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Jason Do you have HWH air leveling? If so, then the air pathway thru the ride height valve is controlled by the Travel solenoid valve on the HWH six pack. It sounds like you may have a stuck Travel mode valve, or an electrically failed Travel mode solenoid. I carry a spare HWH solenoid just for this situation. All the solenoids on the six pack are the same, so having a spare will work in any position. Richard

John Yes! I have had the 40250 cover off and torqued all the connections. No change. I did manually hold the contactor closed and that did stop the chatter, so I am relatively sure the contactor is going bad. Either that or there is a problem with my 8K generator providing power, but the generator continues to run with no error codes set. I also hate to throw parts at a problem unless I am fairly sure I have determined were the problem lies. Thanks for your input. Richard

John My generator contactor starts chattering and drops connection with any load above about 15 amps. The generator continues to run with no load as the ATS goes through its timed delay process and then reconnects to generator power. This process just repeats itself as long as the load is present. It will support the battery charger (12 to 13 amp load), but not the microwave or an air conditioner. Does all that make sense? Richard

John It is the generator side contactor that has failed on mine. Are the two contactors (shore and generator) in the 40250 the same? If so, I can order the single contactor you found on Amazon and replace the failed generator one on mine (or just order two and replace them both). Thanks for your assistance. Richard

Richard Here is the quote from Hydronic Heating Warehouse: Operation of "Diesel" light inside coach is different than the older boxes. On heating systems with an electronic board the switch light illuminates when burner is operation.

I have that issue when I have not used the washer/dryer for a while and the P-trap in the drain becomes empty allowing the gray tank to vent back into the coach. I simply add a quart of water to the washer and run the drain cycle to replenish the water in the P-trap.

Jeff You did not specify the age of your Splendide unit. I had an older unit that exhibited those issues. In frustration I took the cabinet apart and found a set of shocks and springs that supported and inhibited movement during spinning. The shocks were totally worn out allowing the drum to bounce around and hit the insides of the cabinet. I attempted to find replacement parts to no avail. They were simply not available on that old model unit. I fabricated rubber bumpers to minimize the movement and continued to use the unit until I eventually sold that motorhome. Good luck in finding a resolution. Richard

The covers with the holes are intended for the heat-pump models with reversing switches. Without those holes for just AC.

While you are doing comparisons, look at size 265/75R22.5. They will be slightly larger in diameter then the 275/70s you have now, but not enough to matter. The slightly narrower width will be insignificant. Toyo makes the M154 in that size and it is very popular for a motorhome tire. Richard

Matt As Beaver made the transition to Monaco ownership, they standardized with 295 mm tires on most everything. However, your vintage coach may not have room for the 295s. The 295s will be almost an inch wider and about 2 inches taller. You would need to carefully verify that you have the physical room for such a larger tire. Also, realize that you would have a significant speedometer discrepancy with the larger tires. Be careful and do much research before shelling out the money for a larger set of tires. Richard p.s. Verify the rim width on the current wheels to see if they will even accept the wider tires. If memory serves me correctly, the 295s require an 8.25 inch rim width.

Jim I don't think that is a bare copper wire. That looks like a thermostat. What looks like a bare wire is actually a capillary tube that is sensing the temperature from where ever the other end of the tube is installed. You can vary the temperature of on and off with that knob. Richard

A lot depends on how long you intend to keep the motorhome. I have done motorhomes with Henry's roll on products for a short term fix (it will last a few years). For a long term fix, I would also recommend the poly-urea spray on roofing (RV Armor, FlexArmor, etc...). Roll on roofing is cheap (a few hundred bucks), but with limited warranty. The spray on poly-urea is much more expensive (about $150 per linear foot), but often has a life time warranty. I had the front of my coach sprayed with a poly-urea bra color matched to my coach to combat the rock chip problem. I have been very happy with it. Richard

When my Southwire 40250 began to act up, I did extensive research to find a realistic replacement for the contactor. I could find nothing that would fit and accomplish the objective. Everyone else I could find that had gone through the process had eventually given up and replaced the entire unit. Sadly, replacing the entire unit will result in losing communication to the Alladin unit. I have asked in many forums about the possibility of gutting the 40250 and porting the communication components over to a newer version. All of those with far more electrical engineering experience then I have responded that it "might" be possible, but was not at all realistically practical. So, the bottom line is simple: Replacing the contactor in the 40250 is not realistic unless you have the superhuman fabrication and enginering skills to build your own surge protector ATS combination. There is a company with a listing online that will evidently build you a replacement for the contactor for $2000. But, I do not consider that realistic since a replacement with a newer version is about half that. If anyone comes up with a solution to this issue, I would like to hear it. Richard

