NOT the same as the normal freezers….price we pay for uograding the eddiciency. The compressors don’t run at extreme temps and are designed for INDOOR normal ambient temperatures.

INSULATE….

Magnum AGS
Tom Cherry 14 hours ago

3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Thanks, Ben. it appears that your AGS setup is different than mine. My AGS-N module is mounted near the Inverter on the ceiling wall in the the very rear pass-thru storage bay. I removed the standard 5-knob AGS module and installed the Magnum AGS-N module which uses all of the very same wires. I made sure to insert the wires in the very same order as they were with the normal 5-knob module.

I guess I will need to probe as you say "the third wire from the left" to see if it is attached to the chassis battery bank or the house battery bank. I have no idea as the wire loom goes into a mass of wires into the ceiling.

Richard,

PM @Frank McElroy.  He actually improved how his AGS was wired.  He has a 2008 Dynasty.  Wiring is identical.  Monaco was NOT always the smartest.  Our Camelots start the Genny from the HOUSE…Not like yours.

As to Ben’s….they used a wrong harness (one for the DYNASTY)  or someone was stupid or sloppy…. 

Service light on Allison only at full throttle
Mark Underhill 14 hours ago

Ok D1 then 21 then 23.  

Cable crimper
Tom Cherry 13 hours ago

There are actually TWO versions of crimpers on Amazon.  ONE is a full sized unit….it will work on #16 wires.  The other is for “big stuff” like what we typically have with #9 through 4/0 cables & BIGGER!. You can do #10 with a nIce hand held RATCHETING crimper.  Thats a whole lot MORE hand strength for anything larger.

There is a chart that gives you the MM of the dies and usually the wire size. You select the wire size.  Cut off the cable….carefully cut off the insulation.  Then do a little tiding up to get all the itty bitty wires stuffed into the terminal….sometimes you trim off a few.  You close the dies until the edges are mating…as in….the die set has NO Crack or opening between the halves.  Done.

Mine is 8 years old. Amazon dropped it.  This one has over 2000 ratings.  I use that as my buying guide.  If I were an electrician or ran a welding supply shop, I’d buy a name brand…say Klein,  I’d spend maybe 5 to 8 times as much.  Don’t need that PRO level for what I do.  I find the higher rated Amazon “stuff” to be more reliable and better made than “Harbor Freight”.  NOT always the case….but for this particular tool, I followed the advice given off line and bought the highest rated crimper in that price range.

Northern Tool may have them.

 

 

08 dynasty thermostat issue
Tom Cherry 13 hours ago

4 hours ago, vipeboy2000 said:

In the wardrobe.  One I had pulled out to test and check earlier but i swear it wasn't burned then ha.  F5 ot f6 I think marked as bedroom ceiling fan.  

Remember….good ole Monaco never marked, at least on the folks I have helped, the fuse to the Control Boards or “AC Board/Panel as HVAC.  Satellite…ceiling fan…you name it. Unfortunately on the Dynasty prints, you have to check mating connector prints and look for HVAC such…then….you start to trace that particular “PIN” or pins…once you find that print…then you follow that harness to where it mates up or is hooked up and then get the fuse number.

NOW….that is true for Camelot’s and Dynasties.  The Wire is easy to trace on the Camelot (and Diplomats and such),  Dynasty uses the pin and connector logic and not a pure “schematic”.  Older Dynasties and Windsors and such MAY have conventional schematics.  There was two GROUPS or schools in Monaco….and you never knew WHICH “format” or convention or system that was used.  For those like me that works with tracing a wire….my prints are fine.  Others that understand the connectors and pin and how to trace find the Dynasty easy to work with….the Dynasty challenges me….but I am learning….

Service light on Allison only at full throttle
jacwjames 13 hours ago

38 minutes ago, Mark Underhill said:

Ok D1 then 21 then 23.  

Page 25 of the attachment I posted says 21 & 23  says      THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, FAILED HIGH

Heater Core or AC Evaporator Issues?
LakeBob 13 hours ago

So I've dealt with this stuff for many years, usually carefully removing and replacing, and I've never had to apply new.  this was applied to the outside of the HVAC box, sealing the AC and heater core lines. 

Is this just a thick strip of butyl rubber?  Pick up at any auto parts store?   

Thanks! 

