windsorbill06

Finally got the project behind me. I've never liked reaching across the toilet room, bending down to turn on the lights. I wanted to get the switches closer to the doorway. My toilet room is quite small. There is just no room to move the switch unless you put in on the wall, but it's just too close to the sink for my comfort. Water splashing on the key pad was a big concern. Only way to get it closer to door was to put it up higher on wall, which is fine by me. Since Monaco put in wall blocking (similar to fire stops in stick built house), mainly to attach back splashes to wall, it took a little creativity to get the new wires to location I wanted Had to dismantle interior upper cabinet to install the new wire runs as I didn't want anything visible. Took about 8 hours over 3 days to get everything finished, but happy with results. Wish I took more pictures.

Tom, I believe your correct, but I've never heard it called the "mini". Makes sense, though. Mine controls only lights and the water pump. No shades, fans, slides or anything else. It gets power from the intellitec EMS. On my other thread, which I'll update, I did move the toilet room switches to another location. Same switches, same functions, just a different location. It was simple to extend the wires. While I was chatting with Paul, he said it would be 'easy' if I ever wanted to add another switch plate at some other location and program each individual switch. Just splice in the wires and run them to the new location, program a switch pad to the light of your choice. Boom! Done! Hard part is finding the switches/switch board itself. Maybe @pwhittle can comment on any 'mini CPU', these beast have, but I don't believe it's in my coach. There is really nothing for me to 'back up'. Paul did offer to re-program my individual switch plates, but as I mentioned earlier, not real high priority right now.

@Bill R Glad you got that pesky non-op switch working. I am fortunate, my multiplex has worked pretty well over the years. I did have to replace the main board once and I'm convinced that was caused by excessive heat in the back closet where those electronics are housed. @myrontruex (I think it was Myron) had a great solution to ventilate that area, but got his butt chewed on IRV2 at least once when he posted about it.. But I liked the idea. You and I could purchase a wrecked '06 and make good use of the parts off of it. I had a great phone chat with @pwhittle (Thank you Paul!) about multiplex system, then it moved into headlights, cameras, and I forget what all. It's good to know both he and Frank can program these systems, if needed. My OCD hasn't kicked in enough to send keypads to them to reprogram each button position to make it a little more consistent and sensible to me. But I'm tempted.

To get an accurate price, IMO, you need to have them quote it for you. Some coaches have center rollers. My rear PAX slide has 4 rollers, so I needed 4 guardian plates. Some slides only need 2. I installed myself and wasn't a really difficult project. Accurate measurements are important. They will walk you through it.

I just finished removing the lower carpeted piece in one of my cabinets. My problem was the bottom was installed before the side walls, so the side walls were sitting on top of the carpet. Both sides had to come out first. A stiff putty knife and patience. Everything was pin nailed down.

@pwhittle I'd be interested in learning about backing up my system as well. Tried a PM, but looks like your box is full again.

I hope you meant 'bowl'. Otherwise I'm not sure how you'd do that! lol

Tom, You were right on. The only difference is the pigtails. The red/yellow/black wired one is the main controls for this switch. The pigtail with the purple wire controls the momentary water pump switch in wet bay. Thanks for the help and insight. My son's new 5ver/toy box, is that way. Helped him with some non electrical issues. But I couldn't find the switches for interior lights just so I could see. Turns out, it's on the display touch pad on the wall or on his IPad.

thanks Ben. So you also have to reach across the room to turn on the lights when you walk in.. But yours are up higher. We've got to bend over to see the switches that are mounted in the lower cabinet (basically where your night light is). Like I said, perfect when your on the toilet, but that's it!

I'm struggling with the best location for the pad. That room is pretty small, I'd like to put it on the wall next to the sink, but I'm concerned about water splashing on it. Maybe up high? Anybody post some pictures of your switch location in that toilet room? I could put it on the wall, directly outside the door- in the hall. Not too convenient if you're using the toilet and forgot to turn on the water pump, however.

Ben, I believe it's short for 'cosmetic'. It controls the wall light fixture above the sink. Other bath sink has the same label. Tom, I do have the water pump switch in the wet bay. Momentary, ON/OFF. All the others are the multiplex style.

I didn't mention, I'm only talking about 2-3' of added wire.

Monaco installed these Multiplex switches in my toilet room cabinet. Just not the best place for convenience and wrong orientation. Problem is, my wires inside cabinet are too short to just move the switch to a better location. Can I just splice in longer wires, use new molex connector, or would this cause issues with the multiplex system? I know that the switches just send a signal back to the control box, but I don't know enough about the system to just jump in, thus the question.

Take that clear plastic piece down to a glass shop that does shower door enclosures. Any good shop will have several different profiles and you can match it up. I just did that on a shower in our house.

Lanny I saw your IRV2 post as well. OneExtreme, as mentioned above, is really good and not too far from you. I helped a friend take his coach and also helped him pick it up from that place, so I saw before and after. His final product (front and rear caps and minor touch up all around) was outstanding, but not cheap. It took forever to get an appointment, however. They had his coach a long time, 4 or 5 weeks, as I recall, so be sure you know that going in.

your right. I didn't convey that. I was trying to point out that the power goes towards the inverter, not the original CB panel.

Since my coach already had 50 amp running from the shore power cord to the transfer switch, that part was pretty easy. My ATS is right next to my inverter location. I think I used less than 3' of wire from ATS to victron. Then, I re-used the existing wire that Monaco ran from the ATS to the main circuit breaker panel in the back closet, just moved it from the ATS to the output of the Victron. The wire was long enough. There was other very considerable wiring needs to get everything working properly. It's quite involved and I'm happy to share with you what I did in more detail. I did the work by myself so not having a 'go-fer', increased the time considerably. Before I even started this, a victron dealer gave me a $12,500 quote with a 10% 'cushion' to do what I did and that did not include the Victron components. I have a little over 100 hours into this project, which included installation of the CerboGX and the display screen in the hallway.

John, I'm with Bill R and just create your own route. When Monaco wired these things, they weren't thinking about you and me pulling wire to upgrade. I did upgrade to the Victron Multiplus II about a year ago, as well, but I already had 50 amps coming in. Quite a job rewiring everything, but pretty cool technology now that it's done.

Here's something I came across on facebook. The guy had plumbed it into his coach with a snap disc to turn it off and on. IMO, way too expensive to just cool an inverter area, but an interesting concept. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TDXWC4Q/?coliid=IA9GN1W4F4IU7&colid=3KUASJ0BUDMPD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it_im

I’m in palm desert. No rain here.

So you got the 10 ga wire run, but you’re using the oem breaker? that OEM breaker is only rated for 15-20 amps. It was designed to protect the 12 ga wire.

Harry just did a write up specifically on how to do this. He'll come along and probably comment. Harry, I don't care what you say, you have ESP!

Ron, Are you planning on using the OEM switch or the new one that comes with the pump? Your original switch isn't rated at 30 amps.

Ron, thanks for that link. I think that is exactly what I had heard about. I'm just finishing up a pretty extensive inverter swap, lithium installation and all new solar project. Pulling new #10's for the sanicon should be quick and easy. (famous last words!) May even do #8's if I have that laying around.

I have read about some putting a nylon sleeve over the sanicon hose to help protect it from rubbing and eventually leaking. Anyone do this, does it work, and what source is the sleeve?