Last year I had to repair a crack on the axle support, pretty common problem.  

I wanted the coach elevated higher above the axle to get better access. 

Pulled up on ramps, let the air in the bags, did not extend jacks.   Took a bunch of ~10"X10"X1.5" pieces I had and blocked under each jack then dropped air.  Weight of coach was on the blocks, axle weight carried by the ramps.  

Had plenty of room to lay across the top of the axle to grind out the crack and my neighbor brought his welder over and welded the crack up. 

6 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Until you weigh you won’t know BUT I doubt anyone uses less than 35 psi. Our rigs tend to gain weight over time and it’s a good idea to weigh every couple of years.

Understood.

What is the formula to calculate the right downward force?

48 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

There is some great advice in this thread, but NEVER, EVER get under a vehicle that is supported by air suspension, or hydraulic leveling jacks, or any type of jack for that matter.
A simple seal or line failure in such systems will immediately drop the vehicle to the bump stops.  It's a very unforgiving situation.
If you're not killed immediately, imagine being trapped under your coach, unable to breath until you slowly suffocate. 😧
I never want to read another story of this happening to someone.

Solid, good quality jack stands, rated for the load, or some other SOLID method for supporting the vehicle should be used.

Please be safe,

David

Thanks David, I do understand all those reasons but I was wondering if it was to remove the steering box. I’m using my ramps and have let the air out of the air bags and still have enough room to work on it.

9 minutes ago, Craggar said:

Thanks David, I do understand all those reasons but I was wondering if it was to remove the steering box. I’m using my ramps and have let the air out of the air bags and still have enough room to work on it.

That's a safe solution, Craig.
I just wanted to reiterate the importance of safety for anyone who reads this thread.
It's easy to get caught up in getting the job done, and overlook what should be the most important part.

There's no formula, final setting is a trial and error at the scales, no one knows your payload weight distribution. Mine is at 47 psi but I know to get on the scales again as stuff was added and moved. Your manual would have the stabization procedure.

40 minutes ago, RonCindy said:

I decided to go with the JB Plastic Weld solution, quick and easier for the first effort.  I had to work quickly with this material, applied it with a gloved hand, put on 2 separate coatings. I could barely get my fingers around the pipe to add the glue, I know adding a separate tape on top would be added strength however it would be next to impossible to wrap something securely around the pipe's crack.  I was able to reach the intake gray tank pipe fittings, (see 2nd picture) going directly into the gray tank.  It was a very tight fit but I was able to make about a quarter inch adjustment there to better align the crack. If this repair doesn't hold, I'll use your suggestions and re-pipe.

Thank you to everyone who responded with great ideas and suggestions, all tips are/were much appreciated.  Every idea was viable and I will need to use those should this plastic weld not hold.  I'll update periodically on status.

Thank you again to every poster and also to those who took the time to read my inquiry.

RonCindy, 2003 Dynasty

Great, since this isn’t pressure….you’re set to go.  If you do have a little seepage, which I doubt, then an additional coating with a small strip of fiberglass cloth impregnated with JB Weld will solve that and it will be, relatively speaking, simple to wrap over the top.

Been there…done that…

Thanks for the followup and feedback

21 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I think that is reasonable, got about the same quotes +/- 3k five years ago and the visible fiberglass damage was less than yours but included a windshield. Settled at 27K check to do it in my shop. But I located the cleanup company (next day after asking the cop, when I calmed down) and retrieved the pieces, it wasn't too hard to reconstruct using the old shapes. Junk yards would only sell a complete cap at a crazy cost. Just labor was estimated at ~14K in the final appraisal by a third party pro. And thats years back. Good luck which ever way it goes.

Thank you very much for the insight. All the  information.I get is very helpful. I'm sure the insurance company is gonna want to total it.It's an old Monaco with no slides but we've  taken  such good care of it.I guess we'll have to look at fixing it as a salvage vehicle. Still waiting for our insurance company to tell us anything.

2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

There is a huge RV salvage operation in KY,  Visione RV, they have a 1999 model Dynasty  Tag at 70 psi according to Toyo?
96 EVO 17 hours ago

45 minutes ago, John C said:

Understood.

What is the formula to calculate the right downward force?

Ideally you want the same percentage of weight per axle gross weight rating, but, in reality, it's usually not possible!

Usually, you would be over 100% GAWR on the steer axle before you reach 75% GAWR on the tag axle.

Glendinning Marine Cablemaster CM-7 Power Cable Winder Needs Repair
timaz996 17 hours ago

I have no idea but I will be watching this one.

2005 Camelot - Need back side pictures of dash gauges
Dave Shackelford 17 hours ago

I have a 2005 Camelot 40 pdq and I need pictures of how two of the dash gauges are wired up. Oil pressure and volts gauge. Any pics would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

Strange water leak / Need some knowledgeable assistance please
RoadTripper2084 17 hours ago

3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Check your belt molding all the way around the coach.  If the caulk seam fails and water gets in there is a potential for it to flow a long ways. 

I had a bad leak passenger side rear, ended up causing an area of delamination that I was able somewhat repair with epoxy but not the best option.  The leak was in the belt molding.  I ended up redoing all of the caulk, first scraping out the old, cleaning, taping off the area to be caulk and seal with Geocel.

