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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Frank McElroy
Chuck Greco
Bar SR Ranch
Discussions
Jdw12345
It’s not a bad idea to replace the hose clamps also, just make sure you get HD Truck hose clamps, constant torque clamps are usually available at HD Truck parts dealers, Peterbilt, Kenworth, ect, , jmo.
Tom Cherry
22 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:Rob, I have the same unit as you. My Aqua hot has been working perfectly since I bought my Coach 3 years ago until a few weeks ago. It would go through the start up cycle but wouldn’t fire and after a few minutes would shut down. I think my control board is starting to go bad because after checking things and trying to run it multiple times over a few days I shut all power off to it to do a reset and now it’s been working fine. Louisville engineering on eBay sells a test box that will isolate most problems on the Aquahot and I think I’m going to get one but they are a little pricey. Good luck with your trouble shooting, hope you get it figured out.
This is a classic sign of the nozzle being gummed up or the filter clogged. Mine will run 2 years or so,…then…NOPE. The standard service is to replace the Nozzle and the filter and to adjust the “burner” or reposition it.
I would not start to chase anything….until I has that done or watched a video and did that myself. Then, read the manual or find a video and start to troubleshoot the startup cycle as well as some of the common failure items.
top flight
Thank you all for the detailed replies much appreciated. Looks like mine is bolted into the plate without having to deal with washers & nuts underneath the floor.
Tom Cherry
20 hours ago, jimtaylorville said:Front door steps, when opening front door appear to attempt opening but don't move. Orange light comes on, and you can see the motor engaging the gear, moving it slightly. Closing the door, motor reverses, gear moves very slightly, motor stops, light goes off. I am assuming controller good. I oiled all pivot points and tapped with hammer. I see 4 screws to remove step, 2 however recessed over step between step and inside step, tough to reach. Is step binding, motor bad, or possibly bad controller? 15 year old coach, purchase new steps? Thanks for your assistance!
ODDS ARE…bad motor. Mine failed (same year as yours) in a similar manner. Would start to move or such….but never locked in. Whether it starts to move and only a little or moves almost to full opening, but stops…. It is a SAFETY HAZARD. Mine “looked” OK, until my 100 pound 16 YO GD stepped and the steps collapsed and retracted. She was able to catch herself and did not fall….her 75 YO GM might not have been so lucky. The motor is designed to go full cycle.
NOW…there is a “current limiting” citcuit. I think that is in the motor….and not the controller.
There is a very simple….but “often not used….until new parts lime a controller is replaced….and nothing changed….” Coachstep or Lippert Coachstep trouble shooting guide. You do not have to remove the step….just follow the simple “instructions”.
Follow the instructions in the troubleshooting guide or section at the end.
You do NOT have to drop the step to install a motor. It ain’t the easiest task…but 90% or more do it. The techs do it. The only caveat…a new motor, which can be purchased many places and from many “offshore” vendors will have to be CAREFULLY positioned. I ordered a “stickered” OEM motor from ebay. The three hole bosses or the 3 holes where the bolts go through the motor and then screw into the frame….were “off”. I gave up. CW down the road had a “Stromberg Carlson” OEM motor for $20 more and I paid $75 for the labor….
SOME have carefully drilled out or used a circular file to open up the holes. Just don’t go in there and drill them to say “1/4”. The motor is supposed to be rigidity mounted. If you open them up so there is say 1/8” clearance in every hole…the motor is gonna shift or move. You take it slow and get it to barely fit. Mine had two holes that perfectly aligned… always the same one. I would have carefully opened that hole (it is a zinc die cast housing….easy to file off a little)…until the screw engaged the frame. It was 100 degrees….could have been a small burr in that hole,
NOW do NOT USE THE STEP. Assuming you have lubricated the pivot points and have lubed the “rack”. Everyone has their pet spray. The Boeshield is the darling of the “bikers” or cyclist…. Triflow is the darling of shooters….and professional locksmiths.
