Ivan K

Don, you need to have access from front of the generator. It is relatively easy access, even better with a slide. I am pretty certain my brush and ring issue (same of the two as yours) was due to desert dust, the whole generator part is cooled by unfiltered air, sucked from a bottom opening. Replace the bearing and it's oring since it has to be pulled anyway. I have done this at about 3500 hrs.

If you have the Norcold refer, the fans get turned on as needed by a thermostatic switch at the top back corner of the box. If you are in a cold weather, it may not have activated yet.

Don, If that ring is too gone to fix with a stone like Brad says, yes that part can be replaced, I have done it myself.

That sounds like a shotgun repair, why would you need rotor/stator to replace the slip rings, makes no sense if it runs.

I personally would remove the window frame since you have to bend it way more than just 1/2" to overcome the 'memory'. Still less trouble than hunting for new glass and taking it out anyway. Even if it doesn't break the glass, might break the seal.

My ISM procedure says 40 pounds.

The gasket is still on the block. Just peel it off.

Tape a magnet to the door frame switch.

Yes, I had to do the same on a ~30' long connection between tanks. If it was just a short run, i would replace it. Don't understand why some of the lines were cut so short. I used DOT compression fitting so there would not be an other potential leak point. NAPA sells tubing per foot.

There are major differences between models and years. Pictures of the valve, the controls, hvac box above the generator would give you better chance to get answers. I know my system but it could be very different yours.

Don, from what I have seen, it depends, in Utah at Mavericks I just punched the code at the pump, some other times I had to go in to show the code so it could be either way. If away from major routes, it still is often the best I could get. But I only have to go in once, not like old times they would want to hold on to your card until done.

I never had a problem either, sometimes Mudflap is a better option. I only do truck stops. Wish that discounts like the one below came back again...

I don't know what ABS system you have but I learned to trust my error codes, they were always right in my case. If it does not say wheel sensor, it's not it. If it says 'short', I unplug the cable and see if it remains or changes to 'open'. That tells me whether to check the cable or the part.

Nice write-up. I have done the same to our Isuzu couple of years ago and had the same observation and solution to the shroud clearance. I had to do I bit of plastic welding as it had some cracks too. Ours has over 4k hours so I also replaced the collector, brushes and rotor bearing. Couple of the injection pumps had a leak while on the road but only need new orings to stop that.

Unfortunately, it can take time for the tiny leaks to show. I have spent weeks watching the coach in my shop slowly leaking down to one side or an other, reparing and replacing parts for each symptoms. The external leaks are usually easy to find but I now believe rebuilding the valves caused a self inflicted wound to internal plunger seals because it is impossible to get them oriented the same way they were positioned prior to removal. The seats get imprinted in the rubber face and the smallest imperfection gets them to leak, ever so slowly to catch it in a day. Sure, autoleveling would deal with it in most cases but it bothered me enough to not leave it. Even the new valves you can buy are already imprinted. New plungers that never were installed in a spring loaded valve have fixed my issues now. For illustration, blue is a used plunger.

Monaco hasn't even used the same axles on same models the same year as I found in our case. You'll have to get your axle make/model to get correct parts.

My ruptured expansion tank bladder would not cause the pump to constantly run, just like if it wasn't there. A leaky diverter valve returning water back into the tank would certainly do it and cause lower pressure in the system.

Because you mentioned accelerating cures it, I thought of voltage variation or vibrations. I would at least make sure the connection is solid. The pump filter is a good idea too.

Should see stable full voltage with IGN ON. The solenoid could be allowing the internal disk valve to close and you would see the drop in pressure. I have corrected previous note, the little filter on top of pump is in FRONT of the solenoid valve.

This is where the solenoid is and where to check the voltage. Behind the marked hose in your updated pic.

Looking closer at your last picture, you already have a hose on the test port so that must be for your gauge. That port is past shutoff valve so that makes it even more of a suspect. These arent expensive. The little filter you mentioned is past in front of the test port. If the regulator failed, you would have to open up the pump...

You don't say where the fuel pressure gauge is hooked up but here is how manual pump test is done on ISM, presumably same. Since your pressure drop is intermittent, possibly RPM related, I would look at the shutoff solenoid voltage stability. No idea what the trash in your picture is, you could be right. Assume it isn't even a little magnetic, like rust.

What version AH do you have? Our fans get power through relays and fuse in Aquahot box but that's an older unit.

Looks like you are 4 screws away from seeing what's hiding and clicking behind it? Just pulling the whole panel a little?

Don't give up, the last scary incident wasn't even related to motorhoming, would happen regardless. At least you did not need Uber to get back home!