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Dennis H

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Everything posted by Dennis H

  1. My wife has AT&T and I have Verizon. That way we are pretty much assured of coverage wherever we are. We've found Verizon has a little better coverage nationwide than ATT. I bought the AT&T Mobley when it first was offered and still use it today. It's worked flawlessly without and throttling. If we can't get service from ATT I use my phone as a hotspot and it works well too. I would think the Jet Pak would work just as well as the phone if not better. The antenna inside should be more robust than that inside the phone....Dennis
  2. The FCC made a change in 1999 and again in 2004 which split the country. It used to be you could get WC, EC or BOTH. In 1999 the networks sued for copyright protection and after all was said and done, Congress wrote a law which allows for a West Coast feed OR an East Coast feed but not both. It's supposed to be tied to your home address but obviously this is difficult for full timers. You must file a DNS verification with them to get the service. It costs $15/mo. The DNS doc states you can't receive signals from anywhere else. Google SHVERA for more info....At least this is how it was explained to me.......Dennis
  3. Spray bottle with soap. If you can't find soap available, Dolllar Tree has bottles of kids bubbles. Works better than reg soap too. The rear of your coach has many many air lines and it could be a leak from any one of them. In the middle, in front of the rear axle you can see a manifold with many air lines attached. aA word of CAUTION, do not go climbing/sliding around under your coach unless it's properly blocked. Especially with a known leak. Be safe....Dennis
  4. For those newbies and maybe even for seasoned campers, I thought I'd share an item I've found to be valuable for very little cost. A short back story: Back a few years ago we had a 40' Tourmaster which had a wet bar. I considered removing the carpet and install tile and had picked up a couple samples. I stored them behind the faucet for the wet bar. I used to build street rods and we were headed to a Goodguys Show in San Diego from NorCal. We left after work on a Friday with the intention of driving all the way. During the trip south, my wife got up to go use the bathroom while I drove. We continued south into Orange County. My wife got up to get me a sandwich and stepped into a very very wet carpet! She had left the water pump switch on and the tiles had jiggled just enough to turn the wet bar faucet ON. With the drain closed the water filled up the sink and overflowed onto the floor. UGH! Pulled into a shopping center in Laguna Hills and spent the next two hours mopping and cleaning up the huge mess. After some research, I purchased the below item at our local Home Depot...($11). Cheap insurance IMO. It would also protect you if the grey water filled up and flooded from the shower....Dennis
  5. We've used the On the Go for the past 6 years and wouldn't have a coach without it. Doesn't take much to keep it in shape. About every 2-3 weeks, depending on your usage, simply open it up, pour in a box of Morton and flush it out. You're good for another 2-3 weeks. I usually flush it for about 10-15 minutes or until there is no salty taste to the water. Showers are left clean and I use the coach water to wash the car and the coach witch leaves it spotless, IMO, they are worth the $$$....Dennis Additional info: Ours is outside. I have a pressure regulator on the spigot, Hose from regulator to whole house filter. Hose from filter to the water softener and then into the coach.
  6. Dennis H

    Tires

    Mel, I'm aware of that from experience. I also know from experience that Michelin's warranty isn't very good. To warranty the tire, they must contact Michelin FIRST, get their approval, which might take several days and then THEY must send the tire back to Michelin. Sam's Club doesn't get involved with mfg warranty stuff as they carry their OWN warranty, at an additional cost of course. Been there, done that. I got zip from Sam's and/or Michelin. I still like and run Michelin's on my coach but I disregard their warranty and take my chances that one is not going to fail, and if it does just buy another....Dennis
  7. Dennis H

    Tires

    Mel, while I shop at Sam's Club often there are a couple of reasons why I won't buy certain things from them. It pays to shop around and tailor your needs to what everyone has to offer. My issue with Sams is they can/will order the tires for you but they will not install them. They also will not warranty the tires as they didn't install them. This may present an issue for some, or not, depending on one's preference. I also don't want to pick up eight of these monsters to take them to another tire shop for installation. Convenience is worth something in my playbook. I checked out Series 31 batteries for my coach too. Sams was $4 cheaper per battery than Batteries Plus for the same product. However, Sams offers a 12 mo warranty and B+ offers an 18 mo warranty. I elected to go with the better warranty. These are simply my opinions and everyone's may differ. Our goal is to inform and be informed. Ultimately, the decision is ours and what's best suited for our individual needs....Stay healthy.....Dennis
  8. I have three fuse locations, one in the compartment under the driver's seat, (front run box) one in the engine compartment, passenger side (rear run box) and another in the bedroom closet, passenger side front, above the washer and dryer.. Open front run box and look at the INSIDE of the compartment door. Monaco puts the fuse locations on a sticker there....Dennis
  9. Dennis H