I have a question about the beltline.  Everyone says to make sure the vinyl capping strip is water-tight but shouldn't the metal beltline underneath already be waterproof?  Doesn't it have a strip of butyl tape or something under it?  It would seem to me that the molding should be cosmetic and not be the functional water seal??

Glendinning Marine Cablemaster CM-7 Power Cable Winder Needs Repair
Ivan K 17 hours ago

I went to look at mine and after cutting some zipties and taking out 4 bolts through the floor (one of them problematic but doable with an extension), it would have enough clearance to just slide out? Enough to get to the motor without even disconnecting from EMS. I would pull the heavy cord out to get rid of it's weight. Depends on where they installed it in your rig.

Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
cbr046 17 hours ago

40 minutes ago, Preston W said:

Thank you very much for the insight. All the  information.I get is very helpful. I'm sure the insurance company is gonna want to total it.It's an old Monaco with no slides but we've  taken  such good care of it.I guess we'll have to look at fixing it as a salvage vehicle. Still waiting for our insurance company to tell us anything.

Thanks for the link on the Kentucky yard.I will check that out.

When I totally my bike it never left the garage.  Keep a frequent and open dialogue with your insurance contact, especially if you have possession of the title.  They don't want to haul it off to a salvage yard any more than you do. 

@Donflem's buddy appears to be the same color, except for the trim paint.  Plus the Visione salvage yard in KY.  @birdshill123 mentioned Navarro's in Algadones (MX?).  Lots of good options without breaking the bank. 

Good luck,

- bob

 

Tag at 70 psi according to Toyo?
grizzly 17 hours ago

you should have chart in your manual for front, drive and tag settings according to your weight on each tire ideally. I just weighed my axels and did it that way. my weight is pretty even from side to side. Then adjust tag axel with more or less down pressure to get less  or more weight on drive axle making sure to stay inside of the limits

Captains chairs removal
grizzly 17 hours ago

We removed our from the base and not the floor  A little hard but can be done Make sure to take pic of wiring to get them back on correctly

Aqua-Hot Model 100-04 Emergency Repair
timaz996 17 hours ago

On 5/22/2024 at 7:21 AM, Dr4Film said:

Folks, I just wanted to share what I did to get my Aqua-Hot working once again after waking up and finding no hot water yesterday.

Sometime ago I discovered that I had a small pin-hole in the filler neck of the Aqua-Hot boiler. In order to continue using the Aqua-Hot, I lowered the level in the tank by one gallon and have been using it that way since I purchased the coach in 2022.

Well, the reason I had no hot water yesterday was the Low Level Coolant Fault LED Light was on. So I added two quarts to the tank and the fault light did not reset. Now, I decided to check the integrity of the Coolant Level Float Valve by jumping terminals #15 & #16. When I did that the fault light went out. So my float valve has failed.

I then decided it was a good time to add the two bottles of Irontite to the boiler tank and fill the system up with boiler fluid. Fired the diesel up and wrapped paper towel around the filler neck to capture any fluid that could come out of the pin-hole leak. Well there was NADA, nothing. Another win for Irontite!

Plus the fluid is now entering the over-flow bottle like it should. Once the diesel burner shut off I filled the bottle up to the HOT level on the over-flow tank with normal green coolant as that's all I had in the coach. After all, once I installed the Irontite to the system the special boiler fluid is no longer needed.

Now I can watch the over-flow tank to ensure that the boiler tank does not get too low on fluid.

For the cost of the boiler fluid float valve plus the time and labor to install it, I will go without it. In my opinion that is just another failure point which generally happens at the worst possible moment when you need the Aqua-Hot. The older Aqua-Hot models never had a Float Valve plus I always watch my over-flow tank levels to make sure the tank is full of boiler fluid all the time.

Richard which Irontite product did you use? I'm thinking of having a bottle on hand for just in case.

Size of cargo doors
Preston W 17 hours ago

We were in a crash in bakersfield this week and had all of our cargo doors wiped out on the driver's side. We have a 1998 Monaco Dynasty. Someone sent me a link to a junkyard in Kentucky and they have a 1999with doors intact. .I'm not sure if the cargo doors are the same size. does anybody know?

Thanks

 

Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
Preston W 17 hours ago

Talkwd to the guy in Kentucky, he'll sell me the doors for about $650 each, which is a killer deal, but it's a 1999 dynasty and we have a 1998. .I'm investigating if they are the same exact size.

Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
Ivan K 17 hours ago

Have you tried the local salvage places around Phoenix?

Size of cargo doors
timaz996 17 hours ago

I sure hope the person's insurance that hit you is going to cover it.

Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
rockbust 17 hours ago

4 minutes ago, Preston W said:

Talkwd to the guy in Kentucky, he'll sell me the doors for about $650 each, which is a killer deal, but it's a 1999 dynasty and we have a 1998. .I'm investigating if they are the same exact size.

How many doors in total do you need. Honestly the doors were not bad to fabricate and your look easier since they are hinged on top.   I used 1-1/2 u channel aluminum for the frame. ridgid insulation inside the door and home depot sell this white fiberglass in sheets. I had a online shop bend the door skins. 

Strange water leak / Need some knowledgeable assistance please
windsorbill06 16 hours ago

42 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

I have a question about the beltline.  Everyone says to make sure the vinyl capping strip is water-tight but shouldn't the metal beltline underneath already be waterproof?  Doesn't it have a strip of butyl tape or something under it?  It would seem to me that the molding should be cosmetic and not be the functional water seal??

