lake49068

Allison Fort Myers was here yesterday, hooked up their diagnostic computer and checked for fault codes. Nothing showed up, the coach started, the idle was perfect and tyranny went into drive and reverse without issue. And no harness issues. The tech said there is an internal harness buried in the sump that may have been the cause and replacing it would take a day at their shop. He considers the problem as an anomaly and recommended no immediate action be taken. He will prepare a detailed diagnosis report with my bill for future reference should the problem reoccur. He was pretty positive so will wait a bit to see if it happens again on the way home in late February/early March. Hopefully! I was impressed with the tech and would recommend Allison Fort Myers for any tyranny work in SW Florida.

Found the transmission control box in the rear most curb side compartment on wall above & to left of inverter. That's one question off the list. Fort Myers getting hammered by rain and don't want to check out the "idle speed" suggestion until we get some clearing in case I need to go outside. The coach did go into reverse so if the idle is too high I would think it would not go into reverse either. Allison tech still not scheduled but they did get the billing info they wanted! Not sure how this thread got into the "electrical" topic heading but had started the day with another entry about my 120v inverter circuit problem. Guess that category carried over since I didn't have an option for selecting another pigeon hole. Maybe one of the moderators can put this one in the "transmission" folder.

The coach wouldn't start after fueling (no starter clicks or noise, Arens key pad displayed "6-3") and it would not go into "NN" either. Sat there a bit after cutting off the chassis batteries to potentially reboot any computer and still no recovery. Typical Sunday afternoon, called Allison and the local Fort Myers Allison shops...no one taking calls. Went on line and Googled "Allison Fault Codes" and came up with nothing useful except a YouTube video where the guy said to hold the mode button in for 10 seconds to clear any codes. Worked! Key pad showed "NN", coach started right up and we cleared the pump we were blocking for 2 hours. We drove the last 4 miles to our RV park, backed in and shut it down...didn't have the courage to turn it off at the gate or anywhere between Loves and our site. Tried to start it the next day and it did start...HOWEVER it will not engage DRIVE. Reverse engages but nothing forward. I'm still waiting for an Allison mobile tech to show up, check for error codes, etc. Any ideas of what's happening? While going through the prep for the technician, thought I'd find the Allison "brain" but I couldn't find it in the FRB or in the driver's side console. Where to look?? (Allison 2500MH tranny behind a Cummins ISB 340/360)

There is no power on the circuit that feeds the bathroom GFI receptacle, TV, kitchen plugs, dining area, etc. Thought it was probably a bad GFI (already replaced twice but not recently) but the replacement did not fix it. When I was checking the feed wire, I would get 120v but nothing after installing the new GFI. So I decided to bypass the GFI completely by connecting the 2 black load wires to the single black line wire. Did the same for the neutrals. Surprising, it worked momentarily and is dead again per the voltage meter plugged into a kitchen outlet. Actually had it show power but only as spike needle deflection but nothing since. Note that the breakers on the inverter did not pop and checked them periodically during diagnosis. Have tried with and without the inverter "on." Do I have an inverter problem and if so, is there a way of checking it out? Note also that the microwave is working (2nd leg of inverter if I remember). Have not checked the transfer switch...also a potential cause even though the rear AC, washer and more are working? Very frustrating!

Another potential reason. The shafts that go through the cowl are held in place by push on spring clips visible from the outside of the coach. My clips were too tight and had to pry them a bit for clearance to keep the shaft from binding. I also gave the shafts a shot of silicone spray to help prevent binding. Between the 2, solved my problem. Think the motor has thermal overload which shuts it down if too much resistance which you may have experienced as well.

Have a 2010 Neptune that was delivered with an IOTA that Navistar replaced at the Chapter 419 Maintenance Session not long after delivery. Think it was a SurgeGard which failed after just a few years. Replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics (not to be confused with Progressive Industries!), no problems and no hum. Wire entry was fairly easy and very competitive pricing.

You may consider a thin sound bar to fill the gap and get improved audio as well. I did a "surface mount" rather than put it inside the enclosure which permitted keeping the original wood surround. Getting the same brand sound bar as the TV should keep the number of remotes under control, too.

Since all the outlets downstream from the GFI are "daisy chained," a loose connection at one of those may cause the GFI to trip or act funny. Had a similar problem, changed out the GFI and the tripping continued. Remembered a similar problem written up on this site and started checking the downstream outlets . Found the loose wire (think it was the ground) on the 3rd of 4 outlets on the chain.

I also have the T-Mobile internet "tower" and it provides excellent service for streaming even though we live in the south central Michigan boonies. We do take the tower with us on trips and it is plugged in near the kitchen table strapped to the shade valence...worked well all the way from the boonies, through the UP to NW Iowa and home. HOWEVER, last winter while at our Fort Myers RV site (just west of Camping World off I-75), it wouldn't work...T-Mobile cell phones provided minimal service as well. So when one goes from "boonies" to a major metropolitan area (Fort Myers) the service is not guaranteed. Neighbors suggested getting an AT&T hot spot which we did out of desperation and it worked but marginal at best. We're getting ready to depart for Fort Myers and I'm bringing along the AT&T hot spot (deactivated when we returned home in April) "just in case" but wondering if anyone has had any luck with a cell booster that works with T-Mobile in the Fort Myers area.