 

08 dynasty thermostat issue
Tom Cherry 13 hours ago

On 5/3/2024 at 10:03 PM, MyronTruex said:

Remember, just because a fuse looks good, you need to measure voltage on each end while it is in circuit. Check your bedroom fuse panel with a voltmeter.

I discussed my two unit system. The front is the zone 1 on mine. There is 12 volts fed to the molex pin on it. There is NOT 12 volts fed to the rear molex plug on AC zone 2.  There is 12 volts on the blue wires on both of the AC units. This feeds my furnaces.

The 12 volts goes through the molex, into the RJ plug, into the AC control board and there it supplies power though the 3 amp as far as I can tell. If the 3 amp fuse is popped, the thermostat is dead. Does not light up.

Taking the thermostat in hand to the rear one and plugging it in directly it did not light up. I found there was no voltage on that 3 amp fuse in AC unit 2 without the RJ cable bringing voltage to it. So there is no voltage getting to the circuitry needed in my rear one. Until the RJ cable feeds it. So in order to operate my rear ac in an emergency I would have to run power to that molex plug to get the thermostat to power up.

Hope this is clear and simple. 

IF your front AC is the first in line, it needs 12 volts. Until you get that voltage there you are spinning your wheels. 

 

Good point.  Monaco was usually consistent….but also sometimes NOT.  Most of the prints I pull for the 12 VDC and AC and the Data Communications connections will have 12 VDC to every control module or the “AC Board” as Dometic calls it.  Frank showed me the NOTE in the “installation” verbiage…only ONE control module needs 12 VDC.  So, Monaco gets an attaboy for redundancy.  But Frank’s 2008 hidden controller for zone 4 that supplies the middle section heat violates that redundancy.  NO 12 VDC….gets it from the Data Communications Cable run.  Go figure….always use the prints….but verify…. 

Myron, have you found or looked at the print for the 2002 Windsor.  Again. I fall into the trap of thinking that all were done the same….as in the 12VDC was a hard and fast rule to every HVAC unit….

 i have not got a good, I think, 2002 Print for it.  Never saw it in the scanned manuals….so I use others or go up and down a year.  That would be good to know. You are spot on. If Monaco cheated or if some assembler didn’t hook up or pulled the wrong cable and you don’t have the usual 12 VDC line….like to the front….problems. Unfortunately some of the “supposed to be there” wires got lost in the run.  This would not be the first time that a MUST BE HERE wire was not….we have seen this, unfortunately, too many times before….

Thanks,

OK…a side note.  Monaco did get cheap.  The Intellitec EMS HVAC Relays were SUPPOSED to switch ON and OFF the 12 VDC to every HVAC.  That is the way it was designed.  Monaco would NOT run the 12 VDC from the EMS Board….don’t ask….nobody knows. BUT then they uses the low voltage switching relays for a pure..FLA AC Current method.  Ever wonder why the EMS Boards fail??  YES, supposedly from the original owners that talked to to the engineers at rallies and shows and to the techs at the warranty centers.  Monaco knew FULL well that the 12 VDC was supposed to be switched.  OPPS….the Dometic systems were ever designed for using SWITCHED 12 VDC.  Run power to one….they all got it.  My only supposition was that each HVAC unit would have had to have a separate 12 VDC relay.  Thus the EMS would energize or kill the 12 VDC.  But then the positive from the data communications cable would have to have been “cut” for every HVAC unit….and fed or abandoned.  Then the 12 VDC going to each control module would have come through each relay…. Talk about a major abortion.

The OTHER solution….run a second 12 VDC line to each HVAC unit.  Put a 12 VDC coil on a relay rated for 20A FLA.  or maybe higher as the start up current would hit the mid 20”s.  The Thermostat on most home systems turn on 220 VAC…but the control board are not ON..  so, in this case….maybe a 30A FLA contact rating.  Then the EMS would shed properly and the HVAC relays were running at fhe right voltage and load.

NEVER HAPPENED….very few know this….and we often have folks that have that “AHA” moment when they source a relay and fix an Intellitec EMS. A case where the MPX control was NOT suited for the EMS and Monaco cheated….now you know….if you read this far and care….folks usually don’t until the EMS board fails…..

Service light on Allison only at full throttle
jacwjames 13 hours ago

What model transmission do you have? 

