Flasher for making the changing to LED turn signal lights

[Nosmo179]

I read a long time ago where someone posted about the need to change my Flasher so I could use all LEDs in my Turn/brake lights (1156 bulbs). I ask this because I am currently making the change over. I have on problem, it's an odd one. When I put 1156 LEDs in all three lights per side. My corner light (marker/turn) and the lower side (red) clearance light (turn signal/marker) don't work at all. If I put 1 incandescent 1156 back in these side lights work fine.

So, is this a problem that a alternate Flasher will cure or not? I fear changing my front turn signal bulbs to LEDs and make the problem worse.

So, any info will be fun to read and hopefully fix this issue!

[Ivan K]

With the LED flasher lights you have 2 choices, either install parallel resistors to simulate current of the incandescent bulb or replace the flasher relay for an electronic one, not based on current and provided you find one that would fit the existing socket configuration. Resistors would be my last choice as they get hot and that could pose a problem with plastic light housings. If your red marker light alternates with the corner light, the new flasher still may not make it work but the resistors would. Something to try to know for sure. I just left the rear flashers the way they were originally. All the rest is LED.

[waterskier_1]

I suspect your 96 is wired similar to my 87 Dynasty.  If the lights you are referring to are the ones that flash both with the running (parking) lights on or flash with them off, you simply can not replace those lights with LEDs.  This is because Monaco did something tricky in order to have a single filament bulb flash one when needed and the running light are off, and then be able to use the same bulb flash off, if the running light are on.  The way they did this is by grounding and supplying power different directions through the bulb.  It is convoluted, and if you really want to know what they are doing, you can study the wiring diagram, or ask.  But short of designing your own switching circuit, which will mimic the light bulb in there, and then have an output that will switch the LED, or redesigning the system, it won't work.  I did design a circuit to do that, one is required at each of the four lights (front and rear) that flash this way.  It worked except when the brake lights were also on.  The easy way it to leave those four bulbs as is.  And No, a new flasher won't help this problem.  The new flashers are sometimes required because they use the resistance of standard bulbs as part of the timing circuit (that's why it flashes faster when a bulb is burnt out).  The LEDs don't have anything similar to that resistance, so they will either not flash, or flash extremely fast.  Adding resistance is the key, either as an external stand alone resistor, or a special flasher with that resistance already built in.

  -Rick

[Nosmo179]

Ivan K and Waterskier_1 thank you very much. Great info and fun to read. I'm doing the easy thing for those back side light which are just like the 87 RV. And I'll just leave the one incandescent 1156 bulb per side to get those odd ball lights to work. And Ivan K getting an electric flasher to help is nice to know.

I'll keep all this for future reference.

Take care, be safe and as my wife tells me, be visible (when on the road...)

[dl_racing427]

The way they do this is they use the turn signal filament in the bulb as the ground for the side marker lights.

It's a very simple and common way to get that functionality.

When the turn signal is on and the park lights are off, the side marker flashes with the signal.  When the park lights are on it flashes alternately.

[pwhittle]

I faced this on our 1994 Signature. The solution was to install a bridge rectifier in the wiring for each LEDbulb.

The two inputs can be GND or 12V, when one is GND and the other Is 12V the output -ve will be GND and the output +ve will be 12V

These ones are rated at 2A, which is plenty for a single marker LED.

(Pack of 20 Pieces) Chanzon 2W10 Bridge Rectifier Diode 2A 1000V WOB Single Phase, Full Wave 2 Amp 1000 Volt Electronic Silicon Diodes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KD43YG

Paul

 

[dl_racing427]

That's a great solution to making LED's non-polarity.
Some automotive LED's include that in their design.
You may still need a resistor across the marker to make the park/turn signal work properly though. Not a big deal to add.

I ordered a pack. I'm sure I'll have other uses for them as well.
I'm thinking they could be useful getting the illumination led's in some switches to work when the switch is feeding an active low input.

[Joint Venture]

I replaced all my marker lights with LED version from Amazon . I then replaced all 5" tail and brake lights with tail & brake  lights and these for the 2 turn signal lights. I tried LED bulbs in the OEM fixtures but found them to be a poorly designed light fixture. The new fixtures are 7" diameter and easily mount over the 5" fixture holes. New lights are much better seen, especially in daytimes, at night they can't be missed.

Edited December 20, 2023 by Joint Venture

[Capt. Tango]

Keep in mind that some LEDs are polarity sensitive and will not light if reversed. 

[dl_racing427]

11 hours ago, Capt. Tango said:

Keep in mind that some LEDs are polarity sensitive and will not light if reversed. 

Actually, ALL LED's are polarity sensitive.  Some have additional circuitry built in to make them bi-polar.
That's also the function of the bridge rectifier mentioned above.