    Tires

    Dave, in answer to your post. Yes, IMHO, joining FMCA is well worth for the savings on tires. They discount Michelin, Hankook and Continentals. I've had Connies and found the ride harsh so I went back to Michelins and I'm very satisfied with them. Below is their current price on Michelins. Hope this helps in your decision.....Dennis
  10. The "new and improved" SeeLevel system will allow your to use bluetooth to see your tank levels. Supposedly will be around $350.,,,Dennis
  11. Originally Monaco positioned the compressor just in front of the REAR axle. Imagine sleeping when your rig decides to relevel!!! I like the idea above the LP tank. I wonder what it would coast to have a smaller LP tank installed and free up all that space underneath to say nothing of the weight reduction.???. How did you block the coach while your neighbor was underneath?? Since mine is back by the rear axle I'm thinking I'd have to run a line all the way back there to tap into it. I can run stuff but I've seen how fast one of these drops when it loses air. I don't want to be that guy under it when/if it does...Another question is how quiet is the new compressor and it's location???....thanks for the pictures...Dennis
  12. Ditto --- what Sandy Swede said....first "adjustment" come after about 30 minutes, then it adjusts as needed before settling down. My slides go out before leveling though as per Monaco instructions....Dennis
  13. Maybe they should cancel the 2020 election too. Just sayin.
  14. Hello everyone. I wasn't sure exactly where this should go, so I put it in general discussion. Admin can relocate it if necessary. I like the Aladdin system for some things and not others. Certain aspects of mine have never worked correctly and some seem to have a mind of their own. My intention is to keep the Aladdin system. I don't want to switch to the Silverleaf just yet as the Aladdin does what I expect of it even with it's faults. What I want to do is add the SeeLevel system for the holding tanks. With that said, I'm trying to determine just how difficult this will be before shelling out $200 for the system. I've watched the youtube videos and it seems a pretty easy install. However, all the literature and videos "assume" you already have a readout (head unit) that you simply switch out. My coach doesn't have one of those so I'd be starting fresh. I have an 05 Executive and my questions are as follows: 1. I'm trying to find out which wires go to the holding tanks and where they're located. I've taken off the covers in the wet bay but there's no obvious wires in there. There are several round gizmos with what appears to be telephone wires coming out of them but I'd have to be a contortionist to get to them. See pic below. Does anyone know which wires go to the sensors? Colors or photos would be ideal. 2. Once I've determined which wire I can use underneath, I'd like to install the head in the overhead compartment above the driver. This seems to be the easiest and simplest area to run the wires. I'm hoping to be able to find an existing wire from the sensors which runs up front to the Aladdin system. From there it will be an easy wire pull to the overhead compartment. Again, I don't know which wire to tap into on the Aladdin and I would prefer not to start yanking wires off that box without knowing which one is which. 3. I also am looking to tap into the LP wiring for the same reasons as above. This is not absolutely necessary as we only use LP for the stove top, everything else is electric so we use very little LP. I think I filled it up about 3 years ago. If anyone has messed with the sensors on their holding tanks and can offer assistance with wire coding and /or location, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...Dennis
  15. Since no one has really answered your question, I'll try to help as much as I can. When I'm traveling and have an "issue", I do several things. First I check RV Service Reviews, link below, then I'll ask at a campground. If it's not an emergency, I'll wait until I'm at a larger city although many local shops in the smaller towns may be ok. We've been full timing for 12 years now and put over 100,000 miles behind us. Obviously, yearly check ups for your rig is imperative as is following the mfgs recommended intervals for changing fluids filters and the like. Click on the link below and search for a facility near wherever you are. I like to look for a facility I feel is good and see what their reviews are. Usually toss out the low and the high then decide for yourself. For an issue like you described, I'd probably post on here or one of the other forums as someone might just have had a similar issue and can offer suggestions. If you go to the facility armed with some knowledge, you're less likely to be taken advantage of. Best of luck....Dennis http://rvservicereviews.com/