I found this post on IRV2 regarding TPS on a rig of your vintage (maybe). 

08 dynasty thermostat issue
MyronTruex 12 hours ago

5 hours ago, vipeboy2000 said:

In the wardrobe.  One I had pulled out to test and check earlier but i swear it wasn't burned then ha.  F5 ot f6 I think marked as bedroom ceiling fan.  

Hence my suggestion of using a test light or voltmeter while the fuses are in place. Find a good ground and touch each end of the fuses. The blade fuses have a tiny slit on top of their foot/leg so you don't need to get to the actual fuse socket. 

Over the years I have had my chops busted when a fuse had a hairline crack, or opened up under load, or I added to the issue by not putting the fuse back in place correctly. That is missing one leg of the fuse connection, thus my previous comments about shooting myself in the foot. A pointy cheap 12 volt test light that has a bulb inside is perfect for poking about fuses.

However, never poke about wires under a dash, as you can set off air bags and the results can be costly and even deadly. The last time one of my techs did this it cost 4K to replace the windshield and air bags. He still worked for me after that. I told him I just spend 4K on his education. 

Heater Core or AC Evaporator Issues?
Ivan K 12 hours ago

AC insulation tape, Prestite tape, used on exposed line and valves. Available on Amazon amongst others.

08 dynasty thermostat issue
vipeboy2000 12 hours ago

I did run through every fuse with a multimeter while they were in place .. and even pulled the ones I thought could be related .. but obviously .. I missed it somehow the first couple times lol .  Anyway , thanks for the assistance.  😀 we will have ac for the beach this week so we are ecstatic. 

08 dynasty thermostat issue
Dr4Film 12 hours ago

@Tom Cherry

I can speak for my previous 2002 Windsor (which is now owned by @Lenny D) but it may not be the same for all 2002 Windsors as mine has the Aqua-Hot System.

My AC control is located in the bedroom with Zone 1 being the rear bedroom AC area and Zone 2 being the front Living area AC. The data cable runs from the Thermostat to the rear AC first then is daisy-chained to the front AC where it stops. I never searched where the 12 VDC comes from but it has to be either from the front or rear AC wiring. There are a bunch of wires stuffed into that opening both in the front and rear.

The Dometic AC Thermostat does NOT control any of the Aqua-Hot zones. The AH has three different zones all with their own separate thermostats, one in the bedroom, one in the bathroom and a third in the hallway near the kitchen.

Now @jacwjames also has a 2002 Windsor but does not have the Aqua-Hot so his could very well be wired differently.

Are steps chassis or house powered?
Chargerman 12 hours ago

I thought he said both battery banks are fully charged?

Refrigerator outside vent cover
Chargerman 11 hours ago

My coach came from the factory with a residential fridge and it still has the rear and roof vent.

08 dynasty thermostat issue
jacwjames 11 hours ago

27 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

 

My AC control is located in the bedroom with Zone 1 being the rear bedroom AC area and Zone 2 being the front Living area AC. The data cable runs from the Thermostat to the rear AC first then is daisy-chained to the front AC where it stops. I never searched where the 12 VDC comes from but it has to be either from the front or rear AC wiring. There are a bunch of wires stuffed into that opening both in the front and rear.

 

I have a fuse for the front & rear AC's in the bedroom 12 volt fuse panel.    F19  15 amp fuse

08 dynasty thermostat issue
Dr4Film 11 hours ago

6 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I have a fuse for the front & rear AC's in the bedroom 12 volt fuse panel.    F19  15 amp fuse

My 02 Windsor has the same fuse but I never searched its routing path, whether it goes to the rear AC or Front AC or possibly it goes to both locations.

08 dynasty thermostat issue
Tom Cherry 11 hours ago

3 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

@Tom Cherry

I can speak for my previous 2002 Windsor (which is now owned by @Lenny D) but it may not be the same for all 2002 Windsors as mine has the Aqua-Hot System.

My AC control is located in the bedroom with Zone 1 being the rear bedroom AC area and Zone 2 being the front Living area AC. The data cable runs from the Thermostat to the rear AC first then is daisy-chained to the front AC where it stops. I never searched where the 12 VDC comes from but it has to be either from the front or rear AC wiring. There are a bunch of wires stuffed into that opening both in the front and rear.

