Ivan K

Maybe you don't have the bundle but mine was in this corner of the engine room. I don't think I would have found it looking for it from underneath. It ends with a coiled loop behind center of dash and I had to tone it out to locate.

The new RC7GS was less than that, back then...

When I said 'new remote', I was referring to identical 'new old stock' remote that I acquired in 2016 to replaced the broken one. And yes, AGS is a function of the same remote. Without the remote, inverter can be switched on/off by a manual switch on the box but that's all. Inverter comes back after a reset with previously saved parameters except TOD which disables AGS and there is no way to see or set parms without the remote's display and functioning touch buttons. As far as I know, the new remotes use a bus communication network, not backwards compatible.

There should not be much oil lost if you had to remove the oil filter to gain access, at least not on my engine since most all of it will be in the pan. Just as much as drained when you removed the filter for oil change.

I bet your remote failed. I got curious last night and plugged my old remote in. Display works fine and shows what's expected but leds show battery full which it wasn't, charge light once a while goes to very fast flashing sequence and none of the buttons work like if the reverse communication was out. Checked the board and plug, reseated the eprom, nothing visibly wrong on it. Back to new remote and all works fine. Good luck and pls let us know if you get it repaired, I would not mind to have a working spare if it made financial sense.

These same pressures work for me too. Our 200 gal fuel tank is 7 feet back from front axle and that makes a difference.

About the conduit, I have one extra from the front bulkhead, passenger side behind front axle but it only goes to front of rear axle. It is capped and still unused.

Jim, if you have access to rear passenger side frame rail just forward of the engine, about over the bellhousing, I had a spare bundle of 8 wires in their own sleeve, rolled and tied to the other bundles there. These go all the way to the front dash with plenty of extra lenght. I found ours by chance while adjusting valves and wondering what the extra bulge was.

You don't need to drive but deflate all the bags some and let them go back to ride hight. I think the manual has a writeup on it, it might say to do it couple times up and down. I would have the engine running too in case there are some leaks, so the ride high adjustment is active with plenty of air as if on the road.

Yes, back compatible with Dexron III if you just want to top it of

The regulator pressure should remain steady at which ever preset pressure when the tanks are full, with hwh. That regulated pressure is passed to tag bags through six pack valves in travel mode but there should always be the same regulated pressure to the sixpack ride hight valves. Raising the whole coach will use tank pressure for tags, lifting the tags will deflate the bags and actuate lifting chambers through a separate mac valve. I keep my tag tires at 85 just to keep the bead seated in sharp turns, that's just me.

Just a theory since I do not have an inverter generator. Normally, shutting down due to lack of fuel would throw code 36, i think that is a norm across the diesels.(?) However, with inverter, missing and slowing down of the engine might likely cause drop of output voltage, loaded or not, possible? If that was the case, the expected cause 36 would be masked by your code 13 when the engine is shut down by controller command, and that happens before the engine quits on it own. If the engine is indeed missing, that would be an engine/fuel delivery problem.

Worst case you can try to follow a yellow airline from a front PPV. Not easiest way, of course. All the horn solenoids I have seen had a yellow line coming in.

Wow, that's some exchange rate!

If the Kenwood itself is asking for a security code after being disconnected, you might find a default factory code on the net but if it was changed by previous owner, only a dealer can get a reset code from Kenwood with a proof of ownership.

You also have options for the controllers price range, the left one is half price and works just as well.

In my case of 2000 Sig it was for the dash flip-up receiver with backup camera and attached CD changer and GPS drive. The JVC receiver quit before we got the rig so i don't even know how it all worked together but it came out with some huge cable bundles and ended up in a box with broken RV stuff.

Seems to me that the glass moved, as it should to certain extend if there is a leveling issue or bump twisting the body, but it should be floating in the rubber and not pull it off of the body. Since the bottom corner has not slipped out, that's probably what happened. The glass should not be glued to the seal and if it isn't, I would squeeze windshield urethane sealant under the outside lip of the rubber and push it back onto the body where it should be, while level. Tape it in place until cured. That's what I would do.

Does the stand pipe get as hot as with the heaters? Our fridge actually cools better on propane. Not plugged up under the top vent so the hot air can pass through? Agree that the refrigerant does not know a difference if it heats up the same way.

Yes, if you can pull the shaft valve out in one piece. Depending on the engine, it could be made of two pieces held together by a screw. This is a breakdown for my ISM, for illustration. The shaft by itself is pricy so I don't even use it, it does not leak that much for just a filter replacement.

The black plastic turn valve has a couple sealing orings but since you are replacing the whole housing, it does not apply to you.

It will drain some and will feel heavy if you have to reach far. It surprised me when it slipped out of the ceiling mount.

My old systems readings varied with battery voltage. May not be your problem but maybe something to compare. Finally went with SeeLevel.

I have same connector for roadmaster toad air brake. Same on the toad.

Unfortunately my Villa seats use different wiring color codes because I don't have any yellow wires coming out of the heater switch and couldn't even tell where they go without removing the seat. There's a lot of wires in those bundles...