tmw188

If your going to disconnect the shore pwr I would turn of the breaker instead of unplugging. I’m not saying it’s related to your question but just best practices.

No pics, we all like pics!

NP Scotty take care of the important things surrounding your life.

Who put that receptacle in. Maybe it’s not being measured correctly.

Got it Roy, good thing too. I didn’t know of this procedure either using your finger or something else. Thanks

I can’t visualize your solution, I guess you don’t have any pics of it while using?

I added some text to my above post. Joe until you can look at it I would leave it unplugged. Open your basement door and see if you can smell anything.

Do you have this type of transfer switch, if so unplug the coach from shore power until you can open it up to look inside for loose wires and maybe burnt wiring. If you find burnt wiring leave it unplugged. Do a search on the forum for more info.

You will get a lot of condensation on your inside windows and windshield especially. You will need to wipe them down and run your dashboard fans on the windshield occasionally to help evaporate it some. Small good quality htr in the wet bay.

Alan please check back with the p/n and where you purchased when you verify the valve is correct.

I too have the Trace with the same setup in the coach. I had a Freedom 458 in my other motorhome however.

So what was burnt there. Could you identify it with a pointer or something to show what it is in pic 1 or 2 on the component side.

You can look up and call PCS Electronics in Columbia MO if you need answers fast and from one source. I believe they have some videos on YouTube also. Good luck keep the post updated for us.

Thanks Mike for that info with pictures.

Maybe some Tyvek type material.

Interesting, good to know. Mine will max out at 10 flushes if I hold it switch in on manual, so I guess it has a newer board. So based on what you described there is some lubrication that should be done?

I still have that Aria II it worries me at times waiting for it to fail. I suppose there are no real warning signs of that. I looks like that repair is easy enough to do on the rd if I carry a replacement part? I haven’t looked up the cost of that flush kit but maybe is pricey enough to just replace the toilet itself.

That’s correct Scotty I kinda forgot.

You might call down to Josams Truck and Frame in Orlando and talk to Barry about this. Look them up on their website so you feel confident with his opinion. He’s a busy guy but very nice. Tell him the someone on the Monocoers referred them.

Thank you Dave and wish the same back to you and yours!

Get out your multi meter check for power at the switch. I would have done that before getting a new switch. Doing that check is a very basic test.

To clarify the statement about twist. I’m not sure after saying that if it is clear from my recollect. I remember that I had an area on the track that seemed to be missing the spacer and it had been bolted down and it pulled down slightly on the roller track.

I’m a retired sheet metal worker & fabricator. I don’t think you need to go with SS. I would consider 26 or no heavier than 24ga galv. Spray the outside with under coating once you know it fits the way you want it. Go to any HVAC shop see if they will make it. I would maybe go with a Pittsburg Lock seam to make it almost water tight except in the corners that the undercoating would seal. DO NOT try to measure to close. Allow for growth tell the shop what you’re trying to make. I would knock off at least3/8” both ways. Good luck.

One other thing to look for after removing the tray and checking the things mentioned above is if the bolts that hold it down are not bolted thru the provided holes and are bolted off center of the tracks closer to the edge it can cause the track to twist and cause issues too. Checking and correcting all these things should give you the results you want unless there are bad rollers or such.

I have one in my Windsor, did some come with them? Richard, Jim??