Ivan K

Temp sensor for inverter, the other likely for a solar controller if you have one. Typically the eye goes on negative battery post but I'd prefer not to have any polarity on it in case the insulation breaks. I'd just tape it to the battery.

I would have expected a bit more from the balancemasters powder coating. I haven't taken my front balancemasters off this year yet but last year they were just dirty, since 2019. Will see how they compare to galvanized centramatics on the rear when I take them off one day. I see that your drive and tag balancers are the same, my tag centramatics look just like the fronts with the dish shape.

I would agree if there is enough miles to make a difference. In real life, I don't know if truckers would care, they blow more tires than we do. I did like Ben says eventhough with my 5/7 years F/R replacement schedule it will take a couple times before the fronts are younger than rears now. At least I keep the best old tire for spare.

I just had the same symptom Doug reported recently. Went to check on the accumulator tank pressure and water ran out of the schrader valve. I like what the tank does for us so I went shopping for a replacement. Got a shock finding out that the OEM Jabsco tank sells for well over $200, even over $300. What? It appears to be same as the one in our house that I could get for $28 (@Zoro) just not in blue. Works the same. Monaco certainly did not go cheap on this one...

If you have soot, you likely have exhaust leak, manifold or turbo flanges. Worst case a crack in either. No way should it cost 11k.

Yes, of course you are right, 1/4 on all my airbags, I had a Joey moment.... yours could be larger though

One more note, if you are replacing the front valve, it likely will have a PTC T-fitting on one port, mine leaked once manhandled. The fitting would replace the compression part on that port to split left-right towards the sixpack manifold. Something to be prepared for if it happens. My lines are 1/8, yours may be larger.

The valves usually come with the brackets, I just find it easier to reuse the old ones. If you mean the rod between the axle and arm, it depends how good or bad the rubber ends are. Mine are still good but they are inexpensive if needed. I just have a spare set, in case.

You don't really care for the mounts and even the arm, it is easiest to just leave them in place and only replace the valve body. 2 bolts and air lines, easy that way.

Or just park it with empty bags? I would put a wet finger on the exhaust hole on the sixpack first and feel for a leak.

Do you have a scangauge or similar to watch for the high oil pressure reading that ECM is reporting? It could be on cold start or maybe it is a bad sensor but I would want to know for sure that I don't have some sort of blockage because comparing the Monaco dash gauge to ECM reading may not be meaningful when the senders are in different locations on the motor, as they are on ours.

Interesting how the Michelin cracking seems to be a hit and miss. My 7 year old Michelins after ~50k miles were still great shape also, when I sold them to a trucker. They spent about 50% time outside. Now on Toyos just because of the cost and they don't and did not smell 😀, made in Japan.

Duey, yes that is the plunger I had to replace, the plastic face insert was leaking. As far as I know, there is no known part number to obtain it individually but Harry has posted a link for possible alternative part not long ago. I have not used it but seems promising: https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-1975-kip-valves-pa-2x1138-ac-plunger-assembly-for-2x1138-24-60-solenoid-valve.aspx

Keith, yes the center on that splined cone is open to slide on the shaft. What Jim said above is what I would do with the step assembly. Sometimes, probably most of times, the whole circumference of the big gear is not actually used and can be repositioned to use the good section. Until next time.. I don't know if the one I have is any good since the step got crushed by a truck. I don't know part number for the switch because I just took mine apart, cleaned and slightly bent the contacts inside. Works for years, like new. It is a two circuit momentary on-off-momentary on, might have a number on it? I never had to replaced my switches, unless they melted it can be fixed. That way I don't have to wait and guess the size fitment.

Couple more wiper parts that should (?) be a match for 2002 Sig.

The motor number is in the picture. The mechanism would have to be reused or ordered from Lipert if broken but if you just need the motor, this is it.

Does you step motor and arm look like this? If so, there's your part number. I saved it from the old step when replacing the whole thing on our 2000 model.

It's been a while since I looked at the old RV30 controller's amperage since it is now only charging chassis batteries but I remember seeing 7A back when it was still hooked up to both banks with factory panel and my understanding was that the current was split between the banks as needed, based on dip switch settings.

Depending on make of your leveling system, the valves could be different. I only know HWH type which was used by other MH manufactures as well. Don't know who made them, doubt they are made in house by HWH but simply don't know. I sourced some old stock Skinner plungers and they fit fine, all I can tell. Coincidence? Maybe. If you want to disprove the weight transfer theory, raise one side by 2" and see what happens to airbag hight on the other side.

Rusty, I heard that HWH sells oring kits but they apparently don't include the third, internal ring. I ordered my spares from theoringstore.com with the following dimensions. Some prefer viton rings, nothing wrong with an overkill but I went with cheaper fluorocarbon (18 each for complete rebuild on a tag rig) since we are dealing with air, not diesel and such in the leveling system.

Lionel, this is how I got my spare recently, for HWH. Coaches without tag, they all will have 3/32 orifice. Tag coaches will also have 2 valves with 5/32 orifice, not important enough to have a spare on hand, for me.

What model HWH do you have, 600 or 2000 or something else. So what happens when you try to lower the front axle if front right is controlled by rear? I can't imagine swapped air lines between front and rear if the respective sixpacks are above their axles. On the other hand, swapping solenoid leads on controller side is possible but unlikely by mistake since they go to different multipin connectors (at least on 600, don't have a 2000), front and rear separately. Also, has it been doing it since you got the coach or just happened for no reason?

Yes, both statement are true. The driver side dropped because of weight transfer when passenger side raised. Once the air leak inflating the passenger side was eliminated, it stays level at correct hight now. All this was happening with air leveling OFF. As far as spare parts, the easiest in this case would be to have a complete spare sixpack valve, depending on manufacturer of your system they are different. I carry one complete spare valve but also have several sets of orings, plungers and a coil to repair a malfunctioning valve if I wasn't in a hurry to just get on the way. The list could be never ending, I just get some extras when I have to fix something, for next time.

There's no dedicated return line, the lines switch function as the slide goes in or out.

Haha, yeah but mostly parts to repair the large parts, not necessarily to replace them.