Jdw12345

That’s my opinion too! ^ One other thing to consider if anyone plans on changing your own tires on the road, make sure the jack you have will fit under the axle when you have a flat! Fwiw!

Thank you sir, 3 million miles of trucking and doing all my own work.

I guess my assumption was that anyone carrying a mounted spare would have mounted it on a steel rim, 8 out of 8 chances you’d be right. And if you carried the tools to change it out you’d be totally self sufficient on the road if problems accrued. Hopefully if you didn’t carry a mounted spare the aluminum rim wouldn’t get damaged during the event, chances are that it wouldn’t, my luck it would! I’ve done my own tires since 1986, truck tires anyway! My shop at home in the picture below.

I believe if you try and double up on the aluminum wheels (drive axle) the studs are not long enough to accommodate two aluminum wheels, the steel wheels are much thinner, I haven’t tried it but I have had the drive tires off on the passenger side and I recall looking at the stud length saying I would need a steel wheel for a spare because of the studs not being long enough! I have a steel rim for a spare, it will work in any position!

Please explain……

A bad or poorly adjusted bearing can cause uneven tire wear also, not saying that’s your problem but sometimes people forget about a bad or mis-adjusted bearing. The Alinment shop that did all of my trks when I was in the trucking business told me years ago that a bit of toe in is acceptable due to the fact that the axle ends actually bow back due to the forces of just going down the road at speed. FYI

Fwiw, I believe my 05 Dynasty with an ISL common rail has a VGT with the 2 stage Jake Brake and no exhaust treatment of any sorts, the chassis was built in mid 04 and the coach was built in late 04. Having a “Jake Brake” and no after treatment were must have items on my list of items I wanted for my coach purchase. If my Jake’s are turned on the CC will not work, i don’t understand that but at some point in time I’m going to go to Cummins and hook up to the software and go through it with a tech to see what my options are, I did that on my Peterbilt’s and at the time there’s a number of different options you had, I had Caterpillars in my trucks. Interesting conversation, I’ve made my living behind a Jake Break, at just a tad over 3 million miles!

Might be time for the “Red Wrench”!

Windshield wind noise……. the wind might be whistling around your windshield and into the coach!

I replaced my front and rear marker lights last winter, I used clear silicone sealer to reseal the fixtures, I removed the old lights and used a utility knife with a new blade to remove the old sealer around the removed lights, I had to actually cut the old light fixtures off. These are the lights I used, https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/MCL32ATB.html

I had to unbolt the passengers chair and move it back a bit, did not remove any wiring on the chair and also remove the top door stop to open the entrance door a bit more to get a new washer/ dryer in my 05 Dynasty.

Maybe this will help someone, https://www.wabco-customercentre.com/catalog/docs/mm34_web.pdf This is a handy document to save.

Thank you for your efforts, I have saved it to my files and I’m guessing it will be handy to have in the future! Thank you!

So I changed the dip switch settings, number 1 off 2 on 3 on 4 on i have AGM house batteries which doesn’t see correct according to the manual, but it was the way the previous owner had it set, when I read the manual that was posted above I set the dip switch’s according the the manual, so I switched the switch’s back the the previous owners settings, the batteries are 8 years old so I can only assume that the settings will work. My voltage did drop down to 14.5 so I’m guessing it nut have worked with this coach. Until I have any issues I’ll probably just leave it alone, that’s all I know now. My coach, while not in use, sits in my climate controlled building and plugged into shore power and no solar inputs. Thanks for your pictures!

So you disconnected the feed from the solar panel into the controller, is that correct? I’m assuming that I’ll, have to cover the feed line because there’s energy coming from the panel?

Rangerboat, just curious if you have made any progress on your controller? We’re back out in the coach for a week and yesterday I was showing 21 volts on the Aladdin screen, just wondering if I should disconnect my controller till we get home? Thanks in advance.

I completely agree, I’m not concerned about jumping curbs but what I’m concerned about would be hitting a recap treed from a tire blow out that you couldn’t avoid, I’m not worried about the clean up, I’d be more concerned about losing an engine! JMHO 2!

Here’s a link for a new one, hopefully this will help? https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/cover-hub-baby-moon-indented-uneven-6-notch-01806299/

I found on my 05 that 40lbs maxed out the drive axle, at 50lbs it maxed out the steer axle, so depending on your coach configuration and how much carry on weight and water, fuel etc you have that should be a good starting point!

I would be tempted to try and clean the inside of the cooling system first. Jmo. https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/cleaners

These publications should help. owners manual. https://library.aquahot.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/AHE-100-04S130-04XAqua-HotOwnersManual09-29-04_002.pdf parts manual https://library.aquahot.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/AHE-100-04S_AHE-130-04X_PARTS_MANUAL_Rev._C_01-2013.pdf Shop manual. https://library.aquahot.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/AHE-100-04S_AHE-120-04X_AHE-130-04X_Shop_Manual_REV_C_05-2014.pdf

I’m looking for one also, the previous owner kinda buggered this one up.

You should be able to get a maxi-brake chamber ( commonly referred as) at any place that sells heavy duty truck parts, NAPA, Peterbilt,Kenworth, Freightliner, Fleet Pride, etc…… you simply purchase one with a long threaded rod and cut to length as needed. If you need to move the coach you can cage the brake chamber with a caging bolt that should be fastened to the side of the chamber, this is just to move the coach to a safe location, if you do this you WILL NOT HAVE ANY BRAKES on that wheel end! You should be able to do a google search and learn more. I was purchase a complete chamber apposed to doing what’s called just a “piggy back” where you only get the front half and a new pancake for between the parking brake and the service brake. Jmo.

Is this a drive axle or a tag axle?