Nevada Rob

I did some damage to one of my compartment doors. I was going to get the paint codes for the shop. They did not want them. As Chuck said in a previous reply, the body did an exact color match based on the current color condition. These guys were good. they matched the three different colors perfect and clear coated the doors on both sides of the damaged door.

Gary I did not turn on the ATC at that time. I play with it later and the light on the dash with ATC activated is a steady light. What I am talking about is a series of 10 flashes that are very quick or blinking. The owners manual does talk about the ATC switch and how to use it. Trouble shooting problems based on info in the owners manual is another matter. This forum has more great info in one day that the owners manual have.

I changed both fuel filters when I first picked up the coach. This Dynasty sat in one spot for at least 1 1/2 years, maybe two. It had a half tank of fuel when I picked it up. Since the fuel filter change I have run about 150 gallons through it. I did add fuel treatment for water and fuel mold grow. Maybe a clinker worked itself down the line. Now that the fuel filter has been mentioned, I think it comes when under load as in going up hill???🤨

Our first trip out with this new to us coach went fairly well. One concern is the ATC indicator light would start flashing a series of rapid flashes. Then stop for a while then do it again. It seems to flash more as the day got hotter. It was a balmy 114 degrees in Mesquite NV. Anyone else experience this issue?

I have a 10K generator that is about to drive me nuts. It starts and runs great for about 15 minutes. At the 15 minute mark it starts to stall/stumble and blowing puffs of black smoke. This is obviously causing the A/C units issues and every other electrical thing in the coach to loose proper voltage. I remove all the load from the generator and it still does the same thing. I shut it off and restart about 10 seconds later and the stupid thing will run prefect for hours going down the road with all three A/C's, refer, battery charger, the whole enchilada. Next day we have the same issues with the stalling/stumbling. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter (3 times), checked all electrical connection to make sure they are tight and secure. No fuel line leaks between the fuel tank and the possessed by evil spirits generator. I am reluctant to take it to the local Cummins shops due to fact that they wanted $600 to just do filter & fluid change. I have read about some people replacing the control board.

I attached my shop compressor to the front air inlet fitting so as not to run the engine for an air supply. It is already 9,000 degrees here at home so anything I can do to keep the undercarriage cooler the better. I drive the coach up on wood ramps I made in order to raise up the front or back of the coach in order to get my old broke down butt under the motorhome and have some room to work. With a fully charged air system spray a generous amount of soap/water solution on all the fitting and valves. I use Dawn dish soap and water. Once I found the problem areas I drained the air system. If the leaking fitting was part of the air leveling system then when you remove the air line the bag will drop. With the coach up on the wood ramps I can still get under the coach even with the bags completely deflated. Removed the old dried out quick connect fittings, clean the female receiving threads and install the new brass fittings. I had two leaks on two pressure regulators on the front primary tank. The regulator body threaded together in two pieces. The upper and lower halves just need to be tighten back together. I do not use Teflon tape. I only use pipe thread paste. Teflon tape is nice and some folks use it. I have never had thread paste leak whereas I have had to redo Teflon. I only want to do this once so the extra effort and time is well worth for me. I just ordered a really cool tool to get the old push connect fitting off/released from the tubing. The tool is not cheap but after smashing my hand into the air tank, worth it to me. You can search for a quick connect fitting release tool. I found a set on Amazon for about $140.

I spent 3 days chasing down air leaks. We found and fixed 16 air leaks. Not one leak was the actual air bags. Most leaks were from fittings on the primary and secondary air tanks. Now our air leveling system works as it should. We do not have hydraulic levelers only air levelers. The coach remained level for 4 days without the auxiliary air compressor coming on once. Air leaks are common but they are not "normal". It is a bit of work but well worth the time to get the air system in top shape. We replaced every leaking quick connect fitting with solid brass compression. Well worth the time and effort.

A clean radiator is a great place to start especially with a rear pusher fan system. Every bit of road crud gets picked up and blown into the fan and then stuck in the cooling fins. I use WaterWetter along with coolant and it helps. Yesterday coming home it was 113 degrees. 2008 Dynasty with ISL 425 pulling a 22 ft enclosed trailer. 4% grade with a 15 mph head wind. Engine temp runs up to 214 degrees then back down to just above 195. From info in to original post, I don't think the problem is a major deal. A little play time with a garden hose on a hot summer day sounds like a good time. https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80204-Water-Wetter/dp/B000CPI5ZK

What coach did you put them on? I need to replace mine but give me a chance to check correct part number/fit. Thanks, Robert

I just did mine last weekend. Took about an 1.5 hrs. I put in the Preston pre-clean solution and drove it around for a while. I have the ISL but I would image they are close to the same. I replaced the thermostat while we had it drained. Drained the system from the lower radiator hose, filled back through the overflow tank. it took 10 gallons of pre-mix. Cummins shop stated it does not matter which antifreeze (yellow or red) as long as it is all the same. Do not mix the two types. I am glad I did mine as I found the overflow tank splitting and leaking just a little. It would only have gotten worse. The plastic tank is no longer available so a replacement tank is steel at $400, ouch. Pretty easy job, you got this, no problem.

