lake49068

Don't understand the reference to a "Brake Buddy" on the blue wire. Thought that the BB got its power through the toad's 12v system not directly from the coach connection. Except there is usually provision for keeping the toad's battery charged from the "hot" 12v line from the coach.

Have a similar age coach, wipers stalled and think it tripped the motor's thermal overload function. Found that the rods going out through the front cap to the knurled thingy that the wiper arm attaches to was binding. Loosened the push clips for more clearance and lubed the shaft/tube with a good silicone spray. Giving those 2 shafts a shot of silicone spray is on my annual service list. Replaced the wiper motor before finding the binding.

Had TV reception problem that turned out to be a bad connector between Winegard roof entry and coach coax. Coax connector was accessible through ceiling map light. Did some other ceiling rewiring and it was accessible by removing the ceiling speakers permitting full run across full front cap space. And really surprised by the minimal amount of insulation in the cap area!

You should try Veurinks in Grand Rapids, MI. I've gotten HR/Monaco switch bases and covers a number of times. They have a pretty good web site or call 616-281-5111.

Magnadyne tech support volunteered the info about the "custom" harness so not surprised they're not on the website. Hope that my comments are still good...

I contacted Magnadyne a few years back to see if they had a newer 1.5 DIn replacement radio..no. But they did have a 1.5 to single DIN adaptor plate plus they could provide a wiring harness to connect any brand of single DIN radio to the coach's original Magnadyne connectors. Perhaps an easier approach? My Magnadyne radio had a problem with the Sirius/XM function so decided to buy a stand alone XM receiver connected to the radio's audio input. Even simpler!

Scooted under the coach and in the open area on the curb side between the steps and Onan was a connector...the red wire was hanging loose, only a blind man would miss it. Cleaned up the corrosion, made a jumper and all is well. Pretty simple if you know what you're looking for. Thanks for the help!

Drew, same problem with the dash start/stop. REV tried to help at 419MS a while back (and screwed up dash AC contol!) and new switch base did not help. Where o where was the corroded connector?

Are you using the "auto level" feature of your leveling system? Has it been calibrated per the manual? Double check the actual level of your coach using a carpenters bubble level just to make sure that both the level and auto level system are in sync.

We usually travel to my wife's hometown in NW Iowa in September from our home in South Central Michigan. I find the route over the Mighty Mac a lot less stressful than I-80 around Chicago! The bridge authority does a good job of managing the crossing during high wind conditions either by stopping traffic or providing an escort vehicle at a lower, safer speed. Plus there is the opportunity to enjoy the UP. Drive the bridge at a comfortable steady speed, put on the 4-ways and enjoy the beautiful scenery and parks after the crossing.

Richard Smith is right on! This light is fantastic. Bright LED, a double click of the interior on/off switch and activates the motion detector function. An adaptor plate is also available to cover any big holes from the old light...comes in b lack or white.

After seeing the picture of the Surge Guard, I remembered that's the one installed by REV, was noisy and failed after just a few years. Whoops!

Installed the Progressive Dynamics 50 Amp unit 3-4 years ago after the noisy Esco unit (installed by REV as part of the IOTA recall) failed. Quiet and made in USA, very happy. Don't understand why it doesn't get more positive press. Do have the Progressive Industries hard wired surge protection upstream. They are different companies.

Don't forget you can get 90 degree and adjustable angle fittings of the right diameter in the water heater section of the big box stores. Adam

I "reinstalled" our Splendide not long after purchasing the coach new. It is a 2010 38PDQ and the washer hookup is to the left of the rear closet in a curb side cabinet over the rear furnace. I pulled the washer to reconstruct the floor...they used very thin plywood that did not adequately support the washer either while it was operating and obviously while going down the road. Rebuilt the floor with stronger "joists" and new plywood but can't see/measure the thickness now. It's been a lot of years but probably 1/2" or 5/8". Then I added a rubber pad (Tractor Supply stall pad) to mitigate the unit's vibration when running. Strongly suggest this mod. If your floor plan is the same and you need a measurement, I'll try to get a ruler in the small space...ask in a reply.

