Ivan K

I can raise the tags enough to get them off of the ground but then the fender is in the way so it doesn't help me. I just jack them up with airbags fully inflated to have enough clearance for a tire spoon to slightly lift it and pull the wheel out. I do one side at a time and have no problem doing it, contrary to popular belief.

Nothing visible is plastic, not sure if inside the rolled up perimeter where the bearing balls are rolling. But judging by the metal on metal sound of the balls rolling, doubt there is plastic in it. Thinking about the situation you described, I would suspect the inner wheel seal being damaged by the heat and leaking.

As I understand, the steel balls inside the lip are in some oil, maybe the seal or tube they are in melted.

Nope, galvanized steel.

I had good luck unscrewing that dirty filter part of the nozzle, soaking it in carb cleaner and blowing out. Have been rotating the few old nozzles for a while now instead of buying potentially counterfeit nozzles elsewhere and it works for me so far. Same for my used oil heater in the shop.

No switches on those individual lamps? I only turn on the ones I need and leave the main switch on all the time.

I personally decided against equalizing and put couple of Powerpulse units on both banks instead. My previous interstate set lasted more than 7 years this way, starting even couple of years longer and all were still good when replaced as a precaution prior to a 7 months long trip. Just did not like the chance of burning something forgotten and the mess it could make.

Diagnostic push button under the dash in my case, blink codes. Others have it in FRB so it depends on the system.

Do you know what ABS system you have? My codes come in pairs, for instance 4-6 would be left rear sensor. I had 17-1 and it was a broken retarder relay wire, so it depends...

Since you have no codes, could the AGS be shutting it down if you have it configured?

Don't leave it on for long, it will destroy the plastic in short time.

If the MDS solenoid valve was being open by erroneous signal from the PCM, it should effect both intake and exhaust valves, right? As I understand, that's not what you observed so probably not the PCMs fault. Still could be confirmed at the PCM connector side if not accessible at the solenoid?

Any chance you have replaced the RC7 remote OR inverter in the past? I have and since then the charge state and time-to-go don't work right, I never trusted them anyway. They never change. I just assume a different non compatible firmware revisions between the units and don't worry about it since I have a different better monitoring way. But it always starts in bulk charging when hooked up and goes through the stages no matter how charged the batteries were and what the solar controller shows for it's state. It just steps faster when already charged. I think that is normal. I don't however have the ACR since my isolator and maintainer still function fine, don't think it matters here.

My ICC kills the headlights if they were ON, besides flashing the markers. I don't like that at night so I use flashers instead, as many truckers do too.

Can you tap into the solenoid power to see if it is actuated, compared to an other? That could give an idea of the PCM suspicion.

I just checked it on our Trace 3012 with RC7GS since I never paid attention to it and the charge light is out when I unplug shore. Makes sense to me also.

I know there is a big age difference between ours and yours but assume there is a relay involved in your setup just as there is in ours. Clearly marked as ICC Power in our FRB and easy to check for me. ICC controls my LED headlights as well as markers depending whether are on or off. But I don't use it much anyway, I stick with momentary high beam and flasher switches instead.

You can follow the convention or wire it to match the toad if you not towing anything else. When I used to tow my trailer with a race car, I had the brake wire intentionally miswired with tail lights to prevent theft, at least at night. Would have been better to swap with aux charging but not all vehicles are wired for that.

Was it while engine running? If so, that would likely explain it.

What your pictures show are the door seal regulators but I'm afraid only you can tell where the bubbles are coming from, hard to tell from the picture.

I'll keep the electric AH portion running next week here in TX. That alone keeps the basement plumbing safe and has back in the 2021 deep freeze and interior stayed in 40's but I kept eye on it and had to start the genny when power went out for a day or so.

I'll also miss Ray. When I noticed his unusual silence around Christmas, I sent him a PM knowing his birthday was on the 27th and hoped he is just celebrating on a cruise or something like that... well, he is on a much different journey. R.I.P Ray.

Hmm, our ISM 500 AC belt turns nothing but the AC. If I did not want AC, I would just remove the belt. Is your ISM that much different? Didn't they use ISX in those years?

It happens when the toilet fan is on and all the coach windows and vents closed. It has nowhere to suck the air from than from the black tank when flushed or if the seal failed.

Hmm, wonder what they used to make it only last 4-5 years. Job security? I resealed ours, 6 sections, in 2016/17 and no fogging yet. Used the DK Hardware stuff.