Ivan K

I just checked it on our Trace 3012 with RC7GS since I never paid attention to it and the charge light is out when I unplug shore. Makes sense to me also.

I know there is a big age difference between ours and yours but assume there is a relay involved in your setup just as there is in ours. Clearly marked as ICC Power in our FRB and easy to check for me. ICC controls my LED headlights as well as markers depending whether are on or off. But I don't use it much anyway, I stick with momentary high beam and flasher switches instead.

You can follow the convention or wire it to match the toad if you not towing anything else. When I used to tow my trailer with a race car, I had the brake wire intentionally miswired with tail lights to prevent theft, at least at night. Would have been better to swap with aux charging but not all vehicles are wired for that.

Was it while engine running? If so, that would likely explain it.

What your pictures show are the door seal regulators but I'm afraid only you can tell where the bubbles are coming from, hard to tell from the picture.

I'll keep the electric AH portion running next week here in TX. That alone keeps the basement plumbing safe and has back in the 2021 deep freeze and interior stayed in 40's but I kept eye on it and had to start the genny when power went out for a day or so.

I'll also miss Ray. When I noticed his unusual silence around Christmas, I sent him a PM knowing his birthday was on the 27th and hoped he is just celebrating on a cruise or something like that... well, he is on a much different journey. R.I.P Ray.

Hmm, our ISM 500 AC belt turns nothing but the AC. If I did not want AC, I would just remove the belt. Is your ISM that much different? Didn't they use ISX in those years?

It happens when the toilet fan is on and all the coach windows and vents closed. It has nowhere to suck the air from than from the black tank when flushed or if the seal failed.

Hmm, wonder what they used to make it only last 4-5 years. Job security? I resealed ours, 6 sections, in 2016/17 and no fogging yet. Used the DK Hardware stuff.

Yes that is strange if only the middle pieces were missing but looking at the picture where you hold the lifter, is the piece between your finger tips the rod seat or does it have a check ball in it? Can't tell.

Here is a disassembled lifter so you can tell what's missing and hopefully not in the belly of the engine.

Just a random Google search brings OEM (supposedly) lifter sets on ebay for reasonable cost IMO. Have you actually confirmed that the suspect lifter was bad and not the solenoid valve? I don't really get why the cam would have to be changed for non-MDS since half of the OEM lifters are already solid and the MDS ones act as solid most of the time. Unless they change the power curve to something better than stock.

I don't know about a laminated window in a 2000 Sig, mine is a dual pane 3 part window but yes, the removal is a bit harder because of the clearance between the lower window frame and dash. I used a racheting wrench with a screwdriver tip inserted into it.

If you need a quick answer since it is getting late, the cables that you see from the top are just short jumpers to a splitter accessible from inside, below the unit. From those splitters the path continues to a thermostat and an other daisy chained unit so you can see both of them on the thermostat screen.

I had a couple nuts where I had no leverage to break them loose with only couple of fingers that could reach the wrench and when I positioned an airgun on them, I could not reach its trigger. Ended up tying the trigger and had my son connect the other end of hose while I held the gun. The nut was out in fraction of a second. Whatever works...

If you have air plumbing diagram and the front ride hight supply is on the same PPV as the horn, then that would be my likely suspect. If separate, the ride hight valve setup would be next. Unless you have air leveling, there is nothing electronic involved other than an air dump valve and you would hear it if leaking that fast. But visually inspecting the right hight rod connection from center of the axle to ride valve would be the first and easiest thing to do.

Has he reused the controller cable from the old one? Maybe the short or whatever is there? I have second traveller over the years without changing the cable and have no problem but who knows.

If the lifter roller looks good and same as others, the cam would likely be good. Of course a dial caliper comparison would be best while rotating the cam. Does the lifter pin look locked in just like the one for exhaust and holds it solid while under pressure trying to compress it?

Also, depending on your AH model, both electric and diesel system may be controlled by the same tank mounted thermostat or by separate thermostats with different trigger temps. In our case, diesel kicks in if electric can't keep up and the fluid temp drops enough to start the burner to help out. I keep both switches on in cold weather or for showers if we have hookups.

Good deal. I used needle nose to hold the harness connectors while reconnecting the pump. If you decide to keep the bypass, there should be a way to keep the pump going with a relay circuit and the status light wire or hour meter lead.

Pressurizing the lifter like what an activated solenoid or a proposed bypass plug would do, is what makes the lifter collapse with only spring pressure keeping it extended but not enough to open the valve. And that is what you appear to have now on cylinder one. Both intake an exhaust should act the same once the cycle is done. With no oil pressure on the pin, the lifter should lock again and act as a solid lifter but if the pin fails to return to lock for whatever reason, you get what you have. By removing MDS lifters, you still have to modify the PCM so it does not cut off fuel and spark.

An other option would be to cut or remove the corresponding pin on controller connector and use that lead for power to pump, if you can reach it. The pin number and connector would depend on your Spec code, A, B or C+ are different. Unless you want to take the cover apart...

No access door on mine but I managed to get them into the round hole on the side, in your picture. Not the easiest but I had to test it before replacing the pump in the dirt at Las Vegas Bay campground.

The pump will run until you remove its power, just like with priming and fuel will just return to the tank until you start it. The generator will stop with the regular switch because the fuel actuator should cut off but you can kill it either way except it would throw a code. Once you locate the pump connectors (it may take some fishing for them), the simple male on pump side is where positive comes on. Confirmed by a physical pump marking.