Jdw12345

That’s for starting this thread Pduggs. I realize that I’m not helping but I have the same issue with my 2005. Previous owner installed a new hp/ac in the main salon with the new style thermostat a month before our purchase and kept the old hp/ac and old style thermostat in rear bedroom, the fan doesn’t not come on under the vanity in the (I call it the shower room) shower room, the heat exchanger does seem to get hot but no fan and the heat exchanger does get hot and blow hot air in the commode room when the switch in the commode room is turned on but cools down after a bit, I assuming do to lack of boiler fluid circulation. I also noticed my wet bay heater seems to come on when the thermostat in the bedroom is on furnace mode. We’re not home now so I can’t experiment but will continue to read the thread, if anyone directs a remedy my way and I don’t answer for a week I’m not ignoring you, we’re just not at home we’re the coach is parked! Thanks in advance!

Salesman Switch bad? Or solenoid?

Sorry, one more. https://airhand.com/product/flexible-hose-rfh/

Here’s another source, https://www.hitechduravent.com/rfh-flexible-hose and one more https://www.blastgateco.com/Flex-Hose.php

I believe that these people should have what you want. https://www.mcmaster.com

Probably hopping he didn’t have a “Water in Fuel” light illuminate when they lite the fuse!

This must be a recent purchase I’m assuming! Can you contact the previous owner?

One of the things I did while researching possible coaches to purchase was to run a Car Fax on them. It doesn’t tell everything about the possible purchase but it can provide more pieces to the puzzle and provide you with info when compared to the seller’s story to what you do know about the history of your potential purchase. You can also get the vin number and the engine numbers and stop at a Cummins dealer and have them do a search to see what pops up, it’s a crap shoot but you have nothing to lose! Generally speaking the more owners any piece of equipment has been through the more they are neglected, that’s just generally speaking, sometimes it’s not true tho! If you are able to find out where the coach was serviced (hopefully by the same facility) that helps in itself, call the facility or if you can stop there and observe the repair facility to get a sense of there work just by looking around, also ask the service facility how well maintained the coach was. As stated above, try everything out, all the functionality of everything, from the slide outs operating smoothly (extending and retracting) to all the doors closing and opening (internal and external) to light switches, cruise control, headlights, everything! Consider a inspection. That price seems to be in the normal selling range for that year and model. Use RV Trader as one point of reference on pricing. One more thing to consider, once you find a model that fits your needs, download the original sales brochure and educate yourself on what was standard equipment and what was optional equipment so you know exactly what you are looking at and how much propaganda you are being told! When considering a purchase from a private party, I always ask the seller how much they know about what they are selling, if they claim to know and you know from the sales brochure or forum’s that they don’t know what they are talking about, you now have a basis of them and there knowledge. With that said, not all sales brochures are 100% but it’s certainly worth noting. It took me three years to figure out and find what I was looking for. JMO

This is just for informational purposes only, in regards to airlines.

So are you speaking of the coach stereo or the in dash stereo?

If you go to a heavy duty truck parts store you can buy the hose in bulk and the fittings you might need. Just google air brake hose and fittings, most Napa stores carry this type of supplies too.

If you don’t have a wet compartment heater it could be used as a port for a heat exchanger in the wet compartment.

Is it possible that the previous owner had a stand alone temp gauge…….

My coach leaks down enough overnight that the low pressure alarm will go off in the morning, I don’t really worry too much about it, would I like to have less air leaks, yes, I have been under my coach a couple of times looking for them. I think a misconception some people might have is that they don’t want to wear out the air compressor because of excessive running of the air compressor, for those that might not know, your air compressor is indeed running all the time, the only difference is that the air governor is controlling if the air coming from the air compressor fills the reservoir tanks or just dumps to the atmosphere, these compressors are not like the air compressor you might have in your shop/garage that actually run as needed, the compressor on your engine is always running, they are gear driven off a accessary drive on the engine.

Just curious, does your 04 8.3 have a EGR cooler?

I see, you have disk brakes on the drive axle, I didn’t realize that vintage of coaches use disks, sorry about the long response for a drum brake configuration!

