Ivan K

The rod and valve in your pic is part of ride hight system and if that valve was leaking, it would be dropping both front corners.

If you have air leveling, it certainly could be a leak at the sixpack. The fist step for me would be to figure whether it is caused by a drop in the front or rear corner.

Get a Microair thermostat and control it all from your phone or tablet. That's what I do for all the AC units from anywhere. Switch to heat, cool, fan, set temp, whatever. It uses Bluetooth or wifi depending on distance.

Short version - Your inverter/charger is to primarily charge house batteries but on your Signature, there will be an arrangement to charge chassis as well.. It could be a maintainer or a solenoid relay which does that when house is at a certain charging voltage. Therefore the temp sensor goes on house batteries. As far as the disconnects, you might want to test it to be sure but my inverter does not get disconnected by house disconnect. Chassis disconnect has no effect on inverter.

According to my documentation, my wheels can turn 40 degrees. King pin is the center of rotation and is about flush with inner wheel sidewall. The outside center will move slightly back and in, giving you an advantage. Should be able to guesstimate from this info and tire size.

I can't tell if grizzlys Signature would follow the same logic but the front unit was the only one controlled by the front thermostat so there was nothing else in play on ours. Center and rear units were on a bedroom thermostat with no connection to the front. It is easy to swap the thermostats front to rear to help isolate the issue. Besides the point but now I have all 3 units on the same microair with remote controll ability.

Good deal. You don't even have to use the valve if you can change the filter quickly. Since you mention a screw, you have a 2 piece shaft and yes, remove the screw and the now separated pieces.

Yeah, lot of fake scam sites on the net, I would not even consider such irreversible payment method. ISC/ISL compressor rebuild kit from Cummins is like $400.

Yes that is it. Glad you made it!

Sorry, I thought you know where the display is. Mine is inside, above the fridge. Black panel with greenish display and touch buttons. Says RC7 GS on it. I'll get a pic if you don't see it.

Hold UP and DOWN simultaneously until a beep and you are in the programming menu. Same to get out of it. Down to different parameters, side arrow to change them. I bet we have a manual in files. Set AGS as you like but have to set time of day to make it work. There recommended parameters in some recent RC7GS post also but it should be quite logical.

Yes that's it.

If you have Xantrex inverter, there is no AGS box, it's all done from the RC7GS display. Magnum is different and someone else would know.

It would certainly effect cooling ability in hot weather, especially with sun on that side. Unfortunately, unless the refer is on slide and you have a vent to get to the back top side of the box, it is hard to test or replace the temp switch without taking the fridge out of it's place. Same for replacing the fans if failed but there should be more than one fan. I don't remember where the fan power is coming from or whether there is a fuse for them in the black box at the back, you manual should show it. As a dirty workaround, rigging an auxiliary fan into the vent hole...

I am with Mike on this, I only carry few things based on my previous failures. A couple of good used belts, fuel filter and pair of brushes just because I have them for next time. I also have a set of those 'special' Injector pump orings because they failed on our last trip and I ordered extras. Our 3LD1 pumps had PITA penta bolts that I replaced for regulars to save myself a hustle on the road. I haven't heard of anyone else having leaks at those pumps on a generator but 2 of mine did, at around 4k hours.

Worst case, there are some decent looking 10k rotors on ebay, like this one for $400 which is a fraction of cummins price and looks great. Just need to confirm the fitment. Also complete rotor/stator pair for not much more. https://tinyurl.com/54pyhmaa

That format does not work on any of my android Samsung tablets and phone so I just skip them. I bet there is an app for it but I got too many already.

Well, that's a bummer, Don. I bought mine in 2018 from Reliable Industries in Luisiana but they don't have it listed anymore now when I looked. I know Eurton Electric in CA rewinds rotors/stators and might possibly have some stashed? They did my stator and it was a quick turnaround when Cummins could not get them, for a lot cheaper too.

If it really is badly flattened, like by dropping the coach over a concrete block at some campground back-in sites, probably easiest repair would be a flexible piece like used on ours. But it is a 5" pipe, a little flatness won't make huge difference.

Blow the dust off to see if there is a hole large enough to pull it through. Yours is totally different from my fitting arrangement...

I have an air operated cover and the only time I could take it out was when I had the door frame removed for a different reason. Some time ago I noticed when the generator was all the way out, there could be an access from below but have not needed to confirm that. It just looked like there could have been an access panel underneath an undercoating, not sure.

Don, word of caution, before disconnecting rotor wires from the collector, measure and mark which ones go to each ring so you get them back the same way. I had 4 connections on the old rings (in the picture) but the new ones come with 2 connections only. I think it is logical to do that but wanted to remind you.

You can download your model specific Onan manuals here https://www.cummins.com/generators/rv-generators/rv-generator-manuals

I also agree, piecing possibly obsolete parts wouldn't be easy or cheap. I would also look for an axle from same manufacturer as the other axle so the maintenance parts are the same.

In your generator manual should be list like this one.