Ivan K

At 65F, the pressure in the can should be about 80psi. Same for the low and high after it eventually stabilizes, which may take long time. When you start filling, the low gauge should jump way up from the 10 that you report, is it so? You could wiggle the can between vapor and liquid and see the pressure changing. If it stays at 10 while filling, there is a restriction in the schrader valve or gauge valve. I am actually surprised that the compressor does not kick out at that pressure, it should. Your high side needs an other 25 psi to be at the lower end of range for 65F, so you are slowly getting there. I have never filled a system that has air in it, so no practical experience in that case.

At your starting pressures of 25/0, the system was empty. What you put in is a small fraction of what should be there. The compressor isn't necessarily bad just needs way more Freon and at 10 psi on low side it should really be sucking it in. Don't worry about the unequal stationary pressures, they take time to stabilize with a tight valve.

With zero pressure, chances are good that you already have air in the system as it breathes with temperature changes. You said there is a dye in it, maybe you can find the leak before wasting 4lbs of freon that will just leak out again. Anyway you decide, I stop filling when high pressure is correct at the compressor with our long lines.

My cheap metal detector finds rebar in concrete floor. Not what I have it for but finding a center of a truss may be a challenge. But if there was a specific spacing from a known truss, it might do.

Yes, mine are in parallel and either one would trigger the brake lights on OUR model coach.

The pancake type switches in your picture are low pressure brake switches, normally open on our rig, the cylinder type are cruise cancel, normally closed.

If you are saying that even the plug is missing, then I would look for an expansion plug of appropriate diameter. If you are going to copy someone's dipstick, make sure the tube is the same lenght with same tranny model. https://www.amazon.com/Stant-10150-1-1-Universal-Oil/dp/B003BHG9CM/ref=asc_df_B003BHG9CM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693555726153&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5658539845749160242&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026894&hvtargid=pla-761835515912&psc=1&mcid=ed58a2794b2b386eb297fe076f0113db&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxeyxBhC7ARIsAC7dS39b86Ra70P1UB7sMxX_ITg6dCuqFeSUzNymB83JGF9OtkQjlj51Rp8aAkryEALw_wcB

I have a dipstick and never used it to actually check level, so no, you don't need it. Mine only has marks for cold level range to show that it is safe to start after drain and refill but if correct amount of fluid is replaced, no need for it.

With my Xantrex I know the remote reads up to 0.2v lower when inverting so my AGS is set at 11.8V. Even then, the voltage has to stay below threshold for 30s, to ignore momentary drops, so I have some time to run an extra heavier load before the starting sequence even begins.

AC insulation tape, Prestite tape, used on exposed line and valves. Available on Amazon amongst others.

Yes, blowing out the blind holes is always good idea, I did not have to chase the threads since there wasn't any rust and bolts came out nicely but I used a bit of high temp antiseize in case I have to ever do it again. The couple of longer studs (cut of heads of long 10mm bolts) made positioning the gaskets and manifold easy.

Would this one work? From description: cut out dimensions are in the description 13 3/4” x 21 1/2” that is your inside dimensions...

That's a good idea, I have a fan there too and plenty of fishing stuff. Have a pic of the attachment?

When I found a leak, I tried to torque the bolts to prescribed 35lbs and they easily turned a quarter of the turn. Of course that did not help so out they went without any problems. Trying to soak the threads was futile, pretty much non of the penetrant made it past the spacers unless the bolts were already backed off a little. And if the manifold needs to be backed out to replace one gasket, pretty good chance that the others get torn up doing it. It helps big time to temporarily replace a couple of bolts with studs so the manifold slides out and into its place easily. Not a bad job, just heavy with the turbo and deep in the hole, nothing like access on a truck.

Still don't know what system you have but with my HWH two ram system, both cylinders are t-ed and share the same valves through synchronizing cylinder on one side. No adjustment there, the only time I had it happening was with a leak and then air in the plumbing. Missing fluid would indicate a leak if that was the case. If air, there are bleeding procedures, somewhat messy. Don't know if you might have a mechanical issue effecting only one direction, I have adjustment nuts on ram pistons but they could not explain 6" difference) however air in extend line would be suspect in my case. Holding the button past retract stop might purge it, maybe.

You seem to be looking for this box. Pretty good size, maybe 10"x6" or so. Mine was behind the center console, with probably 10+lbs of rolled up cables attached to it. All the speaker connections were in one large connector.

Interesting idea but I doubt it could be wiggled out without loosening all the manifold bolts. Once you have enough space to rotate it a bit, it should come out. It is a machined fit, will depend on the rust but mine was pretty clean in that area. But then again, once you get the bolts loose and slide the manifold away far enough to just replace the gasket, that would be the way to do it. It is an approved method and #6 is the easiest to clean the old gasket remnants. Don't drop them in the holes.

The cap will be half or less of your test pressure unless stuck and you would be likely having other leaks at that point

Heater core pressure should not exceed the engine radiator cap rating. You would likely know it it was coolant leaking. Leaky evaporator would be nasty oily. Condensation is a nature of beast.

Has every one of them had to top it off? Is the front side also behind the same when retracting? And what type of hydraulic system is it, assuming it has a synchronizing cylinder?

You should have an other 12v fuse in an interior fuse box. Mine is 2A in a bedroom cabinet fuse box. Good luck, hopefully that easy.

Good for you, Richard. These are the same 'Bendix drain valves' as on ours, except for the location. Don't know what they were smoking when they say to drain daily while installing them directly on the tank...

Do you have to go under to drain the tanks or are they positioned remotely or are you looking for some with the pull line. One day, when I also need to replace, I would consider the remote drain of some kind which I don't have right now, so I'll be watching for recommendations too.

I haven't done it myself yet but you can try this:

Are checking for that power at the coil or at the controller connector?