The Dometic AC Thermostat does NOT control any of the Aqua-Hot zones. The AH has three different zones all with their own separate thermostats, one in the bedroom, one in the bathroom and a third in the hallway near the kitchen.

Now @jacwjames also has a 2002 Windsor but does not have the Aqua-Hot so his could very well be wired differently.

Well NOW….isn’t that interesting….here is my take on it.  And you might have just offered a good insight….

OK…your PREVIOUS Windsor,  Myron has stated…..and he is a great tech….no 12 VDC to rear.  Comes in on the front.  The control module distributed the 12 VDC back to the thermostat.  It also sent it the other way to the rear.  Maybe…pure speculation….Monaco used the ONE WIRE 12 VDC feed.  That is all, and this has been tested, that is needed.  It also squares with the installation instructions.  It works.  Myron is right.  If you LOST the 12 VDC pair in the Data Communications Cable….then, you would lose the unit.  NOW…run a hot wire or 12 VDC to the rear.  First….reset to factory…..get an FF.  At that point, then the OTHER 2 pair is running the MPX.  Since the rear has 12 VDC….then a faulty data cable (open in the 12 VDC) will work….but only if the MPX pair is OK.  That is how I UNDERSTAND and from the manuals and also folks here and helping troubleshoot.

NOW…as to the PREVIOUS Aquahot in your Windsor.  My “knowledge base” is for a model or two newer…but if I assume that the control boards look similar…maube not as many zones, but similar, Richard, to your 06 Dynasty…here is how it would (should have worked).  Each individual thermostat was only an ON/OFF unit.  Totally MECHANICAL….not powered.  When the temp dropped below the set point….say set was 70 and it dropped to 67, the mercury containing bulb, had two WIRES in the “drop” or mercury.  Same as turning on a wall switch,  the thermostat was “calling” for heat.  Once the temp hit 70….the mercury in the thermostat only had ONE wire….in it.  Like turning off a light switch.  The newer AH boards have TWO Terminals or WIRES for a “thermostat” connection.  There is NO DC or whatever.  Use a paperclip and jumper….the pump starts and the blower (for that zone) starts.  

Fast forward to your 2006 Dynasty.  I’m…SPECULATING….Monaco eventually did do the belt and suspenders….and ran 12 VDC to every AC control module.  Why Frank’s Dynasty had none???  Ask the engineer.  The PRINT does not show it….I think….and it ain’t there.  I don’t have my laptop on vacation so the 25 sets of model year wiring diagrams I downloaded aren’t with me….I’m on my IPAD.

OK…Richard, here is how your system works….I will NOT go down the hidden controller or ZONE 4.  BUT…. If you have TWO thermostats or one….it works this way.  Each Zone controller has a FURNACE DIP switch.  If one ZONE or any ZONE shows FURNACE or HEAT….that controller’s DIP is CLOSED…..that is how it works.  If you had the NO AQUAHOT version.l..there is a front and rear furnace,  the Front zone has HEAT/FURNACE.  The controller closes a dry set of wires….they run to a furnace control board…like a light switch…it comes on,

In your case, wherever or whatever ZONES has a HEAT or FURNACE option….there is ONE pair of wires going to a particular zone on the AH control panel.  As I said…jumper those two screws…paperclip….the pump and fan come on.

In the 07 Dyansty and up….Monaco added a “hidden Module”.  In the owner’s manual….there is a chart that shows the zone numbers….which thermostat….if dual and which zone where the heat works.  The MIDDLE ZONE, on the 07 & higher….have a special ZONE for AquaHot or HEAT.  There is a standalone controller….when you set whichever zone for the middle to HEAT….the hidden controller….with a remote temp sensor….takes over and turns ON or OFF the circuit for heat.

That is the way it is wired…..they way it works.

NOW…Frank and I helped a very astute tech that had installed his own new Dometic units and the Dometic CCC2 thermostat(s….may have been two).  He had NO AC in the middle.  Finally, we got an update.  He had some how “pushed or tucked” the two outgoing wires to the AH under something or whatever.  He communicated that it WORKED before….not NOW.  Had to be a DOMETIC problem.  He “lost” the AH wires.  He insisted….MONACO left them out.  Now…there is NO WAY it would have worked before….  In his install, he lost them….and did it up right…but was also extremely confident….he made no mistakes.  After a while….he went back….maybe to try to “PULL” the wires that Monaco forgot.  OPPS….he had buried them….hooked them up.  NOW IT WORKS.

