Dennis H

Cord Retainers Dennis

I, too, question the leaky window assessment. Especially if you've checked the window and it appears to be solid. You could have a small leak in the plumbing in the bathroom. This happens. Check first, your plumbing under the sink then go to the toilet. Unhook your coach from any water supply and turn on your water pump. Leave all faucets etc. off for at least 60 minutes and see if your pump runs. If it does, you most likely have a leak. I have a triangular cover piece in the corner of the bath that hides a lot of wires and some plumbing. Do the simple stuff first. If you don't want to wait around to see if the pump comes on, a small tape recorder/camera in the wet bay will give you your answer.....Dennis

It's a learning curve, Don. We've all been there. I learn new things every day and I've been doing this a loooong time....Dennis

Jaime, do a search. I saw one for sale recently from someone who wanted more space in their fiver. I'll try to locate it as well. I believe they were in the St. Louis area. If you replace yours, be sure to dismantle it first. Our temperature sensor failed and I had difficulty finding the replacement. As luck would have it we were staying at an RV resort in Hilton Head and while walking the dog, I discovered an old Spendide by the trash. Asking in the office, I got a "Oh that old thing need to go in the dumpster but we haven't had time to do that". I voluntered to help out. After taking all the wiring, circuit boards, knobs etc. off, I took everything apart and threw the metal drum etc in the dumpster. I still have most of the parts and my unit works again. I've helped out a couple of friends over the years too. Unfortunately, I do not have the door seal....Dennis

Mel, you're correct in that it starts off going straight up. As the ship rises it's trajectory moves and it travels upward and northward until it jettisons it's second stage and enters it's orbit. It is amazing to watch. I was also privileged to have had the honor of seeing the Space Shuttle LAND. That was awesome. Shuttle sonic boom and the Star Spangled Banner started playing. It finished about the same time the shuttle cruised to a stop. Lots of cheering and clapping........Dennis

Not trying to be snarky, but if EVERYTHING was in excellent condition, you wouldn't be having this problem. That said, your blinds have lost their tension. Look behind the valance and you'll see cords attached to a small disk on each side of the blind. Unscrew the disks, re wrap the cords with a little more tension and try it out. If they still fall or drop, add another wrap or two around the disks and try it until you have the tension that's suitable to you. Don't over-tighten or you'll lose the tension more quickly and have to do it all over again.....Dennis

Since everyone seems to prefer OptiLube over other brands etc. which OptiLube do you use since there's about 1000 different ones...thanks...Dennis On edit: It appears it's a toss up between the XL and the XPD. Is the Cetane Booster worth the extra cost? We don't do cold weather to the de-icer is a non issue. Thanks...D

Thanks for the info, Mel. Shows we're never too old to learn. I was not aware RidX had a product for RVs. Only one I was familiar with was the one we put in our septic tank growing up. That said, in researching RidX's site, they do not show the 'treatment' package, only a 'deodorizer'. Do you know if the product you show is still available??? A search revealed that product on Amazon but it says it's not available and doesn't know when/if it may become available again....RidX's site does not list it. I'm talking about the one on the left as the one on the right is for septic tanks once a month treatment. That one I'm familiar with and it's not recommended for RVs......Dennis

I would have to agree with you. As refineries continue to 'dumb down' fuels in the interest of 'clean air' and cheaper costs, those of us with older engines must adapt and respond to the "fruits of their labors". Biodiesel may help someone, somewhere, (I'm not a scientist nor an accountant) but it's a dirty fuel and needs us to help clean it so our engines perform as we expect them to....Dennis

Tom, I sincerely hope you throw that toothpick away when done and not use it. :) ....Dennis Many of these products, like RidX cannot work because the product is not in the tank long enough. Read the labels. Products like RidX are formulated for septic tanks and such, not holding tanks or portapotties. Most smells can be eliminated simply by being aware of what you put in your tank. Flush only human waste and toilet paper. Wipe off your plates with a paper towel before washing them in the sink. Use plenty of water to flush and wash. Don't use baby wipes and/or flushable wipes.....Dennis