"should the metal beltline underneath be waterproof"

It should, but they leak.  The fasteners monaco used (at least on mine), were steel and rusted.  Some completely failed.  And my coach is kept indoors.     Enough fasteners rust off, and the entire belt line starts to pull away from wall.

IMO, just running sealant above the vinyl portion is only a bandaid.  The vinyl cover needs to be pulled back and fasteners inspected and replaced, as needed.

Tag at 70 psi according to Toyo?
Paul J A 16 hours ago

1 hour ago, John C said:

Understood.

What is the formula to calculate the right downward force?

WEIGH YOUR COACH. Four , or Six corner weight is the best, but single axle weights will be OK too. Fuel and water full. Black and grey tanks empty with your stuff on board. CAT scales at many truck stops. Tell the clerk you want to weigh a coach. There is an intercom at the scale so you can communicate with the clerk. There will be 3 platforms for3 axles. Steer axle on the  first, Drive on the second, and if applicable, Tag on the third. Keep the ENGINE Running, so you stay at Ride Height.Get the print out from the clerk. IF you have a tag axle, you may have to adjust your DOWN pressure to move weight as needed, and after adjusting your down pressure on the tag, REWEIGH the coach.  Now go to YOUR tire Mfg. inflation charts for the correct COLD inflation.

 

 

 

Refrigerator Question
windsorbill06 16 hours ago

That plastic gets brittle.  My policy is to always replace it when the first pin hole leak starts.  But sometimes access is really difficult.  Not worth water damage, however. 

 

If you do repair it, keep a close eye on it.

Size of cargo doors
Preston W 16 hours ago

Me too but they are saying they weren't at fault, blaming me. You know how that goes, he said, she said.  I think all the damage clearly points to him ramming us from behind. but no witnesses, nobody stopped.

Glendinning Marine Cablemaster CM-7 Power Cable Winder Needs Repair
Patrick 16 hours ago

49 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

I went to look at mine and after cutting some zipties and taking out 4 bolts through the floor (one of them problematic but doable with an extension), it would have enough clearance to just slide out? Enough to get to the motor without even disconnecting from EMS. I would pull the heavy cord out to get rid of its weight. Depends on where they installed it in your rig.

Thanks for you input.

Mine won’t just slide out but would need to be tilted backwards so the winder can clear the opening. What I’m not sure of is whether there is enough power cable slack at the back to provide any real maneuverability.  Hoping someone has tackled this already. Experience helps.  

Size of cargo doors
bobdinsmore 16 hours ago

I'm quite sure if you give them the year, make and model name and send them a photo of the side they will be able to ensure they can or cannot fill your needs. Also helpful would be width measurement sof each door.

I have had success over the phone just providing year, make and model.

Strange water leak / Need some knowledgeable assistance please
RoadTripper2084 16 hours ago

28 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:

"should the metal beltline underneath be waterproof"

It should, but they leak.  The fasteners monaco used (at least on mine), were steel and rusted.  Some completely failed.  And my coach is kept indoors.     Enough fasteners rust off, and the entire belt line starts to pull away from wall.

IMO, just running sealant above the vinyl portion is only a bandaid.  The vinyl cover needs to be pulled back and fasteners inspected and replaced, as needed.

Yeah, I have 3 corners coming off that I've secured with copious amounts of proflex but my beltlines are going to need to be re-secured. 

2005 Camelot - Need back side pictures of dash gauges
Mike H 16 hours ago

Are they Faria gauges ?

Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
jacwjames 16 hours ago

1 hour ago, Preston W said:

Talkwd to the guy in Kentucky, he'll sell me the doors for about $650 each, which is a killer deal, but it's a 1999 dynasty and we have a 1998. .I'm investigating if they are the same exact size.

Probably won't work, that one has a slide so they will be shorter. 

Need to measure the width and the height of the door to get a size that might work. 

Size of cargo doors
96 EVO 15 hours ago

1 hour ago, Preston W said:

Me too but they are saying they weren't at fault, blaming me. You know how that goes, he said, she said.  I think all the damage clearly points to him ramming us from behind. but no witnesses, nobody stopped.

Do you run a dash cam?

2005 Camelot - Need back side pictures of dash gauges
Tom Cherry 15 hours ago

Odds are....they are Medallion.  There is NO Monaco Prints that I have seen or found...and the 2005 was one of the unique years where the Scepter, Camelot and Windsor were all the SAME MH...just badged differently. I also pulled the owner's manual and the Sales Brochure as well looked at the gauge cluster....IT "LOOKS" like a MEDALLION cluster...

SO, the only way to get an REAL information, unless someone can take specific shots and that MUST be from a 2006...not other years.

Use your Phone or get a spy camera.  Get the Name and Model or PN from either of the two large gauges.  Then do some googling or call Medallion.  They will have prints and they will send you a layout of the connector(s) on THEIR END.  That will have the Pin Out or the description of which input goes where.  

FWIW...I think and am pretty sure...that the Large Gauges have a Pigtail that runs to each of the smaller gauges.  Thus, there is NO direct connection from Monaco to them.  The large or multipin connections go to each...and then, they branch out to the individual gauges.