If there is rust and corrosion on the pivot bolts or points, then Liquid wrench works well. Many here have a witches brew that they swear by. As long as it was working snd moving slightly…a Liquid wrench would be my choice…. But later on …a good lube. WD40 will also work. But LW and WD40 are not “leave in place” lubes…they clean…and free up. The Boeshield and Triflow are not penetrants…they lube. The “bikers” say that the Boeshield is “stickier” than Triflow…and one does NOT want a sticky lube used in a firearm’s action.
I use garage door spray on the rack and the pivot points….
JUST QUIT USING IT…until you determine the cause. Rarely, very rarely, is it anything but a motor or a little rusted pivots….so it is easily repaired.
Venturer
Thanks to all. I was hoping to come up with hoses before the switch to save time in the shop but looks like I might have to get them off first and match with new.
veraken
If you are looking to replace your battery cables, here is a source where you can order them to the size/connectors you need.
where did you put (install) your fan(s)?
Dr4Film
@Just Jim that unit is the Kool-O-Matic Ceiling Exhaust Fan. It does a great job of bringing in cool outside air when you open a few windows.
@John C Your other option is to use the Fan Only setting on your rooftop AC's.
Dr4Film
10 hours ago, Paul Brown Jr said:will the same fuel /water separator filters fit my 1996 8.3?
What specific filter numbers are you asking about?
pulsarjab
I have learned a lot from Myron, through the years. He has a great approach to problem resolution, and I used his approach to isolate and repair our four button thermostat in our 2000 Diplomat. Our Furnace quit working and it it took two weeks to resolve all of the issues. Here is a list. Both AC's still worked.
1. Thermostat on wall had a broken pin in the RJ11 jack.
2. The blue control wires in the furnace were shorted out, maybe eaten by varmint.
3. Control unit in AC would click but no furnace, Burnt trace on control board.
4. 15 amp circuit breaker on furnace was shot.
Note: we talk about phone cord for the RJ11 jack. It is not a phone cord, it is a modem cord, same jack, reversed wires
Tracing the 12 volt volt control system was the path that helped identify all the issues. There were no burnt fuses. Trouble shooting and testing were complicated by the time delay relays, they are everywhere in the circuit. Documenting everything along the way, including the wiring, which was a challenge. Example, the blue control wires plug into house wiring different colors at the AC control box, get to the furnace where they plug into blue control wires. That will really mess with your mind. Saved all of my documentation, so I will have a good starting point next time.
dl_racing427
Looks great.
I need to do this to my old Dynasty.
MIRIAM
This just happened to me on Thursday when packing up to leave. Turned out to be the motor/gear and VERY easy to fix. I could hear the motor, but wasn't moving (after first few times with us trying to "see") and it ended up being able to move freely (shouldn't be able to) I got home and ordered the replacement motor ($60) with teeth (they sell some without) on Amazon and just replaced it Saturday. They had some cheaper, but I wanted it next day, so paid the extra $15-20. The complete replacement took me about 20-30 minutes. I was amazed how easy it was and works good as new.
MyronTruex
I was bitten by the missed fuse syndrome in the bedroom closet as well. Chased that sucker for too long. Can't remember the fault at the time but it was a blown fuse in that panel.
It is hard to bend and turn in there with a closet full of junk.
So I found some fuses that light up when they blow and of course have not had one blown since. But if one does, hopefully the light will show me the way.
cbr046
12 hours ago, Jlalpaugh said:Yes both banks are fully charged and tested.
Check your ignition relay in the Monaco Box (1 or 2, can't remember) in the Front Run Bay. Swap it with another relay to test.
Keep us posted.
- bob
Jlalpaugh
I am not very mechanical. Can you show me a picture of what a relay might look like please.
cbr046
14 minutes ago, Jlalpaugh said:I am not very mechanical. Can you show me a picture of what a relay might look like please.
