Ivan K

You also have options for the controllers price range, the left one is half price and works just as well.

In my case of 2000 Sig it was for the dash flip-up receiver with backup camera and attached CD changer and GPS drive. The JVC receiver quit before we got the rig so i don't even know how it all worked together but it came out with some huge cable bundles and ended up in a box with broken RV stuff.

Seems to me that the glass moved, as it should to certain extend if there is a leveling issue or bump twisting the body, but it should be floating in the rubber and not pull it off of the body. Since the bottom corner has not slipped out, that's probably what happened. The glass should not be glued to the seal and if it isn't, I would squeeze windshield urethane sealant under the outside lip of the rubber and push it back onto the body where it should be, while level. Tape it in place until cured. That's what I would do.

Does the stand pipe get as hot as with the heaters? Our fridge actually cools better on propane. Not plugged up under the top vent so the hot air can pass through? Agree that the refrigerant does not know a difference if it heats up the same way.

Yes, if you can pull the shaft valve out in one piece. Depending on the engine, it could be made of two pieces held together by a screw. This is a breakdown for my ISM, for illustration. The shaft by itself is pricy so I don't even use it, it does not leak that much for just a filter replacement.

The black plastic turn valve has a couple sealing orings but since you are replacing the whole housing, it does not apply to you.

It will drain some and will feel heavy if you have to reach far. It surprised me when it slipped out of the ceiling mount.

My old systems readings varied with battery voltage. May not be your problem but maybe something to compare. Finally went with SeeLevel.

I have same connector for roadmaster toad air brake. Same on the toad.

Unfortunately my Villa seats use different wiring color codes because I don't have any yellow wires coming out of the heater switch and couldn't even tell where they go without removing the seat. There's a lot of wires in those bundles...

Who made the seats? If Villa, I would look if it is visible and similar. Years ago I called Villa, inquiring about wiring diagram and was told they don't keep them...

I have K&N reusable filters on go-fast gasoline cars that need a lot of air at near 8k RPM and aren't meant to last for ever but would not dare to put them on my diesels. After few washes I could almost see through them.

My RC7GS was beeping and display changing random unreadable 'characters' when we got the coach. No remote functions worked. No resets corrected it and I ended up replacing it. Back then, 2016, there was a repair service offered on ebay for $75, not sure about now. I got lucky finding a new one.

Our fridge valve gets water from manablock port t-ed with cold washer/dryer feed, if there is any similarity.

Being of similar vintage, both my air pressure sensor and buzzer are under the top dash access cover. Both failed on me in the past. Park brake sender is hanging off the plunger bottom.

If you get it working, I think it is a good idea to drill an access hole through the cover side to be able to adjust water amount for the tray if you ever need to do it, without removing it again.

If you want to play with it, you'll have to remove it to take the plastic cover off. There are test points to quickly run it through a cycle to see whether it stops or not at a certain point. It's just a standard unit used by other manufacturers, not Norcold specific. YouTube has videos on it.

If it is a M11 with Celest in 98, the only moving part would be the pedal, no throttle body or manually operable shut off valve

Ours had sheet metal screws from the top and both sides. Not easily accessible without taking out false walls and bunch of stuff. I slid a metal cutting blade into the space to feel them and cut off.

I had a top shock eye open up on those old bilsteins and beating into the floor when we got the coach. The new ones were made much stronger. Worth checking as Ben suggested.

Not sure about the rear but up front I have a hose continuing from the air duct into overhead cabinets to cool entertainment electronics. That would be my access if I had to do it, then under a-pillar cover to dash. Hopefully you'll find the old cable intact to avoid that.

Besides the point but I often find it amazing how many simple switched circuits are made complicated and expensive, being custom and in no time obsolete, just to get few fancy looking diodes and on/off mosfets in place of easily replaceable relays, integrated into a so called "controller". Makes sense using datalinks instead of huge wire bundles and some cool looking indicators can be helpful but often at a major cost to repair for a regular person. Certainly cheaper and easier to assemble new and profitable to service as they WILL fail, which I believe was and is the point these days everywhere. All these new coaches with touchscreen integrated systems will eventually make the few who will still know how to fix or work around busy, or the owners stranded.

Our Trace inverter preheats/prime the generator for 15s, then 2s pause, then cranks.

Yeah that is a pretty extreme angle for the line exiting PTC fitting. Might be able to tie the line to an other or a frame part that doesn't move to fix the angle and stop leaking.

Yeah, Jim, I taped ours to a battery side inside the opening between our 4 batteries so it doesn't get influenced by outside air but whatever works.