That's my experience...but who KNOWS.  Regardless, no matter what Brand you have, Monaco never provided any "CONNECTION" inputs....or if they did, they were very limited...So I'd do some snooping and identify the Brand and Model Number and then pester the manufacturer for prints.

Good Luck.

Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
Gary Cole 15 hours ago

On 5/21/2024 at 9:40 PM, VinceB said:

I've considered applying straight carnauba wax

Your wheels look great Vince. Now you have me thinking that I should do something about mine.

I've used lacquer clear in the past when I did not want to mix up 2 part clearcoat. I've found that enamel clearcoat has a yellow tint to it. Clearcoat out of the can seems to wear pretty well. I would use a good cleaner first because buffing compounds can leave an oily film

 

Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
VinceB 15 hours ago

On 5/22/2024 at 3:33 AM, MyronTruex said:

Unless you have incredibly bad wheels, you are working way too hard.

Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
96 EVO 14 hours ago

You have two different steer rims 🤔?

2005 Camelot - Need back side pictures of dash gauges
Dave Shackelford 14 hours ago

3 hours ago, Dave Shackelford said:

I have a 2005 Camelot 40 pdq and I need pictures of how two of the dash gauges are wired up. Oil pressure and volts gauge. Any pics would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

Size of cargo doors
Preston W 14 hours ago

2 hours ago, bobdinsmore said:

I'm quite sure if you give them the year, make and model name and send them a photo of the side they will be able to ensure they can or cannot fill your needs. Also helpful would be width measurement sof each door.

I have had success over the phone just providing year, make and model.

Thank you. will do.

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Do you run a dash cam?

I have a garment but it's down below.And I don't use the dash cam.Angle. For that  it would have been great because it would have proved.I was in my lane and not wandering.

Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
Preston W 14 hours ago

Ah good point didn't notice the slides.

Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
VinceB 14 hours ago

21 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

You have two different steer rims 🤔?

Yes - been that way since new.  Both left side are the same and are different from the both right side that are the same.  Monaco, I suppose, threw on what they had. Same dimensions, same weight so no issues.  I'm the only one that ever noticed until now.  The DW still doesn't know.

It is certainly not worth the effort to correct the issue merely for cosmetics - you can see only 1 side of the coach at a time. And then I'd have to deal with the 2 extra wheels.

Tag at 70 psi according to Toyo?
John C 14 hours ago

OK, so it looks like trial and error then.

Thank you!

 

Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
96 EVO 14 hours ago

Another Monaco " What were they thinking 😖", headscratcher!!

very weird problem on the shower
John C 13 hours ago

I got a very strange problem on my shower.

The water is almost dripping on the shower even when I direct connect the city water.

1. I changed the shower stem, still the same.

2. I removed the shower stem, then turn on the water, lot of water coming out - that tell me that water pressure is enough from the water pipe inside the wall

3. I connect a garden hose with adapter, connect to the shower hose, lots of water coming out, that tells me that the are no obstacles between the shower hose and the stem connection.

 

Where is the problem?

 

Please advise.

Thank you

 

Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
Dr4Film 13 hours ago

After I got my 06 Dynasty home from Salt Lake City, I discovered that the right front steer wheel was different than the rest of the Monaco Wheels. So I imagine that the original one got damaged somehow and was replaced with a non-Monaco style wheel which looks like an Alcoa wheel.

Monaco's had exclusive rights to the "heart" shaped wheel for the longest time. As you can see in the original posters photos there are two different versions of the Monaco "heart" shaped wheels.

My 02 Windsor has the older heart shape style like what is on one side of his coach whereas the 06 Dynasty has the newer heart shape wheels that have somewhat of a recess to them. The non-Monaco wheel has just basic round holes. So I have 5 wheels that match and one that doesn't. No big deal to me.

very weird problem on the shower
Marine Boy 13 hours ago

I can't be 100% sure without seeing the shower valve uncovered, but it looks like what is in my bus and there is a balance valve in the shower valve that sticks and will need to be replaced.   I had the same problem.  I had to get the part from a large plumbing supply, because wasn't available from Home Depot or Lowes.

Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
VinceB 13 hours ago

11 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

After I got my 06 Dynasty home from Salt Lake City, I discovered that the right front steer wheel was different than the rest of the Monaco Wheels. So I imagine that the original one got damaged somehow and was replaced with a non-Monaco style wheel which looks like an Alcoa wheel.

Monaco's had exclusive rights to the "heart" shaped wheel for the longest time. As you can see in the original posters photos there are two different versions of the Monaco "heart" shaped wheels.

My 02 Windsor has the older heart shape style like what is on one side of his coach whereas the 06 Dynasty has the newer heart shape wheels that have somewhat of a recess to them. The non-Monaco wheel has just basic round holes. So I have 5 wheels that match and one that doesn't. No big deal to me.

 

LOL - I bet a bunch of us will go out and look now!  Bet we have more than a few that don't have matching wheels that never noticed.

Size of cargo doors
1nolaguy 13 hours ago

My heRt goes out to you. I just replaced a single wet bay door skin. I provided the labor to remove and install the door after a new skin was made and then installed and painted. It still cost me close to $700.

very weird problem on the shower
John C 13 hours ago

23 minutes ago, Marine Boy said:

I can't be 100% sure without seeing the shower valve uncovered, but it looks like what is in my bus and there is a balance valve in the shower valve that sticks and will need to be replaced.   I had the same problem.  I had to get the part from a large plumbing supply, because wasn't available from Home Depot or Lowes.