That is NOT uncommon….techs do it…novices do it…I’ve lost a wire….we all can “do it”.  But….if you rely on the prints….and it worked before….it has to be operator error.

This is a simple or complex system,…based on your skill and experience.  Our goal, as moderators….help folks understand….and that is what Daniel is starting to absorb. I think it took me at least 3 years just to begin to learn about the MPX and I had installed Home systems and troubleshot….now, I learn or confirm, from each topic…

NEVER KNEW that the 2002 AH had separate Heat Thermostats….THANKS!,
 

08 dynasty thermostat issue
Dr4Film 11 hours ago

@Tom Cherry

Yes, my 06 Dynasty is completely different. There are currently two Dometic 5 Button CCC's which do ALL of the heating & cooling controls for the coach. The rear AC is a newer Penguin II but they installed a converter board into it so it would be compatible with the 5 Button CCC. I have the new board tucked away which will go back in when the other two AC's get updated to Penguin II's.

The rear CCC controls all of the functions for the Rear AC and the Middle AC. The Front AC has its own 5 Button CCC.

When the time comes I will eventually upgrade to Micro-Air Thermostats once all of the AC's are the same.

08 dynasty thermostat issue
Tom Cherry 10 hours ago

3 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

@Tom Cherry

Yes, my 06 Dynasty is completely different. There are currently two Dometic 5 Button CCC's which do ALL of the heating & cooling controls for the coach. The rear AC is a newer Penguin II but they installed a converter board into it so it would be compatible with the 5 Button CCC. I have the new board tucked away which will go back in when the other two AC's get updated to Penguin II's.

The rear CCC controls all of the functions for the Rear AC and the Middle AC. The Front AC has its own 5 Button CCC.

When the time comes I will eventually upgrade to Micro-Air Thermostats once all of the AC's are the same.

Sounds like a plan to me.  You got it.

My approach would be the same for my Camelot….except…one dead soldier….NEW ARMY.

Now….this is MY OPINION….and my circumstances and my “skill set”. I am going to pay my trusted tech to do it….I could do it…but I fix things that are more complex and don’t have anyone to help with the toting and lifting…..or a good helper.

NOW….having said that…I know a lot more about the ins ans out and MPX “uniqueness” than he probably does.  I know that if trouble occurs….and Imhave the complete Dometic package, the Dometic dealer tech support will assist him.

IF there was a “BLACK BOX” tester that one could hook up on an install and then get idiot lights or whatever….that the RJ Data Cable to the thermostat is “working”….and he had one….then i MIGHT consider the MicroAir.  Since I have personally talked to tech support at Dometic, MicroAir….and also Coleman to see about making a RecPro work…. I don’t want to have to start changing control modules and such.

My ONLY criticism of MicroAir….other than not knowing the reliability of their units.  Their design engineers know way LESS about how a Dometic system works than most who read and learn here.  They just “tore apart” the 5 button and 10 button and fed it data on a bench and then cloned the functions.  They have NARY a clue as to what happens on the other end….all they know is how to send a coded signal.  NOW…maybe, like Frank did for the Kong’b….the circuit designers bought the control modules and breadboarded up a system.  OK….that’s how they did it,

BUT…the two techs….in 2 separate phone calls said….we do not “understand” how the MPX works.  We know that our units, regardless of type or vendors, will interchange.  We do NOT, at our level, know how nor will we trouble shoot.  The requirements are that the owner must have a reliable and functional downstream system….or in your case….a Dometic system…. CC CCC or CCC2.  Thanks for calling.

We have already had issues where the folks here fixed or identified the issue….a bad Controller and MicroAir was clueless….but would ship a replacement…. Sort or like you having a big hole in an aluminum wheel…tire will not hold air.  You don’t know it.  The tire shop gives you a new tire….but don’t know how to test.  YES…my warped logic….but, if it is all Dometic….no finger pointing and a source for fixing.  Maybe a tech might…but techs seemed to be “stumped” more and more and don’t want to work on our legacy units.

I watched a tech use a laptop and install some gee whiz complex upgrade to a high dollar rig.  He knew it all or was on the phone and ran the diagnostic.