Relays - Magnum AGS
amphi_sc
Just curious why some people have that AGS voltage knob set so high (12.0-12.1) as when a medium load such as watching TV with some lights on and fridge door opening & closing so the compressor is cooling will often drop my light to medium 45-50 amp draw (not talking about microwave load draw) voltage down to 11.8 underload, but when the load drops to 10 amps thereabouts my "semi" resting voltage recovers to over 12v. If that knob was set that high on my AGS the generator would be starting under light to medium load when the "semi" resting voltage would still be near 12.2-12.3 thus still 60%-70% battery remaining. I was under the impression that down to 50% at rest under a no load situation was conservative and the Lifeline 'resting SOC' chart shows green down to 40%. I use the term "semi resting" to mean the normal parasitic loads are still present thus not a true completely disconnected state for a couple hours to get the real resting voltage. Adding to the above I have found the voltage displayed on the Magnum remote tends to be slightly lower than the voltage actually measured at the battery terminals. And often the Aladdin displayed voltage is significantly different than when measured at the battery terminals.
96 EVO
Mine is set somewhere mid 11 volts, but, I can think of a reason some would want theirs 12-12.2.
Some coaches use house battery power to start the generator. House bank too low, not enough amps to turn gen over.
JohnC3
1 hour ago, Venturer said:Thanks to all. I was hoping to come up with hoses before the switch to save time in the shop but looks like I might have to get them off first and match with new.
I have an 2008 ISL, so Mine will probably be different than the ISM, But I was able to measure (most) of my hoses beforehand (there was one straight hose that I didn't find until I was taking everything off.). My hoses were 2.5" diameter (Yours could be different). I found all my hoses the same diameter and the coolant path was composed of several metal tubes with rubber being used only if the run was short or there was a bend involved. All my bends were close to 90 degrees. I was able to measure the arm length of the bend and how far the metal tube was inside the rubber bend to ensure that every bend was similar (AGAIN, Yours may differ). I believe it might be worth crawling under the rig and checking. The coolant hoses should all be over 2" for the main path. Smaller if you use engine coolant for the front heater core.(I did not replace my heater hoses).
good luck.
2003 Dynasty
Thanks Tom for the words of wisdom. Makes total sense. Will get that done.
amphi_sc
I had a similar condition once on my "Coach Step" brand when the motor/gear bound up for some reason. Unbolted the motor (and heard a pop) and the steps moved freely. Tested the motor and it ran fine both ways. So I put it all back together and it worked fine (for years). No idea what must have temporarily gotten out of alignment. Give unbolting or temporarily loosening the motor a shot. And while you are there take a mirror and look at how the motor engages the gear teeth. Years later and a different motor later I saw the engagement of the teeth was about 1/2 so I added a flat washer on top of the gear plate to lower it just a tad and the engagement alignment was much better.
With all that said your rig might not have the same "Coach Step" brand I have.
MIRIAM
I had hoped mine to be simple like that, too. We tried a few things and because it moved back and forth freely, we knew it wasn't that. We tried googling and testing a few different things that worked for others. Once it came off, we could tell the difference and ours wouldn't "stop" or lock like it's supposed to. The gear/teeth on the motor piece of ours would move freely which we learned from new one shouldn't happen. I bought the motor and kept trying other things in the meantime with knowing Amazon would take the motor back if it wasn't that....covered all bases.
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Installing a new Victron inverter and associated accessories that require new cables.
I purchased a hydraulic crimper, cables, lugs, and shrink wrap from Amazon and it works great on the new cables I had to make.
Thanks all for your input.
AMZCNC Hydraulic Wire Crimper... Steps won't extend
Jetjockey
I have replaced motors and worked on the lippert controlled step often. I would not recommend enlarging or redrilling any holes. Doing so precludes ever doing it correctly. The correct parts are available if you search some. Non fitting parts are typical of eBay. Many windows motors are the same motor. I have never had any trouble getting a direct replacement. E trailer would have them. Might not be as cheap as eBay but they will fit. Some eBay are just stickered witho oem stickers to fool us.
