Tom Wallis

When I first got my rig it had the roof bubble with the obsolete sat dish inside and all that wiring that you're referring to. I removed the dish and all of the wiring which went through a hole in the roof right on the seam underneath the dish. I then sealed the hole and because it's on the seam you can't even tell where it was. If your dish was already removed, you may have a similar situation.

The picture that he provided has no helpful information in it. I don't believe I've ever seen a slip yoke "blow out". If it had a lot of wear there would be some side to side play that you could feel by pushing up and down on the slip joint with drive shaft under no load. If there is some play usually the worst problem it will cause is some out of balance on the drive line but it has to be pretty bad for that. I would be surprised if it's that worn. You may or may not need u-joints which isn't a big deal but we can't tell that from the picture either.

I replaced my toppers a couple of months ago. They are different than yours so I don't know if this would work for you. One end of the topper has the load of the spring on it and the other end is free. On the drivers side I disconnect the free end and was then able to slide out the topper. A screw driver in one of the holes will lock the tube while you're doing it. On the passenger side the unloaded end was facing them awning so I wasn't able go that way. The other end was loaded with spring tension and I didn't want to release it. Solution: Notch one of the end plate holes. Now all I have to do to change the topper is remove the 2 screws in the cover, unroll the tube and lock and slide the topper out. Oh, I did brake a couple of screws on the driver side before I got smart.

I broke one of my puck lights and couldn't find the parts anywhere. So I just replaced it with this light from Amazon. Also, I kept hitting my head on the light fixture over the table so I replace it with the same. It's a better light, flush mount and covered the holes that the other lights were installed in. https://www.amazon.com/Dream-Lighting-Interior-Ceiling-300lumen/dp/B00ODVEWPG/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=Dream%2Blighting%2BRV%2BInterior%2BLED%2BLight&qid=1686933883&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Myron is right about the grid heater. They can draw 200 amps while the engine warms up. Sorry I didn't factor that in. However, after the engine is warm an with no other chargers on your charging votage should be higher than 13.6.

I've never heard of Poppy's Patina but here is a much less expensive alternative. Flood Penetrol, you can check out the YouTube videos.

If the voltage measured on the chassis battery posts is 13.6v with the charger on then I'd say they're charging okay. Next I would disconnect the charger for a few hours or for about 5 to 10 minutes with the headlights on, that will eliminate the surface charge so you get an accurate reading. Now check at the posts again. Anything much below 12.5v and your chassis battery is weak and that could lead to the low reading after you crank the engine. However, the alternator should bring it up to at least 14v quickly, like less than a minute. If not you may need to test the alternator.

The speed varies greatly depending on several things but primarily on the amount of traffic on the satelites your using. I've ad speeds as low as 5mps and as high as 250mps, I would say typical is between 30 and 100.

That is an availability map. It represents the areas where you can or can't order residential service. I'm not sure if it is the same for RV service. Also, there are some work-a-rounds if you're in an area where it isn't available yet. I'm not the expert on that but there's tons of info on YouTube.

So far we've only used it in several western states but my understanding is that it should work everywhere.

I've had many of the options mentioned above over the years and all were helpful at the time. In the beginning we use a WiFi repeater with an external antenna in order to leverage the campground Wifi but campground WiFi never was very good and still isn't. Next was a cellular hotspot. Then I added a Weboost cellular signal booster with an antenna on the TV antenna mast. Then came the Nighthawk M1 router. For many years we had Verizon and for a while we even had one of their Network Extenders at home because the signal was so poor. Finally about 5 or 6 years ago I got so tired of being gouged by them that we switched to T-Moble and ever since we've had 2 unlimited lines for $60 per month on their senior plan. And now we have Starlink and at least for me it makes all that other stuff irrelevant. We've had Starlink for over a year and so far we've only had one location where I couldn't get a signal and we've stayed in the woods a number of times. Both of our phones have WiFi calling so they are fully function using only the Starlink WiFi. Whenever we stop it only takes a couple of minutes to put the dish on my ladder mounted flag pole and we have unlimited cell service, high speed internet and video streaming just about anywhere. When trees are a problem I use the 50' cord and the stand to find a spot with good enough reception. Yes it is slower in some locations but it never gotten slow enough that it's not usable. I've also found that there's no need to run wire into the motorhome. If you put the whole setup in the basement you'll have a great signal anywhere inside. Here's a picture of my setup.

That's an option but it's usually less work to do it on the engine and it doesn't require evacuation and recharging.

I would agree with Ray. It sounds like you just neet a compressor clutch. They sell breakers that will replace a fuse and sometimes we someone keeps blowing a fuse they will replace it with one of those breakers. I bet they were having trouble with the clutch before you bought it. A compressor clutch isn't that big of a deal to replace if you can get at it easily.

My motorhome came with one wrong wheel on it. It was an inside dual and I never noticed it until I tried to rotate my tires. The wheel was too wide and it put the tire very close to the frame although it didn't touch anything. I had a difficult time determining what the proper wheel should be but I finally located one and everything fits properly now. Is it possible someone replaced the rear wheels with the wrong size?

Good job. Mine had the rear trac bar when I bought it and I added the front trac bar and the Safety T Plus also/

My manual says to slide first and then level. There have been a couple of times when I had a clearance problem because I did it the opposite way.

I would say that a poor connection in the wire nut caused the wires to overheat due to high resistance. And 12 ohms sounds just about right for the element. After replacing any faulty or damaged wire and connections and testing as you suggested I would not be afraid to use it.

One of the best things I've found for the streaks on the RV glass or paint is LA's Totally Awesome cleaner. I get it at the dollar store. I actually prefer the Awesome Oxygen Orange cleaner but either one is good for the streaks and all kinds of cleaning. I think the main ingredient is ammonia. I get those streaks on my side windows but I didn't realize they came from the Dicor but I think you may be right.

The link seems to be missing. Never mind, I found it.

I've worked in tire stores several times in my career and changed lots of tires of all sizes with all sorts of equipment including the bar in the above photo. I'm 71 now and I can still do it if I have to but for the most part I'd rather take the MH over to Les Schwabs and have some 20 something guy get dirty doing it. The only hard part then is trying not to supervise. I do everything else myself but usually not tires. However, I did have to do one of my tractor tires the other day. I discovered that my jack hammer with a shovel bit works pretty good for breaking the bead if you don't have a tire hammer.

I would say that a box wrench would be the right tool. If it seems like there's not enough room for your box wrench to slide up on the back side have a close look at your box wrench. They're not all created equal. It might be possible to get a box wrench with a thin wall that will fit where yours won't.

Mine had the satellite receiver and some other TV equipment in that same compartment.

I think there might be some confusion on Starlink coverage. There are parts of the country that have a wait list for ordering Starlink service due to being saturated with subscribers. However, if you have a Starlink system with portability I believe it will work anywhere in the US albeit with slower speeds in the more densely populated areas.

We don't even have a TV in the MH. Unfortunately we are kind of hooked on the internet though. Starlink has worked well for us almost everywhere we been. Occasionally we will stream something on the laptop but do pretty well without TV when we're away from home.

I was just about to say the same thing. That way you have the high speed internet and you just add whatever streaming services you prefer. I prefer to stream everything on demand but if you prefer live TV there are a number of services that can provide that as well. Also, I understand that Starlink will soon have a mobile dish that will be legal for in motion use.