Nevada Rob

Mine does not really surge as much as it stalls. My first thought is contaminated fuel in the tank. This coach sat for almost 2 years with half a tank of fuel and never moved. I have run one tank of fuel through it and now have BioCleaner and water cleaning/ treatment additives in the tank. I will see if this does help. I have become really good at changing the fuel filter on the generator. Only takes me about 10 minutes now. Practice make perfect I guess.

I am not sure what you would line it with? Common plastic sheet may react with the diesel. I would use very strong degreaser, wash them out, let dry a few days then put you fuel in them. Just a thought.

Paul A great link. Thanks.

Follow the links below to find your manual on the 2006 Signature and service options. You will find that beginning on page 127 of the manual you will find everything you need to know about the AquaHot system is listed there. If you have lights out they may be burnt out and need replacement. A fuel filter and burner replacement is a great place to start. https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/manuals/2006_Signature.pdf https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084Q5PLDK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details http://www.aquahot.com/Products/RV/Annual-Service-Kits.aspx

I have read in more than one place that the best way to figure out the correct pressure on the tag axle for your coach is to weigh your rig fully loaded. Get each axle weight then divide the weight of each individual axle by the number of tires on said axle. Front axle by 2, drive axle by 4, tag by 2. Then try to do your best to balance the weight as even as possible with adding or subtracting pressure in the tag axle. Be sure to not overload the rated capacity of each axle. Since no two people carry the same amount of gear nor load the coach in the same way your rig will need to be set up for your circumstances. I pull a 26 ft. enclosed trailer with about 850 lbs. tongue weight. So my set up would be heavier in the rear than someone pulling a flat towed vehicle. As far as getting your tab bags inflated, does it come up when you engage to tag lift for tight turns as an example? The air system is really not that complicated. Electric powered solenoids open and close a simple valves for each axle and side. I would recommend building some wood ramps from 2x8's or 2x10's stacked 4 high and long enough to get the drive and tag axle on the ramps. Put on some old clothes, gloves and safety glasses. Take a few bottle of soapy water (Dawn dish soap) a few rolls of heavy paper towels and start spraying and cleaning. You can trace your air lines, find air leaks and learn by putting your hands on these somewhat complicated machines.

Same here. Driver side next to the hydraulic filter. runs around 45-50 pounds.

Do you have air leveling or hyd leveling? How do you adjust the air in the tag axle to balance the gross weight load?

Forgive my ignorance but does this FASS pump mount near the fuel tank? Does it replace a factory fuel pump on the engine or supplement the fuel deliver from the tank? Any pictures you can share?

Do you have a panel in the bay where the Aquahot is located. Mine has a panel there with lights that will show system ok with green lights, red lights for problems. Have you replaced the fuel filter and burner tip for the AquaHot?

Van that is cool as heck. Nice job on the fabrication work. How long is the power cord? After the cord is deployed can you completely close the generator slide?

When you say no inflating properly, what does that mean exactly? They don't inflate at all? Do they inflate some? Do you have a pressure gauge in the engine compartment?

Why did you put in the FASS pump? Supplemental to the factory system or replacement to factory system?

I would have to fall on the side of keeping the power cord set up. My cord winds into a steel drum located in the center of the coach between the AquaHot on the right and the service bay panel on the left. If the reel system failed I am not sure how you would even get it out. Maybe piece by piece? I would say the the cord reel winds the power cord into a smaller cubic space than if it was loose and coiled by me. This is exactly why I LOVE AMERICA. We all can have an opinion and ideas, agree to disagree and respect other views and thoughts.

I feel your pain. We purchased a 2008 Dynasty with 10 bags. It would drop all the air from the left side in about an hour. I made ramps from 2x10's to drive up on. Spray bottle full of water and Dawn dish soap. Heavy on the soap so any little leaks will show up. Be patient. Over the next 3 days we found 16 air leaks. They were all very small leaks and did not make a sound, Not one bag was leaking. All the leaks were from the cheap quick connect fitting, regulators, and connection/threads on the air tanks. I would recommend buying numerous brass DOT approved compression fittings or various configurations. Tee's, elbows, couplings. I have air leveling, no jacks so air leaks are a problem. Good luck and keep looking. you will get it handled.