Keeping the pivots lubed good advice. I would use breakfree or something similar . I do not consider wd40 a penetrant ,lubricant or preservative. It is one of the poorest choices..better than nothing but that is it. It does not prevent corrosion or have a very long life as preservative. Washes out with any water. I use it as a solvent or parts wash.
Jim Wallace
I installed a 40inch TV in the front of my Dutchstar and was always hitting my head coming up the stairs. Plus it just didn't look good. So when I bought the 2002 Windsor, the front TV was flush just like yours and it will always stay that way.
Jetjockey
Go to Louisville engineering and purchase a simple to use test box. It will test burner function and point you in the correct direction for repair. I. The long run it will save you time and money. Your control board can become intermittent . Louisville can test and rebuild those also. As they can the burner control box.
Benjamin
Summit racing has an excellent search function for radiator hoses (and other stuff like brake hoses) based on size, length etc. You can check your numbers against what's on there currently, may need to cross reference your numbers to gates first. That will give you a confirmation of the sizes of the numbers you have, or the search can find a hose that matches, or one you can cut your needed hose out of. If you're replacing proactively, go with gates or other top names, don't go replacing OEM hoses with no name china hoses.
Jetjockey
Rob. I could send you my test box if you want to try it.
try tapping on the circuit board as you run the start cycle.. sometimes a bad transistor will work after doing this. For a while or for quite some time.
Rob Monda
I just sent them a request. That would be great if you could My cell is 9177099266 if you want to text and I could give you an address
Wanderlust
Here is a better photo. It really streamlined the cockpit.
More Chassis AC Evaporator Questions
8thDegree
The chassis AC in my 97 Dynasty has not worked properly for about 5 years now. I have been to multiple shops and have spent over 5k trying to fix it but it still has the same problems that I first encountered all those years ago. Basically, when you get freon added it only holds for a few days and then the compressor won't even spin. I know that there is a pretty good size leak somewhere, but the paid professionals have not been able to find it.
Upon my inspection yesterday, (several times dye has been added to the freon) I found what I think is a leak from the evaporator. However, I am not sure so I wanted to get some advice here. I used a UV flashlight and glasses and found a glowing yellow spot on what I think is the AC evaporator thru a hole in the bottom of the plastic box that contains the AC and heater core in the generator compartment on the passenger side. Here is a picture of the box:
Here is what I saw using the UV flashlight (it lights up more with the yellow glasses on).
I also purchased an electronic freon detector. I turned the sensitivity up and pushed it near the yellow area and it did indeed go off.
Now for my questions... Could this be antifreeze (heater core is also in the box)?
Next, how difficult is it to remove this box?? Looks like lots of lines going in and out of it. Saw another post recently by Lake Bob and saw that he removed his, but one of the responses spoke about how it was not for the faint of heart...
Lastly, the plastic housing box has 2 rectangular holes at the bottom. Is this normal, or are these supposed to be able to close the outside air? I always assumed that "Max AC" would shut off the outside air and recirculate the air from the inside to make it cooler.
Thanks for any suggestions or advice!!
Warren
96 EVO
Same!
Use ceiling fans to exhaust warm ceiling air, and pull in outside air through open windows / door.
Bill C
1 hour ago, Jetjockey said:Go to Louisville engineering and purchase a simple to use test box. It will test burner function and point you in the correct direction for repair. I. The long run it will save you time and money. Your control board can become intermittent . Louisville can test and rebuild those also. As they can the burner control box.
Hi Freddie, is this the correct web site, I reached out to them and they don't know what I am talking about.
where did you put (install) your fan(s)?
John C
Thank you for all the responses, yes, I do have 3 Exhausting fans, but they can't compare the wall fan directly point to you when running.
I guess I will just use desk fan, I will put a double site glue on it so I will run when I am driving.
timaz996
Your detector should go off in that open door if your evaporator is leaking freon.
gjh2916
Richard
Thanks for the service manual it worked for my RF18 frig. I finally diagnosed my problem, I have a 134A freon leak, I added freon, frig went back to normal operation for a couple of hours, then it went back to no cool in freezer. checked freon level and it is low again. No visible signs of freon leak, frig 7 years old but only actually run for about a year total time. Guess it's time for a new frig.
