Twomed

Cuz Eddie's question on air "full air" He meant was the air syatem fully charged, jacks if you have them UP, HHW in travel mode and at ride height ready to go BEFORE pulling in the slide. If you are in a spot that is not real level and pull in slides the situation you had could occur. Often you get away without being a full air and ride height BUT sometimes it does not work... may even cause damage.

Just another opinion here. Having lived in Florida most of 70 years and owning/maintaining fibregalass boats it amazes me that folks try to constantly re-invent the wheel on this issue. A. there is no permanent solution under constant sunlight unless you have NASA dollars. B. Our coaches came with unpainted roofs so when the gelcoat..that very thin gloss coat first applied in a mold wears off you WILL have chalking. C. All coatings you apply will have a terminal life based on prep aand product. D. Marine coatings, time tested, will last longer than wax, miracle fluids, coatings made for mobile homes, etc. E. All boils down to how often you wish to do it over a again yourself or pay for hopefully a good job. I just re-painted mine with Rustoleum Topside after seven years ( maybe could have gone one more) all outside life with first topside paint. Day one prep and dry. Day 2 Tape and brush cut in and roll. Day 3 second coat roll. Day 4 pull tape. Done for seven more yaers...TOO old by then so someone else will be doing it. Just like mileage your expericence/choices will be different.

25 cu ft Whirlpool side by side...special order in 2006 when M would still build that way...also Sig paint scheme, dash, wheel. Those were the days...spin the wheel discount rallies...🥰

Painted over with brushable black Flexseal (Lowes) no leaks now. ☺️. I have used FS a bunch...it works. They probably hurt themselves with all the hokey ads.

https://www.tiresdirect.net/catalog/category/view/s/commercial-tires/id/23/?cat=163 Big Chicago distributor...shipped to local shop, 3 months old. Easy deal. 🙂

Google "replacement air brake ping tank" and find the one you want. Might also try "replacement air suspension ping tank". Lots out there, just a matter of finding the correct config. Look a the the top of your tank too, might get lucky and find a part number. Good Luck...

Fabbed my brackets too. 3M 5200 and pop rivet in each leg. Over 10 years still tight. Fiberglass roof but had same concern on wires...used a stop on the bit, no problems.

I just replaced the pigtail with the one above about a month ago. It was still intermittent. I rmoved the controller box and when looking at the board with a magnifying glass discovered that the pins on the board that handle the J2 were not solid due to overheating. Touched them up with a soldering iron...viola! All is well. Had a call from the kids...we had done the same pigtail mod on their Dynasty and his SW is dead, expect I will be soldering his when we meet up in a week or so. Currently in NC...new intake manifold, new colant hoses and pipe, new rear end gears. $$$$

The big (200pg) schematic books should have pics of those labels...the 2006 books do. Maybe ther is one in the downloads section.

All In The Family...you are my prophet Dick 🙂 I'm meeting up with them in Destin in a couple of weeks for our summer western adventure so the problem is solved for now...

Thank you will try them Monday.

Just did one on a friends 2003 Safari Panther on the RR10S chassis and the cylinders came out the pass side...no trimming of anything. A four slide config may not allow this, but check it out. Also very important that you synch the new cylinder(s) before operating, or the slide will come in crooked and jam. HWH online manual has the procedure.

Good to hear... replacing mine next week along with all the rusty pipes. I got 304 stainless tubing...no more rust. 🙂

Well you see what it is, you get the kids to buy the same coach you have so that when theirs breaks they just call and say whatever it is, and then you look on yours and tell them what to do to get going. Told him I have a 1/4 cap in my toolbox why doesn't he have one? Fortunately there is enough slack in the line to do a cut off so had him pinch it with vise grips and they are on the way for now. Still need to know from a Monaco owner if that piece is a screw off fitting. Thanks, Chuck

Here you go... the PTC (Push To Connect) locking ring has disappeared in the maze. I just need to know if the remaining brass coupling is a screw on or an integral part of some obsolete Monaco part. This is on the back of the dash panel at the top where all your check light scome on at start up. 2006 DYNASTY