Ok. I have the GasBuddy app and use it for fuel in my truck or car. Apparently you can link an account to GasBuddy like Mud flap app and get a discount off of the current price. We get gas at Sam's all the time. I may need to look into their card.

With GasBuddy did you get a card that is linked to your checking account??

So what is this TDS/EFS card you speak of??

I-40 is a disaster from Barstow CA where it begins on the west end all the way to at least Nashville TN. We finally got off that POS in Nashville headed up to Lake Cumberland. KY. Both east and west lanes are in bad shape. We made the trip with a 2019 Jayco Seneca Super C. That coach had to be the roughest riding motorhome on the planet. The road was so rough and that coach bounced so hard, we bent the boat trailer tongue on the way home from KY. One of my better decisions ( a rare thing) was selling that Jayco and buying an older Monaco Dynasty. As far as I-40 is concerned, I would drive 500 miles out of my way to avoid that road.

Don't hold your breath waiting on Monaco to return any email. I have sent them 3 emails over the last 5 weeks on various questions. No response of any type. Customer service has been pretty much eliminated by most large corporations. Not all but most large companies don't want the older products on the road.

Great and well written explanation. Thank you for the update and sharing the info.

Let me start out by saying that I am not a professional licensed electrician, but a played on on TV once. I do have a degree from You Tube University on electrical stuff. From the original post it sound like it is possible that two 110 volt lines were sent down a plug that is only to have one 110 volt line. A 30amp RV plug has 1 - 110 Volt leg, 1 common leg, one ground leg. If the original outlet had 4 wires, (red, black, are hot, white common and green ground) and when switched to a 30 amp plug configuration with the red and black used then the common leg was energized. Since most RV's are not a bonded ground system then the direct short to ground would not occur. To the best of my knowledge there are no 220 volt/30amp 3 post RV plug. I do have 220 volt / 20 amp 3 post outlets in my shop that run machines. These are completely different types of plug/outlet. I may be way off base but this sounded really good in my head. I wish the best for your coach and search on getting it squared away.

I drive my 08 Dynasty up on 4 ea. 2x8"s stacked into a ramp. I have 4 ramps so when working on the rear area of the coach, all tires are supported. No possibility of any type of failure. I can drop all the air from the tanks and bags and still be able to get under the coach with no problem.

I would start by mounting the display board right side up. HAHAHAHA, just a little morning humor. Good question to ask as I have wondered the same thing. Is the Aladdin charging all the time when the sun is up?

Chargerman, do you have one height control valve in the front that controls both sides and two valves in the rear that control either side? I need to adjust mine as I believe I have 9"s in the front and 8"s in the rear. I have one valve in the front so I am not real sure why you have different numbers on the bags in the front. I don't think increasing the rear will effect the front much at all. Based on the geometry and mathematics a slight change over such a long distance on fulcrum points will be tough to notice. I think the biggest thing to consider is the engine/trans to driveshaft and driveshaft to differential angle. U-joints, input shafts and pinion gears all get worked a little hard if those angles are not as they should be. I am in the same boat as you with regards to what is the acceptable tolerances. Is 9" +/- 1/4" within range or is the the 9" a hard number with no +/- acceptable?? My biggest challenge is going to be finding a level spot to work on it.

Engine torque gets a vehicle moving, engine horsepower keeps it moving. That is why the power torque band is low on the rpm scale. Low rpm torque gets the coach moving. Once up to speed the HP is what keeps the coach at speed. Since the majority of HP band is in the 1750 to 2100 rpm range it is best to keep that range of RPM when climbing hills. Take control of your vehicle and do not depend on the trans or ECM or any other device to drive your coach. There is no substitute for human input and control. At least not yet. Climbing a grade is only half the battle. Whatever goes up must come down. As a general rule, use the same gear you climbed the hill in to descend the hill. Not always the case but a good place to start as it is better to upshift on a down grade than trying to slow down.