  16. Sorry, but I disagree. Tyron make big claims for their product, but despite many requests they have not produced the technical evidence to support their advertising claims. IMO, having good tires, inflated properly and maintaining reasonable speeds will prevent many of these blowouts. Sure, blowouts do happen, even I've had them but knowledge is important. Knowing what to do in the event of a blowout might just save you and/or your coach someday. Also your mental state while behind the wheel will go a long way to keeping you, your loved ones and all those sharing the road with you safe. Don't text and drive. Don't drive while arguing. Keep your speed reasonable and drive defensively. My coach weighs in at almost 25 tons. That's a lot of weight to stop in the event of any emergency, not just a blowout. If one occurs, the best course of action is to keep your foot on the throttle until the initial shock subsides, keep your wheels forward and then begin to slow the vehicle until you can pull to safety. Most of Tyron's claims don't show the types of blowouts that cause wrecks such as these. Don't you think insurance companies would offer discounts for you to have these installed if their claims were forthright? The answer, of course is yes, yet they don't. Anyone can make claims, think diets, but backing them up is a horse of a different color. I've found no evidence to satisfy me there's sufficient technical evidence that support those claims. I spend my money on things other than snake oil and diets. What to do in a case of a blowout? Education is free and Google is your friend. Travel safe, my friends......Dennis BTW, that motor home that went sideways into the center divider that was mentioned....well, he was PASSING a semi who was traveling 65mph at the time of the accident. These tires are speed rated at 75mph, and I'm sure he was close to that. It's too bad a lot of these 'investigations' aren't made public so the real cause(s) are known...D
  17. I've only seen one motorhome pulling a travel trailer and it turned out to be a guy moving the trailer for a relative. Cargo trailers are a different story. Lots of people pull cargo trailers for a myriad of reasons depending on what's inside. Snowbirds traveling from New York to Orlando may pull a cargo trailer with motorcycles inside. Often they take their golf car and/or motorcycles. Racers pull trailers with their race cars inside. I used to build street rods and towed whatever one I was showing to the venue in a trailer. Like anything else, it's all in the planning. I had a hidden hitch on my cars so I'd unload the trailer and use the car to stow the trailer in the lot. Remember, a lot of these folks are not travelers. They are going from point A to point B and can use whatever facilities are available to them, such as WalMart, Home Depot etc. Those that aren't simply plan ahead. I have to be more particular about where I plan to stay with my 45' bus than I did when I had my 24' PaceArrow. Calling ahead to campgrounds to inquire about space limitations, not only for the camping spot but also the interior roads leading to them. Many campgrounds will have a spot for you to leave the trailer should the need arise, i.e. no pull thrus available, but there may be an additional charge for that privilege. Plan ahead, call and ask, don't trust your GPS, and have a plan should everything go in the toilet.....Dennis
  18. Probably should have mentioned though---it IS a GREAT bargaining tool when talking to the salesperson. 🙂 ....Dennis
  19. If one of your batteries is shorted/shorting out that will give you the error. Sam's Club has the best prices on 6VDC but Batteries Plus comes in a close second. Also BP provides a better warranty on some of their batteries. I'd change out the batteries and see if your 'issue' goes away before I'd start playing with anything else. Bad batteries cause weird things.....let us know what you've done.... Sorry, an edit. I reread where you're currently in a campground. Try disconnecting your bad battery bank and reset the inverter. If it tests ok, then it's caused by the defective battery(s).......Dennis
  20. Same appearance but different issues. Graphics, (stick on) will, over time, lose their adhesion and often will show cracking. That's in the product itself. Paint checking, as pointed out, Thermal Checking, is in fact caused by a fiberglass defect but to go into detail about how and why is not worth the band width, nor do most people care about the why. There is no easy fix. IMO, live with it. You're really the only one who will notice it and only while washing your coach. Mine showed it shortly after we bought it and I'm the only who's really had an issue with it. Think of it this way, esp if you've been shopping for coaches; how often have you noticed it? If you weren't shopping for a coach would you even be aware of it? Driving through a campground, have you seen it? Probably not....Dennis Neil, yes, it's only in the dark colors.
  21. Neil.... First, it's not product specific. It's found across many different mfgs. Two, the cause is of some discussion. Many feel it's because of the 'change' required in the paint itself, others think it's the fiberglass. Remember when they changed to water based paint? Since it seems to only affect 04-06 coaches, my guess is it's in the quality of the paint available during those years. According to what I've read, repainting will not fix the problem unless you remove everything and start over. Google "RV Paint Checking". You'll have enough reading for days......Dennis
  22. Many RV scrap yards will have your replacement. A picture of your part might also help. ...Dennis
  23. Gary, I would suspect that is your issue. Pretty common. Easy check tho. Use a tester and ground it to the coach. You should have juice to one of the terminals. Have someone press the boost switch and you should have power to both terminals. ...Dennis
  24. Have you checked SeeLevel? Their complete unit cost $199 with new sensors etc. The sensors attach OUTSIDE the tanks and are superior to the Aladdin INSIDE sensors for accuracy. The SeeLevel system also monitors battery and LP in addition to your black, grey and fresh water. If you're happy with the Aladdin system they have an attachment available for about $100 more that merges theirs with the Aladdin. Best of luck... yeah, I had the same 'issue' with Visone. I think they must be lonely....Dennis
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