Also found that the "floor" was too flimsy. It needed more sub support and a thicker base. I also added a rubber floor (stall mat found at Tractor Supply). Splendide also recommended making sure the unit was level. Did it all, better but still know it's running!

Very surprised at 10+ mpg! If you're stopping your fuel fill when the pump turns off, you may not be adding the same amount as consumed. My Neptune has a goofy fill neck and usually takes another 8-10 gallons after pump shutoff. I use a flashlight and continue adding until it is visually up into the filler neck. On our first long trip, actually ran out of fuel at the pump since I was mentally calculating published tank capacity x approximate mpg. Gage was surprisingly accurate...as in E. Was very lucky with location!

Possible brake chamber diaphragms aging out and leaking? Like tires, that rubber deteriorates over time, too.

Another possibility...perhaps the potted control "box" mounted in the water heater? Had a similar problem with my long-gone '98 Endeavor. Our local RV shop (also long gone) had a tester that checked the boards circuitry and it just wasn't functioning. Replaced it and no more issues. See if you have a local shop with a tester or call Atwood tech service. This also goes back to that era...Atwood talked me through the board diagnostics which was subsequently confirmed by our local shop.

REV was no help (say they don't have that level of build detail) and AutoMotion says it's not their shade. I gave up trying to figure out if it is a adjustment issue (very awkward location) and have an appointment at Veurinks to have the motor replaced. Too cumbersome for me and they have the experience.

I've been chasing for the identity of the manufacurer of the shade as I'm still hoping it's an adjustment issue. Have been in contact with the third potential source (Automotion) and trying to confirm the manufacturer through REV in the interim. If it's not an adjustment, next step will be a REV or Veurinks service appointment. The screen assembly is sure in an awkward location and definitely needs 4 hands to get out.

Just for fun, when to the Veurinks RV parts site and they have the switch for $57.25.

No, helping turn the screen shaft tube does not help it move...lots of tension/resistance and feels like it always has. And taking the screen down , disassembling and trying to fix something internal will have to wait until someone chimes in with a good story about those 2 mystery screws. Still hoping it's just adjustment...

Have 2 separate switches, one for Day roller, one for Night roller. Each switch is a 2 position rocker switch located on left/driver's side console; push top of switch for shade up, push bottom of switch for shade down. They look like typical Carling switches used on most Monaco/HR coaches. There is probably no problem with the switches, think it's upper and lower limit adjustment at the roller end. And think the 2 screw-like things shown in the picture are for setting upper and lower control limits.

The "night" (white) roller will not lower and don't know how to adjust it. It does "jog" so there is power and some movement. Went on line and viewed lots of videos on how to do adjust them but all the demonstrated adjustment instructions indicate that there are "set buttons" wired into the roller end and I don't have that style. I contacted MCD (not theirs), they suggested Irwin (not theirs, they suggested United Shade) but based on my research and in a phone discussion with Bradd & Hall, they think United went out of business years ago. There are 2 plastic screws that have slots for a screw driver at the left end of the shade but I don't want to turn them until I know how they work. Pictures of replacement motors on Amazon show a similar design but without any instructions on how to adjust them. Plus the screws are in an awkward location so really don't want to be start turning them until I'm sure what I'm doing. See picture. Does anyone know how to adjust this design? Adam 2010 HR Neptune 37PDQ

Had lots of bulb problems over the years and a number of ways to address. If you have any extra/surplus switches, you can disassemble the base and change out the bulb with a good one. Not the easiest job the first time, little springs and small parts that fly about and reassembly is hard if you're not sure where parts go. Bulbs have pigtails that are fun to put in the correct slots, too. There are some 12v LED bulbs with pigtails on Amazon that work but a lot of trouble. Easiest approach is buying a new switch base...got mine through Veurinks in Grand Rapids, MI parts store. Tom's suggestion of using a switch cover removal tool highly recommended...didn't know there was such a thing and one is in my Amazon wish list. Can't guess how many covers I've ruined. Get the tool and call Veurinks!

Think this has been covered before. Check the ID tag on the axle (Rockwell/Meritor or Eaton/Dana). Both shipped "dressed axles" (complete with wheel ends/brakes/slacks/etc) to HR/Monaco. Contact customer support at the appropriate axle manufacturer's customer service line, provide the axle serial number and they should be able to call up all the components used to assemble that assembly.

Should be a manufacturer's tag with serial number on the axle (most likely Dana but could be Eaton or Meritor). Pretty sure Monaco/HR received the axles "dressed", ie, complete with brakes. Contact axle supplier's tech service and they should have the parts breakdown for that assembly. "Back in the day" when employed by Eaton/Dana Axle, their files and tech service were excellent in providing this type of info.

Surprising that HR/Monaco designs were so different year to year and model to model. Owned a '98 Endeavor and now a '10 Neptune and both had/have drain tubing. Also couldn't find duck bill outlets but plastic garden hose screens can be attached to the outlet to prevent bugs from entering/nesting.

TSD has worked very well for me with Sam’s as a secondary. Also have the Pilot/Flying J charge card which offers the posted price (not credit card) and a per gallon discount (5 cents?) when other options are not available . Was also concerned about allowing access to my checking account so opened a secondary checking account with a minimal balace for ALL my direct withdrawal accounts (not just TSD). So far so good! Couldn't believe that TSD was netting out at about 40 cents/gal savings which explains the number of semi's at our local Loves...assume they have a discount plan like TSD.

Inertia switch internal to the BB. Does not rely on an external signal.