Martinvz
Scott, How did you disassemble the cabinets to remove the center box?
I tried to remove mine but there must have bee another 50 screws that I could not find. That box just would not move.
Paul J A
The Navigator, Executive and Signature share the same Roadmaster chassis.
They all had the ISM as the standard Engine in 2006.
Frank McElroy
On 4/17/2024 at 10:11 AM, Bar SR Ranch said:Thanks to Bob Mackie (Bob125) I was able to purchase one master and two slave modules from him, those 3 plus 5 other modules that I have are headed to Frank to be checked to confirm they are all working correctly.
Hopefully after I get all of the modules back from Frank and correct some wiring the coach will be back to OEM.
Well I just finished another project. Of the one master and 5 slave plus 2 spare slave modules, only one slave tested bad. A circuit board from one of the spare slave modules was reprogrammed to replace the bad one. Steve also wanted the window shade option programmed into a module that had a blank slot. Also made up a few missing cables and sent spare connectors and crimp pins to repair other damaged connectors. The set of working modules was sent to Steve today.
Venturer
1 hour ago, Paul J A said:The Navigator, Executive and Signature share the same Roadmaster chassis.
They all had the ISM as the standard Engine in 2006.
That's what I was hoping for, as I found those part numbers for an 05 Navigator. Hope the year difference doesn't matter. Thanks to all.
Chuck Greco
Frank did an outstanding/amazing job on my master/slave switches. My wife and l are very thankful after sweating the situation out, praying we did not have a boat anchor. Thanks again Frank...
Chuck and Donna Greco
Chargerman
The brain surgeon saves yet another patient
Dr4Film
@gjh2916 Glad that it helped but sorry to hear about the bad news and outcome for your fairly new RF18 fridge. That's a real bummer!
The Samsung RF-197 I had installed in the Windsor back in 2012 is still working to this day. The new owner had to put in a new sensor in the upper fridge cooling area that had failed this past year. Plus the RF-197 that came with the Dynasty we purchased two years ago is still working great.
Tom Cherry
52 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:Well I just finished another project. Of the one master and 5 slave plus 2 spare slave modules, only one slave tested bad. A circuit board from one of the spare slave modules was reprogrammed to replace the bad one. Steve also wanted the window shade option programmed into a module that had a blank slot. Also made up a few missing cables and sent spare connectors and crimp pins to repair other damaged connectors. The set of working modules was sent to Steve today.
YES,
Frank is obviously the SKILLED tech on the K'Berg system. I have seen other pictures that he texted me of his "RIGS". From my warped sense of humor viewpoint... I had the thought that if I looked hard enough, we could see the ghost of Steve Jobs and perhaps a flashback with Bill Gates....as they BOTH did their tinkering in a garage or their dorm room. The ability to figure out complex electronics and resolve seemingly impossible things lives on...
We once had a member who's job it was to "FIGURE OUT" why a high priced (think hundreds of thousands of the Defense Department Funds) board "FAILED" and what the company had to do to prevent a reoccurrence. These boards were from God only knows how many different products that one of the MAJOR (maybe largest) Defense Contractors in the US. This individual was one of a team of Ex Military Techs that were hired locally by this company. When the DoD would return a failed board....say, they were testing a new version of a Tomahawk missile...and there was more electronics on it that K'Berg ever dreamt. The DoD wanted it analyzed. The Designer had to write up a corrective action program to ensure that the next time they pushed the FIRE button....the missile launched. The EE-PhD's that designed them KNEW the circuits. However, they (er SOME...not all...but MOST) were somewhat less than well versed when it came to actually building their creations. They specified all the component and the circuits. THEN, the PCB Guru's had to design the board and then figure out HOW to build it. SOME of these were HAND BUILT... Some were high demand...so there was a small automated or semi-automated assembly line.
