Jdw12345

Correct, “I tried not to get any oddball fluids” If you look at Ivin’s chart, the coolant I chose to use is a Universal Extended Life, not to exotic. Thanks for calling it out Ray!

One thing I always kept in mind during my trucking years in business, I always tried to get to exotic with oils, Lubes and coolants just for the simplicity of being forced to buy on the road in the event of some unforeseen need and not finding what I was using at the time, seems like a person is never near a resource when needed. The ES complete EG is tested with the test strips and the strips do expire, they are usually dated on each individual strip packet, fyi. It’s a big job to do it correctly and personally I would bet “most” shops don’t take the time needed but still charge you for it! JMO!

Here is some good reading for those that haven’t found this info, https://www.fleetguard.com/s/coolants-chemicals?language=en_GB&ppc_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4NujBhC5ARIsAF4Iv6cqkLdFao9cNlWJPs1WJKC12Q3fK8yLl8jsvxMo2afryX_uEtaCvxkaAgbPEALw_wcB#-0

When I switch it will be to ES Complete, I use it in all of my diesel equipment, they now have it in Green, used to be a blueish color. When you do this make sure you use distilled water to flush the system and for the final fill. If you do this yourself and use a chemical flush make sure and flush it all out, probably flush 3 times before the final fill. JMO. Cummins has two different chemical choices to use if you didn’t already know. It’s a big job and you have to have a number of 5 gallon pails with lids to contain the old coolant and the flushing for the job. I get my pails at a local home owned bakery.

Nice ride, congratulations on a successful maiden voyage!

When you step on the throttle pedal have you noticed abnormal black exhaust coming from your exhaust pipe? If so you are losing manifold pressure somewhere in the system, and it’s more than likely a breach in the charge air cooler system or piping, if no abnormal black exhaust smoke coming from your exhaust pipe under heavy acceleration it’s possibly a bad gauge or sending unit for the turbo boost gauge.

I would think there’s one on the S cam bushings.

I replaced my oem muffler with a Walker 22552 from Amazon for $185.xx, it was an exact fit on my 05 Dynasty with the ISL, obviously an 09 might have a different muffler configuration with an after treatment system, and yes, more engine information would be helpful. The previous owner had backed up against something and forced the rear mudflap up into the muffler partially crushing it was why I replaced mine and the new muffler actually looked less restricted internally than the original, I’m sure Walker was looking for ways to cut costs and still produce a replacement with an acceptable noise level. One more bit of advice, when/if you replace your muffler yourself, if you use “band” type pipe clamps go to a heavy duty truck parts house and get good quality clamps, if you have access to a good 3/8” impact gun tighten the clamps as tight as possible and then again after a few hundred miles. Jmo.

I believe that led lights are polarity sensitive (if you didn’t know) so check before you finalize your connections.

This is what a genuine wabco air dryer cartridge should look like. Don’t be tricked into thinking you’re getting oem quality at half the price. JMO. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-WABCO-Air-Dryer-Cartridge/dp/B09D54MZFK/ref=sr_1_5?hvadid=198632460142&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1020156&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13355952377851875628&hvtargid=kwd-296872839531&hydadcr=7246_9585978&keywords=wabco+r950011&qid=1682588372&sr=8-5

I can’t give any real long term advice, other than we purchased our coach a little over a year and a half ago, it has 2 group 31 FLA chassis batteries that are 4 years old, I have 4 AGM Full River DC250 house batteries that are 9 years old, I have a zantrex 2012 inverter/charger set, to my understanding, correctly for the AGM’s charging profile, they seem to maintain a 13.4-13.8 when checked with a multi meter, the chassis batteries could probably withstand a higher voltage but I don’t believe that’s possible, with my setup. Fwiw.

You might want to check your crankcase ventilation system also, depending on how the system was designed it may not be operating correctly, that new of a coach my require a positive crank case ventilation.

Once you have the screws out if you have trouble lifting out the panel just use some Velcro.

Not much to it, compressor, air hose and an air nozzle. Don’t blow sideways against the fins. https://www.northerntool.com/products/ironton-24in-air-blow-gun-49482?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Air Tools %2B Compressors > Air Tools %2B Accessories > Air Blow Guns&utm_campaign=Ironton&utm_content=49482&ogmap=SHP|LIA|GOOG|STND|c|SITEWIDE|||||19587500873|142201200701&gclid=CjwKCAjwitShBhA6EiwAq3RqA75oroJwJkTEhgMmmcquTpXmlOj2BZS11gwsMZqpbdSZIGgPPKNItBoC8dwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds If the heat exchanger (of any type) has any oil residue on it, after blowing it as clean as possible with air, we’d use Gunk Engine Cleaner, original non foaming, spray it all down let it sit for 30 minutes the use garden hose with a spray nozzle, nothing to fancy, and rinse.

I married into a farming family, myself, I was in the trucking business, one thing I’ll share with you after cleaning radiators and after coolers on trucks and large farm equipment is use, compressed air first before you put the water to it, if you didn’t know!

I guess I’d start at the battery connections. See if you have and wonky stuff going on in the FRB, indicator lights on the buss bars being somewhat dim, lose connections, so on and so on……… I have even seen running lights get moisture in them and do weird things too! Let us know what you find!

Sounds like a grounding issue to me, when I purchased our coach a year and a half ago I tightened every ground screw I saw, when I started finding my way around our new coach I found ground wires and ground bars everywhere, I put a screwdriver to every one I noticed and if I run across one I haven’t tightened I stop and put a screwdriver to it, it’s surprising how many are somewhat loose! I wish I had a definitive answer for your issue!

I would almost think I’d want a heated floor if I had tile or some type of hard flooring, I like walking around in the middle of the night when I get up to use the head, if it’s cold out I don’t spend much time on the tile in the galley/hallway.

I ran across this a year or so back, thought it was pretty cool, don’t know if I’d want to pull it!

What model of AH do you have?

On rear radiator coaches it usually pushes hot air out the back! That’s why a rear radiator coach should be inspected on the engine side of the radiator for debris causing air flow restriction.

This might help someone diagnose and understand PPV issues on there coach, it’s mounted on a semi trailer but the operation is still the same as on our coaches.

Congrats! Now the fun begins!

Did you get a new float switch or did you use the old one or does that model even need that switch! I’m not sure how different the 02 is compared to my 04. Did the boiler burn out or spring a leak? Sorry for all the questions, how many hours on your unit? Don’t rule out a bad new sensor.

Have you checked the circuit at the santicon with a multimeter to confirm your thoughts on the blown fuse?