Could you please tell me if this is the the balance valve you are talking about? if so, where did you buy it and do you have the part #?

Thank you.

Glendinning Marine Cablemaster CM-7 Power Cable Winder Needs Repair
MyronTruex 13 hours ago

Bottom slide seal detached
martinsimba 13 hours ago

Thank you Tom. Do you have any ideas on how I can reach the seal to work on it? It is a slide out with a cable system and the seal runs along the bottom so It is tucked back up under and I can't really get to it. I'm wondering if the slide can be jacked up a bit without causing damage, just enough to get my hands in to reattach with adhesive?

Thank you

Front Film Removal
Venturer 12 hours ago

I started removing the film from the panel above the generator. The center section peeled off fairly easy with a heat gun and scrapper. Goo Gone soaked up the residue and was able to scrape it off with the same plastic blade. I then cleaned and polished it. It was pretty easy and went quickly. As I started around the curve toward the door, I was leaving more glue residue. The Goo Gone took some off, but after three applications, I'm not getting the last of it off. As John mentioned, is this a job for a steamer and or Xylene? If I can't find a simple way to remove the rest of the glue residue, I don't want to attempt removing any below the top section as I might have gotten lucky with the first section due to more sun damage.    

very weird problem on the shower
Marine Boy 12 hours ago

34 minutes ago, John C said:

Could you please tell me if this is the the balance valve you are talking about? if so, where did you buy it and do you have the part #?

Thank you.

Hi John,  No, that is not it.  I did some digging and found a few pictures from when I did my repair.  So the pictures attached are after I removed all of the hardware to give access to the shower valve.  You will see that to get to the Balance Valve(Sorry but it has a different name at the plumbing supply house, that I don't remember), I had to cut clearance to be able to remove the valve.  I do not have a picture of the valve removed.  You will see that there is a slot in the head of the valve which has to be turned to remove the valve.  What I would recommend is get the brand and model off shower valve and do some google searching for parts and how to repair it.  Sorry I couldn't be more help, but my memory on brand and model is lost..CRS.   Feel free to contact me with any other questions.   FYI - I just found the brand of Shower Valve on mine is a Moen.  

Size of cargo doors
jacwjames 12 hours ago

Looks to me like the first doors with the wheel scuffs might be fixable.  Just sand them down and bondo and deep gouges or scratches and prime. 

The door that the skin is peeled up on will need a new skin, along with the smaller door.  The skin is attached to the metal frame with HD 3M type double sided adhesive tape.  If the frame is bent a little it might be fixable, I fixed one by clamping it to a heavy table and then used a large pipe wrench to bend it back, I put a couple pieces of scrap wood on both side to prevent scratching the metal with the pipe wrench.   The the frame is not fixable it can be duplicated, really not much to the doors, a good shop can make. 

Looks like the hing portion that attaches to the side of the coach is good but you might need new pieces that attach to the top of the door.  REVrvparts still sells these.

Front Film Removal
redstickbill 12 hours ago

When I had the film removed they used a steamer, took two guys about two days.

Bill B 07 Dynasty

Glendinning Marine Cablemaster CM-7 Power Cable Winder Needs Repair
Paul J A 12 hours ago

Do you have a Manual for the reel? I would start there. Or call the Mfg. Any information from them would be a good start. Do you have a false vertical wall section in the adjoining basement compartment for access to the reel? 

Can you reach in with your phone camera and see anything??

very weird problem on the shower
Paul J A 12 hours ago

It's the mixing valve. Take ALL the parts to Lowes, or H D and they will fix you up. Common.

While you are in there, replace those 90 degree plastic elbows with brass, and the water lines with stainless steel braided type. Once and done. Those elbows fail in time, or are tightened too tight at the build time and crack.

$6K  floor repair taught me that. 

2009 Camelot 42PDQ Driver Side Bedroom Slide Clicks, then works sometimes
jimtaylorville 12 hours ago

On 5/22/2024 at 10:37 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Piggy backing on Harry’s explanation…which I was typing…

This system is pretty robust.  But….if you have something that is binding on the inside, like a box wedged on the other side of the bed…TROUBLE.

The next place….inside the bed box.  If some “Monaco” left over assembly debris just sort of “wandered” or vibrated around….then it can jamb the mechanism.

Size of cargo doors
Paul J A 12 hours ago

Maybe some of these entities will have what you end up needing.

RV Parts & Salvage Yards

very weird problem on the shower
Marine Boy 12 hours ago

FYI - Moen calls it a "Balancing Spool"  and I believe the Moen part number is 1423.   I still recommend to take yours apart before you start buying parts.

Found this youtube video on replacement: 

 

2009 Camelot 42PDQ Driver Side Bedroom Slide Clicks, then works sometimes
DennisZ 11 hours ago

Mine did the same thing a couple of years ago, it was a bad clutch drive, replaced it and all has been good.

Aqua-Hot Model 100-04 Emergency Repair
96 EVO 11 hours ago

Irontite All Weather Seal.

Blue label, blue cap.

Front Film Removal
Steve P 11 hours ago

A steamer is supposed to help remove the vinyl, but I plan to order Rapid Remover to dissolve the adhesive (www.rapidtac.com or Amazon).  This worked, according to another post.