BUT…asked a question about a simple amps and volts issue on a hydraulic unit…said….you need a new unit….we don’t really troubleshoot… Mobile techs are the same.  Been in caravans and the techs installed new parts until it worked…

MY OPINION….others will differ…

Honda CRV
jimmcpheters 10 hours ago

I am selling my 2014 CR V , AWD with 96k miles on odometer and 45k towing. Had a bra on the front full time, one minor accident according to a vehicle history report, which is correct , but in darn good condition. $15,900 which includes Roadmaster base plate.  Contact jnjmcp@gmail.com

 

Jim McPheters

08 Dip

2014 CR V for sale
jimmcpheters 10 hours ago

One owner, 96k miles on odometer, 45k miles towing, AWD , EX-L , includes Roadmaster baseplate. One minor accident in 2018 or 2017, can't remember which. IN great shape, have 3 vehicle history reports , chrome wheels, gray or Urban Titanium according to Honda.  $15,900. Garaged and in southern Calif.  jnjmcp@gmail.com Pics available upon request

 

Jim McPheters

08 Dip

Steps won't extend
Doug and Nicki 10 hours ago

I have found that it is best not to lubricate the slide rails on the steps. I use brake cleaner, which is in a pressurized can, to spray the rails from underneath to keep them clean. For me, this keeps them from binding. Brake cleaner is not harmful to the rails.

To install coolant shut off valves or not?
DZZippy 9 hours ago

7 hours ago, georgecederholm said:

Kurtis,

I had the exact same experience. During the replacement (AHE-100-03S to D600), I picked up fuel line valves at the local Napa. Several years later, when I went to the storage area to run the furnace (people think Phoenix is always warm, but almost every year we have at least one short period of freeze warnings), I had a fuel leak. I replaced the defective valve and it’s twin with simple barbed unions, found real brass ball valves online, and will install those while I’m doing my periodic Aqua-Hot maintenance this summer.

My sympathies!!

Are steps chassis or house powered?
Jlalpaugh 8 hours ago

Yes both banks are fully charged and tested. 

ISM Radiator Hoses
Venturer 8 hours ago

I do not know the coolant history of our 2006 Executive. One of the radiator hoses looks suspicious, so out of caution, I would like to replace coolant and all of the hoses. I've located Gates part numbers used on a 2005 Navigator, but wonder if that configuration would be the same for our 06 Executive? I would like to have all in hand before I take it in for this service to save time. Thanks 

ISM Radiator Hoses
Dr4Film 7 hours ago

Are they soft and mushy in places? If not then why replace them?

All of the coolant hoses are still original except for two small places that were replaced on my previous Windsor.

Don't know the history of the coolant hoses on our Dynasty but I check them occasionally.

ISM Radiator Hoses
Venturer 7 hours ago

It's more for "peace of mind". If I drain and replace the antifreeze, it would be an ideal time to replace the hoses and not have to wonder about them while I own the coach.   

Correct fuel filters for ISL 400
Paul Brown Jr 7 hours ago

will the same fuel /water separator filters fit my 1996 8.3?

ISM Radiator Hoses
PeterSchweizer 7 hours ago

If you have a Cummins engine contact the. With your engine serial #. Ther typically several small hoses around the engine that should be replaced as well. The hoses from engine to Radiator n back to engine  are typically supplied by coach manufacturers, so.e ca.e be standard industry hoses and or random lengths of stock hose lengths. Just make sure they are coolant hoses not fuel. Also the marine industry suppliers can have them as well.

ISM Radiator Hoses
JohnC3 6 hours ago

I found my hoses at the NAPA Truck parts. They have a book of Hose and I found all of my 90deg bend hoses were the same. Then I just got a 3 ft length of Kenworth straight hose for the several straight couplings. 5 elbows and 3 straight pieces as I recall. Ended up going to a couple of stores to get them but the install was pretty simple. I replaced mine after blowing a top radiator hose (an elbow) on memorial day on I-10. Was back on the road 90 minutes later with the new hose installed and the same type of fluid in the radiator (Prestone command purple).replaced the remaining at the next week long stop. NAPA rocks!

footrest on passenger chair
TomV48 6 hours ago

Yup.  That's how it works on our 2005 Ambassador 

Cable crimper
StephenW 6 hours ago

I recently had the need to clean and paint my battery trays and replace my dead chassis battery.  I used Tom Cherry suggestion and got the Hyclat hydraulic crimper on Amazon.  The crimper worked great just like advertised. 