BUT...when it FAILED....it went to the "SKUNK WORKS" in the basement. These folks had to examine it with microscopes and figure out if there were cracks or open circuits in the traces....or whether a capacitor failed and started the chain reaction. Our Ex Member was a whiz at this...but he said he and his buddies suffered from "BRAIN BURN OUT"...and the circuits were so complex...
Every time I see one of Frank's "projects"... I think about my friend, who we often call or email and his job after his service.. It takes a special skill and Frank's spans the Theoretical or Design....down to the BOARD....something that is RARE.
We are lucky to have him. He also helps me learn so that I can assist others without his guidance....and for that I am eternally grateful.
FINAL comment. I have a "control" issue with my well and residential pump and also an upgraded (now required) pressure switch and the "bypass and refresh" loop installed by my friend, a Professional Geologist that works on large cities wells and is one of the experts well known in the South East. Finally, I designed a simple relay controlled solenoid system that will resolve DW's "we ain't got any pressure". She said... Now THAT is brilliant.....wire it up and get it running. I took that opportunity to tell her that the knowledge that I gained here....even though I had done all sorts of process control and was also an EE for 2 years....the PRACTICAL here.... was what helped me simplify the final version....and make it work.
So, much of the electrical and electronics advice that is given is thanks to Frank and also the input of others....and we are blessed to have him....along with others... Paul Whittle, for example, that are well versed in the Intellitec MPX control systems in all Dynasties (Circa 2006) and above....
GREAT JOB...as usual...
Tom Cherry
From a Moderator's standpoint, it is suggested that the back and forth for information and such an exchanging phones be done in a PM. That keeps this from being cluttered. Once the issue is resolved, then post what happened. There appears to be three members involved...but I may be wrong. One PM from either one to the other two and then the issue can be resolved or exchange phone numbers...
From MEMORY.... We have a person who has a relative that works for is affiliated with Louisville Engineering. Many folks have used Louisville Engineering for remanufactured or refurbished AH boards. They have been a good tech source and, in one case, they actually supplied a harness and relays to isolate a circuit as the particular coach had a "GEE...WHAT IS THIS?" issue. ONE zone, when the Dometic simply "CALLED" for heat and closed the "DRY CONTACTS" on the Aquahot board....would short out the board. The board always "shorted" in the same exact place...and it was on the PUMP circuit. That is a "TRACE" circuit from the main point on the board that is activated when the wires are "connected"....as in the Thermostat and the Control Module is calling for heat. We traced the circuits and measured and such. There was NO STRAY voltages or such coming the Control Module. In fact, when the thermostat or ON/OFF leads were shorted...or tested with a jumper....it happened. Then it got funky. The owner had an Ebay pump....which might NOT have been the CORRECT wattage...so maybe the short was an overload. BUT, Louisville Engineering designed an isolation harness so that the power for the zone came from a separate fused feed and the circuits were isolated and if there was an accidental ground in the control leads....the ON/OFF was totally in ONE circuit.
SO, Louisville has had some good feedback.
Hope you guys sort through how to get a tester and what Louisville does and can and cannot do. THEN let us know. A phone call save a lot of posting and typing.
Thanks for understanding...
Steven 53
Well went to compound it get mh. Zipped tied relays to secure so no movement turned on headlights flip h/l several times started mh let it air to ride hight pulled headlight switch no blue light high beam shut down mh went to fuse box and fuse was blown. Relays fuses were fine probably smart wheel is the problem. Might do work around for switch to relays to try that just Might be my fix for now.
Paul J A
Doug
The sales brochures state that the Engines were Standard for that year.