Trying to help kids who are far away this morning... The airline blew off the pressure transducer behind the dash and the ptc fitting is lost somewhere in the giant wire maze. Still has over 100psi in system so they are headed to a stopping point. Has anyone replaced that piece on the transducer?? It looks like on mine that it is a female metal screw on with a ptc end. Not sure I want to unscrew mine to find out on 15 year old plastic piece as we are supposed to move in a couple of days. Thanks Chuck

Google linear actuator replacement motor. Or just linear acuator. Lots to choose from. The wierd drive gear may be your limiting factor. Replacing the whole thing may be necessary. A shorter stroke that still allows access for oil check/changes maybe in your future, mine goes out much farther than really necessary. God Luck

https://www.daycoproducts.com/parts?category_id=1136&year=2004&make=98&modeltype=26&model=3252&description=12939 They have changed it...IF you go to online catalog>Heavy Duty> fill in your requests info it will give you a list like above. Fingers crossed 😀

https://www.daycoproducts.com/parts?category_id=1084 Try your VIN number here...it worked for mine a couple of years ago...gave me all the hose numbers.

First a BIG THANKS to Paul Maddox aka azpete. A lady friend had a hyd cylinder fail on the big slide 2004 RR10S chassis. Failed and jammed at an angle with access only to the outside end of the failed cylinder. Lucky in that it was possibe to R and R the cyinder...then what? Without being synched in or out would only jam further...argh! Bad wx coming and I was able to push the slide in with the blankets over the spare tire of the Hummer and gentle end...end switching pushing. Trick learned on another friend's failed electrc motor slide Tiffen. Now how to synch with slide in?? NOT published any where. A text and call from the guru Paul solved the problem. Procedure follows: Loosen inboard mounting nuts to only a few threads. The cylinder needs room to fully extend. Just crack the IN pressure lines on both cylinders, then bleed air with the pump until no air (2 persons)....Not as much spurt as you might expect, but will need a bucket and rags. Tighten, hold pump IN for ten seconds. Repeat on the other cylinder. Repeat on other cylinder. Bleed the out lines with fittngs a little looser so slide doesn't try to extend same procedure except the ten second will be after carefully extending the slide. Operate slide fully in/out for four full cycles with the required four second pump ON at end of each movement. Slide will be properly synched and ready for your next Monaco adventure. Keep fluid tank full before starting the job and fill to correct level when done. Plenty of info on how to get slides in manually ZERO on what to if stuck in. Don't hang out with friends with busted coaches. Or maybe plead ignorance. 😄

I too grabbed pages for our Dynasty. They are specific to 2006 Dynasty model year but some will certainly cross. Happy to share on a new clean flash drive. This is over 100 pages, with pictures and part descriptions, and as Jim mentioned lots of vendor part numbers that are sometimes relatively easy to search for AND FIND currently.

I block mine same as Jim but use 4x4 1/4 inch steel square tube. 11" long fits just fine when you air up extra height, place blocks, air down just until contact, block wheels, shake it real good. One on each side never a problem. Bonus... the 4x4 stacks next to fuel tank on the pass side so they are always with you. Gave up the flip flops and wearing Crocs for comfort. 😁 Love the site since leaving Yahoo... New Years Resolution, No writes on the RV.net, only Monaco on Irv2, and then concentrate here.

Country farm odor goes away after a few thousand miles, washes, rain runs. Smells like $avings to me. Just a side note I remember at one of the Orlando Rallys back in the heyday around 2004 or so some of the show coaches were sporting 315's. As the snowflake heritage proves consistently this may or may not have ever become a production item.

Those are the ones I bought...the tire height 40.1 and load capability is what was looking for...80s were not available at the time, and the 75s are closer to 11r size which would be easy to find on the road if necessary. Just a choice. I replaced 12r's that I was running and they were a little to tall, they would be on the frame in some leveling situations.

For whatever it's worth my Aladdin shows 7.1 mpg over 140K. The 315 even on the 8.25 carries plenty on the 14,600 axle. COMFORT...no pounding on crappy roads is more important than mpg. I do check my tite temps on walk arounds and the fronts run within 5 degrees of outside duals and tags consistently.