Jdw12345

Hey Tom, Quoting you below, are you referring to the air dryer? “I haveNO IDEA as to what you are supposed to do to make sure it is working....that would be in the manual..”

One other thing to consider if you have water in your air system, ask your self when the last time the air dryer was serviced, if you don’t know the answer it’s best to be serviced, the compressor on the engine will put moisture in your air system also as well as a malfunctioning leavening compressor and you don’t really know were it’s coming from, l rebuilt my stationary leveling system a year ago, new compressor, pressure valve and solenoid and made sure the built in moisture valve was working correctly and clean. Tom Cherry is correct, you don’t want any moisture in your air system! When I ran my trucking business I serviced the air dryer every year, without fail! Jmo.

Sorry for the long delay, working through my FIL’s death and estate, Xmas, then a 16 year old pet that had to be put down it’s been a interesting couple of months to say the least! So this is what I have in the coach currently, I believe it’s all original equipment from Monaco. Pictures below. I have confirmed that I can play a dvd in the vcr/dvd player and it plays on the tv and the sound system in the main living area. Once again thank you for all of your help and I appreciate all of your input and ideas, we are now in a location that has cable tv some I’m checking into hooking up to that, hopefully tagging my issues onto Dr4Film’s thread is ok with him! Much appreciated! Regards Jeff

Brad, In step 2C, where is the Engine Diagnostic Switch, are you referring to the ignition switch?

If your rig has sat for a while and the last time you drove it it was raining, it’s not uncommon for the brakes to stick to the drum, I’ve has this happen to my work truck, if you simply release the park brake and step on the brake pedal somewhat hard but not a full application it might brake it lose,if that didn’t work you might try putting the coach in reverse and try to back up a bit if you have the room to do so, just be ready to apply the brakes with your left foot should brake lose, obviously if you decide to go under the coach block at least two wheel positions, if not more and tap the drum with a hammer, hit on the outer edge of the drum progressively harder till the brakes free up. It sounds like your coach has sat for a bit, I didn’t realize that, I was under the assumption that you may have just stopped for a rest stop during the day. Hopefully this will help you out.

You might need a new maxi brake canister, a s-cam bushing might be bad and the s-cam is wedged. Your arrow is pointed at the anchor pin side of the brakes, very little movement on that side, the front of the brake is where the most movement occurs, that’s the s-cam side. It’s also possible that you have a bad slack adjuster and it’s adjusting to tight. If you freed it before I’m guessing you might have a bad s-cam or bushings.

If your manifolds are 24 years old, I would say that’s acceptable service, I would be purchasing new Cummins manifolds. I would think that change’s would have been incorporated into the new manifolds, for the better, we hope!

My 05 Dynasty works the same as Brian J’s, I was always thinking that the switches were they to let you know that a basement door was ajar but I have no indicator light on the dash to warn me about that. Somewhere I read/heard that they warned you of a basement door that might be open when you wanted to extend or retract a slide out, not sure why you would need to know that, they don’t hit when a slide is out, unless there’s enough flex or vertical movement extending and retracting. Idk.

We left Mn on Friday afternoon, 20* outside, ran the generator and aqua hot for about 1.5 hours while loading and hooking up, my coach sits in my heated shop so granted the 50 gallons of water and the entire coach was around 50* when we pulled it out to the house to load, the wet bay stayed around 45-50* all the way to Miami Ok, it was still 20-25* almost all the way to Kansas City. Last night we were in Amarillo and it was 20* the wind was blowing like stink and this morning it was almost 60* in the wet bays. If everything is in working order your basement and plumbing should be fine. My water system was not winterized, no problem at that temp. I didn’t use the AH on diesel or electric running down the road, just set both front and rear thermostats at 70 using engine circulation thru the AH plus the dash heating. I did use the AH at nighttime while sleeping and just plugged in at a park with a 110 cord for lights and inverter/charger to keep battery banks up, sorry I can’t help with the boondocks aspect. We’re in Alamogordo NM tonight, much warmer! We have a 100-04S Safe travels!

If you purchase valve extension hoses try to find ones that are used and designed for the trucking industry, they are generally a heavier design and if they’ve been around awhile they are probably a better quality. I have the ones that came on my 05 Dynasty that I purchased a year and a half ago, I’m assuming that they where installed when the coach was built, I maybe lose 5lbs of pressure in one set of duels and no lose from the other set of duels, I have no idea what brand they are. Jmo.

My 12 volt power wire for my docking lights was not routed in a good manner so last spring while installing new steer axle tires I did a reroute and noticed my drivers side rear steer axle air bag was close to that shock, it had enough clearance for me to put a washer in between the shock mount and the shock mounting eyelet and it moved it away a bit. FWIW.

Any updates?

Somewhere in the owners manual it should say what’s required.

I’ve never looked at the hitch on my 05 with the thought of replacing it, without walking out to the shop and looking at it, I’m thinking it’s welded on to the frame, I doubt it’s bolted on as a component! That price seems high to me but if they are going to totally remove what you have and start from scratch, maybe not. I would think that if they removed the receiver tube they could weld in a new tube, again, I’m not there to see it, it’s really hard to speculate what has to be done with out seeing it!

I’m not there to see it first hand but I would think the hitch could be sleeved, plug welded and fishplated, of some fashion to make it safe. Unless there’s not enough real estate to make it happen! I’m guessing there’s plenty of people out there that are able to fix it just not willing to take the liability, it’s probably not much different than stretching a frame on a car trailer (I’ve done a couple) or trk or the such. I had to build a riser to go into a receiver for a trailer I had that sat high, as the original one I purchased cracked, the one I built was twice as heavy as the one I bought, sleeved, double gussets. JMO. like I said, I’m not there looking at it thou!

You might need new window felts!

I think that’s what I have, fwiw.

I might have 5 of those at home, I’ll be there tomorrow if you want me to look for them? Post a picture please.

Thanks Ivan! so, if you turn the thermostat to furnace mode, will heat come from the furnace vents and get its heat transferred in the same way as the wet bay heater?

So does the heat exchanger in the wet bay heat the wet bay from the engine traveling down the road if the Aqua Hot is off?

Do you have the part numbers for the seal kits? where is advanced fluid systems located also? Thanks

Hopefully your not thinking the air minder should be attached to the governor, it might have been disconnected and just tucked in an easy location. FYI.

If it’s plugged into a GFI protected outlet I’d check to make sure it’s not tripped.

Air governor!

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Valve-Extenders-s/187.htm https://wheelmasters.com