Monacocoach.com and
Head light fuse keeps blowing
Steven 53
Just got home thinking about problem. When the mh not running headlights work. Never had a problem with cruse/wipers while driving just headlights. park turn signals work fine. Probably need to follow the splicing on wiring coming from smart wheel. Hard to figure it happens when running
Jim Byrd
4 hours ago, gjh2916 said:Richard
Thanks for the service manual it worked for my RF18 frig. I finally diagnosed my problem, I have a 134A freon leak, I added freon, frig went back to normal operation for a couple of hours, then it went back to no cool in freezer. checked freon level and it is low again. No visible signs of freon leak, frig 7 years old but only actually run for about a year total time. Guess it's time for a new frig.
Unfortunately, you are experiencing the same problem that I experienced. The shop replaced the evaporator in the refrigerator, and it run fine for about 6 months and freon was low again. The shop had the refrigerator for several weeks and never was able to locate the leak. All my problems developed just a few months after the warranty expired.
Wanderlust
4 hours ago, Martinvz said:Scott, How did you disassemble the cabinets to remove the center box?
I tried to remove mine but there must have bee another 50 screws that I could not find. That box just would not move.
There are a lot of screws and one of mine was buried so deep it looked like it had been removed. If your coach is like mine there are staples coming from the plywood the ventilation fan is mounted on down into the rear vertical surface at the back of your cabinet. I took one of those cordless vibrating saws and carefully cut along the joint through the staples. I was perplexed initially as well when I removed all the screws and it didn't budge. When I reassembled, I ran screws down in place of the staples. Probably not as good as the staples but the assembly weighs 80 pounds less now.
jegall
My scangauge D and dash gauge both read normal temperature but keep getting code 151 thats high coolant temperature . Anyone know if more then one sensor.
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, Steven 53 said:Well went to compound it get mh. Zipped tied relays to secure so no movement turned on headlights flip h/l several times started mh let it air to ride hight pulled headlight switch no blue light high beam shut down mh went to fuse box and fuse was blown. Relays fuses were fine probably smart wheel is the problem. Might do work around for switch to relays to try that just Might be my fix for now.
OK...Steve and I talked. To summarize... He has has issues in the past.
He can replace the MAIN Headlight Fuse...that 25 A drives or sends switched power via the Main Headlight Relay.
He can put in a new fuse. ALL IS WELL. BUT, the moment he starts the engine....blows the 25 Amp fuse.
Please look at this print...posted before.
We have had ONE instance....or maybe two. A VIP Wheel MH had a Relay in the Daytime Running Lights socket. For WHATEVER REASON. That killed the MAIN Power Fuse. Did NOT kill the 15 Amp fuse going to the VIP and the Headlight switch.
NOTE...that the Headlight Relay gets its COIL power from the Headlight DRIVER Relay below.
OK....bear with me and this is more of a WHAT IF than a pure analysis. Notice that there is a 15 Amp fuse providing power to the light switch as well as the VIP controller. Therefore you can send a signal or power UP to the input of the Headlight Relay....and that 15 Amps would briefly power the headlights or the clearance lights and such. If there is a dead short somewhere in the controller and that power line is shorted....100% when engine is running. BINGO...it also backfeeds the headlight 25 Amp fuse.
AGAIN...I'm just trying to wrap my head around it...so if anyone has more knowledge...please jump in here.
Steve needs HEADLIGHTS. The temporary work around. He removes the output (Terminal 30) from the Headlight Relay. He attaches a fused (5 A) HOT Chassis lead to it. NOW, he has power to the HI/LO switch. His LOW beams will come on. He can switch to HIGHT. He will test...
THEN start the engine....and pull out the headlight switch to PARK. REMEMBER....when he blows the 25 Amp fuse....the parking and clearance lights STILL WORK....
SO, he installs a simple home light switch in a handy box....double stick taped to a convenient location. When he drives at night....he turns ON the headlights like one would do "aux" driving lights. The control circuit is now hot to the HI/LO and he can dim and drive.
I THINK this will work. Steve is on board and will test.
ANY IDEAS WHERE the Ignition ON or RUNNING "GROUND" signal is coming from?
