Ivan K

Yes, correct, it was drive axle sixpack valve letting air into the bags in my case.

Ok, I guess that eliminates the stuck relays then. Don't know the type of your relays, automotive or not but I would test for voltage between the coil female pins, with relay removed and expect there would be none with key OFF. Just an idea not knowing anything about your coach.

I have spent a lot of time under the coach last fall eliminating air leaks, replaced all PPVs, bunch of fittings, replaced orings in sixpacks, hydraulics etc. All seemed good after that. Couple of days ago I pulled the coach out of the shop, shut it at ride hight and half an hour later noticed a significant leaning. Driver side bags dropped 2 inches. Here we go again. Raised the low driver side manually to level and it stayed that way. Weird. Drove it back into the shop yesterday and it leaned again after shutting down. Initially thinking I have to work on the low driver side, I investigated closer and found that while driver side goes down 2", passenger side goes up the same but only if there is plenty pressure in the tanks. Ok, that makes sense now and explains why it was so seemingly random. Solved by replacing the plunger in passenger side sixpack raise valve. Five minute job without even removing the valve body. All good now. I just thought to mention it, it's not always a leak that can be detected with bubbly water and sometimes counterintuitive, just if someone runs into similar situation.

Light years ahead from our coach but a would assume that you have a couple of relays marked as Ignition and Accesory in the FRB? Since your gauges also stay active, I would check the ignition relay. It should be open with key OFF. If it stays closed, it is either stuck or getting power from the key switch when it should not. My relays are the same as salesman solenoids and easy to check, no idea about yours. If it behaves as it should, then you have a backfeed somewhere.

I wish I had drilled for the thermocouple when I had the turbo out few months ago, just like I had done in my race car headers with a recorder when running a lot of nitrous. Just as I put the turbo back in, I found the long time mysterious bundle of spare wires, engine room to dash, oh well. Van, where have you positioned the thermocouple, manifold or past the turbo? I could certainly drill the exhaust tube past it but not sure about accuracy at that point. Thanks.

Just lift a corner of the old sticker and peel it off. Mine came off clean, no residue to clean.

I think the rules only say that brake lights have to be red, nothing specific about how it is made to be red.

Can you route the broken belt the shorter way, move the tensioner where it should be, mark the belt and compare the lenght? Probably not that easy with rear radiator but maybe doable? I know an inch makes a big difference with belts. BTW, is it the compressor clutch that's seized along with the compressor or is it free with AC off?

Monaco certainly did not make your washer reservoir, if you google images for it, you would very likely find a replacement that looks like yours. If it had a pump molded in, it will typically come with the new pump included. Mine is at Napa, besides number other places.

I just use a ratcheting tie down strap to compress struts to desired length, works for me too. I often leave some minor activities for a slow day on a trip, I get bored easily...

If you go with oil, when by a truck stop with a chrome shop, look for a "Hubdometer Cap" that might fit you wheel. Not sure about those Allen screw situation. Or Google one that would match your wheel manufacturers dimensions. I have switched to oil bath inspection hub caps just to be able to look at the bearings. My chrome covers are easy to take off.

I missed the observation that generator slide does not work either. Looking at HWH diagram, the only lockout for generator should be the park brake switch. Ours does not even use that however.

Somewhere in my stash of documentation it says that the bedroom switch is branched off the midship switch, which in my case is above the fridge. Just an other possibility since everyone's coach seems different. I would expect it to be detailed in the front to rear wire bundle diagram if you have one.

I would guess that under the steps you would have a reservoir for the slideouts. Have you checked there?

The unsightly black mass on the lip of your gasket is most likely someone's failed attempt to seal a loose leaky gasket. When I had my windshield replaced, Coach Glass sent me tubes of black Bostik 70-08A Windshield Adhesive. The installers only used a tiny bit of one tube to seal where the gasket seemed loose from the body opening. None on the glass itself. Not over the lip like in your picture but he lifted the gasket lip and ran it between the rubber and body. None of the sealant is visible after cleanup. BTW, I would think that there should also be a gutter strip over the top and partial sides tightly sealed to the windshield gasket. I can't find a link for the one I have right now but surely someone would know a source. And I don't use silicon anywhere except maybe around the bathroom counter top.

Different micron ratings. 10 micron (3242) first in the path from tank , 2 micron in front of the high pressure pump.

Our 2000 hydraulic pump would run without fluid and is powered by chassis batteries off the same post in FRB as the generator starter. If the generator turns over, the pump should have power to its solenoid as well. Baggage door switches under slide could prevent it from working too.

They are easy to test before throwing parts at it and to confirm which is which. As Chargerman said, the likelihood that both in the pair are bad is not great, possible but worth testing first with a simple ohm meter or whatever circuit tester. Open vs closed with brakes applied and released, with air in tanks of course.

Do you mean the parts circled in red? These should be your cruise cancel pressure switches, normally closed. The two large round ones above would then be low pressure brake switches, normally open. The part numbers would give it away.

Pressure switches. One pair for brakes, the other to disable cruise. If you are certain they are bad, they typically have a visible part number on them to Google. Since they are simple 2 wire switches, there should be plenty of hits for them on the net.

Our 2000 came with a Jabsco accumulator tank and I give it at least a partial credit for keeping the original Shurflo pump still running. We almost exclusively dry camp so the pump and tank get good use.

Haha, awesome 😎

Years ago I replaced our single step with the following, of course the price is from the good old days. Exact match for mounts. The step itself meassures 24", at the yellow line, edge to edge.

Lucky you with the hinged fenders, no such luck for me.

Any good insurance tip in N. Texas? I pay way way more than the quotes I am seeing here, like 1600/yr and could not get any better quotes. And thats after a proof that it is garaged and no claims ever. Auto Owners does not operate here.