Aqua-Hot Model 100-04 Emergency Repair
Dr4Film 11 hours ago

2009 Camelot 42PDQ Driver Side Bedroom Slide Clicks, then works sometimes
Tom Cherry 10 hours ago

59 minutes ago, jimtaylorville said:

Thanks for the information! Limited time to check the coach, however I did close and reopen the slide. It Closed relatively quickly. Opening however took 2 - 3 times longer than closing. Not totally sure I don't have a low voltage issue adding to the problem. I have replaced the house batteries with Lithium, however have not yet changed out the magnum inverter so the batts are only charging to 13.2 volts. Our main awning, since the coach was new, seems to move very slowly and we have been hesitant using it. 

If I am understanding correctly, I have 6 rollers. 4 on the floor for the bed, and 2 raised for the slide out? The steel plate several have installed attaches to the underside of the bed. Correct?

What Dennis says makes sense.  BUT, there are some issues with the 2009 Camelot that you need to be aware of.  As an Owner of one and the tale of tears that cost several thousand dollars to fix...but I finally resolved it...this is what I recommend.

First.  Low batteries will damage a motor.  The motor is trying to pull the max torque.  When the voltage drops....the current draw will spike up.  That then puts the motor at risk of heat damage. My front Hydraulic system motor burned out.  More on that later and there is an ERROR in the FRB of the Camelots that need to be corrected...

NOW.  This is what I would do first.

Take a set of Jumper cables and jumper between the House and the Chassis.  DO BOTH SIDES.  If you have a faulty (Corroded) Ground, that will cause a voltage drop. I had this.  SO, Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative.  NOW run the rear slide and see how it works.  From what you said about the clutch clicking, I think that Dennis is right.  BUT, if you have an obstruction, then you clutch could be fine and replacing that would be futile.

Your comments about your awning concern me.  I had the same issue.  I spent days trouble shooting trying to find out why the house voltage up front to the Hydraulic was about a half volt low...and then under load...it really DROPPED.  I had ordered a new Hydraulic package from Lippert.  I installed a Blue Seas Battery Selector Switch so I could operate the front slides on Chassis OR House.  They worked faster, visibly so, on Chassis...  Then, one day, I was doing some cleaning and such and found that the House Switch had a voltage drop.  I had tested that, and measured that, UNDER LOAD (the proper way) but the intermittent was "Bounce Related".  The switch would be fine....drive it and you never knew. SO, that is on my list of TO DO's.  

NOW...if there is NO change in the rear slide....and it continues to click, then odds are "MECHANICAL".  As to the rollers.  I have NOT had my bed side apart.  As I said, there are only TWO ROLLERS that the underside of the house runs on.  They are at least 10" or so wide.  You can look under with a flashlight and pull back the seal and easily see them.  IF ONE IS CANTED....That is a major issue.

NOW...if you Chassis batteries are WEAK...then the next test is to turn OFF BOTH Disconnects.  Take your Vehicle and use Jumper Cables from the Battery to the HOUSE.  Connect them on both ends.  Then start the Vehicle.  THEN turn on BOTH Disconnects.  That protects from Arcing.  NOW run the slides...NO DIFFERENCE...then it is NOT low voltage.  Past that....start checking the rollers and then disassemble the bed. NOW....remove the Jumpers just like you installed.  TURN OFF the Vehicle.  Then turn off the Disconnects.  Then remove the Jumpers..  THEN turn back on the Disconnects.  BTW.  If you ever need to JUMP the Engine...  THIS IS THE METHOD.  By having the Disconnects OFF...you protect from an arc.  When you turn ON the Disconnects...that is a POSITIVE ON...not the arcing when you put on the clamps...  

NOW....I would personally REPLACE the Blue Seas House Switch.  Not a hard job.  Not expensive.  I spent a lot of time and should have...as a common sense thing...done that.  

Next.  There are TWO Ground Cables behind the Battery box (as you shinny under). I lost my Genny as in NOT starting.  Simple.  The studs were corroded.  LOOKED GREAT.  BUT, I measured and there was a HIGH RESISTANCE.  Remove the two nuts...clean up and "shine" the terminals and the chassis.  Re attach.  That is GOOD Preventative Maintenance (PM).

Next.  Up Front, there is a 150 Amp Circuit Breaker in the lower Left.  Monaco GOOFED.  In 2008, they have an 80 Amp.  Your Hydraulic motor is FLA 65 Amps.  Monaco intended to add a second hydraulic unit for the Genny.  OPPS....they got ahead in their wiring.  They installed (it is on the PRINTS) a 150 Amp.  That Breaker never tripped and I burned up the hydraulic motor.  Put this in Amazon.

80 Amp Automotive Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset Switch Button12V - 48V DC, Waterproof 80A

Amazon sells these for $26.  The brand is T Tocas....and I THINK that is exactly the same brand.  Otherwise, if you have the DREADED Lippert Motor CONNECTION...you will have issues.  Look at the Lippert Motor on the Hydraulic unit.  There is a Solenoid above it.  Check the terminals on the solenoid...clean and tighten... 

