Dr4Film

Your owner's manual will have an enormous amount of information and operational procedures for most if not all of your systems found on your coach. That's provided you received one with the purchase.

Thanks Tom! Between you, Scotty and Frank, we will have a nice document to put in our file section for people to download and have readily available on their devices. I appreciate the help.

Thanks, Scotty. I will use your setup except I will select flooded cells versus AGM. The Generator portion of the setup will be easy as it is pretty much the same as it was for the Trace/Xantrex Inverter that is in the Windsor. I appreciate your help!

This past summer I switched out the older Magnum ME-RC and ME-AGSS that came with the coach to the ME-ARC Remote and the ME-AGS-N for the Auto Gen Start system. I have read many posts specifically from Tom Cherry regarding the proper programming of the setup menus for the ME-ARC remote which also includes the ME-AGS-N which makes programming the Auto-Gen Start much easier. Would Tom or anyone else have a file that lists each menu item as to what it should be set at for a house bank of 4 liquid acid batteries? I know that all of the "standard" factory settings that Magnum recommends is not necessarily the best for our Monaco coaches. A word document or PDF file listing as to what each of the settings should be would really be helpful. I had put one together for the Xantrex/Trace Inverter/Charger that my previous Windsor has and shared it with many members here over the years. I would rather not have to spend the time on the phone with the Magnum tech people if I can avoid it. Thanks so much!

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My Silverleaf setup is NOT a distraction but one of the most important tools I use when traveling the highways. It is on ALL the time until we reach our destination for the night. The dash analog gauges are not as accurate as I wanted them to be, so I installed the SilverLeaf VMSpc in my previous Windsor back in 2010 and moved it to my Dynasty that we recently purchased. The VMSpc has so many more capabilities that it was a no-brainer for me to install it. I will not move my coach unless the SilverLeaf is active. It is also a far better viewing system than the dash Aladdin System that is in my Dynasty. Here are a few photos of my Windsor installation and one of the Dynasty which I installed basically in the very same location. I have never worried about it growing legs or any LEO or customs agent questioning what it is. I have been using it for the past 12 years and would never be without it.

So sorry to hear about your fridge fire and now having to deal with the insurance company and trying to figure out your next move. If you are truly contemplating trying to rebuild your coach it may be a better idea to let the insurance company total it, then buy it back at a far cheaper price. That's if you plan to hang onto the coach for a long time and not flip it. I have no problem dealing with a Salvage Title as long as the vehicle has not been in a flood. I have purchased two different Salvage Title vehicles in the past and sold one for what I paid for it 3 years later. I still have the other one which now has 158K on the odometer. It is a 2006 Saturn Vue and I tow it behind my coach.

I would try to avoid any CAPS fuel system and stick with a common rail fuel delivery system. The CAPS, if it fails, is very expensive to replace. Plus lots of labor to R&R. JMHO

With the limited information that you have given, I would first verify your GFCI outlets making sure that they haven't tripped.

I purchased a momentary foot switch from Amazon made by Linemaster. Linemaster T-91-S Treadlite II Foot Switch, Electrical, Single Pedal, Momentary, SPDT, No Guard, Black https://a.co/d/6Ap34o5 Works great and rock solid.

The foot switch is closed when you hold your foot on it which activates the engine brake. Then opens when you remove your foot to turn off the engine brake. I would first verify that the foot switch is not at fault, then work from there. Check the files section for a wiring diagram for your coach.

The engines that I have viewed on VisoneRV usually have the turbos attached and go along with the engine. Haven't spent any time on the ColawRV site.

Personally, I would trust VisoneRV and ColawRV for their used engines even though you are buying as-is no warranty. Both have multiple Cummins engines.

Ray, it appears from Frank's post that all is needed is a 12 VDC power source to bring the ECM back to life. Then the Insite software will be able to read all of the data inside the ECM.

