Ivan K

Who made the seats? If Villa, I would look if it is visible and similar. Years ago I called Villa, inquiring about wiring diagram and was told they don't keep them...

I have K&N reusable filters on go-fast gasoline cars that need a lot of air at near 8k RPM and aren't meant to last for ever but would not dare to put them on my diesels. After few washes I could almost see through them.

My RC7GS was beeping and display changing random unreadable 'characters' when we got the coach. No remote functions worked. No resets corrected it and I ended up replacing it. Back then, 2016, there was a repair service offered on ebay for $75, not sure about now. I got lucky finding a new one.

Our fridge valve gets water from manablock port t-ed with cold washer/dryer feed, if there is any similarity.

Being of similar vintage, both my air pressure sensor and buzzer are under the top dash access cover. Both failed on me in the past. Park brake sender is hanging off the plunger bottom.

If you get it working, I think it is a good idea to drill an access hole through the cover side to be able to adjust water amount for the tray if you ever need to do it, without removing it again.

If you want to play with it, you'll have to remove it to take the plastic cover off. There are test points to quickly run it through a cycle to see whether it stops or not at a certain point. It's just a standard unit used by other manufacturers, not Norcold specific. YouTube has videos on it.

If it is a M11 with Celest in 98, the only moving part would be the pedal, no throttle body or manually operable shut off valve

Ours had sheet metal screws from the top and both sides. Not easily accessible without taking out false walls and bunch of stuff. I slid a metal cutting blade into the space to feel them and cut off.

I had a top shock eye open up on those old bilsteins and beating into the floor when we got the coach. The new ones were made much stronger. Worth checking as Ben suggested.

Not sure about the rear but up front I have a hose continuing from the air duct into overhead cabinets to cool entertainment electronics. That would be my access if I had to do it, then under a-pillar cover to dash. Hopefully you'll find the old cable intact to avoid that.

Besides the point but I often find it amazing how many simple switched circuits are made complicated and expensive, being custom and in no time obsolete, just to get few fancy looking diodes and on/off mosfets in place of easily replaceable relays, integrated into a so called "controller". Makes sense using datalinks instead of huge wire bundles and some cool looking indicators can be helpful but often at a major cost to repair for a regular person. Certainly cheaper and easier to assemble new and profitable to service as they WILL fail, which I believe was and is the point these days everywhere. All these new coaches with touchscreen integrated systems will eventually make the few who will still know how to fix or work around busy, or the owners stranded.

Our Trace inverter preheats/prime the generator for 15s, then 2s pause, then cranks.

Yeah that is a pretty extreme angle for the line exiting PTC fitting. Might be able to tie the line to an other or a frame part that doesn't move to fix the angle and stop leaking.

Yeah, Jim, I taped ours to a battery side inside the opening between our 4 batteries so it doesn't get influenced by outside air but whatever works.

Temp sensor for inverter, the other likely for a solar controller if you have one. Typically the eye goes on negative battery post but I'd prefer not to have any polarity on it in case the insulation breaks. I'd just tape it to the battery.

I would have expected a bit more from the balancemasters powder coating. I haven't taken my front balancemasters off this year yet but last year they were just dirty, since 2019. Will see how they compare to galvanized centramatics on the rear when I take them off one day. I see that your drive and tag balancers are the same, my tag centramatics look just like the fronts with the dish shape.

I would agree if there is enough miles to make a difference. In real life, I don't know if truckers would care, they blow more tires than we do. I did like Ben says eventhough with my 5/7 years F/R replacement schedule it will take a couple times before the fronts are younger than rears now. At least I keep the best old tire for spare.

I just had the same symptom Doug reported recently. Went to check on the accumulator tank pressure and water ran out of the schrader valve. I like what the tank does for us so I went shopping for a replacement. Got a shock finding out that the OEM Jabsco tank sells for well over $200, even over $300. What? It appears to be same as the one in our house that I could get for $28 (@Zoro) just not in blue. Works the same. Monaco certainly did not go cheap on this one...

If you have soot, you likely have exhaust leak, manifold or turbo flanges. Worst case a crack in either. No way should it cost 11k.

Yes, of course you are right, 1/4 on all my airbags, I had a Joey moment.... yours could be larger though

One more note, if you are replacing the front valve, it likely will have a PTC T-fitting on one port, mine leaked once manhandled. The fitting would replace the compression part on that port to split left-right towards the sixpack manifold. Something to be prepared for if it happens. My lines are 1/8, yours may be larger.

The valves usually come with the brackets, I just find it easier to reuse the old ones. If you mean the rod between the axle and arm, it depends how good or bad the rubber ends are. Mine are still good but they are inexpensive if needed. I just have a spare set, in case.

You don't really care for the mounts and even the arm, it is easiest to just leave them in place and only replace the valve body. 2 bolts and air lines, easy that way.

Or just park it with empty bags? I would put a wet finger on the exhaust hole on the sixpack first and feel for a leak.