The MOTOR is tricky...and it took a while.  Pull OFF the cables.  Then NOTICE the nuts on the studs or bolts.  CAREFULLY put a wrench or socket on them...and TIGHTEN.  Do NOT overtorque...like you can do on a steel ground stud.. just tighten and probably you will get up to half a turn...it needs to be snug.  The other side of the stud is a recatangular head that fits into a terminal block. IF there is looseness or play, the head slips around or back and forth.  That was what burned up my motor.  SO....snug down the locking nuts on the studs.  Then put the cables back on.  I tighten my NEW motor about once every 2 years.

That's it..  

Good Luck...  Let us know what happens...

very weird problem on the shower
John C 10 hours ago

So did you change the whole shower valve?

I was thinking about doing that but I need cut a much bigger hole on the wall than what it is right now

1 hour ago, Paul J A said:

It's the mixing valve. Take ALL the parts to Lowes, or H D and they will fix you up. Common.

While you are in there, replace those 90 degree plastic elbows with brass, and the water lines with stainless steel braided type. Once and done. Those elbows fail in time, or are tightened too tight at the build time and crack.

$6K  floor repair taught me that. 

Are you talking about the elbow between the shower hose connector to the shower valve? I do see a Pex elbow there ( please see attached picture).

If it is, could you please tell me how you did that? Looks very hard to remove the connector from the top part you can't right the connector - very limited space inside and you can only open that much wall otherwise the shower cover won't be able to cover the hole completely.

If not, which one are you referring to?

 

Please advise.

Thank you

 

Size of cargo doors
Preston W 10 hours ago

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Looks to me like the first doors with the wheel scuffs might be fixable.  Just sand them down and bondo and deep gouges or scratches and prime. 

The door that the skin is peeled up on will need a new skin, along with the smaller door.  The skin is attached to the metal frame with HD 3M type double sided adhesive tape.  If the frame is bent a little it might be fixable, I fixed one by clamping it to a heavy table and then used a large pipe wrench to bend it back, I put a couple pieces of scrap wood on both side to prevent scratching the metal with the pipe wrench.   The the frame is not fixable it can be duplicated, really not much to the doors, a good shop can make. 

Looks like the hing portion that attaches to the side of the coach is good but you might need new pieces that attach to the top of the door.  REVrvparts still sells these.

Size of cargo doors
waterskier_1 10 hours ago

I needed to repair some bay doors last year.  What I found is that you need to not only know the year, and likely model, but also the measurements of each door.  For example, my 40-foot Exec has different size doors than a 42-ft or 45-ft.  And that is just in the same year and model.  Don't expect that these salvage yards are going to have a listing of each and every year, make model, and length coach ever produced.  They will likely know year, make, and model only.  It will be up to you to do the research to find all the other models that might have used the same door, and the length of each door.  

I ended up giving up on buying used ones and had mine rebuilt.  They are only aluminum, and unless you have a rounded (curved) edge at the bottom (the pics you posted look like a flat break at the bottom) they can be manufactured at a good (RV) body shop.  I found in my case the door, plus shipping, and then stripping or sanding and any repairs for dings it might have, would have been more than the new doors.  Something to look into.

 -Rick N.

Bottom slide seal detached
Tom Cherry 10 hours ago

2 hours ago, martinsimba said:

Thank you Tom. Do you have any ideas on how I can reach the seal to work on it? It is a slide out with a cable system and the seal runs along the bottom so It is tucked back up under and I can't really get to it. I'm wondering if the slide can be jacked up a bit without causing damage, just enough to get my hands in to reattach with adhesive?

Thank you

I have that type of system on the short slide in my bedroom.  I don't really KNOW how it is attached...other than the USUAL.  UNFORTUNATELY...there is no way, that I have seen to get to it from the INSIDE.  I KNOW.  One of my cables broke.  YEEOUCH.  The shop had to totally disassemble and remove all the cabinet work....There are EIGHT cables.  Four that pull it in and Four that push it out.  The cables have a "T" or a DISK on each end and that fits into a slot.  You have to be able to get to where the cable attaches.  Mine was the one that PULLED IN.  OMG.  The horizontal trim on each side had to come off.  OPPS....that was just the start...bottom line...8 hours for two guys....WHO HAD DONE IT AND WERE GOOD...

The slide was made a BAL or a NORCO or also called Accu-SLide...  You can watch a YouTube Video of how the slide works and also how to replace the cable.  That will give you an idea. 

IF and I SAY IF, your slide is like mine, there are 4 (MEMOR) small plastic rollers in the frame or the sidewall of the MH.  These are maybe 1" in diameter.  THERE IS NO ADJUSTMENT.  I had to raise my slide and put Guardian Plates on the underside of the slide as there was wear and abraison.  Not such a bad job.  BUT, if you jack up the slide...you might see.

The way you do that.  Take two 2X4 and screw them together....the 4" sides..  Then you will need two Bottle Jacks (car jacks are OK...as in the screw ones in your spare)...but a floor jack does not give you the precise lifting control.  You then cut a 24" length of 2X4 and make a "T" post or Jack. You put that UNDER the slide...BUT READ ON...  You jack up one side...maybe 1/8" and then the other.  Keep doing this until you have maybe 1/2" or so of clearance.  GOING any higher might not be advisable.  

NOW...you CAN run the slide in...maybe 1/2 of the way.  IT DEPENDS ON THE CABINETRY.  Mine had complex crown molding and a header.  If you can run yours in and put you hand behind the top and feel the slide and the frame....then that is what you monitor.  Mine would rub at the top....so make sure that when you jack up...there is clearance and you are NOT pushing the TOP WOOD against the WOOD ON THE Side wall.