I believe the idea is that if the unit looses power during the time when the burner is firing, the cooling fan will stop as well causing a concentrated heat spike. The more I think about it, I am going check voltage at the control board with the disconnect switch off. It may be hard wired from the batteries for this very reason??AHE-600-D01_AHE-675-D01_Service_Manual_Rev_A.pdf Section 5 page 45AHE-600-D01_AHE-675-D01_Service_Manual_Rev_A.pdf

According to the AquaHot 600D manual, a second battery should be installed to keep constant 12VDC should the coach disconnect be activated during the diesel burner process. I do not see any secondary back-up battery.

Wow I had no idea the the Interstate highway system separated the the average drug dealer and crime organization. This forum is great as I learn something new every day.

Amphi_sc I agree that a re-routing is needed. The ASCO valve should be in line before the point where the pump discharge line connects to the water system. a check valve between the two would make more sense. Currently when the auto-fill valve is open the water pump activates due to pressure drop and just circulates water from the tank right back to the tank. I may end up rebuilding the entire incoming water set up and relocating a few valves to make them more accessible. Thank you for your input on the plumbing. There is an Aladdin in the cabinet above the entry door. It does not light up so I am not sure if it is on or off. Either way the Aladdin monitoring system screen on the dash works no matter what I do with the switch. Are the two tied together?

I am not real sure where the Aladdin on/off switch is???🤨

Kevin I am not sure why the switch is a 3 position switch?? Maybe they were out of 2 position switches the day my coach was being built? Do you have a rocker switch in the small cabinet above the entry door that reads Aladdin on it? If yes does that switch turn on/off the whole system? I just bought this coach a month ago and have been learning about all the different systems.

I have a 2008 Monaco Dynasty. According to the manual the auto-fill in the up position fills the tank and the shuts off at about 98% full. And then place the switch in the down position for city water. I assuming Monaco means using City water supply and pressure for your interior water appliances. On my coach the switch in the up or down position fills the tank. With the switch in the center position closes the electric valve and supplies water to the faucets. With the way the coach is plumbed there is no way that switch and valve would work since the valve is a open or closed valve only and not directional. Anyone else have the same set up or is mine not plumbed correct?

I just installed the Remco ARV 5.3 GPM pump in my coach. It is very quite. If you are very still inside the coach you can hear it, otherwise you don't even know it is on. They are not cheap but according to the RV repair shop here in town they are better built and are returned less often.

There is an app for your phone or IPad or Tablet called "Wind Finder". It shows great current and forecasted winds with excellent graphics. I too plan for fuel stops to some degree but I think maybe the strong head/cross winds eliminated any savings by going that way.

We had a problem with on 5th wheel just like this, getting shocked. Turns out the electric heating element in the water heater failed and was touching the tank. The unit was attached to the coach with screws that made contact with the frame. A direct short to ground of poor quality but enough to get a buzz when entering the coach. Once in the coach no problem. But one foot on the step and one foot on the ground and you could feel it. Replaced the heating coil and no problems. May be something to look at????

I have an 08 Dynasty as well. The compressor did come on once with system off. My compressor runs very little and sometimes the coach stays level and sometimes it will sag to the drivers side and the compressor never comes on. I recently purchased the coach about a month ago and have been working on the “hole in the pavement to money into” just about every day. I did find three air leaks. Fixed two and the third one is from the primary tank at the rear above the tag axle. If I get that one fixed I think the auxiliary air compressor should not run much at all. I will test it with the system off and let you know if the compressor comes on with the system off.

Thank you Frank. Have a great day!

What info do you have?

Anyone happen to have the ride height measurement for a 2008 Road Master 10 bag chassis? I am not sure if the measurement is from the inside or outside of the air bag plates.

Chuck when I said 22-24 degree exchange temp I meant overall ambient interior air compared to outside. The temp at the air duct vent is a good indicator of how well your A/C units are operating but does not mean you can make the overall air space inside that temp. With that said everything in your coach is working against that cold air. The sun on the roof, heat through the windows and even body heat from people. As Karl stated, try to keep everything inside the coach cool to start with. I have opened my coach up here on hot days with it parked under the cover and the interior temp is 110 to 115 degrees. Everything inside is that temp. The cabinets, walls, floor, even the toilet all radiating heat. It takes a few hours of running all three A/C's to get it down to about 80 degrees. If you are only able to drop about 12 degrees as asked in your original post, then maybe a good A/C guy might be needed.