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Front brake calipers


Mr Keith

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I would say that you would need to know who made the axle. As far as I know, roadmaster used different readily available axles from producers like Meritor, Dana etc. If you have a build sheet, it might be listed. There should be an ID plate spot welded to the axle somewhere with manufacturer name and identification numbers. Then you can call the manufacturer for part numbers. Also the calipers could have a part number as part of the casting. I got my brake parts from different truck supply stores but they need manufacturers part number. Sorry can't help with that. Worst case, a truck shop might be able to figure it out for you.

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As Ivan said. Its my understanding Roadmaster chassis used standard parts from different truck/ parts manufacture's, best to pull the wheel if  PN or mfg. name is not visible from back side. you never know what a PO did so parts may be different from build.

1 minute ago, PeterSchweizer said:

As Ivan said. Its my understanding Roadmaster chassis used standard parts from different truck/ parts manufacture's, best to pull the wheel if  PN or mfg. name is not visible from back side. you never know what a PO did so parts may be different from build.

you may  just be able remove them and have them rebuilt at a good big Truck shop that rebuilds them. 

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12 hours ago, Mr Keith said:

Thanks for the info I just ordered a torque multiplier so once I get the wheel off I will check for numbers on the axle and caliper.

The torque multiplier by itself may not be enough to get the bolts loos if a happy tire tech used an air wrench to tighten them. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy two sections of pipe to slide over the handles. Here is a photo of how I did it.

318782891_Breakerbarontorquemultiplier2.thumb.jpg.a4e34095c2123767585e45f1074e0e32.jpg

Edited by Bob Nodine
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Thanks for the pictures Bob .   I bought a multiplier about a yr ago but have never used it .  The pictures of how you use the pipe is very informative , I need to get some pipe and keep on board .   I can attest to how tight those lug nuts can be , I busted a 3/4" Harbor Freight break over trying to remove lug nuts .   That was not a big surprise however it did prompt me to get the multiplier .   I found one made of steel at Northern Tool .  I thought steel was important especially with the torque used on our wheels .  I had read of people buying one that was flimsy only to have it fail                                                                                                                             

BTW it takes a pretty big 6 point socket for the nuts , the size escapes me ( CRS ) but it's not likely to be in most peoples tool box .           I bought a deep impact socket

 

 

 

 

Edited by Ray Davis
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Just happen to be checking on bearing preload today. This is what I use to break the lugnuts free. Super easy. Reinstalling them, in my case, I torque it to 120 inch/lbs and that gets me to maybe half turn of a torque wrench to set them to 500 ft/lbs. And it already comes with sockets and adapter for different setups.

IMG_3165.JPG

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5 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

 Ivan , it sure looks good .  Is it a torque multiplier ?  How does it work ?

Ray, yes, torque multiplier, if I remember right it is 1:58 but don't use this ratio for tightening, it was trial and error to find the value for me. You simply set the "leg" against the neighboring nut and turn, easy as that. The short handle is plenty enough to get it loose with one hand. Then a 1/2 inch airgun and done. Works for this aging guy 😀 

IMG_3166.JPG

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21 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Ray, yes, torque multiplier, if I remember right it is 1:58 but don't use this ratio for tightening, it was trial and error to find the value for me. You simply set the "leg" against the neighboring nut and turn, easy as that. The short handle is plenty enough to get it loose with one hand. Then a 1/2 inch airgun and done. Works for this aging guy 😀 

IMG_3166.JPG

Thanks Ivan , seeing that view I recognize that it looks very much like mine , I think , I bought it but haven't looked at it in a long time .   Probably should      check it out I may not need pipe .

Aging guy ? Your picture doesn't show it but believe me it'll happen and way too soon .  😲

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Can't help you there, 500 lbs is impossible to guesstimate and a quarter of turn makes a huge difference, potentially hundreds of pounds. Try to borrow one if you can or get one. I know, they're expensive but I carry one of these, they work too. Still needs a huge breaker bar to set it.

IMG_3169.PNG

IMG_3170.JPG

Edited by Ivan K
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7 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

500lbs😳??  That’s a lot more than what it’s spec’ed for RV’s. 200-250 is the normal range for large motor homes like the larger Monaco’s. Where did you get the spec for 500lbs?  

Yes, lot of force and right from the manual. Wonder what yours says.

IMG_3171.PNG

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Lets see if I weighed 500 pounds and stood on a lever 1 ft long would that be 500 ft lbs ?   I'm not sure, makes me wonder though .

If that is so, then maybe a longer lever and I can make 500 ft lbs with my weight of about 190 plus or minus .  😁  🤥

How about it engineers can this work ?

Edited by Ray Davis
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19 hours ago, Mr Keith said:

Any suggestions on how to tighten the lug nuts when you put a wheel back on without a torque wrench

I use a 4 to 1 torque multiplier and a torque wrench set to 125 foot lbs but I like the gizmo Ivan has posted. Might just have to get one of those.

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19 minutes ago, Bob Nodine said:

I use a 4 to 1 torque multiplier and a torque wrench set to 125 foot lbs but I like the gizmo Ivan has posted. Might just have to get one of those.

There you go , I like your ingenuity, and I like the torque gizmo that Ivan has I might get one too.

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2 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

There you go , I like your ingenuity, and I like the torque gizmo that Ivan has I might get one too.

It works fine, still a good workout just moving the setup from nut to nut so many times. You set the target torque with a button, in this case 500 lbs and it starts beeping at over 400 and a solid beep at the target so I don't need to watch the dial as I am hanging on it... the batteries last about a year in mine.

3 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Lets see if I weighed 500 pounds and stood on a lever 1 ft long would that be 500 ft lbs ?   

Yeah, and you would also need to bump your tire pressure. 😅

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43 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

IYou set the target torque with a button, in this case 500 lbs and it starts beeping at over 400 and a solid beep at the target so I don't need to watch the dial as I am hanging on it... the batteries last about a year in mine.

 That's even better,  I expected I would need the DW to watch the gauge while I was giving it all I have .  Now with the beep I wont need  to bother her .   

 On the other hand she might need to come and listen for the beep for me .   LOL

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I use an old fashion truckers dial up clicker style torque wrench.  I also use a series of wooden blocks to support the extension end of the wrench to keep it parallel to the stud.  That way I can torque the lug nuts without a helper holding up the other end of the torque wrench or having the extension denting or scratching the chrome axle cover.

IMG_20140628_190043249.jpg

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On 11/15/2020 at 8:25 AM, Ray Davis said:

Lets see if I weighed 500 pounds and stood on a lever 1 ft long would that be 500 ft lbs ?   I'm not sure, makes me wonder though .

If that is so, then maybe a longer lever and I can make 500 ft lbs with my weight of about 190 plus or minus .  😁  🤥

How about it engineers can this work ?

That is exactly how it works. 😃

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So I finally took a moment to get down to the Coach and look at the manual. My manual has the exact same page the Ivan posted. Have no idea where I got the misinformation regarding the torque specs but I appreciate you guys setting me straight. Now it looks like I need to research and make a few tool purchases. 
 

thanks guys!

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