The Jacks can be about half way between the end of the slide and the sidewall.

OK...GOOGLE is your friend.

very weird problem on the shower
Paul J A 10 hours ago

John; There should be a blind wall on either side of the shower. A wood panel that will have screws in the corners. Have to look for them. Once that panel is removed, you have complete access to the back of the shower stall. 

very weird problem on the shower
John C 10 hours ago

6 minutes ago, Paul J A said:

John; There should be a blind wall on either side of the shower. A wood panel that will have screws in the corners. Have to look for them. Once that panel is removed, you have complete access to the back of the shower stall. 

Too bad for me, one side of my shower is the tile splashback, another side is the exterior wall...

I will have to remove the cabinet to see what is there

very weird problem on the shower
Paul J A 10 hours ago

6 minutes ago, John C said:

Too bad for me, one side of my shower is the tile splashback, another side is the exterior wall...

I will have to remove the cabinet to see what is there

You "could" have a blind wall in those cabinets below and above the splash back. Mine was in the pantry. Had to empty the shelves, take them out and the blind wall was the right side of that interior area.

Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
dstanton95 10 hours ago

There’s a couple of shops in Puerto Penasco Mexico that may repair it for a reasonable cost! I seen some of their paint jobs and they look pretty good. I’m taking my Dynasty down there next May for a complete paint job!

very weird problem on the shower
Marine Boy 9 hours ago

Your layout looks the same as mine and it would be a HUGE project to try and change out the shower valve which is why I did the repair.  Good luck.

Size of cargo doors
Preston W 9 hours ago

Thanks Rick. I didn't realize how critical that was. I'll measure the doors and send it to the body shop, they are doing an estimate on the repair.. the bottom of our  doors has about a one inch end section bent at an angle.

Preston

Aqua-Hot Model 100-04 Emergency Repair
Dr4Film 9 hours ago

I was first introduced to the Irontite product back in 2015 when my radiator developed a leak in the lower portion of the fins while on the Cassier Highway in Northern British Columbia. Had to be towed over 200 miles to Terrance BC to a truck shop where they suggested I try the Irontite. I agreed. They put in two bottles and 12 gallons of new coolant and said to drive it about 50 miles to circulate the Irontite really well. I never lost another drop of coolant during that 50 miles.

I then drove another 5000+ miles while never losing another drop of coolant all the way to Gadsden AL where they installed a new radiator into my Windsor.

By the way, the shop was able to reuse all of the new coolant that had been installed in BC. All that was needed was to replace the coolant filter with a new one.

Two years later, a service tech noticed that the new radiator was oozing at the top someplace so I tossed in another two bottles of Irontite and that stopped the oozing.

I am a huge proponent of this product.

Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
VinceB 7 hours ago

OK here are my results/impressions.

As stated in  a previous post, I ordered this from Amazon Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
96 EVO 6 hours ago

Does the label say it contains Oxalic acid?

very weird problem on the shower
John C 6 hours ago

3 hours ago, Marine Boy said:

Your layout looks the same as mine and it would be a HUGE project to try and change out the shower valve which is why I did the repair.  Good luck.

How did you do it?

So you believe I need to change the whole valve?

I am thinking about enlarge the opening at Max but smaller than the shower valve cover, hopefully I can put my hand inside, remove the cold/hot water connection and take the valve out.

Any suggestion? Thanks

very weird problem on the shower
John C 5 hours ago

4 hours ago, Paul J A said:

You "could" have a blind wall in those cabinets below and above the splash back. Mine was in the pantry. Had to empty the shelves, take them out and the blind wall was the right side of that interior area.

Mine is different, I will have to remove the granite and the cabinet to see it.

 

Tag at 70 psi according to Toyo?
96 EVO 5 hours ago

8 hours ago, John C said:

OK, so it looks like trial and error then.

Thank you!

 

Pretty much!

40psi on the regulator is a good starting point, then when you get it on a scale, you can make small adjustments from there.

You will likely end up somewhere between 38-50psi.

Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
Larry Laursen 5 hours ago

In the Phoenix area I would recommend Straight Line RV repair.  I had them go a couple of repairs and was very satisfied.  They have a place in Phoenix and Oregon.  Contact them and show the photos.  I sent photos and they did a complete estimate for insurance and followed up to get some additional work from insurance.

Monaco Dynasty crash. Major damage
Preston W 4 hours ago

Thanks, I will check them out. Freightliner which is now Velocity Truck Center in Avondale doesn't work on RV bodies and recommended Ultimate Collision and RV.  

Best

Accuride/Alcoa Polishing
MyronTruex 4 minutes ago

I retired my Mothers polish after finding that stuff. Trying to get the black stuff off was a real pain and messy. I watched a pro polish my rims once and am sure it was a mild acid bath. That prompted me to but the acid stuff in the link, and then eventually I bought the whole kit. The polish seems to have a nice sized grit and there is no messy black stuff to contend with. 

I have a small orbital polisher that makes the chore even easier. 

New Downloads

Trojan Battery - User's Guide
Frank McElroy Tuesday at 06:24 PM

User's Guide - Contains vital information regarding proper care and maintenance of Trojan AES, AGM, GEL and Flooded batteries. (32 pages)

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