Denny I could not find any information on the VMS 120 LC. Is that a version of the discontinued VMS PC? Richard

John The contactor for the 40250 has not been available for many years. AND, the 40250 was built before the industry standardized to the RVC protocol for communication. SO, when you replace the 40250 with a later version, you will lose the capability of communication with the Alladin system (assuming yours still works). The 40350 and later versions do have remote display capabilities, but they are not compatible with the Alladin. Sadly, coaches of our vintage are having their electronic components age out. I am currently in the process of replacing the Sony backup monitor and camera which have failed. The Sony system is like the Alladin system and the old Surge Guard 40250, they have not been manufactured for so many years that parts are no longer available. Your best bet is to bypass it in the short term until you can replace it with a later version. In my case, I pulled the wires from the 40250 and attached 50 amp plug-ins to the wire sets. (Female 50 amp plugs on the shore and generator wires and male 50 amp on the house side). That way, I had the capability to manually transfer from one to the other when I needed to. Good luck with your repairs and let the rest of us know how you come out so we will know what works well and what does not. Richard

The part # for the coil is RAP90568. HWH used to sell the coil seperate, but no longer seems willing to do so, even though the instructions for installing that part seperate is still on their web site. They only seem to want to sell the coil with a new valve so they can charge an extra $100 for it. If you find a generic coil that will fit, please let the rest of us know. Richard

The "T" handles on the sides of the six pack are to manually bypass the HWH system. If you open those "T" handles, you are manually bypassing the Travel mode solenoids and opening the air flow to the ride height valves. There purpose is to allow the vehicle to be raised to ride height and driven even if the HWH air leveling system is not functional. Richard

Dennis I have the same handles on the inside. A short one on the door frame beside the passenger seat and a longer one at an angle on the dash side coming up the steps. All of the chrome ends are the same with different length plex dowels in them (all are lighted). What do your interior handles look like? Richard

Years ago I had a coach with a CAT 3126 that exhibited a low oil pressure issue at idle after the engine had been run hard and was hot. My diesel mechanic BIL recommended switching to synthetic oil to get a better viscosity profile when the oil was hot. Years later I had an engine that exhibited a high oil pressure issue (over 100 psi) when the engine and oil were cold. BIL again recommended synthetic oil because it flows better at low temperatures. If you have either of these issues, then synthetic oil is probably worth the extra cost. Otherwise standard 15W40 is probably fine. Whichever you use, I strongly recommend you have the oil laboratory tested every year and keep the test results for future comparison. I use Blackstone Labs for testing and follow their recommendations as to when I should change the oil, or of it has adequate additives and is clean enough to run longer. Richard

Your handles must be different than mine. Mine are 1" plexiglass dowels inserted into chrome ends. See attached link. https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-0055300L-Lighted-Assist/dp/B003VAXT68/ref=psdc_15710341_t1_B08C321RW5

Dennis I don't know how yours are attached. On my '06 the interior handles were attached with large Philips head screws. All of them were loose and would not stay tight because the holes were wallowed out over time. I inserted a set of expansion metal inserts designed for this purpose and tightened up the old screws. Been good for the last 5 years. https://www.amazon.com/Stripped-Screw-Hold-Kit-pcs/dp/B001GH7G4Y/ref=sr_1_21?crid=196SYQB09GH9B&keywords=loose+screw+hole+repair&qid=1693938021&sprefix=loose+screw+%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-21 Richard

Paul I left my front hubs with wheel bearing grease for many years until it became time to service them. Since I had to service them anyway (a task that I do not enjoy), I chose to convert them to liquid filled. As long as I have no seal failures, I will never have to service them again. Richard

I have a Onan 8K generator on a slide. There is a sling around the cables and fuel line with a spring that holds them up and carries them as the generator is extended or retracted. I do not know if this is factory original or add by a PO, but it works very nicely. Richard

Paul You would NOT put these on the rear axle as the rear axle is already liquid oil lubricated from the differential. If your front wheel bearings (or tag axle) are lubricated with thick wheel bearing grease, converting to liquid oil lubrication is a maintenance convenience. The trucking companies are probably reverting to using wheel bearing grease because their drivers never check the oil level in the liquid filled hubs. Richard

As expected, the modified sine wave version is a few hundred dollars less expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Technology-81-2022-12-Inverter-Charger/dp/B004C5PDEC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3PC6WTOVFF59X&keywords=xantrex%2B2000w%2Binverter%2Fcharger&qid=1693591479&s=automotive&sprefix=xantrex%2B2000w%2Binverter%2Fcharger%2Cautomotive%2C125&sr=1-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.765d4786-5719-48b9-b588-eab9385652d5&th=1