Don, I am a little confused with your posts. I had a Banks Power Pack installed by Banks on my previous Windsor back in July 2013 well after they stop selling the kits for the ISC engines. They still had some for the ISB engines back then. I purchased the kit from an owner who had ordered the wrong kit for his truck engine but never returned it. Got it for 50% off. When Banks went to install the kit, the Ottomind was DOA. But they still had a few in stock so I purchased one. Everything worked great until last year on our way home from Workamping in New Hampshire the EGT & Boost gauges became erratic and eventually they both quit working. However, the engine still had plenty of boost and power. I tried disconnecting the connector and spraying both ends with contact cleaner but no joy. I sent Banks an email in regard to the symptoms and their response was that the wiring harness for the gauges has been compromised somewhere between the Ottomind and the gauges. Also, there have been two times when I had to use the Bypass Adapter which returns the engine back to "stock" because of temporary problems. The first time was while in California in 2017 when I had an electrical problem with the house battery bank negative cable which caused a power failure to the Ottomind. I didn't realize it at the time what was going on, but when I looked down at the Banks gauges, they were both dead. So, I just used the Bypass adapter to finish our trip. Later after doing some reading and research with the wiring schematics it mentioned that there is a 5-amp fuse somewhere. But when Banks installed the kit, they never told me where they placed this fuse. Well, two years later when inspecting the crack in the exhaust manifold, I discovered a fuse holder laying on top of the rear of the engine near the back of the transmission. I opened it up and VOILA, it had a blown 5-amp fuse which I replaced and the Ottomind came back to life. The second time was on our trip up to New Hampshire back in 2021. After driving nearly 1400 miles from Florida and four days of traveling, the day we were to arrive at our Workamping jobs, we stopped for a break and some lunch at a rest stop on I-495 in Massachusetts. When we went to leave the rest stop I had very little boost in the engine plus the Banks gauges were dead again. Coasted over to the side of the road and decided this was not the area to diagnose what the problem maybe so I inserted the Banks Power Pack Bypass plug first and it worked. We arrived at our Workamping jobs later that day. During the summer, I started to troubleshoot the problem and found a corroded negative terminal end on the Banks wiring. I replaced both the positive and negative ends of each wire, and the Banks came back to life. However, as I stated earlier in the post, on the trip back home to Florida the gauges became erratic and eventually quit working BUT the Ottomind was still working fine and still is to this day with the new owner. When reading other Banks Power Pack owners posts on various forums the average lifespan for the Ottomind has been in the 8–12-year range. So, my confusion lies with your statement that the EGT gauge quit working. Just having the EGT gauge quit doesn't necessarily mean that the Ottomind quit. Did you really mean to say that the Ottomind completely failed which causes BOTH the EGT & BOOST gauges to quit thereby rendering the Banks Power Pack completely useless?

If it was R&P with an electric motor, I could help you. However, I am not familiar with adjusting hydraulic driven slides yet, but I need to learn more about them as I now have three on our Dynasty that we purchased earlier this year. I would send Chris Throgmartin a personal message as he is our resident slide expert.

Is it a rack & pinion electric driven slide or is it hydraulic? Do you know the brand of slide mechanism?

Don't know which model ESCO switch you have, LPTBRD or the 65N. The LPTBRD switch has the shore relay closed ALL the time as the default. Whereas I believe the 65N has both relays open until it detects which power source is being used. I am not positive, but I remember Bill Groves (RIP) stating something in regard to that. Both have the time delay board for the generator so it will come up to speed and producing power PRIOR to closing the switch. The caution has always been to remove all high amp loads BEFORE changing power sources. There has been nothing stating that one should remove the shore power completely before starting the generator. I have always removed high amp loads prior to starting the generator. The LPTBRD Transfer switch is still the original one in my previous Windsor so it's now 21 years old.

Once you find the direct short to ground and correct it, problem solved. Start tracing wires to see if one might be chaffed and touching the frame.

The people at Rome Truck Parts & Repair were very helpful in supplying the parts for my wiper system. Contact (rometruckparts.com) Is it only the driver's side or both? I had to replace the motor crank when both sides traveled way past their end point. The driver's side actually went off the windshield.

Anything is possible depending on how much time and money you are willing to part with. People create custom mod's for almost anything these days.

Try looking in the Monacoers Parts List for possible vendors.

The only wet area on the entire outside of the hose is where the fluid is seeping out. If it was leaking from the inside someplace in a different location, I would think that the outside casing would be somewhat wet also along the path to where it is actually dripping. I just need it to stop for our trip back home plus give me enough time to find a shop to make up the hoses for me.

Veurink's RV is probably your best bet and fairly reasonable too. Pay close attention to the size, number of notches and dimensions. Very important! Veurink's describes the details specifically so you don't order the wrong item.

Good point, Scotty. He didn't clarify which Aladdin System he has in his coach. I really don't know the differences between a regular Aladdin and the Junior Aladdin other than possibly the Junior has less features. menus and screens.