Ivan K

Regarding the ujoints, I don't like using a hammer on my rig and this tool makes removal effortless.

I suppose once the pressures equalize, temp changes might take effect due to different volumes or inclines and g-forces if driving and braking. Or just a grain of dirt or seal scar that moves around, who knows. I had it happen myself before replacing the seals and never had to do anything with the valves. Just an other, cheaper possibility if you can do it yourself.

Hmm, did not know it was optional. Would not want to be opening the engine access just to plug or unplug in the cold. Suppose you at least have a breaker for it.

Yep, block heater. Should have an outlet in its reach. I just keep it plugged in eventhough I never needed to turn it on but never know.

Yes, it still can be used for heating without the fresh water.

Or a cylinder piston seal....a simple oring

The coil should keep firing when you put power to it for test. Mine was intermittent until it finally quit in the past. Normally its power comes from the controller along with fuel pump power so the problem could be there but there is also a connection under the motor cover in my case that could be problematic.

You would likely also need removal and installer tools for the ujoint cups, looking at the corrosion. There's no space for a sledge hammer like truckers might use. These are not like the usual automotive joint straps.

Our ISM/4060 combo also only has an actual dipstick in a vertical pipe on driver side of the tranny but easily accessible under the bed and a decent diameter for good size strainer. Not a drop spilled with 8.5 gal refill for a deep pan.

I know that lithium are happiest with below top voltage when unused but yes, the Victron charger has a default setting for lithium to include float, of course it also has custom option to change it all to whatever else.

Interesting, even my Victron solar charger has a float of 13.5V for LiFePo4 setting and Battle Born indicates that while not necessary, 13.6V and below is OK for float: bulk and absorption: 14.2-14.6 volts (aiming for a sweet spot of 14.4 is recommended) float: 13.6

I was thinking the same when I compare Battleborn's recommendations to my old Xantrex's specs. What would the problem be here?

Is there a specific question about the Xantrex? I have the old 3012 MSW and it still works well, outside of SOC reading that makes little sense to me compared to an other meter.

Isn't that criminal? Where is that?

Haha, no X rated situation at that age. Yes, he had a cover on it, in fact, I helped him to reuse my old baggage door gas struts to lift the cover on hinges easily. He had a bad back and this was his therapy.

We spent one winter in south TX beside a guy from Nebraska with a hot tub on a trailer behind his Class C and used it every day. Nothing wrong with that.

I watched the presentation, took few snapshots but the recording will be made available on their site, maybe already is but I haven't looked for it.

Fast blinking after it is level? Does not sound right compared to mine eventhough you likely have a different version, mine just stays steady ON. I would try to turn auto leveling OFF and then leave it in manual mode, do you get a yellow light for the front by the 25 minute mark when the system would have otherwise woken up if in auto? Just to get some understanding what triggers the rear dump which apparently gets overdone if really needed. If you have a reset button, you could try that first.

To me it looks like a leak at the passenger drive axle bags, lines or either valve. Tag bags are isolated from drives by a separate sixpack and a leak at tag would not cause this much leaning. Definitely correct your front tires direction as Frank pointed out, before you crack the fender. And it does not have to be an expensive fix, worst case a new airbag, everything else is cheaper, at least in parts cost.

I had submitted a question about my current hybrid coolant since i used Zerex last time, due to availability, and already had a discussion and an answer, in case it helps you too. He said the 3 way test strips would be an incomplete test on this HOAT and recommended their lab test kit. From Fleetquard Materials Science Engineering Chemist: .....While we try to recommend people using a full OAT for longevity and ease of service, hybrids still get the job done. Given that is it only about 2 years old and 20K miles on the coolant, I would expect it to have plenty of useable life left. As Jay mentioned though, the only was to know for sure is to test it. We sell Kits to have them sent off to a lab and they will give you a report back with some general information and overall health of the coolant. The part Number is CC2706. If you have any additional questions or need help with the lab report feel free to reach out to myself or Jay.

Hmm, I don't have to perform such acrobatics with our Alcoa wheels.

In my opinion, the ABS light while stationary would have to do with electrical parts, cables, not a dislocated sensor. Maybe a modulator valve but only way to know for sure is to read the codes. May not be a problem at all. As for blocking the body, I use 11" blocks and additional jack stands under the rear vertical tubes between drive and tag wheels. Ramps would certainly give me more space but I still fit under it, unless the tires blow out and then the stands come into play... even less of a chance in the front with run flats inserts.

If you don't use the battery 'Cut-Out' switch, I would just eliminate the potential trouble. One of mine was getting intermittent and I just bypassed them both. The picture might help. It also dropped my parasitic draw to well below 1A.

Our Sig has 2 salesman solenoids beside each other, triggered by the same purple ground wire from the switch and I'd suspect 02 would be similar. So either one of the two could have dropped if some 12v circuits from them still work.

Your salesman switch by the door and if not that, one of your solenoids in the pass side engine room. All the light run on 12 V so the breakers are not it.