Thank you Tom!

where did you put (install) your fan(s)?
John C 5 hours ago

In my "old" 2017 coach with so so looking cabinets, I installed 3 wall fans on the molding, wall, and cabinet walls, it was really effective in turns of air circulation and cool the coach even without running the a/c, but with this "new" 2007 Dynasty, I really hate to drill any holes on the beautiful cabinets and there is no space available on the wall, pretty much all wall space has been taken by the cabinets.

There is a ceiling in the bedroom but it is very weak.

One solution is put the desk fan on the kitchen counter , dinning table and the counter next to the TV, the problem is you have to remove those every time your drive and you need to find place to store it.

Another option is of course run the A/C. but when it is not that hot, the fan will more than enough.

Just curious has any one use fans on the coach and how you do it.

Thank you

how to mount solar panel brakcets with screws/lag bolts
John C 5 hours ago

On 5/2/2024 at 1:43 PM, Just Jim said:

Back to the original question... If you really want to find the frame then you could invest in this.  It is a pretty cool device to have for seeing into walls. 

TV Cabinet Undergoes Weight Loss Surgery
Wanderlust 5 hours ago

Well I'm almost complete with modifying the TV cabinet on our new to me 2002 Dynasty.  The prior owner was pretty proud of mounting a 40 inch flat screen behemoth to the front of the already monolithic CRT cabinet.  I wasn't proud of it at all.  Removing it wasn't terrible with the exception of the 20 or staples I had to saw through at the front of the cabinet and the one screw that was so buried that I was certain it had been removed.  Trimming it would have been easier if it was a square/rectangular cabinet.  The slanted angle at the front made it a bit more of a challenge.  I ended up trimming about 6 inches off the depth and 4.5 inches off the height.  I have a good skill saw with a guide/fence and a radial arm saw as well.  A table saw would have been nice, but it was enough to do the job.  I used an aluminum C channel from Home Depot that I painted black to trim the front edge.  The angle at the miters isn't perfect.  It was pretty tough to get dead on with the aforementioned cabinet shape.  Our seats are out getting reupholstered in black so it should  really update the coach. I had to move the vent fan up a couple of inches to provide room for the TV mount which I attached to a framework made from the waste.  I was able to trim one of the waste pieces to cover the hole damaged vinyl in the ceiling.  There is about a 3/4 inch border that is slightly depressed from the old cabinet but I can live with it.  With luck it may rebound a little.  The TV is a TCL ROKU TV, $128 bucks from WalMart.  It was the only 32 inch that would fit inside the cabinet.  I now just need to film the two inch gap at the bottom.  I'm hoping an ultrathin soundbar will do the trick. I painted the interior of the cabinet flat black so you don't see contrasting colors in any gaps around the TV.  Overall I'm pretty happy with the final finish and am ecstatic about the way it opens up the front of the rig.  Sorry if the photos aren't that great.  It was dark out.  

TV Cabinet Undergoes Weight Loss Surgery
Rikadoo 24 minutes ago

Very nice👍

where did you put (install) your fan(s)?
Just Jim 18 minutes ago

The standard "attic" fan in the ceiling does a good job of circulating the air.  I can't recall exactly what its called, but usually has a plastic cover and a thermostat on the wall.  Perhaps you have not noticed it?

Steps won't extend
Rikadoo 3 minutes ago

So Jim usually i discovered i remove the screws holding the motor, once the motor is out the step should be able to fully extend. If the steps do pull out to position with no problem then its just the motor. As far as lubing them i have two prefferences of lube. On the pivit points i use Tri-Flo it works AMAZINGLY well and lasts 3 to 4 months in dry weather, or my second best soon to take over #1 position is the Boeing T9 spray ( reason not #1 yet is i test it on my own stuff then evaluate how well it holds up) what i like about it is that when dry it leaves a wax residue for parts to slide on, unlike others that leave oil. So for now im testing it on the slide rails of the steps

New Downloads

Blue Sea ML-ACR
Frank McElroy Wednesday at 10:00 AM

Blue Sea Magnetic Latching - Automatic Charging Relay (ML-ACR) Application Overview and Installation Instructions.

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