And an additional wrinkle...could the ride enhancement kit installed by HR (different air bags) require a different ride height setting than the "as built/standard" air bags? Adam

As part of my annual maintenance, air bag height is checked. The coach seemed to "look different" after the October annual and it did drive OK on the short trip home. Fast forward to a very severe storm on our way to Florida in January (first outing since the annual) and the coach seemed to be much easier to control and had better directional stability in the rain and wind. (I had the Monaco ride enhancement kit installed and converted over to the TRW steering box...both vast improvements over "as delivered".) I contacted my service shop and they are checking to find out what they did differently and assume they raised the coach a bit since it seems to sit a bit higher. The service manager is checking on the setting the tech used but has not come back to me yet. I also called Source Engineering and told him the specs I have for the the bags are 6 15/16" front and 8 1/2" rear and he agreed with the rear but said the front should be 7 3/4", both "flange-to-flange". I know this topic has been covered at a number of 419 MS sessions and have the handout PDF handout provided at the 2011 MS. Can anyone confirm the correct front ride height for this coach/chassis?

Is that pipe the condensation drain for the front AC? If yes, it's missing the "down hose" and could explain the rot and rust?

Checked their website and different than what I remember. Thought it was 3 cents off per gal and cash price if using their credit card. Website shows a flat 8 cents per gallon...same discount. My big deal is turning pump on without going inside. With their credit card, you can just drive away if you don’t want a receipt. Also like the idea that their fuel has to be fresh but same with other major truck stops like Love's and TA. Forgot to mention that the linkage is with Good Sam...

I tried using my Pilot/Flying J RV Plus card yesterday and was not able to activate the pump. The screen stated that I did not have a chip card and ended the authorization. Since it was my toad and the transaction would be small, I used another charge card and got the tank filled. I called Pilot/Flying J this afternoon and asked about needing a chip card and she stated that they are in the process of updating the RV Plus discount software and a chip card will be required when it's complete. She could not tell me when the chip cards will be available so in the interim you must (1) walk into the store (2) have the clerk swipe the card to activate the pump/authorize the fuel discount (3) go back outside to pump the fuel and (4) return to the store to complete the transaction/get a receipt if desired. The fuel discount is nice, but the immediate pump authorization is a huge benefit! So if you've got the card, expect to do some walking around...the stop will be twice as long.Adam2010 Neptune 37PBQ

Have read about updating the system but so much easier to do a "plug 'n play" repair than a total reconfiguration. No problems since so still a happy camper...

Had a charging issue a number of years ago and found a little blurb in my owners manual that looked promising. See picture. Found the small board on the main board in the FRB and it had a fried component. Ordered a replacement board from REV through Veurinks and was told they had lots on the shelf cause they do fail. More homework...

Also have the Progressive Dynamics transfer switch. No hum, no problems with this unit made in the good old USA! And can't believe there are still IOTA's in use...think the recall was about 10 years ago.

I worked for Eaton (and Dana) Axle for 25+ years. Not an engineer but was a purchasing maven so know the materials and design. The housings are large fabricated stampings designed to support the differential gearing/carrier and as mounting points for left and right suspension points. I've seen those axle housings in the straightening machine, they do flex more than you can imagine and take a dimensional "set." In addition to the safety issue with single point jacking, I wouldn't want to take the chance of bending the housing...lever arm with lots of coach weight outboard of center lift point if jacking at the drain plug or carrier housing. Jack at suspension shackles, frame or other balanced outboard point makes sense. Adam 2010 Neptune 37PBQ

Replaced the 2 Carrier units with Dometic 15K Pengiun II's with heat pumps last fall. A new CCC thermostat replaces the 2 Carrier remotes. So far so good! Heat pump, AC and jump over to propane furnaces perfect, have better temp control than the Carriers and the noise level is comparable. Only problem was that the Penguins do not come standard with condensation collection/discharge through the Monaco installed plumbing...surprised when water was running off the roof. They forgot when to order the optional kits...oops! Back to Veurinks in April to get them installed.... Adam 2010 HR Neptune 37PDQ