Jetty Campground at Port Canaveral. Top of the line park but with a couple caveats. They WILL charge you daily for your dog AND you MUST provide shots and licensing information at check in. Wasn't an issue for us as we travel with all our dogs papers but be aware. Be sure to call to see if they are OPEN. I've provided a link below. We watched a launch from the campground. Check out the link below for photos. Be sure to scroll both forwards and backwards for all the pics.....Dennis https://executive45pbq.blogspot.com/2014/09/more-port-canaveral-florida.html https://www.portcanaveral.com/Recreation/Jetty-Park-Campground

While I subscribe to the philosophy "If it ain't broke, don't 'fix' it" in this case I might reconsider. The motor will cost you about $300 give or take. If it fails, that's about what the labor will cost to fix it. So the choice is yours. It's 16 yrs old and 85k miles...I'd probably replace it.....Dennis

I replaced mine with SS rivets. No more issues with the nylon ones breaking off. Make sure you use a washer behind the rivets.......Dennis

Kinda depends on where you fuel up. Water in diesel is never good. Cummins does not recommend using any additive. If you fuel up at Flying J, Loves, TA etc. you most likely won't have any fuel issues because of their large turnover of fuel and they have filters on every pump. That said, I pass on stations that are filling up their tanks from their transport trucks as the introduction of new fuel into those underground tanks stirs up a lot of sediment into the fuel you could be putting into your coach. I'm assuming you know how to drain the water from your fuel system. If not, please ask. This is something every diesel driver should know but is rarely covered. Also, if your coach is to be sitting for a bit, make sure your fuel tank is full to minimize condensation (water) build up inside the tank. I use 9.1.1. available at Wally World or any parts store, every fourth tank or so. Other than that, I don't use anything. Over 100,000 miles on my coach.....Denniis

http://rvservicereviews.com/StateList.asp?Submit=&sortby=location&state=FL&search=&CategoryID=&ZipCode=&Miles=&SearchState=&KeywordState= Dennis

Wise man, indeed.....Dennis

Water and more water. That's all I use in 11 years full timing. Never had a smell and tanks are clean. The SeeLevel system's sensors are mounted OUTSIDE the tanks so they aren't an issue. Some swear by Calgon dumping in the tank, but I've found water to be my friend. I don't empty the black until over 1/2 full and I leave the grey water open until the night before we're ready to leave, then I close it and use the dishwater from the night before and the hot shower water from that morning to flush out the black tank. YMMV...Dennis

Having rebuilt mine a couple times, here's what you see and why it won't work for you. Since you have the box out, take the pump out of the box. There is a small screw on the BACK of the pump which is used to free the blades if they're stuck. Simply insert a flat screwdriver in there and turn. That said, it's better to pull everything apart and clean it correctly. Remove the three screws in the front of the pump. CAREFULLY. pull the front of the pump off. There is a fiber gasket between the two halves. If you tear it, you'll either have to make a new one or buy the whole rebuild kit. The gasket is not available by itself. The kit consists of a new impeller and new gaskets. Also note the elongated hole as you'll need to reassemble it in the same position. Remove the front half, the fiber gasket and the metal ring. This allows you access to the impeller and the blades. Hold the blades in place and remove the screw that holds them on. Remove the blades and the center section. This allows you to replace the impeller. If it doesn't need to be replaced simply clean any hair and/or debris around the blades without removing them and reassemble making sure the elongated holes match up with the metal ring you removed. Place the fiber gasket in place and reinstall the three long screws. Reassemble the pump into the box and reinstall in the coach. Personally, if I were to go to all that trouble, I'd buy a kit and rebuild the thing while I had it out of the coach, but that's just me...Let me know if you have any questions....Dennis