Martinvz
Scott, thanks for the explanation. My coach is a LaPalma gas coach and just about everything is just a little different. I spent quite a bit of time on it last year and in the end did a lot of changes to make it work the way I wanted but the headbanger is still there. I doubt that I will get stuck into it this year as there are other projects that need my attention including the tlc the coach needs.
96 EVO
4 hours ago, Chuck Greco said:Frank did an outstanding/amazing job on my master/slave switches. My wife and l are very thankful after sweating the situation out, praying we did not have a boat anchor. Thanks again Frank...
Chuck and Donna Greco
That 'IS' the greatest nightmare isn't it!
Having a huge, expensive, boat anchor sitting in your driveway!!
Robert U
There is two sensors. One for the ECM and one for the temp gauge.
BobU
Bar SR Ranch
Not only is Frank the expert on the Kongbergs CCM (and many other things) the way he communicated with me threw out this process was top notch customer service something we just don't normally see in today's world.
I still have a lot to sort out and check on the coach to make sure that everything is correct before I plug in the new to me and repaired switch modules.
Of course, I am supper busy now for the next couple months with other previous commitments and don't want to rush and want to only be working on this without any interruptions so it will probably be 60 plus days before I will know if everything else is good.
I for sure will do an update and am hopeful that the mess a previous owner/service center created can be put back to factory.
Jeff H
On 5/5/2024 at 12:05 PM, Dr4Film said:@1nolaguy Now why would Safari do that??? Seems to me someone had lost their minds when their "engineer" designed that securing system.
Cuz they weren't going to have to take it apart.
Frank McElroy
1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:That 'IS' the greatest nightmare isn't it!
Having a huge, expensive, boat anchor sitting in your driveway!!
Back in 2008-9, Monaco made one of the highest quality motor coaches out there at a very reasonable price point.
Unfortunately, they made a few bad business decisions and the economy turned south - the rest is history.
Chassis multiplex systems were the next generation - cars already had it 20 year before. Engines evolved from mechanical to electronic - house wiring evolved from conventional to Intellitec multiplex systems - the next logical step was the chassis conventional to Kongsberg multiplex.
Today. most high end diesel pusher motor coaches have chassis multiplex systems. Had Monaco stayed in business, the transition would be no different than the conversion from conventional to house Intellitec multiplex system with parts availability and shops to service it.
Over time, all the old stock of Eaton dash switch modules and CCM's were depleted. Luckily, I was able to figure out how to repair failed dash switch modules and reprogram them all with a huge thanks to two other members of this forum who stepped forward and loaned me their working modules. CCM module rarely if ever fail unless hit by lightning. The major issue with the front CCM was a fix I found to the failed 5 volt supply to the smart wheel keypads. Added the external 5 VDC supply has fixed dozens of coaches with SmartWheel issues.
It's great to see these wonderful motor coaches on the road and NOT as park models.
BTW, if someone has a bath and a half 2008-9 single owner garage queen Signature for sale, please PM me.
Happycarz
When you get finished, you will want to replace the black plastic bushing that sits in the door edge where the deadbolt extends and retracts.
Ride Height for 2008 Camelot
Ali-026
Hello Everyone
I was checking the ride height on our Camelot and noticed inconsistencies between four corners and decided to adjust the valves. First I've started with the rear valves, left and right. I was doing this on a level ground, and after almost an hour of adjusting, testing and re-adjusting, I've got all four rear ride height measurements within 1/4 inch of each other. I put valid to manual, dumped the air, put back on drive, and it was still in-spec, so far so good.
Then I moved to the fronts but puzzled to see the curb side airbags were almost 1-and-half inch higher then the driver side. The driver side was exactly what it should be, same as rears, it was just the passenger side way off. I don't understand how 3 corners can be in-spec while the front-passenger side is off. It was getting late, I leveled the coach and decided to tackle it next weekend.
Any thought/suggestions on why front passenger side bags were higher while all other 3 corners were in-spec?
Thank you
Bob Wightman
Following. Working on my 2006 HR Scepter for pretty much the same thing.
New Downloads
Frank McElroy
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