Jdw12345

Thank you!

A link to the bulbs would be nice.

Brendenson Fluid Power, Andrea in Waukegan IL, (847) 689-1570 Don’t know if she is still there but a super gal to work with, I attempted to get it from Brendenson in Tulsa I believe and since I’m in Minnesota they suggested I contact the outlet assigned to my location, they respect territory, my wife is a commissioned sales rep so I actually appreciated that!

The u joints in my 87’ Peterbilt went over 650’xxx miles, all I did was grease every 5000 miles, I replaced them with preventative maintenance in mind, these u joints should last the life of the coach, I’m my opinion.

So of the three different systems that you have owned, which system do you prefer? Also, last winter in Az we lost the 120v side of our AH, the high limit sensor, I believe was original, timed out, here’s a picture or two, the contacts become loose over time, heat up and seem to fail, fwiw. I have the 100-4.

If you intend to keep your coach for years to come, I would consider removing the shift and taking it to a reputable drive line shop and have it checked for balance and to make sure it’s running true, and the “slip joint” is also referred as a “stub and slip joint” just in case someone throws that out at you. If you choose to replace the u joints I would recommend “Spicer” u joints only. It’s not likely that the stub and slip are bad “if” it’s been greased much at all, if you’ve been taking it to the same shop for regular maintenance and it’s bad then it’s probably not been greased and you might want to consider a new maintenance facility, jmo. A side note, I’ve watched a tech true up a drive shaft, it’s a pretty interesting process to watch!

In the maintenance records from the previous owner, the magnets have been replaced a couple of times, I purchased a set of spares and added them to my “spare parts bucket”. Just an idea. Thank you the links Tom!

When I replaced my controller, I replaced the controller and the valve, if my memory serves me correctly I believe it was right around $1200.00 for the complete unit, took me lees than 10 minutes to install. I believe the controller without the valve was in the neighborhood of $800.00.

That’s why I chose to go with the Danfoss controller Ivan, there’s other cooling needs besides coolant temps.

I chose to go with a new Danfoss controller from Brendenson Fluid Power, I felt that there is other requests for more fan activation than engine coolant temps. I have opened up the engine access in the closet going down the interstate with 80*-90* outside temps to observe everything under load, it’s interesting to witness the fan actuation while at road speeds. I’m sure the wax valve does the same thing. I have the three wire system, one of those wires is hot all the time for some reason!

FYI I use Gunk brand engine degreaser on jobs like that. Not the Foamy formula, just the original one..

I had a cracked drive axle housing on my first truck back in about 88 or 89 (87 Peterbilt), and as a former welder at Butler Tank I was curious when it was welded what rod was used, I do remember that the axle man at the Peterbilt dealership used a 7018 rod, technology might have changed a bit but that’s what we used back then, fyi. I’m somewhat surprised that there’s no gear lube seeping out! That’s how I noticed it back then. Good luck!

I would start with NWRV supply in Oregon. https://www.nwrvsupply.com

I have too, and after 40+ years of trucking I have a grin on my face like you can’t believe!!! 😎 One other thing I do is actually put my hand on the tires on the drive axle, you can feel if there’s a significant temperature difference!

I carry one of these on the coach at all times, pretty handy item to have along! For checking temps on everything! Tires, drive axle, brakes, engine, ………… https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-59-Laser-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00G1V3FG8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2ED0RDFEFC6YQ&keywords=fluke+laser+temp+gun+thermometer&qid=1686356052&sprefix=Fluke+laser+temp+gun%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc

Not that this helps your situation but when I start my coach and there is no air in the system, I stand back by the exhaust pipe and listen for the variable vanes to actuate just to confirm it’s operating. It’s pretty obvious when the air pressure actuates the vanes. I’ve never had a turbo from an ISL apart, but, I have had the turbo from my wife’s truck (05 Ford Powerstroke) off a few times for cleaning due to the variable vanes sometimes stick, at any rate, if your turbo vanes haven’t actuated in some time they maybe seized and need to be disassembled and cleaned up, fyi.

Thanks for the info!

Worn bushings on the side to side tracking rod….. maybe

Hers some more material to read. https://cms.fleetguard.com/en_NA/literature/which-fleetguard-coolant-product-right-you/lt36237

Correct, “I tried not to get any oddball fluids” If you look at Ivin’s chart, the coolant I chose to use is a Universal Extended Life, not to exotic. Thanks for calling it out Ray!

One thing I always kept in mind during my trucking years in business, I always tried to get to exotic with oils, Lubes and coolants just for the simplicity of being forced to buy on the road in the event of some unforeseen need and not finding what I was using at the time, seems like a person is never near a resource when needed. The ES complete EG is tested with the test strips and the strips do expire, they are usually dated on each individual strip packet, fyi. It’s a big job to do it correctly and personally I would bet “most” shops don’t take the time needed but still charge you for it! JMO!

Here is some good reading for those that haven’t found this info, https://www.fleetguard.com/s/coolants-chemicals?language=en_GB&ppc_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4NujBhC5ARIsAF4Iv6cqkLdFao9cNlWJPs1WJKC12Q3fK8yLl8jsvxMo2afryX_uEtaCvxkaAgbPEALw_wcB#-0

When I switch it will be to ES Complete, I use it in all of my diesel equipment, they now have it in Green, used to be a blueish color. When you do this make sure you use distilled water to flush the system and for the final fill. If you do this yourself and use a chemical flush make sure and flush it all out, probably flush 3 times before the final fill. JMO. Cummins has two different chemical choices to use if you didn’t already know. It’s a big job and you have to have a number of 5 gallon pails with lids to contain the old coolant and the flushing for the job. I get my pails at a local home owned bakery.

Nice ride, congratulations on a successful maiden voyage!

When you step on the throttle pedal have you noticed abnormal black exhaust coming from your exhaust pipe? If so you are losing manifold pressure somewhere in the system, and it’s more than likely a breach in the charge air cooler system or piping, if no abnormal black exhaust smoke coming from your exhaust pipe under heavy acceleration it’s possibly a bad gauge or sending unit for the turbo boost gauge.