So are you saying that when your wife applies the service brakes with the parking brake released you hear the air leak? If so, you might have an air leak on the service side of the brake canister, there’s what’s called a pancake in the canister that can fail and leak when the service brakes are applied, sometimes a broken emergency spring can break and cause the leak. So, block the wheels so the coach can not roll, air up the coach and have your wife release the parking brake, wait for a minute and then have her set the parking brake, if you hear any type of clunking noise you possibly might have a broken spring on the emergency side of brake canister, if you hear anything other than air rushing through the brake lines there’s a chance of a bad or worn brake chamber. If you need to replace a brake canister get a complete canister, don’t purchase what’s called a “piggyback” that’s just the emergency side of the canister, I would stay away from less expensive brand canister’s, we’re talking about your brakes here! MGM brand is possibly what’s on your coach and a very good brand, they should cost you about 150 bucks for a complete canister, they are available at any heavy duty truck dealers, Peterbilt, Kenworth, Freightliner, possibly NAPA etc. If you have a tag axle it’s possible that you could have a leaking pancake on the service brake on the tag axle, the tag axle does not have a emergency side to the canister, only a service side. The pancake is serviceable but can be kinda of a pain to deal with the clamp on it, but it’s certainly possible to do. Now, if you are comfortable with changing the canister out, just google it and watch some videos, if not by all means take it to a trk shop and have them do it, it’s only about a 45 minute job to change out a brake canister. Make sure if you do the work that you get the air hoses back on the canister on the correct port, there’s two air lines going to each canister on the drive axle, one for the parking brake, ie emergency side, and one going to the service side. If you do have a bad break canister I would recommend changing out both of them, again, we’re talking about your brakes! You will have to back the brakes off manually to do this job and you’ll have to cut the If you go to a parts house to purchase the parts they will most likely ask you what size you need, I’m 99% positive that you’ll need what’s called a 30-30 with a 2 1/2” stroke, it has to do with the size of the chambers and the stroke. I put a couple of links down below for reference. If you google a 30-30 brake canister you’ll be able to find all kinds for sale, anywhere from 45-50 bucks on up, the choice is yours. After making a living in the trucking business some things are not worth taking the cheapest route, brakes are not one of them, IMO. After all of that, it’s possibly you may only need to replace a brake line or fitting! If you changed out a brake valve I’m assuming you are not to afraid of working on your coach or have some degree of mechanical confidence! One last item, if you change out your brake canister, by all means, do not get curious and cut the band that holds the canister together! There’s a spring in there that is extremely dangerous! https://www.fleetpride.com/parts/air-system/chambers/spring-brake-chamber/mgm-brakes-spring-brake-chamber-3430051?cclcl=en_US https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiBtPakjL39AhWwyZQJHU9fCkEYABAHGgJ5bQ&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESbOD2FVn_QsdM0g2w6UPu0K0ExzACVMUBpxS3x1Om6o8sR0MApjsEHxIoYz-NAFOQ8K9hwp04HMAufamii11ZKQPH22p0zzqBZbnjcEmZLPHU0STwT55rq2JXFZepm4A2DFVOPJQNIbb5gxfmjA&sig=AOD64_152bD8N0zEz4oMOtg9hzfTOWiqow&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjts-6kjL39AhWRnGoFHR9oAKMQ5bgDKAB6BAgDEBY&adurl=

My 05 Monaco Dynasty is hydraulic on the passenger side and electric on the driver side.

Sorry I didn’t respond to one of your original questions, the air restriction gauge should be trending towards the bigger numbers on the gauge, it could be somewhat misleading because the gauge is upside down, you should be able to reset the gauge if you want to recheck the restriction, just push on the top (actually the bottom but it’s upside down) to reset, it is perfectly fine to reset the gauge it should just come back to is current reading of restriction after a few miles with a moderate to heavy load. Changing air filters is as controversial as “when to change oil” and by all means if you feel more comfortable changing the air filter then just go ahead and change it, as mentioned before, if you open up the filter canister it’s not a bad idea to wipe everything clean in there with a damp cloth. If you do decide to open it up take some pictures of the filter and post them, it would be interesting to see. It’s always interesting to see how people maintain equipment and it’s always interesting to see how equipment is maintained based on if there are making a living with it or it’s a luxury item! Once again, JMO!

Once you cut that off, there’s no going back if it doesn’t work, you’re committed! At least on an older coach!

Ok, put the air hose to it! It’s recommended not to open it unnecessarily.

So,what engine do you have? Curious……. That’s just crazy, some Ford Louisville trucks used an engine from Brazil that had some bazaar parts on it, maybe a heavy duty Ford dealership might have something to fit it.

Fwiw, I trucked for myself for 25 plus years, all total a shade over 3 million miles, on my first truck, the engine went down for the first time at 780’xxx miles, (not anything to do with air restriction) the air restriction gauge hardly had moved in all those miles, still on the original air filters, I was convinced at around 350’xxx miles the filters needed to be changed and the restriction gauge was inoperable, so I removed the hose from the intake piping and sucked on it with vacuum from my mouth, my wife watched the gauge, it worked perfectly and I didn’t have to suck all that hard, so I would test the gauge that way and inspect the air hose to the intake piping as needed. You will not be doing the coach any favors by opening up the air filter canister to change the filter, if I remember correctly in the owners manual from Peterbilt, it stated that would probably do more harm by dropping debris in the intake, I also remember that blowing out the filter with air was not recommended at all! Just my experience, fwiw. http://filterminder.com/resources/learn-more/49-resources/general-information/120-calibration.html

I’m north sure what to think about cutting the top flange off to install these.

What size is the flange?