PeterSchweizer

Call Freightliner!. So back in October 2021 I needed the exhaust Manifold and bolts for my 2004 5.9, 300 HP Cummins. after my turbo blew and cracked the header. Cummins by far was NO help at all. Waste of time! They told me they did not know when they would get one in and it could be a year out ( The old COVIDI / supply issue excuse). A mechanic in Cortez Colorado told me to contact Freightliner in Farmington NM. Well, it turned out that Freightliner had in stock, just on the west coast, 8 in stock and would ship out right away Tucson had 3 California has 2 and another state had at least 2 IN STOCK which BTY they purchase from Cummins! AND t was the same cost as Cummins quoted it would be. Good hunting

Most cars Nav systems do not update without a cost or dealer visit which is also a cost. Just use your google maps, Waze etc. or other big name app that updates and gives upto date/ Real Time trafic n road conditions. Also somthing like a Garman with lifetimen updates and live trafic update capabilities will be less expencive then up dating your cars NAV system overer a 3 year period Its in the palm of your hand and if driving hopefully in the holder on your dash. For most phone plans, its included in your phones monthly cost. Why use out dated information?

ALL Its not just the tach thats an issue its also the speedometer - 2 seperate items and 2 seperate information feeds to the gauges. However what is common to both is the ground circuit or harness/connector issue

Possably a bad ground on the back of gauges. Monaco daisey chained the grounds from one gauge to the next to the next... then to a ground. Open dash/instrument panel and check for loose connections at each gauge follow the ground wires. ( I think its a white wire?) you can also ADD a new ground wire to each to a new good ground to eliminate it being the issue. NOTE: best if you turn off both chassis and coach main battery disconnects when fiddeling around behind the instument panel. Dont ask me how I know ask otheres how they learned as i always turn orr or disconnect power.

What / where is the rear big boy compartment ? BTW a 2008 42 ft coach is no where close to a 2001 in almost every system n layout

Need to replace my turbo due to a bearing failure. I seen turbos for my engine from $3500 new from Cummins down to rebuits on line around $700-2000 What brands of new turbo are good? Is a rebuilt turbo a good way to go? and which brands? Cost to replace - based on how many man hours? Thank you in advance for your responces

Shell Rotella T4 10W-30 Engine oil for Diesels

I am not sure if when you turn on ignition switch if it actually does a "systems check"?. Typically it was a way to check that the indicators light bulb did in fact turn on n was not burned out.

Is So. California they have termites that swam/fly.

Thanks for letting the world know where you and others may stash spare keys

Wal Mart. But you may have to modify the connection. There are several options use original piviot mount n place a bolt thru the side of wiper

Glacier is smokey. We left there this am after 6 days of smokey views. Now In Coeur d Alene some s.oke.here to.

I should take a mechanically minded person about 2 hrs to drain n remove the rear Radiator with 1 additional person to lift it out. The charge cooler 1/2 hr more if you also want it out to clean n change hoses n clean engine. After the Radiator is out you will have access to the waterpump. Replace all hoses, even the numerous small ones around the engine, belts, belt tensioner, thermostat. Dont be in a rush n most of all try n have FUN, knowing you eliminated lots of possible issues down the road. Also consider having the Alternator rebuilt n fan replaced with the one from Source Engineering while you have access.

Mine will do that too if I go from R to D. Nut if I go to N first it does not. Try that it's an RV dont rush!

Slide a hose over each end n use hose clamps if you dont want to weld it

Glad you tackled the job n rebuilt or replaced things when you had the access. You made it worry free and should get another 100,000 miles. Plus the thousands you saved in labor parts markup and stuck somewhere costs. Well done! Carry on! Job well done

Thanks Jeff

Thanks jeff but have some clarification needed_-Per Cummins parts the FS stand for Fuel waster Separator so what you are running then is 2 fuel water separator filters. Are these the # from your owners manual or something that you changed? My book says both should be 10 microns but the PN FS19596 is rated at 7 microns per Cummins parts not the 5 microns you stated nor the 10 my Monaco owners manual says is this correct?

Fuel filters for ISB 300 04 Monaco Cayman I am looking to replace both my primary and secondary/water separator filters with the correct ones but seem to be getting confusing info from the coaches manuals. Cummins says only one filter installed on their engine per S/N. there should be only 1 filter Fleetguard FS 19896 water separator and its a 7 micron filter Monaco owners manual says: Secondary is as above a Fleetguard FS19869 Primary is Fleetguard 53201P but Cummins says no such animal??? tried 2 different Cummins locations but got the same answer Monaco manual states that both the Primary and the secondary/water separator filters are 10 microns So the question is -What should the primary spin on filter be for my 04 Monaco Cayman w Cummins ISB 300 R4R Roadmaster chassis What's on there now is NAPA : Primary 3405 which is a 10 micron Secondary/water separator 3604 and 8 micron but per Monaco should also be a 10 micron. what should they be? __________________ 2004 Monaco Cayman 34PDD 300 HP Cummins , Allison 2000 MH 5 speed pulling 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk

In my 04 Cayman 34 pdd w/cummins 300 HP I accessed the belt , compressor n adjuster rod from closet engine hatch. Remove the closet slider doors put cushion over track. Take 2 Aleive , chill n it will be done. Lots more work removing Rad draining antifreeze removing charge cooler, trans cooler. PS reservoir adds about 6-8 hrs to the job. If you choose door 2 and take it all apart then change hoses, Rad n charge cooler, thermostat. Serpentine belt, tensioner etc all hoses on engine about 8 others big n small on mine.

My 04 cayman has a large one that covers from Radiator fwd to end of oil pan and is about 3 ft + wide. Lit has 4 easily accessible nuts on studs that are welded onto the coaches frame. Like yours it takes only a few minutes to remove. No shop has ever charged me extra to remove it. Down side is it protects the fuel filters too so it's not easy to drain fuel/water separator, but can be done without removing cage.

You might try some heat on the fittings. When I replaced my Radiator I had to disconnect the Cooler hoses. It was difficult. used PB blaster penetration oil but not much help. Just brut strength not much area to work or a good angle to get the wrench on the lines B nut. Had to walk away several times and retackle it and it finally broke loose. Good luck!!

For me I prefer an independent tood brake system from my coach. So when there is a bar and saftey cable failure the emergency switch is activated using the toods brakes. I use the Roadmaster invisabrake which has an independent compressor n cylinder that pulls a cable on the toods brake peddle. There are other portable power packs that do the same by pushing on the peddle and they are portable so can be used on another vehicle. The invisabrake is activated by sencing an independent 12 vdc signals from each of the left n right brake lights wiring and progressively activates the toods brakes, so it not just an immediate standing on the brake peddle. I do not agree that the emergency disconnect cable should be shorter than safety cable because its intent is to stop the tood after complete separation from tow vehicle. Just think going down the road pulling with your 400 HP Diesel the tood brakes activate you might not sence it n omly know when a passing vehicle is blowing their horn n pointing so you end up with 4 blown tires n shaved off rims maybe ever the rotors too! Remember the stories about someone leaving the toods parking brake on driving some distance before realizing the burned up 4 tires n rims. Now I was lucky I caught that someone left it park after hookup in the first few feet of driving away- as others here have. However we all have seen the photos n stories of others. Also if emergency cable n safety cable are intact after tow bar failure and the tail light wire harness is longer (n not tied to tow bar) you may still be able to tap coaches brakes, n slow down tood safley to a stop if you have systems mentioned above.

Please Include some photos of issue