Thumbs up! Glad the 'fix' was cheap too....Dennis

Hello all... Since Monaco, and many others, use plastic dash and arm rest bezels, they break eventually. On my coach, the D/S bezel houses the parking brake so when you push or pull to set it you have a tendency to use the finger and thumb to push/pull. There is nothing but open space below that switch so the plastic eventually breaks. Cheapest replacement I found was about $300, so here's what I did. I removed all the screws and raised the bezel. I then marked all the switch wires and removed the switches one at a time, removed the shifter box and the mirror adjustment. Next I removed the bezel. I should say I removed all five pieces! A trip to a local metals dealer netted me a piece of aluminum sheet stock of sufficient length and width to fit under my drawing. Cost- $3.84. I then carefully assembled the broken bezel onto the sheet stock. Once that was complete, it was a simply a matter of cutting out a template of the broken bezel. Check to ensure the switches will still fit the openings when complete. Finish the edges with fine sandpaper and you're ready for the next step. Using a good glue, (I used JB Weld) lather up the back side of the bezel and carefully place it onto the cut and sanded sheet stock. Let dry overnight. Reinstall the finished product in the coach. I now have a solid bezel that I don't ever have to worry about breaking. Total cost was $3.84 ! For those who don't possess the cutting skills or patience to do so, a machine shop or water cutting outfit can do it for you for about $75. There's several ways to cut the holes...I used a Dremel with a straight edge but you could also use a fine toothed saber saw. I worried about the thickness hindering the ears on the switches so I simply made the holes a little larger so the switches lock into the plastic. It was easier too...! I used a piece of aluminum, .075" thick. If you notice, I cut the openings square around the rectangular cutouts for the switches. This way the switches snap into the plastic bezel so the thickness of the aluminum does not come into play. What did make the biggest difference is how solid it made the rear portion that holds the E Brake. Also, remember the E Brake attaches to the underside of the bezel as there's nothing but empty space below it....Dennis

Ok. Kinda hard to trouble shoot without actually seeing your setup, but here goes. Your water tank fills either while hooked up to city water via knife valve or through the fill cup on the side of the coach. On the tube from the fill cup there is another hose that allows air into the tank so it's gravity filled. Similarly when you use the knife valve as the water tank fills the air it's displacing escapes through this small hose. First thing to check is ensure this small hose is clear. It also doubles as an overflow so an easy check is to overfill the fresh water tank and see where the extra water comes out. If it comes back out the fill tube then the overflow is blocked and needs to be cleaned. Assuming that is successful, your next check should be your one way valves. You have one at the city water fill and another should be built into the pump itself although some coaches have an inline just before the pump. Check to see which you have. Now you said you've checked the pump. I'm making zero assumptions here. Hook the pump up to a good 12VDC supply and attach a hose to the receiver end with the other end in a bucket. Turn it on and see if it pumps. You could have a bad check valve inside that pump even though it might be new. Finally, if all that works, reinstall the pump, turn it on, then open each faucet for about 30 seconds. This should prime the pump and purge any air out of the system. If none of this works, you'll have to check your system to see if there's another in line check valve somewhere in the system. If you have a winterizer system, you might find one there.....Dennis

Take a look at your entry doorjamb and door. There should be two brass prongs that are supposed to make contact. They are about 1/4" square. They get dirty. Clean them gently with a emery board and then try it....Dennis

I replaced the solenoid to the step cover. It's found on the firewall in the generator compartment, accessible either from above, through that compartment, or from below. I accessed it through the genset. I was shocked, absolutely shocked, at how fast the coach fell when I disconnected that 1/4" line. I expected the air to expel slowly and the coach to gradually sink but it didn't...BAM! it was down. I'm glad I wasn't underneath. In the past, I've rewired a coach front to rear while propped up on levelers. Now I know better. Please, everyone, spread the word. Jack stands or some other blocking method. Do not be complacent or lazy. It's just not worth it. Imagine that poor wife who had to discover her husband....Prayers......Dennis

Be very careful using compressed air. Too high a pressure and you may find water everywhere....I'm thinking a dauber nest perhaps in the overflow or a 'forgotten' / accidental shut off valve........Dennis

Perhaps I should have clarified my post. Duncan has replaced my windshield before and they did a good job then. My opinion is they prefer windshields and find side glass to be an irritant. Again that's just my opinion based on my last experience with them. Each company has their niche. I am sooo ready to be back on the road.....Dennis